Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Im looking for a component set. with the addition of this 18" BTL its damn near impossible to hear high end over the bass this thing outputs.. I went to some stereo shops to see some products up close.. saw a set of the Fosgate power 6.5's.. has the driver, tweeter and crossover network.. price in store is crazy, but found the same set on the internet alot cheaper. Im concerned how they hook up as ive never had a pair of components before. Do you just use 1 channel of your amp per door.. Let me explain what i mean more.. go here My link see how the crossover box has 2 inputs and 2 outputs.. i just got done running all new wire to each door to a 4 ch amp.. will i have to c…

Alright, read thru the pinned topic for this, seems easy enough..but im doing something wrong.. im usin an old school volt meter but it has "ACV 200 and ACV 500" .. i set it to ACV 200 (AC volts)..the amp is a Sundown SAZ1500D running at 1 ohm so... voltage = sqrt (1500 * 1) voltage = 38.72 ish.. can someone verify that please... so i pop in the 50hz test tone, loud off, bass boost off..volume to 3/4 and I stick the voltmeter to the outputs of the amp.. it tells me 2.8 and up to 5.something at full gain.. something is wrong just not sure what. appreciate any help.

I've searched here and there, been to the12volt, etc etc etc. I'm still a little bit confused on how exactly to wire three amps with one remote wire. I've photochopped something from the12volt to illustrate my issue. Not much of a photoshop, but you get the idea. The question is this: Do I splice each remote wire from the three amps into the same single wire coming from the relay? Thanks for any advice.

i need a 2 OHM amplifier, obviously kicker makes the best of the bunch. but i need a good lead to a cheaper 2 ohm amplifer, company, or just model

i was just wondering if anyone knew of a quality monoblock amp, 1-2ohm stable, for under $250.00 and between 800-1200watts. i need one for my two 12" subs. but the thing is i am Very limited on cash. any suggestions would be greatly appriciated

I just ordered an Audioque 2200d and I want to order the wiring kit now, not when the amp gets here and want to know what size cable does this amp take? I'm speaking of the main (+) and (-).

I just had the 5030 installed in my girlfriends car and I need advice from someone that has experience with this deck on the settings. I have 6 1/2s in the front and back running off the deck and a 750 watt Kicker amp powering a sealed Icon 15.

Hey Guys! Alpine has came out with a new PDX series! They look pucking sexy as ever Few Copy and Pastes from their website. Power Management Processor PDX amps incorporate Alpine’s new Power Management circuit. The Power Management Processor controls all aspects of amplifier performance, monitoring voltage, temperature and output to ensure uninterrupted power output for non-stop listening. If the amp gets too hot, the Thermal Protection circuit kicks in and gradually decreases output power until it cools down. Once cool, the power output automatically increases back to the previous level. If the circuit detects a Low Battery condition, it will gradually decrease power …

Friend told me it's a new brand on the block The Crescendo 3KWP Monoblock amplifier exhibits a multitude of advantages for it's users system. Supplying over 3300 watts RMS of CLEAN power at 1 ohm at a normal 14volts to the subwoofers its powering. Made with some of the highest grade components and built with industry leading attention to detail, the 3KWP is the powerhouse it was made to be. Backed by a 2 year transferable warranty and 5 day money back garantee, we are confident that this monoblock is the right choice for you. Class-D Monoblock stable into very low Ohm loads Gold plated Tiffany input/output connecters for optimal signal transfer and no ripped out ground s…

i need an amp to push my 15" btl fully loaded dual 2ohm. i cant post in the fs/wtb section so i figured i would try to see what my options are this way. i am looking for something that is 2000w+ @1 ohm stable and not too power hungry. i have two yellow tops, 220 amp alt and all 0g wire (including "the big 3") i sit at about 14.4 volts with the truck at an idle and 3 viar compressors runnin. im lookin to spend about 350 shipped. if you think of any that might wok for me please post them up. not sure if i can buy one from anyone on here cause of my lack of post but if i can just send me a pm. thnx.

ok so im going to need to get a new headunit for my car, which stereo is cheap (300>) but allows me to control my Ipod through the stereo its self. ive got one in mind but i want you all to tell me what you think is a good stereo. also i saw that Soundstram has some perdy flip ups that do exactly what i need it to, but im guessing the price is like a grand. anyone got info on their stereos?

