Advanced Discussion

I tried to read the threads on how to make a slot port and etc. etc. I tried to use the ones on the net, but people keep saying they are off. So if you happen to have microsoft excel, you can use this on and plug and chug some numbers in to get your required port length. This is based off the equation on JL Audio's site and it also takes into account End correction. If anyone has any input or if the JL Audio equation is wrong, then let me know, I just wanted to do my port right. http://www.uploading.com/files/CFXVZ5QA/Sl...ulator.xls.html

What kind of tones do you guys use ? 0dB, -3dB, -6dB ? I've used the 0dB tones a few times. Worked ok with the gain setting for my mids but when I used it for the subs in 2 installs I had to turn up the gain (after setting it) just to blend the sub in with the front stage. I read everything here http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=4256 but except Jmac's post I don't think I could draw a conclusion for myself. By ear is good enough for my car ( I just need the sub to blend in) but when it comes to getting the full output on music, 0dB tones haven't worked

a subs ability to play lower frequencies loud and well? I'm talking about around 30-40 hz. Ive been told that the big factor is in fact not the box's tuning like I thought it was, so what exactly affects the subs performance at those frequencies?

I want to make sure I calculate this correctly because apparently i am slightly off, either that or other manufacturers are off. When calculating port length, let's say it says to use 26" long and you are, for example, using 12.56sq in of port which is for a 4" diameter port. Radius is 2" I thought to calculate slot port length was to take the 26" depth and subtract from that the sqin radius by converting the sqin value to a circle then finding the radius, which in this case is 2". That would then make the length 24" but when looking at manufacturer's giving you specs like a baby, either their calculations are wrong or i have been told wrong! So, what do i need to know to…

Ok, I have an s10 ext cab with a Fi Q10, run off a sundown sae-1000D put in a .6ft^3 sealed box. The box is down firing in the back of the cab right in the middle. First off, why does it get soooo much louder when the doors are opened? and second, how do I deal with this? I have been planning on building a ported box but before I go ahead and spend the time on another box, I would like to know if there is anything I can do to overcome the downfalls of a truck cab. Any takers? Thanks in advance, Mike B.

I'm am totally lost. All I know is that houses run 8 ohms and cars run from .5 to 4 ohms. what is the difference between running a sub at say 300 x 1 at 2 ohms and 200 x 1 at 4 ohms? What are ohms exactly?

Hello, I am new to this forum and was hoping some of you guys could help me out. Do most company's build their motors to accommodate certain VC configurations, or is FI the only ones who do that? I plan on buying a 3HP or possibly a TC9 motor or woofer in the near future and wanted to know if it was a SVC 4 ohm sub, could I fit a DVC 4ohm coil in there? If someone can give me a heads up of what company's do or don't do this it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advanced.

I need to build a new test enclosure and in the process prefer to use a removable baffle. In the past I have used something like this: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...products_id=768 I am also curious if anyone has any specific implementation recommendations on bolt spacing, overlap of the gasket, better gasket materials, and so on.

I think this will be the best place to post this as I am not ready to buy anything for a bit, but I do want to know what to buy when I am and be better informed. What I would like to know is what limits us from getting down to verry low Hz in speakers with any real force. I know the basic design doesn't allow us to get to .0000001hz mechanicaly and such but what factors contribute to this and what should someone look for in trying to acheive this? I don't think I am asking the question correctly because I don't have a strong grasp on the lingo enough to use it properly, but I usualy understand technical jargon when used or I can look it up, so I'll give you the applicati…

What are the advantages of lowering the temperature in the cabin to gain higher dbs. example: refrigerating the cabin to say 50f before taking a spl reading VIA portable refrigeration unit powered by a generator.

I have an 02 monte carlo. the factory amp has an internal crossover to the door drivers and seperate tweeters. if i buy new component system do i discard new external crossover. i have 4 wires in factory harness and am adding an amp to power new componts. i am keeping my stock head unit for now and there are no pre amp outs.i know that new crossover should be installed wity new spkrs. but the wiring has me stumped.thanks for any help i can get.

Hey guyz, I know that different cones have differents advantages and drawbacks: - strength - lightness - ease of use But what I am wondering is what kind of "sound" (metallic, warm, etc...) do those have - subwoofer cones by the way. For example, hemp, kevlar, aluminum, titanium, threated paper, and so on... Thanks Kelvin

Hi guyz... Happy New Year, all the best, keep safe and healthy. On to the topic. I would like to know if an amp @ 4 ohm pushing 600 watts will draw the same (amperage) as opposed to the same amp pushing 600 watts but at @ 2 ohm (hope that is english lol) Not sure if it has been answered before. Thanks for the help. Kelvin

im gonna try it.. i searched and havent seen anyone else try it yet.. THEORETICALLY the QTS is quite low for an IB application.. but you never know til you try it.. so im gonna throw up a quick baffle, a super quick seal, and throw a very low amount of power to it... like 300- 400 watts... just to get a feel of sound.. i decided to try this because i am stuck on how to build an adequate enclosure for my G35 coupe.. im trying to stuff two 12" iCONs in there.. but i want 3.0 a peice... which is next to impossible without building the enclosure into the trunk. if the IB doesnt work, il have no choice but to put the subs into much smaller enclosures(2.2ish) il keep you updat…

I'm going to use this to bring up questions I have or to discuss certain things I've thought about so I can get a better understanding of it. Please be patient with me though as I am still quite young. The first thought I have is about inductance. Does the cemf have much effect in the range of subwoofers? What about inductance modulation?

