Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

so is a second stock alt going to be as good as an ho alt?? the town i live in has an auto program at college that i can get a alt from a junk yard for $$22.00 and they well clean up and run through it for me, (im waiting on a call back from them to se if they can recoil it as well) and they have a fabricating shop that for the price of materials well make a mounting bracket also i know that there are alot of car audio specific companys that make batteries, but would 1 everlast maxx 1N under hood(replace stock) and 4 in back(total 5) be just as good as 3 audio batteries? i can get the ELmaxx1N's for 89.99 apeice so like 450.00 for 5 batts?? just woundering

I just installed my EA HO Alt and this thing is performing very well. Limiting factor with installing it is the factory limiter at 14.1 volts. I spoke with Nate and he said in order to get the most out of it 14.8 -15 volts I would have to return it so he could adjust the regulation and then run it using the external regulation. No big deal, but my question is this. How much of a difference would my system notice running at 14.8 volts than at 14.1 volts? I'm thinking it should be minimal, but I wanted to ask others and get some input. Thanks.

Ok. I plan on putting 2 15" orion hcca subs in my car and would like to know a few things. I have 2 orion 25001d class amps for each and want to put only 2000 watts into each. So how many amps does my alternator needs to be and do i need more than one? And whats the best type of audio battery to use for under the hood and in the trunk? Thanks.

I am not going to be ready to buy for about 6 more months. I just don't have the expertise as to brands and availability for my particular application. I would like to see 140amps. Any direction is much appreciated. Thanks, Chris

I have a 1992 buick century custom with a 3.3l v6 and it has a delco stock alternator, and it already has the Big 3 installed and my lights dim really badly now that I hooked up the xcon today, my last sub was 1000rms now im doing 1600rms on the amp, and my cars electrical hates it. I can here the bass distort whenever the voltage needle dips. So I was looking for a cheap upgrade since this is only gonna be my car for less than a year. I found a rebuild kit to upgrade a delco cs130 alternator to 180 amps, which the cs130 is what replaces this alternator if i go to autozone, but i'm not sure if thats whats in it now. I know its a delco but I don't know where to look for a …

I bought an 230A alternator from Nations Starter and Alternator in Cape Girardeau, MO about a year ago for $450, my warrenty is expired and now its squeaking. I spoke to the guy at the store and he says that there is no way that alternator is squeaking he said that he was 1000% (yes 1000%) sure it had to be something else but not the alternator. He is stuck on his work being perfect. All I can say is that I would never ever buy anything from them again. Ok now that thats out of the way, should i take it to an alternator shop to get it fixed, or should i just get a new one. And if so where can i get a 200-250 Amp alternator for a reasonable price? Its for a 2000 Dodge Dako…

looking for the biggest oem fit alternator for a honda civic. i dont mind going up to 200 amp but there not a direct fit. and looking for a single wire alternator as well.

Here's the deal - I'm working on putting my system together. I want to make sure I have my electrical taken care of. Amp will be 3000rms I was thinking about the following options: Option 1: Big 3 HO Alternator - 165amp Idle / 260amp higher rpm ---------- Option 2: Big 3 Stock Alt - new, but stock. XS Power D3100 Battery --------- Option 3: Big 3 Stock Alt 2 HC1800 Batts ------------------------------------------------------ Amp would probably be GP3000D running to 2 15" MTX 9500s. Or could I do a HO Alt - which is going to be $500 for the one i'm looking at, and maybe an optima yellow up front? Any help appreciated.

I have a 93 civic with a 70 amp alternator. Right now the alternator is producing too much voltage( up to 20 volts) I suspect that my 900 watts rms stereo system(mtx tc 4001 front chan. @ 4 ohms rear chan. @ 2 ohms, mtx mxa6001 A 2ohms) is to blame. So I decided to get a HO alternator, but the closest guy that does it is in brampton a few hours drive. After doing some homework I found out that added a second isolated battery may provide better protection. Does anybody have any advice, pros or cons and what would you do? HO aternator, Second battery or both? I have already upgraded my battery and wireing for those who will ask.

In the market for one. so far have looked into db, irragi, cbr electronics, nations, mechman, and just recently spring hill. I've heard of people having issues with mechman and irragi but after doing some reading there could be other reasons why their units failed. Any input on any of these? right now I'm leaning more towards spring hill autoelectric simply because they offer more options for upgrading ie i can order just the parts i need and upgrade the alternator myself and save $100+ that and their customer service has been very responsive about answering my thousand questions. even on the weekend which i thought odd... Anyone have any dealings with them either??

my stock alt just went bad and i need a ho alt. i need some opinions. i have a 2000 gmc jimmy.

Ok, I hear a lot of people saying that it is a good thing to run HO alts. and deep cycles together. I have also heard that it is a big no-no because a HO alt. will charge it quickly and they are supposed to be charged slowly...hence shortening the life of your deep cycle. Anyone have some input??

