Advanced Discussion

First, I'm going to go through and list the equipment I have then example and ask the questions. Ride- 01 Ford F-250 CrewCab Headunit-Kenwood X789 Sub Amp-ZX1500 Sub-12" Fi Q Box- 2.3cuft Net with two 4" Aeros tuned to ~30hz Ok, so I bought the amp off Craigslist for $50, and only thing it needed was sent off for warranty repair. And had the original receipt, so I got a basically refurb ZX1500 for $65($15 to ship). So when I got it back from Kicker, I wanted to test it, so I through my box in the back seat. The sub was wired in series, so 2.8ohms. Played it for a good little while, the sub showed no sign of stress, and was quiet loud. Not 150dB, but you get the picture. S…

Does anyone know the factory raido wire color codes for a Lincoln navigator 2006 with navigation...

Hey guys, I am having the following issue with my amp: The protection light comes on as soon as it powers up and it stays on. If I leave the amp on for a minute or so I can feel it getting really hot on the corner where the fuses are located on the bottom. The side of the amp is where it is getting hot and it looks like maybe a transistor over there (you can see if by looking in past the fuses). I have a Kicker amp that works just fine using the same power, ground, and remote wires. Memphis quoted $175 to fix it. I think it could be an easy fix if its just a bad transistor. I know how to solder and I've taken an amp out of its heatsink before to work on it but ended u…

Howdy all. I've got a little time on my hands and have a couple of widgets at my disposal. I'm running Stevens Audio Full Body horns in my ride and have a few compression drivers to try out. The compression drivers I've collected so far are the Stevens Audio Pro Drive, Dayton Audio D250P-8, and the DIY Sound Group DNA-360. I've head them here and there, but not long enough to decide which are the best for me. I've got one of those Dayton Audio DATS thingies, so I decided to test out my compression drivers and see what the impedance curve looks like with and without the horn body. I figure I'd share them and spur some discussion on how important the impedance curve is rega…

I read this a while back, not sure if i posted it or not. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Optimum Speaker Placement An often asked question by consumers on our tech support line is: "What's The Best/Optimum Speaker Placement"to achieve perfect imaging? The attached images show good speaker placement and speaker angle for both door/kick panel and A-pillar installs. Try to get as close as possibly to these speaker placements and speaker angles on your installs and imaging will always be improved/close to perfect. Stock door panels are often more than 30% muffling up clean clear…

Ok, I have an s10 ext cab with a Fi Q10, run off a sundown sae-1000D put in a .6ft^3 sealed box. The box is down firing in the back of the cab right in the middle. First off, why does it get soooo much louder when the doors are opened? and second, how do I deal with this? I have been planning on building a ported box but before I go ahead and spend the time on another box, I would like to know if there is anything I can do to overcome the downfalls of a truck cab. Any takers? Thanks in advance, Mike B.

I've never really tried my hand at making a great sounding front stage, I usually buy a set of components and throw an amp at them. This time around I would really like to understand what makes up a great front stage and why. what about cone size, do you start with choosing a tweeter and then work your way down to the mid woofer? Help me better understand the things I don't know.

I am going to be moving from my current 2 way passive system(JL ZR650s) to a 3 way active system. I originally planned to go full Beyma mids and highs, but ever since my ZR woofers broke in, I have fallen in love with their sound and I have decided to keep them as my mid range and add the ZR800s as my mid bass drivers; I also will be using the Beyma AST09 3 inch super tweeter. I have a 08 Tahoe. My current setup has the woofer in the stock location and the tweeter in the stock A pillar location. I plan to build an enclosure in my center console for my 8's(one firing to both the driver and passenger side/not in between the seats) and glass my doors to fit the tweeter, but…

someone should do this with a voice coil and make the sub-woofer super efficient!!!

Hello i have a question for you tech guys. my truck peaks at 48 hertz and my wall is tuned to 38 hertz. do i need to retune my wall to 48 hertz to match the trucks resonance for cabin gain to take effect? im currently doing 154.3 and i want to break the 155 mark. been reading for hous on multiple forums and read different things and just getting confused. can some one please help.

