Advanced Discussion

I've been looking around at some different subs, trying to decide what I want to do for a summer project. I want to do my own work, i.e., build my own box, replace door speakers, etc. I've been looking at subs on Parts Express, like Dayton and Tang Band. I've been all over their websites, but can't find any recommendations for box sizes or types (ported, sealed, etc). So, my two questions are: 1) How do you calculate box size requirements using the specs that are provided? 2) How can you tell what type of enclosure a sub will work best in? I'm specifically interested in very small applications, as I'd like to try and run multiple subs (three or more) and try to retain s…

I despise "Which brand/driver" type threads but unfortunately, in helping my son, I am hitting just that. 2004 Pontiac Grand Am. Waiting on HO alternator. 3 Die Hard Platinum batteries. 2 runs of 1/0 positive 1 run 2/0 as a negative connected to frame in 3 spots System layout: 2 ea. JBL GTO14001 amplifiers each driving a DD9012 sub in a ported enclosure. Each sub in it's own chamber each sub wired to achieve a 4 ohms DCR at the amp. JBL GTO1004 4 channel amp 100X4 Image dynamics wave guides acoustic open cell foam inserted in the throat to cut down on some of the screechiness. Really helped! Crossfire compression drivers and the crossfire passive/frequency shaping cr…

i have a 1997 mercury mountaineer (ford explorer). does anyone know what the resonant frequency is of my truck. when i find the resonant frequency what will that acomplish? do i need to catch my 1/4 wave at the dash at the frequency? im not quite catching this theory.thanks for any and all help

I went ahead and designed some retrofits for a pair of Bazooka wakeboard tower speakers. The crossover took some time but came out decent in the end...

which do you guys prefer, facing the driver seat facing the roof facing the rear or lifted and downward pointing...

I have a Soundstream Rubicon RUB1.2500D, and would like to either remove/disable the SSF circuit, or modify the SSF pot so that I can simply turn it off that way. I haven't looked at the resistance of the SSF pot yet, but could I change it out with a different value of pot to make it so that it is disabled at its lowest setting, instead of the standard 10-40 hertz? I have some experience in repairing and modifying amps, and power supplies and such, but I never have encountered something like this, yet.

ok..i've used the caluclators and figured out what the values are..but i have no idea on what to buy to achieve those values.. what i'm building.. a third order 18db octave @ 4ohm low pass passive x-over. the values for which are.. 7.9mH coil 441uF capacitor 2.65mH coil so, what do i need to achieve these values (other then the obvious..duh) i went to PE, and listed some stuff, but evidently it's incorrect. yeah, i'm being a touch lazy, but i need somone to list the part numbers and where they got them. i'd also like an explaination as to how they achieved those values (not the ones above, i'm still reading the12volt.com on that) but how they achieved getting the values i…

hey whats up, I am learning about enclosure design and tuning and was wondering about two terms "imp rise" and "unloading". I breezed through a thread on imp rise and got some very good information. Its the unloading part that im not to clear on. I have a 15" Fi BL Loaded and think that I have damaged it due to unloading (I think). My question is how does it affect the subwoofer, what kind of damage can this do, can a recone kit fix the sub if broken due to unloading. I was having problems where my sub would cut out then cut back in for some reason as I was playing low frequencies. The amp was not clipping or going into protect as I could see all the LED's while this…

Okay so the other day i noticed my system was not playing the same. It seems to be playing at half of its potential! So i waited and didn't listen to it for one day.. didn't even drive the truck. I just now took it for a ride and its true... something is wrong! I pulled into an empty parking lot and played it at full tilt with the truck running in park, i was steady at 14v.. MY system is not suppose to be steady at 14v, i hit 151.8 dBs parked and the voltage dropped to low mid 12s and it was at the same volume as it was when i hit 151.8 It seems like the subs are only getting a couple thousand watts of power. No i am not getting use to it.. I checked all 0gauge connect…

So Im tryin to come up with a design for my 18's and im stuck.. I can either have 122.5 inches of port at 5.5 cubes at 34hz or 70inches of port at 7.4 cubes at 28hz im leaning towards the 1st one or i can have even more space and just use aero ports thoughts?

Okay, so i think i fucked something up in my 86 GMC S-15 that deals with electrical, go figure right.. Everything was working perfectly, then.. i connected my (2) D3100 XS Power batts with (2) runs of 0AWG wire (pos n neg) and something (idk what) happened and this is the results... I started my truck (got low voltage) and my Head Unit didn't turn on, along with amps. I put a test light on my 15amp Radio fuse in my fuse box by my kick panel and no power, so i pulled it and it wasn't blown but i replaced it anyway. Then put a test light on it and still no power. I pulled my Head Unit to check the factory 10amp fuse and i got the same issue, no power but not blown. On my f…

I am going to be moving from my current 2 way passive system(JL ZR650s) to a 3 way active system. I originally planned to go full Beyma mids and highs, but ever since my ZR woofers broke in, I have fallen in love with their sound and I have decided to keep them as my mid range and add the ZR800s as my mid bass drivers; I also will be using the Beyma AST09 3 inch super tweeter. I have a 08 Tahoe. My current setup has the woofer in the stock location and the tweeter in the stock A pillar location. I plan to build an enclosure in my center console for my 8's(one firing to both the driver and passenger side/not in between the seats) and glass my doors to fit the tweeter, but…

I'm going to be starting a 4th order blow through my rear deck soon and had a few questions. One being when I port through my rear deck would it be best to fallow to window angle to port straight up into it?

