Advanced Discussion

I read this a while back, not sure if i posted it or not. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Optimum Speaker Placement An often asked question by consumers on our tech support line is: "What's The Best/Optimum Speaker Placement"to achieve perfect imaging? The attached images show good speaker placement and speaker angle for both door/kick panel and A-pillar installs. Try to get as close as possibly to these speaker placements and speaker angles on your installs and imaging will always be improved/close to perfect. Stock door panels are often more than 30% muffling up clean clear…

I've been having some issues with the voltage in my truck. When i start it it will be around 14.0v-14.5v but after about a minute without playing any music it will drop to about 12.2v and roam between 12v-13v. I dont get any voltage drop when playing music either(maybe .1v-.2v drop but thats normal) if anything it will go back up just a little. Any insight/advice would be greatly appreciated.

I am thinking about buying some off E-bay and they have good feedback and all but is this brand name any good? Havent heard too much as far as quality and who's line of Dynamat/Sound suppressing material to know which to get? All I know is I need something because my car rattles everywhere inside and the trunk is falling apart. Need advice!! The listing on e-bay is {http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5828796442&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1} That seems either kinda cheap or just a good deal! They always have a list of bidders so it might be good but I don't know.50 Sq.Ft for #49.99 + 19.99 to ship. What ya'll think? Thanks

I'm looking into buying a 15" BTL fully loaded. My question is, can I tune my box lower than the recommended fs frequency? If I did, would it affect the sub in a bad way? Poor sound quality? Just wondering if there would be a negative effect on the sub. I think the fs frequency on the 15" BTL is 37.9. I like low frequency hip hop and want to tune my box low like 30 hz (at the lowest 25 hz). Is this not a good idea, what would be the result?

I've been doing a lot of thinking and pondering how to get the sound stage and imaging in my Jimmy even better. The thought of tossing the components for an 8 or 10" midbass and some full rangers in custom pods has crossed my mind many times, along with rebuilding the door installations with something that puts the aiming pointing right where it should and going with an active setup consisting of a 7" midbass and a large format tweeter. The latter brought me to a though as to exactly what constitutes on or off axis. Is on axis just directly aimed, or is there a few degrees of leeway there that can allow a person some wiggle room before it's considered off axis? As it …

I am not running all of these at once, but I have the option of choosing any combination. I am running 2 vifa Vifa BC25SC06-04 and 2 DDC6.5"s I have a sony xm-4045, 4040 and 6020. I have a cache cloc'd, pac SNI-35, pac sni-15 and fierce FILC20V2 I just picked up an american bass ABX-3.1A crossover which I will be using to replace an older optimus 3 way crossover, and I will be using it for the mids and tweeters. I will level match (to my liking, which will leave the tweeters a little brighter than the mids) on the crossover. My question on that is what the output knob does. It doesn't show any db so I'm guessing that with the knob maxed out, it's simple not…

Alright. I've got to get this perfect. I'm LOVING the Bravox CS60K's. The output, mid-bass authority, and overall quality of sound is fantastic. They're truly a great set for the price I paid. The problem I'm running into with them is very common with speakers/components in their price range however and that is either beaming or break-up. Not sure exactly what the difference is just yet, though I do have a pretty good idea, but somewhere in the 4k area it's almost ear piercing on CERTAIN songs. It seems some of the songs have a lot of material in that range 2-5k that just causes them to nearly make your ears bleed, or so it feels. Then other songs couldn't be smoo…

I'm looking for anyone near Sioux Falls with a Term Lab. I won't be going back to Dashboard by Karl's, so I'll need to travel.

I have done my reading but I still do not know enough, I want to learn how to design them and the strengths and weakness of each. I hope to design and build one of these for an RL-i 8

im gonna try it.. i searched and havent seen anyone else try it yet.. THEORETICALLY the QTS is quite low for an IB application.. but you never know til you try it.. so im gonna throw up a quick baffle, a super quick seal, and throw a very low amount of power to it... like 300- 400 watts... just to get a feel of sound.. i decided to try this because i am stuck on how to build an adequate enclosure for my G35 coupe.. im trying to stuff two 12" iCONs in there.. but i want 3.0 a peice... which is next to impossible without building the enclosure into the trunk. if the IB doesnt work, il have no choice but to put the subs into much smaller enclosures(2.2ish) il keep you updat…

okay so a couple weeks ago my first h/o alt that i had singer instal a self excite and extrenal reg. on started being all buggy and sometimes not charging at all when i would turn on my car, well it just finally started getting colder in mn so I kinda wondered if that was the problem, anyway i already had a better alt on the way, a mechman 320 self excite. and when i installed it i was in a friends heated garage, and it fired up right away. Now every morning on my way to work it takes like 5-10 minutes of straight battery power before the alt kicks on. however if I drive home from work, get same problem, but then maybe an hour after car sits when i get home I go out aga…

Hey guyz, I know that different cones have differents advantages and drawbacks: - strength - lightness - ease of use But what I am wondering is what kind of "sound" (metallic, warm, etc...) do those have - subwoofer cones by the way. For example, hemp, kevlar, aluminum, titanium, threated paper, and so on... Thanks Kelvin

i talked to a rep. at DC and he said i need 17inches of port area per cubic foot of airspace. how can i tell the port area of a round port? im going to be building 4, 4" in diameter ports, that will be tuned to 33HZ. the box is going to be 5cubes when its all done. i just dont know if i i will have enough port area to keep the port noise to a minimum. any help?