In ported enclosure, if you were to use PVC or Aero ports of different sizes tuned to different fequencies what would be the end result? Would the tuning frequency of the box be based off of the total port area or how would that exacly work? J

Ive had my 1 rfr3110 in a regular square-ish prism shaped ported box no polyfil and at first all I wanted was boom. At higher volumes, theres a noise that I dont know how to describe, but I think its just reverb from within the box or something. Now im tired of boom and really want smooth bass, just LOUD smooth bass. By the way, its in a chevy lumina trunk, stock battery, will have 200A alt, 1x dub8001 (i know, not the best by far...). I have another sub (same kind) and amp (same as the amp im using) and im just saving up for an alternator, so in the meantime Ive been thinking of boxes that will help boost sound quality and eliminate standing waves. The point for this top…

Hey, I was wondering how you would go about hooking up two different alternators? I have a 180 amp alternator installed on my car right now, and I was wondering if it would be possible to hook up my stock alternator also. I'm trying to do this because I have a 2500D and I have read it sucks a lot of juice. I'm guessing I would need some kind of regulator, just trying to make it where my 180 would be for my audio. Then the 80 amp would be solely for my car's electronics. Any kind of past experiences or info would be awesome. Thanks Taylor

I have done my reading but I still do not know enough, I want to learn how to design them and the strengths and weakness of each. I hope to design and build one of these for an RL-i 8

Hi Guyz, Not sure if I'm in the right section... Firstly, please don't flame me on this one... Just trying new things. Let's say I will use a Maxxbass 103 processor that adds upper harmonics to the sound, making a component sounds like it is playing deeper due to the psychoacoustical effect. I have also read that it actually decreases (on some frequencies) the Xmax by 4. The component I'd like to use in that example is the RL-i8 Here is my question: Due to having the Xmax decreased, will that mean the component can handle more power 1/ for not reaching maximum excursion with the power applied 2/ for having a dual voice coil instead of one - that might sound stupid…

I'd just like to bring up a certain point to the every raging debate whether cone size plays a role in a sub's "quickness." At a certain frequency and excursion, any sub's cone will be traveling the same speed. No argument there. But what about the transitions from rest to that frequency and from one frequency to another? I'm looking at the Force = Mass * Acceleration equation here. If both a large sub and a small sub have the same motor structure, I believe it is safe to assume the force is constant. Therefore, an increase in mass has to lead to a decrease in acceleration. Are these differences in acceleration large enough for us to hear? Am I missing some other pa…

I actually have a few questions. I have two different box ides. If I build a box with the sub facing UP, and fire the port into the car, will i lose spl? And as well, if i build a box with the Sub facing UP, and the port facing up, will I have a greater, or same as the bass response from firing the sub to the rear of the trunk. In other words, will facing the port in a different direction then the sub, affect the spl factor of the sub.

Feel free to post links on how to fiberglass.....stay on topic please....below are a compilation from various members from caraudio.com http://web.njit.edu/%7Ecas1383/proj/main/ http://www.sounddomain.com/id/the1wagsjlguy http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/ http://www.caraudioresources.net/technical.html http://www.sounddomain.com/member_p...?page_id=338498 http://www.sounddomain.com/id/jeep98 http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/glassing/ http://www.geocities.com/stevebang2000/car-audio.html http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/fibrglas.htm http://www.sounddomain.com/id/goddyd4me http://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/ubb...int=;DaysPrune= http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/ http://www…

I have 4 4 ohm 10's in my car now, wired to 1 ohm for my saz-1500d. I am thinking of upgrading to 4 12's. The 12's I am looking at only come in dvc config, so to get 1 ohm, i need to get dvc-2's. My question is should I wire the coils on each sub series and then wire the subs parallel, or vice-versa? Would it make a difference to the amp? I would end up with a 1 ohm load either way. Any help would be appreciated.

I thought this would be interesting since different materials have been a hot topic recently. As in: Non-pressed paper, pressed paper, pulp, plastic, wood fiber, IMPP, carbon fiber, Aluminum, Titanium, woven fiber, poly, etc... which material would be the best to use in what application etc....