Advanced Discussion

I am going to be moving from my current 2 way passive system(JL ZR650s) to a 3 way active system. I originally planned to go full Beyma mids and highs, but ever since my ZR woofers broke in, I have fallen in love with their sound and I have decided to keep them as my mid range and add the ZR800s as my mid bass drivers; I also will be using the Beyma AST09 3 inch super tweeter. I have a 08 Tahoe. My current setup has the woofer in the stock location and the tweeter in the stock A pillar location. I plan to build an enclosure in my center console for my 8's(one firing to both the driver and passenger side/not in between the seats) and glass my doors to fit the tweeter, but…

I have a pair of 8 ohm MJ18s. I am designing a Zobel for them at the moment and cannot find the published Le of these anywhere. I also don't have access to my Suncor LCR meter at the moment.... Does anyone know off-hand what it is?

I cant seem to find a straight answer on this. Im wanting to know if i can/should mount 2 yellow tops on their "backs" stacked on top of each other. Anyone have experience with this?

Hey guys this is going to be a long question lol i am tearing everything out of my truck and starting over even though everything is mostly out. so where do i start i have a 01 GMC sierra single cab dropped on 20s will upgrade to 24s lol and i am looking at putting in two 10s for now possibly DC or FI audio depends the mounting depth on them are around 6 inches i believe ether Level 2 or 3 DC subs the 10s depending on price and the SSD FI 10s what do you guys think? so it should fit i will build a custom box sealed possibly ported if anyone can give me some ideas it would be great i am looking for any feed back. so that gets to the wiring.... Big 3 upgrade or extra batt…

My HU it a JVC AVX830. I have the option to change the q on my lows and mids in the eq. Now I've noticed when I change the q to a lower setting the speakers seem to play "louder". What does this do? Is this based off the qts of the driver? How should it be adjusted. Right now I can't seem to get the tuning right. It either sounds hollow and muffled or the highs drown out the words. Could someone enlighten me?

First, I'm going to go through and list the equipment I have then example and ask the questions. Ride- 01 Ford F-250 CrewCab Headunit-Kenwood X789 Sub Amp-ZX1500 Sub-12" Fi Q Box- 2.3cuft Net with two 4" Aeros tuned to ~30hz Ok, so I bought the amp off Craigslist for $50, and only thing it needed was sent off for warranty repair. And had the original receipt, so I got a basically refurb ZX1500 for $65($15 to ship). So when I got it back from Kicker, I wanted to test it, so I through my box in the back seat. The sub was wired in series, so 2.8ohms. Played it for a good little while, the sub showed no sign of stress, and was quiet loud. Not 150dB, but you get the picture. S…

I usually don't do this, and I hate to give this idiot more views but this was just to good. http://youtu.be/O2hraSZ55cE This is the first I've heard of this, and I didn't know you could see wiring move when current passes through it. I guess you learn something new everyday. This guy blocked me a while back for informing his XS Power batteries wasn't 6+ years old, as he stated.(Even though I don't know why he was making that excuse to begin with) so I can't comment to find out more on this wonderful knowledge he's giving out.

I was wondering if the box would sound better ported facing towards the cabin ,up against the back seats or closer towards the trunk opening ? And would it make a difference to completely seal off the trunk ?

http://ampguts.com/forum/atomic-36/atomic-5000-1d-1901/ Same board as a couple other amps, RD, Cactus blew a fet or 2 or 3 lol. Got all the screws out and cant pull this board out, its like wedged in or something. and the heatsinks look like they have to be bent up, but if i bend them up not sure if they are going to be able to bend back down.

I've been looking around at some different subs, trying to decide what I want to do for a summer project. I want to do my own work, i.e., build my own box, replace door speakers, etc. I've been looking at subs on Parts Express, like Dayton and Tang Band. I've been all over their websites, but can't find any recommendations for box sizes or types (ported, sealed, etc). So, my two questions are: 1) How do you calculate box size requirements using the specs that are provided? 2) How can you tell what type of enclosure a sub will work best in? I'm specifically interested in very small applications, as I'd like to try and run multiple subs (three or more) and try to retain s…

So Ive been looking at numbers, maybe im way off. its .078ohms/1000ft ohms/1ft ------------ 12v 14v------------ 12v Amps--- 14v Amps 1-/0 0.00078 ------------ 12v 14v------------ 15384.61538--- 17948.71795------------ 205.1282051 205A is at 75ft which is close to 250likemost charts say with the 1ft values are high as hell though. This looks more reasonable. 1/-0 ------------ Ohms ------------ ------------ Amps 350A ------------ 12-- 14 ------------ ------------ 12-- 14 50ft ------------ 0.034285714---- 0.04 ------------ 350-- 350 25ft ------------ 0.017142857---- 0.02 ------------ 700-- 700 12.5f…

I am trying to fit this 10" under my seat in my 08 silverado ext cab, But this seems like an impossible task because its so much bigger than most 10s, i havent read or seen anyone do anything about this and im wondering if i even can and if anyones done it short of taking out a seat?

