Advanced Discussion

I need to build a new test enclosure and in the process prefer to use a removable baffle. In the past I have used something like this: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...products_id=768 I am also curious if anyone has any specific implementation recommendations on bolt spacing, overlap of the gasket, better gasket materials, and so on.

Okay so the other day i noticed my system was not playing the same. It seems to be playing at half of its potential! So i waited and didn't listen to it for one day.. didn't even drive the truck. I just now took it for a ride and its true... something is wrong! I pulled into an empty parking lot and played it at full tilt with the truck running in park, i was steady at 14v.. MY system is not suppose to be steady at 14v, i hit 151.8 dBs parked and the voltage dropped to low mid 12s and it was at the same volume as it was when i hit 151.8 It seems like the subs are only getting a couple thousand watts of power. No i am not getting use to it.. I checked all 0gauge connect…

Not sure which Batts to do for my setup. planned on replacing the stock Batt. and then adding a second one in the rear. - Amps, Crescendo symphony 1500 & symphony 800.1 - Sub, 1 18" xcon - RF 360.3 - 2014 Jeep Grand cherokee

Well here are my two new babys i cant wait to get my alternator and battery to get this things up and running also my amp. I am having trouble with the box though i have been told my box is too big or my port is too small and ned help getting it done correctly. here are some plans i had with the box and the subs and some pics of the beasts. If anyone can give me some ideas for the box i would really appreciate it.

http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/06/070603225026.htm we can we expect to see these in amplifiers? and how much more efficient would they be if 30% or more of the heat was turned into electricity? what about lining sub boxes with piezoelectric crystals to make electiricity from the sound subwoofers produce. and have that electricity go back to the amplifier/capacitor.

Alright, I've been trying to figure this out since I finished the new install. The Q's and Sundown amps sound amazing, they really do. I've never had anything that sounds like they do, so deep, so accurate and SO forceful, they're really quite amazing. However, I noticed a strange phenomenon right after installation that I kind of chocked up to the fact they were still very tight. After several months of playing it got worse instead of better, and at the car show last November I discovered something interesting about the phenomenon and have been studying and working on the how and why of it since. Problem is, I can't find any good information on it. So at this point…

Brad and Sean, I imagine you guys will be the most help here but I'm looking for anyone's input with insight here. I have noticed a bit of an acoustic phenomenon in both my vehicles that I'm sure exists in others but I'd love to figure out how to adapt or harness it to be put to real use. I'm also looking for the exact reason the acoustics work this way. In my Jimmy, for example, I have the doors deadened with CLD and CCF (MLV is in the works) and the Bravox components are mounted in good heavy MDF baffles. They sound great with good strong midbass and can even extend fairly low for their small size and low HU power. My only complaint is that they're a bit "forward" o…

http://ampguts.com/forum/atomic-36/atomic-5000-1d-1901/ Same board as a couple other amps, RD, Cactus blew a fet or 2 or 3 lol. Got all the screws out and cant pull this board out, its like wedged in or something. and the heatsinks look like they have to be bent up, but if i bend them up not sure if they are going to be able to bend back down.

I despise "Which brand/driver" type threads but unfortunately, in helping my son, I am hitting just that. 2004 Pontiac Grand Am. Waiting on HO alternator. 3 Die Hard Platinum batteries. 2 runs of 1/0 positive 1 run 2/0 as a negative connected to frame in 3 spots System layout: 2 ea. JBL GTO14001 amplifiers each driving a DD9012 sub in a ported enclosure. Each sub in it's own chamber each sub wired to achieve a 4 ohms DCR at the amp. JBL GTO1004 4 channel amp 100X4 Image dynamics wave guides acoustic open cell foam inserted in the throat to cut down on some of the screechiness. Really helped! Crossfire compression drivers and the crossfire passive/frequency shaping cr…

Okay, so i think i fucked something up in my 86 GMC S-15 that deals with electrical, go figure right.. Everything was working perfectly, then.. i connected my (2) D3100 XS Power batts with (2) runs of 0AWG wire (pos n neg) and something (idk what) happened and this is the results... I started my truck (got low voltage) and my Head Unit didn't turn on, along with amps. I put a test light on my 15amp Radio fuse in my fuse box by my kick panel and no power, so i pulled it and it wasn't blown but i replaced it anyway. Then put a test light on it and still no power. I pulled my Head Unit to check the factory 10amp fuse and i got the same issue, no power but not blown. On my f…

found this article via CYV forums!

