Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Bought an aftermarket alternator from DC power, I put it in and the top OEM braket wold fit the new one. Will the alt be ok with just the bottom screws holding it in?

Alright well earlier this year my headunit crapped out (stock ford explorer 2002 xlt) and wouldn't pull the cd in, the things that pull and eject the cd don't work. Then randomly it started working, and after getting my car repaired it stopped. So now my Bday is on sunday, and I figure I might as well get a new headunit. I'm looking for a decent, affordable headunit. Near the 150$ dollar range I guess. More or less, Idk how much to be exact and I know I can't get that good of a headunit for that price but it should be better than nothing. I'm looking for subwoofer rca output, preferably 4v preout or higher (idk, maybe 2v won't be that bad?), iPod Touch (1st gen) hookup a…

ok so my stock harness is fudgeed....how do i know? i hooked up the stock deck.. and i attached a HONDA wiring harness to it and wired up my Eclipse, still no good.. so i decided to wire up the HU directly.. only problem now is i need a direct illumination wire, help plz?

what would be a god amp to run it?

okay so i know this might be a noob question but hey im a noob lol. so i want to run 2 runs of 0 guage power to my amp, but they amp only has one input so can i take a normal distribution block and put the two power wires from the battery up front into the the usual out spots and put one run from the amplifier to the input of the block? i will also run 2 runs of ground if i can, i just want to make sure i get as much power to my amp as i can even know i know its over kill. hopefully i can upload this right but here is a picture to help explain what i mean.

yup so basically this is why i own 5 of them total now and for being under 150 dollars u cannot beat it

I will be starting my build log as soon as I get a job, either this month (hopefully) or next month (at the latest) so I want to do everything right any buy the book. I drive a 2003 Saturn Ion with stock alternator for now(depending if I run my sub amp at 1 ohm or 2 ohms) and I have done the Big 2 (Grounds - Engine Block to Frame / 1run and Battery to Frame / 2runs) in Kicker HyperFlex 1/0 AWG. I will be using a Kenwood KDC-X492 (will be upgrading after the build is complete) for head unit with a Epic Center 160 for voltage and bass in older recordings since I listen to a lot of old school music. The subs have not been decided on and the interior speakers have not been de…

if I could get a brand new one for 215 shipped, is there any reason not to? I know of the SAE1200D and AQ1200D's that are 250 shipped. I have had one of these amps about 4 years ago probably, and really liked it, but are the other 2 choices way better? I know Ive heard alot of bad things about their business pracitces in years past, but just try and think of product ability when you make a choice. not going to buy my subs right now, but figured when the NINe.1 is usually way more expensive I figured Id buy it now while I can get that price.

Here is my set up HU - 880PRS Sub - IDQ12 (DVC) Front - HAT "L" 2 way (coming soon) I was thinking of running the 125.2 bridged 4-ohm to the IDQ (350w) 100.4 Channel 1 and 2 to run the tweeters in normal 4-ohm (90w) Channel 3 and 4 bridged 4-ohm into the 6.5" mids (320w) Can I run the 100.4 in regular and bridged mode at the same time? Does this set-up make sence?

Just got my system hooked up today but I have a very annoying whine or hum in the speakers. Its there with the truck running or not, but worse when it is running. I think from reading that this is a ground problem, but I have moved the amplifier ground to a few different places inside the cab of the truck, seat belt, seat mount bolt, I cant get rid of it. Can anyone help?

could i possibly get a description and maybe a diagram of how to run the big three ? thank you !!!!!

ive been into car audio for three years mostly kicker but i decided to upgrade i have a rd1750.1 and a sundown nightshade v1 d1 15 i am new to hi end car audio so can someone tell me what voltage my output should be to have my gain set correctly at 2 ohms which is 840 watts and at point five which is 2225 watts please would appreciate the help dont wanna clip my new set up

ok so i figured id give em a try and ordered a h/o alt from db electrical. suppose to be 200a at 1200 rpm n 105a at idle, but wats idle to them? im running a sundown sae 1200 v2 at 1 ohm so around 1500w rms. when im driving down the road the most ive seen voltage drop is about .5 volts on very low hard hitting songs. that part is wat i do like. wat i dont like is when i pull up to a stoplight or stop sign voltage sits at 13.1 with nothing on, 12.6-9 with my lights on. if im in park at idle voltage will sit around 13.9 but if i do anything, roll down a window, turn on the air or heat it drops dramatically, windows pull it down to low 13s(thats one window at a time, rolling…

