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Hoping someone like Scott @ Fi or some of the other manufacturers/designers on this forum will chime in here. When designing a driver how are small signal parameters and large signal peformance considered or correlated throughout the design and testing phase of the product? For example; Are the target (small signal) T/S parameters and design analyized via computer program and then large signal performance tested simply by "playing" with and testing the physical driver? Or are the large and small signal performance predicted via computer and then the physical driver tested? Do you have any sort of target large parameter shift when designing a driver compared to the sma…

Well since ascendant has slashed the price on the Assasin more than likely assasins will be in my GF's moms truck and my GF's car. For my GF's car if a wicked one just wont work the way i want it to this is my idea...Transmisison line in a false floor. I have a few questions though, Would it be a good idea to put the speakers (probably two assasin 10's) 1/3 down the line to eliminate harmonics from the transmission line? Ive read death stories about improperly designed transmission lines ending up sounding more like organs than SQ enclsoures because of harmonics . Also, Does anyone know of a formula for how much X ammount of stuffing will dampen the sound of speed X a…

Lil while back I'd tried a TL in my grand am. Kind of just to do it... I don't recall the exact specs on it, though it is still in the garage, so I could measure as need be. It twas not very large. I ran it with a Vega Vega 12" at the time. Very clean nice sound, not so much extension... but I believe the line was too short. The reason I stopped running it was that with higher musical notes (low 40's - upper 50's), the woofer would bottom out. Only in this enclosure had I ever had this thing bottom out. I tried a Visonik 126S4 that I'd had laying around, similar wattage (250rms actual), and very similar results. Point of the thread: What kind of EBP or mechanical propert…

Ok to start this thread off. Please do NOT post information you read from the internet where the original writer could of pulled out there ass. Just don't do it. Facts only here please. No He said she said bullshit. To get started, I was reading and come across some info. No need to get into what it was, but it lead me to really find the truth about wiring. I think there is so much bullshit being passed around as the truth its not funny anymore. WeLl I finally want to inform people of what's really being advertised, and how to draw a conclusion from that. Ok so you have 4 major types of wire talked about in the audio world. OFC Silver Tinned OFC Copper Tinned OFC CCA Bas…

Hello i have a question for you tech guys. my truck peaks at 48 hertz and my wall is tuned to 38 hertz. do i need to retune my wall to 48 hertz to match the trucks resonance for cabin gain to take effect? im currently doing 154.3 and i want to break the 155 mark. been reading for hous on multiple forums and read different things and just getting confused. can some one please help.

I'm looking into buying a 15" BTL fully loaded. My question is, can I tune my box lower than the recommended fs frequency? If I did, would it affect the sub in a bad way? Poor sound quality? Just wondering if there would be a negative effect on the sub. I think the fs frequency on the 15" BTL is 37.9. I like low frequency hip hop and want to tune my box low like 30 hz (at the lowest 25 hz). Is this not a good idea, what would be the result?

In ported enclosure, if you were to use PVC or Aero ports of different sizes tuned to different fequencies what would be the end result? Would the tuning frequency of the box be based off of the total port area or how would that exacly work? J

I'm curious on what type of aluminum people use for bus bars and such? I will be making some to fit my post batteries because I can't find any terminals I like. Plus making my own will cost less, because I need four.

I've never really tried my hand at making a great sounding front stage, I usually buy a set of components and throw an amp at them. This time around I would really like to understand what makes up a great front stage and why. what about cone size, do you start with choosing a tweeter and then work your way down to the mid woofer? Help me better understand the things I don't know.

Ok, I have an s10 ext cab with a Fi Q10, run off a sundown sae-1000D put in a .6ft^3 sealed box. The box is down firing in the back of the cab right in the middle. First off, why does it get soooo much louder when the doors are opened? and second, how do I deal with this? I have been planning on building a ported box but before I go ahead and spend the time on another box, I would like to know if there is anything I can do to overcome the downfalls of a truck cab. Any takers? Thanks in advance, Mike B.

Hello, I am new to this forum and was hoping some of you guys could help me out. Do most company's build their motors to accommodate certain VC configurations, or is FI the only ones who do that? I plan on buying a 3HP or possibly a TC9 motor or woofer in the near future and wanted to know if it was a SVC 4 ohm sub, could I fit a DVC 4ohm coil in there? If someone can give me a heads up of what company's do or don't do this it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advanced.