I have always crimped my connections as they mostly are 8 awg or less. Moving to large wire I have found crimping to be a royal pain in the a$$. I was looking at soldering as a nice option but I have only ever soldered water pipes. Is the process and technique basicly the same? Flux the wire and inside of bass connector, heat connector, insert wire and place solder around the edge of the wire so that it is pulled into the connector? Any help that you could provide or tricks of the trade would be great. Plan on upgrading the Big 3 this weekend and some under the hood wiring. Thank you.

Will work for an amp stable at 1/2 ohm mono correct?

I have a 2.2L 2002 Oldsmobile Alero and am having a tough time finding a high output alternator bigger than 150amps. I'm just wondering if somebody has this car and purchased one, I called a place and they said an alternator made for a 1999-2002 Chevy cavalier MIGHT FIT, so that's a take a chance and hope you're right. I am running 2000 watts right now, my alternator fried today and have been searching for hours trying to find one but nothing comes up. I figure I might as well get one now instead of wasting $100 to get a new 105amp one. Otherwise would a second battery work after the big 3 upgrade? I have 2 1000 watt alpines and 2 pioneer premiers ts-w3004spl but will be …

Ok guys I'm looking for some advice towards the two topics as stated in the title. I'm running a sundown Sae-1200d and an FI bl 18". Currently stock alt , stock batt, all 1/0 ga wire and batt neg to chassis ground in 1/0. I'm initially looking to put a new battery up front or (possibly in the back) but the new batt would be running of the stock alt for while whether it be in the trunk with the stock batt up front or the new batt up front solo. I'm looking to save some $ up and get a new ho alternator in later on. Right now I'm looking at the kinetik hc1800 which does 1150 cca and fits my budget of being under $250. This battery will also fit up front under my hood as wel…

heey guys i have a Fibl 18un wiht cooling dual 10hm to a jbl gto1200 amp going at 1200watts rms. so orginally i set the gain by ear and had it at little less then 3/4s of the way. Then i set it using the voltmeter and play a 50hz tone with my radio volume 3/4 and i set it to 47 My math for it was 1200X2 then take square root u'd get around 49. but when i did that and played bass i love you at about little less then 3/4 it was barely flexing before it was just dancing adn it not as loud and it sounded like there was more stress on the sub. Got any advice?

Hi everyone, I'm looking to finish the big 3 in my car. I already have a 0 ga wire from battery - to chassis. My alternator is difficult to reach. I must "lift" the car to reach it under the motor. My question is : can I take a point anywhere on the engine block and ground it to the chassis of the car (with a 0 ga wire) ? (I know !). That would be the third part of the big 3. I have a stock alternator, maybe the (+) alt to (+) battery part is not a "must do" part for me. Another question : I have one 0 ga wire with ring connectors, and one 2/0 marine grade wire with ring connectors too. Which one would you choose for the battery to ground, and for the engine block to g…

hey guys u have a fi bl 18in dual 1 ohm going to a 1200gto jbl amp at 1200watts rms at 2ohm. i want to make sure that i had this right when i go to set my gains. So i put the 50hz tone. The math is 1200X2(rmsXimdependance) then take the square root of that so i should get 48.98 so when i go to set my gains and i use the volt metter i should set it until i get to 48.98. im pretty sure thats how you do it but just wanna double check dont wanna blow my sub im goin to post pics soon the box for it is amazing custom paint by friend

Finally got my BTL 18" reconed!!! only have a hifonics 1600 watt pushing it but when i try to blast it the amp cuts off because its ran at .75 ohms. but anyways, just wonderin if anyone has a american bass 150.1 for sale.....