Hy, (excuse my bad english) what do you know about Hollywood Energetic(link), it is a replacement for Stinger SPV, I also heard Hollywood is a mix of Stinger and Kinetik, but I don`t really know if this is true... So, 1. Hollywood SPV 70 vs Power Cell 2050 (300 vs 330 euro); Hollywood: 70 Ah Nom. Capacity, Cold Cranking 900 A, Pulse Cranking 1700A, Short Circuit 3500 A Power Cell: 56Ah, 2050 Peak, 3500 A (SC) 2. Hollywood SPV 100 vs Power Cell 3000 (400 vs 390 euro) Hollywood: 100 Ah Nom.Capacity, Cold Cranking 1200A, Pulse Cranking 2250A, Short Circuit 4500 A Power Cell: 95Ah, 3000 Peak, 4400 A (SC) offtopic: 80Ah stock alt,BIG3 coming soon with: us amps xt4000.1(120A…

http://www.cardomain.com/item/ULTDD11300SB

http://www.woot.com/woot_detail.aspx I ordered two. Even if I don't use one / don't like it ... I'll still make a profit selling it. Seems like a heck of a deal to me, though.

i've seen the outside, but never the inside looks like something out of a science fiction movie

ok well i dont know if this is exactly where im supposed to put this topic, so correct me if i'm wrong. I'm looking to start making some stuff for my dorm room next year, and i was wondering, what some good brands of amplifiers that are out today in the home audio spectrum. i mean power amplifiers, for subs and such, and also some other good 4-8 channel amplifiers for speakers. I assume i can just use a home theater receiver for the speakers and such, but as for the power amplifiers, im lost thus far. What are some brands that you all like, that y'all recommend. ive been looking at some Crown, but i dont know. My dad has meridian, but thats out of my price range for s…

First question, Im thinking about making my own D-Block out of some bolts and nuts and what not, I have a run of 4 gauge from the battery, is it necessary to step down from 4 gauge to 8 gauge leaving the D-Block? The runs after the block are a foot at the most. Second question, what fusing should I use at the D-Block? I know 150 amp is recommended for 4 gauge but idk if theres a difference if its being distributed.

i have a 2002 honda accord 4cyl and would like to buy a high output alt. any suggestions???

well i have a amp (cactus 5kw) and it has four speaker terminals and im trying to hook up a 2ohm load to it. my question is if i hook 2ohms up to it will it be 2ohms or would it bridge it down to 1ohm?????? thanks

ight whats up guys. so im gearing up for slamology this weekend and want my aq3500 and hccas to be at the top of there game lol. so i did some trading around with some stuff i had and i picked up 2 new C&D ups12-270fr (75ah a piece) deep cycle batteris. now i also got a nice spool of xs 0 gauge flex and am doing a second run of 0 gauge to the back. so my quesion's are ... 1. when i have two runs of 0 gauge to the back and hook up the batteries, do i put both runs of 0 gauge to one batteru and them connect that battery to the other, or should i put one run of wire to each battery? 2. i have 1 fuse from my alt. to my battery, and one fuse on each run of 0 gauge to the r…

Hooking up a second battery is something I've never done. Do I run a wire from the starter battery to the secondary battery. Or do i run a wire from my alternator to the secondary battery. What kind of fuse do I use? More than 1 on each end? Thanks

Alright I just want to clear this up so I don't fry an amp. Here is how I will have my set up wired. What do I disconnect just the front battery negative? Or what? And do I take out all the fuses then plug in the postive to the amp and THEN negative ? I just want to make sure

im running a pioneer AVP3100 dvd and my question is im trying to hook up a toggle switch to the picture wire the from the HU ( supposed to be hooked up to the E brake) so i can see dvds while trying on trips and i hooked it up to toggle switch+ and ground the other side to chassis but it wont work... and it worked when it was in my other car 3 weeks ago. its not the same toggle switch that i had before. its a little smaller but still the regular old easy toggle switchon/off switch , + / - wire leads)... anybody know why it wouldnt work?? could it be the toggle switch?? or would anybody else know how to wire that up so it will play dvds? thatnks in advance

I have a Dual 2 ohm sub 1500 wRMS.. so it can be wired at 1 ohm or 4 ohms. I have two 1 ohm stable Autotek 1400s.. They can be linked using the MXL-100 but then I can only put a 2 ohm load on the "strapped" amp set up.. so if I run the sub on the strapped setup at with the sub at 4 ohms ill only be getting 1400 watts. Which is what I would get if I run a single amp on the sub at . Think I could run a amp to each coil if I set the outputs of the amps with a DMM? Would this cause problems? Thus giving me 1000 watts per coil and 2000 watts for the sub all together..