Im getting ready to install theese products in my 1991 Ford Explorer XLT and would like some advice whether these brands are any good at all and if not what else to get with the stuff I have already bought..ok.. this is what I've got Brand: Lanzar Vibe 248 1200 Watts Amp(for subs) Brand:Dual 12 Inch Subs In Bandpass Box Brand:Jensen A222HLX 250 Amp(for front stock speakers, possibley rear stock as well). Thanx beforehand, Morgan

Just out of curiosity has anyone ever used a harrison labs amplifier and are they capable of doing music? They actually look pretty cool and are tiny for the power they claim. After seeing the drag queen most everybody says all the hlab amps are spl burps only. Just curious not really interested in buying one.

will the sundown 3000d run 1 ohm stable, and not get hot. im interested in buying it when they restock it. if i can run 2 fi bl's at 1 ohm. and if so will this be to much power.

Well guys---I read alot of forums and it looks as though ALOT of people are misinformed about the "basics" of car audio----I need your help----tell me a topic in which we can all give our input and see if we can come to learn more-----I personally am sick of seeing these "which sub or which amp" topics----it is called "learn then deside for yourself". I will talk in depth about all of the topics you want but I need a start----you guys from FXN.net know me pretty well to know I can talk for days about car audio. for the guys that don't know me---- http://www.fordexplorer.net/viewforum.php?f=10 Alot of the stickys are mine. Read and enjoy. Live and LEARN, Dave

Have been looking at the Crescendo 1100.4 & the DC175.4 & somewhat at the new Incriminator Audio's new 4 channel..after reading a few problems with the Crescendos amp's having problems it made me steer away..but I also read quite a bit of positive feedback also, and price is $420 shipped, While DC is ~$600 for a little bit more power.. I have (4) Audiopipe ATX 4060 ST & (4) PWX 6.5 Crescendos. Plan to wire them 2 speakers on each channel.. putting it at 2 ohms output. I wanted to go with the Crescendo Amp, because I read quite a bit of positive feedback about it, and it is in my price range, but if there is quite a bit of problems going on with them I'd …

i need to find 2 amps that will make my 15" solarbarics pound like no other. they hold a max of 2000w and run at 1000w rms. give me suggestions- i wnt to run 1 of the same amp to each.

Ok i'm getting a saz 3000 and a 250 alt now i need to know which battery you guys would suggest i'm lookin at kinetik and optima but don't know which one of either any suggestion thanks

Wanna make a work station radio with a car audio head unit! What do I need to make it work in my basement?

I've got a 2002 Cummins and it has two sets of batterys under the hood and I was wondering could I just run two of the biggest kinetics up front and run my power wire from one of them back to my amp for about 5k I havemt decided yet but is that an option?

I'm in the market for a new HU(since the mazda 6 kit is almost out). Here are my requirements: - at least 4 volt pre-outs, including one for sub - crossover for sub/mid/hi - red illuminated buttons or at least majority red illumination - would like it to be a silver color to match my dash but not necessary - mp3 capability I'm trying to gauge my options right now, and no price limit.

Basically, I am contemplating the carputer idea heavily and will be looking for ideas as far as EQing and setting the system up. I want it headunitless, so an external unit is needed. Is there something out that has all the features of an active type of headunit? (think TA etc...) Any ideas post them up, the carputer is only in the early stages but I will be putting everything together in pieces. Help me out here

I am looking at getting a Sundown 3000D and a 100.4, I have a stock 110 amp alternator but I think the car uses most of it because it has a lot of electronic crap. So would I be fine maybe getting like two deep cycle batteries one for starter and one for system and running a isolator, or am I gonna have to get a HO alternator? The only way I can get an alternator is to get it custom made and I'm sure that won't be cheap. I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre with a 3.8, if anyone can find an alternator for that car at the size I need then I would be grateful but I have searched everywhere and can not find one. But back to the batteries what would be a good brand to go with for star…