Just bought a Optima red top for a starter battery and a Shuriken BT100 for the trunk. Never upgraded my electrical before, in fact I will doing big 3 for the first time as well. Which brings me to my confusion. With all the 0 gauge wiring why do all the terminals I see for sale have only one 0 gauge input and then a 2/4 and 8's? I see kukonceptz has a triple 0 gauge terminal that is compatible up to 4 gauge but Im not sure if I will need anything higher for my positive terminal on the hood battery. Also, will I need terminals for the rear battery? Trying to get what I need and get it cheap without being crappy Pretty much what anyone wants to do. Would really appreciate…

so mostly everyone knows about clipping, when the music gets turned up and it hits a bass note, starts to play it then quickly drops off. well i've been having this problem ever since i got my new setup and i've read the how to set the gain of an amp thread, done it. no change and i've tested the impedance of my vioce coils and they're correct, dual 1s i've tested the ohms on the output of my amp and it's reading 2 flat which is what it's supposed to be i've re wired my sub to the amp and checked my rca's but it still clips when it gets turned up. any other suggestions, please?

Amplifiers | 01 | 02 |ELEMENT-5 5209315ELP-5001D 1 Ohms Max Power: 5000w x 1 2 Ohm Max Power: 3000w x 1 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1400w x 1 2 Ohm RMS Power: 2000w x 1 1 Ohm RMS Power: 2600w x 1 S/N Ratio: 90dB THD: 0.08% Channel Separation: 60dB Frequency Response: 15Hz-400Hz Low Pass Frequency: 35Hz-250Hz Bass Boost Control: 45Hz (0-18dB) Phase Shift: 0-180? Amplifiers ELEMENT-5 5209315ELP-5001D 1 Ohms Max Power: 5000w x 1 2 Ohm Max Power: 3000w x 1 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1400w x 1 2 Ohm RMS Power: 2000w x 1 1 Ohm RMS Power: 2600w x 1 S/N Ratio: 90dB THD: 0.08% Channel Separation: 60dB Frequency Response: 15Hz-400Hz Low Pass Frequency: 35Hz-250Hz Bass Boost Control: 45Hz (0-18dB)…

IM TRYIN TO REPAIR MY 1000 WATT CRUNCH AMP AND I CANT FIND A PIC OF THE INSIDE GUTS OF THIS DAMN THING IVE LOOKED EVERY WHERE SO ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT A FEW OF THE DIODS I THONK THERE CALLED FRIED SO I NEED TO REPAIR IF ITS POSSABLE IM NEW TO ALL THIS SO I WOULD LIKE SOME IMPUT THANK YOU OR MAYBE A SCHMATIC ON THIS THING WOULD KICK ASS

So I'm not new to car audio, but I'm new to the fine tuning. Years ago, I'd wire a sub to an amp and be done with it. Now, I've found that it's a little more technical than that. Here's my issue: I'm doing the 'gain setting,' and I'm not sure how to calculate the target voltage. I read somewhere that when you run a dual 4ohm sub, you have the double the target voltage, but I'm not sure if that's true or not. The target voltage of my current sub amp is 43.8@ 4ohms, 42@3ohms and 40@2ohms. I'm running an old JL 12W3v2, dual 4ohm sub. I have it wired in parallel, so I can bring it down to 2ohms. Does that mean that my target voltage is now 80? My brain is going to start spill…

Here's my new nightmare problem. I have to completely re-build my H/O alternator for my 2005 Ford Ranger XLT. This is a 3.0 V6 2WD and a Iraggi 260 amp H/O Ford 3G Large Case alternator. Due to a limited budget I am pressed to do this myself instead of sending it off for repair. I will be re-building it with a H/O 240 amp re-build kit. Here's some pics of my progress so far. I still need to order the kit so I have to wait to re-build it and test the final results. Here's the rear bearing and slip ring: Rotor assembly has a broken lead: The rectifier this part usually goes bad. It has diodes that take the AC power produced from the Rotor & Stotor and turns it into…