I am curious, alot of infinity subs and solobarics and such call for a pretty small ported enclosure volume (less than 1.5 cuft for a 10) If a sub has a recommended enclosure volume for a vented box of 1 cuft, what would happen if you put that sub in a 1.75 cuft enclosure?

This isn't exactly a question I have, but here goes. My friend is a big physics geek and on the topic of speakers, he asked why we don't have cooling devices to keep operating temperatures low so resistance is more predictable, and less influential. I Don't really know how to answer him, could some of you throw me some ideas why it isn't a practical idea? My only thoughts on it are practicality regarding a mobile environment and the equipment needed, as well as cost. But why don't filhy rich folks use woofer coolers to take advantage of their amps? I'm interested to see what gets said here It seems cool in theory (no pun intended) Just really impractical.

ok, see if you can follow me, to create a sonic boom an object has to travel 720mph rite? A driver displaces air to make sound rite, so if I had a sub that would displace air at 720mph could I create a sonic boom in my car? Or would it create an ungodly amount of db's? Also, how loud is a sonic boom? Or is speed and sound not relative to pressure? Or would the sub make no sound at all since it would be traveling faster than the speed of sound or would it just be delayed? would the car explode? just trying to keep those good minds working. lol

Hey guys I remember years back, when we wanted to build a "premium" subwoofer enclosure we would use birch plywood rather than particale board. Back in the late 1980s and early 1990s we mostly used particle board, not MDF, at least not at the shops I worked at. I don't know if it was because MDF wasn't widely available, or if it was more expensive, or if we just didn't know about it. So, my question is: What are your thoughts on using birch plywood for a subwooder enclosure? How do you think the enclosure would handle flex and can you comment about its tonal qualities? What brought this question to my mind is that MDF really is not a great material for holding fasteners (…

I am working on my enclosure, and am wondering which way to face the sub. I have 2 options with my limited space, either face the back side of the back seats, or face the rear hatch glass. If I go towards the rear hatch, I cant get much of an angle towards the glass, it would be about 3" below the horizontal line. Sub in question will be a 12" RL-p. MattB

pretty much my truck is telling me no to this system. I installed my box, wired my subs, wired the amp, fired it up... nothing amp comes on, zero output to subs. I do hear a whine through the door speakers if I rev the engine. -installed new RCA's -I have a 1/0 copper wire running to the frame as my ground. and after no sound I grinded the frame down to bare shiny metal. -checked all the fuses. -checked all the wires. -Rechecked all fuses and wires. -moved and jiggled the whole length of RCA -took the remote wire out and jumped a wire from the power to the rem When I turn the volume up on the HU as soon as a hard not comes through, the amp hits the subs once then goes int…

Ok to start this thread off. Please do NOT post information you read from the internet where the original writer could of pulled out there ass. Just don't do it. Facts only here please. No He said she said bullshit. To get started, I was reading and come across some info. No need to get into what it was, but it lead me to really find the truth about wiring. I think there is so much bullshit being passed around as the truth its not funny anymore. WeLl I finally want to inform people of what's really being advertised, and how to draw a conclusion from that. Ok so you have 4 major types of wire talked about in the audio world. OFC Silver Tinned OFC Copper Tinned OFC CCA Bas…

So, I figured this should be in the Advanced topic section because unless i'm the first with XS Wireless batteries, something abnormal is happening here. I've been testing and noticing some odd readings last night but i'll leave that aside for now... The new reading i got today was just flat out impossible- I have 1 12v battery sitting here. IT HAS NOTHING connected to it's positive terminal! Nothing is touching it, ran to it, etc. The ground terminal is paralleled with 11 other batteries. I set meter to Ohms. Probe the Positive terminal to the battery that has nothing on it. The other probe is ran to the Positive terminal to the next closest battery that is paralleled…

I was reading a port area article on here. Port Area - SSA Car Audio Forum Utilizing the recommendations from other in that article and going back and looking at white papers from various manufacturers from the likes of JL, JBL, and Boston Acoustics etc,,, I notice that their port size recommendations are in the 3-4" area. Even on woofs that are known to be seeing 500+ watts. Why? After looking at those enclosure recommendations it is very apparent that the port noise is going to be horrendous let alone compression. Also utilizing the port area calculators in the above listed topic, I noticed that port resonance frequencies drop in frequency the larger the port diamete…

can someone please explain these concepts of on axis and off axis to me.

So does anyone wish to share thier secrets? Only thing i've heard is use iron rod instead of wood for bracing.

Ok so I have basic knowledge of rear/front waves and all that mess. My basic question is this: I have a subwoofer enclosure with the port firing to the side and the sub firing upward. Theoretically, which way should I "point" the port to get the loudest result? I can fire it in four different ways You can look at this vid to get a good idea of how much room it has etc. So to get the least amount of canceling or whatever, what do y'all think? I will probably test all four different ways on the TL, but I am just wondering what your theories are... Thanks! PS - pic is as though you were looking down on the car. The red square is the TL mic.