I usually don't do this, and I hate to give this idiot more views but this was just to good. http://youtu.be/O2hraSZ55cE This is the first I've heard of this, and I didn't know you could see wiring move when current passes through it. I guess you learn something new everyday. This guy blocked me a while back for informing his XS Power batteries wasn't 6+ years old, as he stated.(Even though I don't know why he was making that excuse to begin with) so I can't comment to find out more on this wonderful knowledge he's giving out.

Both 12V batteries. but is mixing them going to cause a conflict at all?

I was just thinking of this the other day and my general knowledge of physics dosnt lead me anywhere. Extreme DB levels seem to be in the mid 170's and slowly getting a little bit higher. Would it be phyically or humanly possible to make a subwoofer that moves air fast enough to create a sonic boom? It just moves faster and faster until the air it is displacing breaks the sound barrier! In which case I think that would be able to be higher than 170's, though im still not sure. What do you guys know about something like this? Im sure there is some sort of law of physics that would completely disregard this theory.

Alright all you smart folk, here's what I am wanting: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=180-960 I want to be able to run that directly off of my car's electrical system. You can see from the description that it runs off of 6VDC from the included power supply. So, what would be needed is a power supply to convert the 12VDC from my electrical system to 6VDC. I've also had something about Zener Diodes mentioned to me....but I'm not really sure what those are all about. Anybody want to give me a quick run down of the best way to go, and how each is accomplished (i.e. what a simple yet effective PS design would consist of, what Zener diodes do and if they …

Now I know this has a lot to do with individual preference so this will be very subjective. I was thinking today about where cassette tapes rank as far as audio mediums. I have never seen a real list broken down anywhere, just someone saying "Vinyl is better than CD's" or something of that nature. Let me know if I forgot anything, but this is what I could remember off of the top of my head (not in order obviously). How would most "audiophiles" arrange these from best sounding to worst? DVD-A/SACD (possibly separate?) Cassette Tape Vinyl Digital Storage (Flash/Hard Drive) 8-Track Reel Tape CD

What exactly is the F3 of a speaker, and what should that number be relative to a ported box's tuning frequency, if at all? -C

Hi Guyz, Not sure if I'm in the right section... Firstly, please don't flame me on this one... Just trying new things. Let's say I will use a Maxxbass 103 processor that adds upper harmonics to the sound, making a component sounds like it is playing deeper due to the psychoacoustical effect. I have also read that it actually decreases (on some frequencies) the Xmax by 4. The component I'd like to use in that example is the RL-i8 Here is my question: Due to having the Xmax decreased, will that mean the component can handle more power 1/ for not reaching maximum excursion with the power applied 2/ for having a dual voice coil instead of one - that might sound stupid…

I am looking for some rough plans on how to make a ported pacman box for 4 15" subs. Anyone with any links or resources would be great.

Ok I was wondering what is the typical impeadence rise of voice coils? this is why I ask. I have a TC sounds 3000 15 dvc 2 in a 3ft^3 sealed enclosure. I currently am running it in series to get a 4 ohm load on my Phoenix Gold Tantrum 1200.1, This amp is 2 ohm stable. now I have read that at rest most coils are under their rating (please correct me if I am wrong) so does this mean when power is put to them that thay rise to their stated ohm? maybe totally dependent on manufacture? enclosure size? sealed? vented? my main question is is there a better way I should be wiring my sub to my amp? (or is this the best way) if I wired in parallel would I get a 1 ohm load or …

Hi guyz... Happy New Year, all the best, keep safe and healthy. On to the topic. I would like to know if an amp @ 4 ohm pushing 600 watts will draw the same (amperage) as opposed to the same amp pushing 600 watts but at @ 2 ohm (hope that is english lol) Not sure if it has been answered before. Thanks for the help. Kelvin

Ok, I have an s10 ext cab with a Fi Q10, run off a sundown sae-1000D put in a .6ft^3 sealed box. The box is down firing in the back of the cab right in the middle. First off, why does it get soooo much louder when the doors are opened? and second, how do I deal with this? I have been planning on building a ported box but before I go ahead and spend the time on another box, I would like to know if there is anything I can do to overcome the downfalls of a truck cab. Any takers? Thanks in advance, Mike B.

I've been toying with the idea of using a horn in a spl application (one note wonder, as efficient as possible) for a few weeks now.. Instead of a regular wall, with the woofers and port on the wall, me and a friend had the idea of using a horn, with the opening as the whole front of the wall. It would be a front loaded horn, exponential, loaded with some sort of efficient pro-audio woofer, not the "horns" that have popped up in the car audio scene. Apart from the difficulty of fitting a horn (around 22ft long for the woofer I'm thinking about, should be shorter for a very narrow bandwidth), any problem with using it in such a small space ? Or any sort of other problem…