Sorry my drawings are a little crude, but I'm taking an auto electrical class and some of our discussions got me thinking. I did a search and found nothing on it, but would like some input. I figured this would be a better place to post it than ca.com With series wiring, once power has passed through a load, there is a voltage drop depending on all 3 factors, Voltage, amperage, and ohms of resistance. With parallel wiring, each leg of the circuit gets the same voltage, only amperage and resistance fluctuate (they SHOULDN'T fluctuate differently in an audio setup, but if all coils are identical, theoretically, they all do the same thing) Remember, these are all theory, …

I've been having some issues with the voltage in my truck. When i start it it will be around 14.0v-14.5v but after about a minute without playing any music it will drop to about 12.2v and roam between 12v-13v. I dont get any voltage drop when playing music either(maybe .1v-.2v drop but thats normal) if anything it will go back up just a little. Any insight/advice would be greatly appreciated.

I went ahead and designed some retrofits for a pair of Bazooka wakeboard tower speakers. The crossover took some time but came out decent in the end...

What aluminum alloy is best for electrical? Im asking because im using very thick and wide aluminum buss bars on my next build.

a subs ability to play lower frequencies loud and well? I'm talking about around 30-40 hz. Ive been told that the big factor is in fact not the box's tuning like I thought it was, so what exactly affects the subs performance at those frequencies?

A few people on this board have asked me about group delay, I mention it from time to time. Here is a good primer Dan Wiggins wrote about it: http://www.audiodesignguide.com/Sub/SIGroupDelay.pdf Hopefully this will help some of you! -Mike

hey whats up, I am learning about enclosure design and tuning and was wondering about two terms "imp rise" and "unloading". I breezed through a thread on imp rise and got some very good information. Its the unloading part that im not to clear on. I have a 15" Fi BL Loaded and think that I have damaged it due to unloading (I think). My question is how does it affect the subwoofer, what kind of damage can this do, can a recone kit fix the sub if broken due to unloading. I was having problems where my sub would cut out then cut back in for some reason as I was playing low frequencies. The amp was not clipping or going into protect as I could see all the LED's while this…

So Im tryin to come up with a design for my 18's and im stuck.. I can either have 122.5 inches of port at 5.5 cubes at 34hz or 70inches of port at 7.4 cubes at 28hz im leaning towards the 1st one or i can have even more space and just use aero ports thoughts?

I'm thinking of purchasing a cheap broken amplifier off ebay just to try to learn to repair it. I'm a fairly fast learner and am good at learning new things, so it seems like it might be a fun challenge... What's exactly involved? I know I would need a test power supply (computer psu?), dmm, soldering kit... Is the basic technique to just look for components that are burnt or have failed and replace them?

I am thinking about buying some off E-bay and they have good feedback and all but is this brand name any good? Havent heard too much as far as quality and who's line of Dynamat/Sound suppressing material to know which to get? All I know is I need something because my car rattles everywhere inside and the trunk is falling apart. Need advice!! The listing on e-bay is {http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5828796442&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1} That seems either kinda cheap or just a good deal! They always have a list of bidders so it might be good but I don't know.50 Sq.Ft for #49.99 + 19.99 to ship. What ya'll think? Thanks

I have 4 4 ohm 10's in my car now, wired to 1 ohm for my saz-1500d. I am thinking of upgrading to 4 12's. The 12's I am looking at only come in dvc config, so to get 1 ohm, i need to get dvc-2's. My question is should I wire the coils on each sub series and then wire the subs parallel, or vice-versa? Would it make a difference to the amp? I would end up with a 1 ohm load either way. Any help would be appreciated.

If you don't want to read my rant: Can someone explain how setting an amp with a DD-1 on track 5 with a 40Hz -10db can still cause me to overdrive my sub with STANDARD music. If I play my sub at 40 out of 47 volume for 1 hour, should the dustcap be warm? Hot? No change at all? 40/47 is less than the rated 1500 watts of the BL (at least at my best guess, especially at 13.8V instead of 14.4V). I want to protect my $1,000 investment in my trunk. I have had a blast with my new Fi BL 15. My head unit's "unclipped" volume is 47 out of 50, and I have never had it past 40. It is very loud, and with a 1500W RMS rating, it is probably getting 1200W at Vol. 40 hooked up to a R…

found this article via CYV forums!

Just been wondering why there is no love for them here??? Lol havent had any of their products they seem to be good and at a very good price but the curiosity is killing me at this point and decided to make this question here, wondering is there a dark history of why it seems like they arent very welcomed here in this forum???