I found this pretty relevant and interesting audiopulse`s site... enjoy SUBWOOFER MYTHS # 1 Subwoofers have an RMS rating Speakers actually have a very complex thermal compression relationship and certainly can not be quantified by just one or two numbers typically called RMS and Program or Peak. Because voice coils in traditional drivers are inherently resistors, any amount of voltage generates some amount of heat which then adversely changes the resistance and properties of the speaker. This is the principle of thermal compression: As the voice coil heats up, the resistance changes and the efficiency and performance of the driver decrease until the point of maxim…

OK SO IM TRYING TO FIND THE BEST WAY TO GET THE POWER AND QUALITY WITH OUT GETING A DIVORCE.! LOL IVE GOT ROOF MOUNT, DOOR MOUNT, DASH MOUNT, REAR DECK LID AND I HAVE A SPACE BEHIND THE REAR PASSANGER SIDE WINDOW WERE ID LIKE TO PUT THE ROCKFORD FOSGATE PUNCH PRO 6" 4 OR 8 OHM MIDRANGE. IM REALLY NEEDING A GOOD AMOUNT OF HELP IV DONE THE FIBERGLASS MYSELF AND IM VERY INTERESTED IN COMPLEATING MY PROJECT. THE HELP I REQUIRE IS SUCH: 1. I NEED TO KNOW THE BEST SPEAKER TO CHOOSE FROM EITHER THE PUNCH PRO 6" 4 OR 8 OHM MIDRANGE , BOTH HAVE THE SAME MOUNTS BUT IM OPEN TO SUGGESTIONS OF OTHER BRANDS BUT DEPTH MAY NOT EXCEED 2.26" 2. I NEED TO KNOW THE BEST AMP OR AMPS TO DO THI…

I had some kick panels made for my car a few months ago to house my 8" midbass. I had some issues fitting them into the door so I went this route. Even with only a 3/4" spacer, the door panel would not fit back on. Anyhow, the kicks look great, but I think are a bit too small, causing a peak in certain frequency bands. This problem is most noticable with male vocals. I tried filling the kick panels with polyfill...it helped a bit...but did not totally fix the problem. Other than that the system sounds awesome. Staging is fairly high and centered in the driver seat. So I'm opted to try once again to put the midbass back into the doors, and the 3" dome midranges back into …

I drive a reg cab truck. After hearing a friends Xterra and the relativly good imagining and sound stage I have decided to re work my set up. I will be keeping the CDT HD set, I am still very happy with them. Now, I need some Ideas for staging. Kicks are out of the question unfortunatly, atleast for now. I have been reading many, man sites about the topics of phase, Imaging, and sound stage. Most have stated the obvious of rear fill cancellation(doenst apply to me), phasing expecally in the upper freq. ranges, and the best locations for your sound stage. This has led me to think that If I could angle my comp set more that the sound would be better. I see the glassed …

I was reading a port area article on here. Port Area - SSA Car Audio Forum Utilizing the recommendations from other in that article and going back and looking at white papers from various manufacturers from the likes of JL, JBL, and Boston Acoustics etc,,, I notice that their port size recommendations are in the 3-4" area. Even on woofs that are known to be seeing 500+ watts. Why? After looking at those enclosure recommendations it is very apparent that the port noise is going to be horrendous let alone compression. Also utilizing the port area calculators in the above listed topic, I noticed that port resonance frequencies drop in frequency the larger the port diamete…