Sorry my drawings are a little crude, but I'm taking an auto electrical class and some of our discussions got me thinking. I did a search and found nothing on it, but would like some input. I figured this would be a better place to post it than ca.com With series wiring, once power has passed through a load, there is a voltage drop depending on all 3 factors, Voltage, amperage, and ohms of resistance. With parallel wiring, each leg of the circuit gets the same voltage, only amperage and resistance fluctuate (they SHOULDN'T fluctuate differently in an audio setup, but if all coils are identical, theoretically, they all do the same thing) Remember, these are all theory, …

Hi everyone, I have a dual 2ohm that is 1200 wrms and 2000 peak. Can I run a 800wrms amp or more on each vc? the sub is PG titanium elite (proven power hogs). How common of a practice is this? The reason I ask is because it seems like that application would use the woofer to the fullness of its potential. Later everyone

Hi guys, i am writing a paper about the behavior of woofers tied in with resonance, tuning and such, the behavior of a woofer under stress (i.e. during use) and a detailed diagram of all the parts of the average woofer. i am focusing on these main topics: A) resonance/tuning 1) movement at and around the tuning frequency 2) the uses and benefits of diferent tunings, uses; musical and competitions B) Behavior under stress 1) impedance rise 2) thermal compression 3) box rise + the effect of tuning on it C) mechanical parts 1) Moving parts 2) suspension/soft parts, and effects of different styles of suspension materials 3) cooling technologies Thanks for taking the time to r…

I'm thinking of purchasing a cheap broken amplifier off ebay just to try to learn to repair it. I'm a fairly fast learner and am good at learning new things, so it seems like it might be a fun challenge... What's exactly involved? I know I would need a test power supply (computer psu?), dmm, soldering kit... Is the basic technique to just look for components that are burnt or have failed and replace them?

Hello, I am new to this forum and was hoping some of you guys could help me out. Do most company's build their motors to accommodate certain VC configurations, or is FI the only ones who do that? I plan on buying a 3HP or possibly a TC9 motor or woofer in the near future and wanted to know if it was a SVC 4 ohm sub, could I fit a DVC 4ohm coil in there? If someone can give me a heads up of what company's do or don't do this it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advanced.

I'd like to start a topic regarding the technical aspects of sound absorption and how it relates to improving the quality of sound in our vehicles. First, I think we need to hammer out the technicalities of the term "absorption" as there seems to be a ton of misinformation floating around on the forums. What does it really mean to "absorb" sound? How is it accomplished? Second, we should transition from theory to practice and discuss the merits of using this acoustical phenomenon in a vehicle. When should we use sound absorption in our cars? Where should we use it? And perhaps the most valuable question of all: Why should we even try to absorb sound in the first place??…

Not sure if this is the right section but... I couldn't find any info searching on the topic. When doing a SQ system, is something like this graph followed? Or would it make sense to setup your system to follow the graph, and adjust your EQ accordingly to how the sensitivity of the ear is for a more balanced sound? My only thought I guess is that music isn't all recorded the same, so I guess maybe this wouldn't be useful. Just a thought I had

So, what is the cause of "moving air"? There are two possibilities in my mind that I think would create this. #1. Air Displacement from the motion of the moving cone of the subwoofer. #2. Actual pressure (sound waves) moving the air inside of the car. In scenario #1 the key to moving the most air would be to have the most cone area, the most excursion of the subwoofers and to have a sealed box (ports have an opening in them so technically a port would help the equalization of air pressure inside of the car) This would also explain why Randy Kubek pretty much has a mobile wind tunnel because he has always ran sealed boxes. ( for reference) In scenario#2, there is much …

So, I figured this should be in the Advanced topic section because unless i'm the first with XS Wireless batteries, something abnormal is happening here. I've been testing and noticing some odd readings last night but i'll leave that aside for now... The new reading i got today was just flat out impossible- I have 1 12v battery sitting here. IT HAS NOTHING connected to it's positive terminal! Nothing is touching it, ran to it, etc. The ground terminal is paralleled with 11 other batteries. I set meter to Ohms. Probe the Positive terminal to the battery that has nothing on it. The other probe is ran to the Positive terminal to the next closest battery that is paralleled…

JL HD 600/4 - Channel 1 does NOT work!! i had all the connections checked and everything, but it's defective somehow. i got it to play after switching back the slope switch a couple of times, and then it would play for a little bit. then there would be some cackling, then the signal would just completely die in Channel 1. i can get it to play for a few minutes if i play with the switches on the amp, but that's about it. has anyone ever heard of this? i had my entire stereo installed by a JL dealer near me

Hey everyone, I'm having issues designing an all purpose (SQ while being loud) ported enclosure for my RE '06 XXX15 sub. I had a ported enclosure built. Its approx. 3.5ft^3. It has a rectangular L port with a port area of 60in^2. At the time when I designed the enclosure, I hadn't discovered WinISD or any other similar programs and just used the RE L Port calculator. This enclosure was supposed to be tuned to 35Hz. In short, its a mess. There is alot of port noise and it barely reporoduces anything under 35Hz. So I went back to the drawing board and learnt how to use WinISD. From what the program is telling me, it can't be tuned to 33Hz (which I want to achieve) unless th…

I was wondering if the box would sound better ported facing towards the cabin ,up against the back seats or closer towards the trunk opening ? And would it make a difference to completely seal off the trunk ?

Just looking around and thought this video might be interesting to some.. http://blog.edesignaudio.com/?p=244