Alright, I've been trying to figure this out since I finished the new install. The Q's and Sundown amps sound amazing, they really do. I've never had anything that sounds like they do, so deep, so accurate and SO forceful, they're really quite amazing. However, I noticed a strange phenomenon right after installation that I kind of chocked up to the fact they were still very tight. After several months of playing it got worse instead of better, and at the car show last November I discovered something interesting about the phenomenon and have been studying and working on the how and why of it since. Problem is, I can't find any good information on it. So at this point…

I might mess around with this sometime this week. +.6 v would do me good The second link is for float voltage, no need for it, but hooking it up to a switch wouldn't be bad. for a shtf moment while driving. http://www.smartgaug...uk/alt_mod.html http://www.smartgaug.../alt_float.html ---------------------------------------

I'm looking for anyone near Sioux Falls with a Term Lab. I won't be going back to Dashboard by Karl's, so I'll need to travel.

Ok to start this thread off. Please do NOT post information you read from the internet where the original writer could of pulled out there ass. Just don't do it. Facts only here please. No He said she said bullshit. To get started, I was reading and come across some info. No need to get into what it was, but it lead me to really find the truth about wiring. I think there is so much bullshit being passed around as the truth its not funny anymore. WeLl I finally want to inform people of what's really being advertised, and how to draw a conclusion from that. Ok so you have 4 major types of wire talked about in the audio world. OFC Silver Tinned OFC Copper Tinned OFC CCA Bas…

I'm curious on what type of aluminum people use for bus bars and such? I will be making some to fit my post batteries because I can't find any terminals I like. Plus making my own will cost less, because I need four.

Ok so i have two motors that need reconed,i had Rusty(DC) do one for me and the coil rubbed. How do i get the measurements i need for the right coil? I do not have either coil that originally were in either sub,i do have a set of digital calipers. So what do i measure to get the correct coil? Thanks.

please people, i am working on an assignment that require that i compare two amplifiers( Velleman K4004 amplifier vs Amplimo A120amplifier) the task is to determine between the two amplifiers the one with better SOUND OUTPUT.i hav the following equipments to work with, true RMS multimeter,oscilloscope,function generator,variable resistor,the two model of amplifiers mentioned above i have chosen the following specs from a range of online research i have conducted as a means of determining which is better btw the two 1. gain 2. frequency 3. linearity 4. noise 5. bandwidth 6. output dynamic range 7. input and out impedance 8. damping factor please my problem now is how to us…

I have a Soundstream Rubicon RUB1.2500D, and would like to either remove/disable the SSF circuit, or modify the SSF pot so that I can simply turn it off that way. I haven't looked at the resistance of the SSF pot yet, but could I change it out with a different value of pot to make it so that it is disabled at its lowest setting, instead of the standard 10-40 hertz? I have some experience in repairing and modifying amps, and power supplies and such, but I never have encountered something like this, yet.

Active 2-way with Full Range driver for the top end? This is not meant to be a pick my driver for me topic. My new dilemma is because of Adrian, he put the full range bug in my ear and I am starting to question my plans. I am not as versed in full range drivers as many others are on this board, so why not use the knowledge base. Setting: car - Mazda Protege5 wagon original front stage plans - Bravox CF603CF's power - many to choose from, so not an issue mounting location - FR's or mid/tweet would have to be at the base of the A-pillars (small manual car with no real room in the foot wells) Now where I am questioning my plans is that I have not had a passive set up in y…

It's kicking my ass. Who will help me understand it better?

Hi guys, my sub amp (Soundstream 2000 monobock) is acting weird. You will hear the subs pop out and then the amp goes into protect. Any time of day, any volume level, music/no music. It's totally random. Just wondering if any of you would have any ideas. I have 165A alternator (stock), 1/0Ga wire to amp. The batt meter on the car stays at 14 volts. The gain on the amp is all the way down. No bass boost. It also seems random when the amp resets itself so I can begin to use it again. Let me know if you need any more info. I'm also wondering if my subs could be the problem. They are dual 3 ohm wired in series to 6 ohm per speaker input (there are 2 on amp). The speakers wire…

hey i have a problem that i cannot figure out my btl will run loud like it should but sometimes in mid beat it's like some one turned the dimmer switch down half way ?? i checked my preouts they range from .5 to 4.6 when bumping hard but as var as voltage being put out to the sub at full tilt it's only registering 20-26 at the most i an running a btl 12" duel 2 ohm wired to 1 ohm on a saz 2000d now should the volts match to somewheres around 44v at full tilt or i'm i doing somthing wrong while mesuring the volts for the out put i put the positive on the red and negative on the black for the speaker outputs right? could i be a loose conection in the box causing one voice…

Okay so the other day i noticed my system was not playing the same. It seems to be playing at half of its potential! So i waited and didn't listen to it for one day.. didn't even drive the truck. I just now took it for a ride and its true... something is wrong! I pulled into an empty parking lot and played it at full tilt with the truck running in park, i was steady at 14v.. MY system is not suppose to be steady at 14v, i hit 151.8 dBs parked and the voltage dropped to low mid 12s and it was at the same volume as it was when i hit 151.8 It seems like the subs are only getting a couple thousand watts of power. No i am not getting use to it.. I checked all 0gauge connect…