I am thinking about buying some off E-bay and they have good feedback and all but is this brand name any good? Havent heard too much as far as quality and who's line of Dynamat/Sound suppressing material to know which to get? All I know is I need something because my car rattles everywhere inside and the trunk is falling apart. Need advice!! The listing on e-bay is {http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5828796442&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1} That seems either kinda cheap or just a good deal! They always have a list of bidders so it might be good but I don't know.50 Sq.Ft for #49.99 + 19.99 to ship. What ya'll think? Thanks

im gonna try it.. i searched and havent seen anyone else try it yet.. THEORETICALLY the QTS is quite low for an IB application.. but you never know til you try it.. so im gonna throw up a quick baffle, a super quick seal, and throw a very low amount of power to it... like 300- 400 watts... just to get a feel of sound.. i decided to try this because i am stuck on how to build an adequate enclosure for my G35 coupe.. im trying to stuff two 12" iCONs in there.. but i want 3.0 a peice... which is next to impossible without building the enclosure into the trunk. if the IB doesnt work, il have no choice but to put the subs into much smaller enclosures(2.2ish) il keep you updat…

Active 2-way with Full Range driver for the top end? This is not meant to be a pick my driver for me topic. My new dilemma is because of Adrian, he put the full range bug in my ear and I am starting to question my plans. I am not as versed in full range drivers as many others are on this board, so why not use the knowledge base. Setting: car - Mazda Protege5 wagon original front stage plans - Bravox CF603CF's power - many to choose from, so not an issue mounting location - FR's or mid/tweet would have to be at the base of the A-pillars (small manual car with no real room in the foot wells) Now where I am questioning my plans is that I have not had a passive set up in y…

Well as it sits my subs were wired in series at the sub, then parallel at the amps which were strapped together. Putting each amp at .5ohm Apparently, if I wire the subs to be parallel at the sub then wire each sub to it's own amp with each amp still at .5ohm. It will increase coil efficiency. When wired in series you get double the amperage but half the voltage. Causing heat to build up and efficiency to be lost. In parallel it does the opposite, you get half the amperage but double the voltage. So you still get the same amount of power, it' s just with a higher voltage causing less heat build up and higher efficiency. Which is where the gain comes from Which makes sense…

would someone like to try to explain the effects that I am starting to notice with the serious increase in humidity and temperature? I have a faint Idea, but I was curious to hear from more experienced SPL'ers

Hi guys, my sub amp (Soundstream 2000 monobock) is acting weird. You will hear the subs pop out and then the amp goes into protect. Any time of day, any volume level, music/no music. It's totally random. Just wondering if any of you would have any ideas. I have 165A alternator (stock), 1/0Ga wire to amp. The batt meter on the car stays at 14 volts. The gain on the amp is all the way down. No bass boost. It also seems random when the amp resets itself so I can begin to use it again. Let me know if you need any more info. I'm also wondering if my subs could be the problem. They are dual 3 ohm wired in series to 6 ohm per speaker input (there are 2 on amp). The speakers wire…

I thought I’d share this here. The writer goes through great length to explain the why’s and how’s of time alignment in a stereo system. He explains comb filtering, phase issues and alignment, crossover settings and so forth. Plus he does it in a manner that pretty much anyone with just a little bit of background or experience on the subject can understand. http://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/time-alignment-part-one/ http://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/time-alignment-part-2/ http://www.audiofrog.com/community/tech-tips/time-alignment-part-three-delays-and-crossovers-for-tweeters-and-mids/ http://www.audiofrog.com/community/tec…

I need subwoofer box building software......I wanna start designs for my 2 15's NOW!!!1 Anyone got any help?? FREE is really helpful!!!! J

I've been having some issues with the voltage in my truck. When i start it it will be around 14.0v-14.5v but after about a minute without playing any music it will drop to about 12.2v and roam between 12v-13v. I dont get any voltage drop when playing music either(maybe .1v-.2v drop but thats normal) if anything it will go back up just a little. Any insight/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hey, I was wondering how you would go about hooking up two different alternators? I have a 180 amp alternator installed on my car right now, and I was wondering if it would be possible to hook up my stock alternator also. I'm trying to do this because I have a 2500D and I have read it sucks a lot of juice. I'm guessing I would need some kind of regulator, just trying to make it where my 180 would be for my audio. Then the 80 amp would be solely for my car's electronics. Any kind of past experiences or info would be awesome. Thanks Taylor