Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a aouple of rattles left to get out of my car. I bought some 60 mil dynamat type sound deadener off ebay. one of the last rattles I have is the heat deflector that is mounted 2 1/2" away from my muffler. it probably doesn't get near as hot as the muffler, but I want to get some feedback on it before I put any on the top of the deflector. does anyone know how much heat these deadeners can take safely. Should I put the deadener on the deflector? any advice would be appreciated. thanks Josh

I currently have a 90 amp alternator, im not sure if i should purchase a HO alternator (150 amps). During the week i will be doing the big 3 upgrade along with purchasing a new baterry. The battery im getting is a Deka Intimidator AGM battery: Group Size 78 Warranty 72 Month Chemistry AGM Cold Cranking Amps 740 Cranking Amps 850 Reserve Capacity 120 Amp Hour Rate 55 The sound system im going to be adding is 2 12 Fi BLs and a hifonoics Brutus BRZ2100.1D. So, do i stay stock or go to HO alt, moneys tight so id only get the new alt if its absolutely necessary.

Round about where is the 30hz mark on the SSF adjustment?And the 80hz mark on the LPF

It was called the Manhattan... It was 5 feet long & it required cooling lines. It was featured back in the day as a new product feature in a car audio magazine (early 90's?).

I have a RF T1500-1BDCP that once it is powered up its thermal light is lit very dim. The amp still delivers sound (and tons of it) and the protect light does not come on. It does this once the amp has power ground and accessory wires connected and radio is turned on. The system has runs of 0gauge KunKoncepts (+ and -), big 3 0gauge, optimum red top up front. Alt is 110 amp soon to be upgraded. I tested the wiring with an old P300-1 and it didn't have the thermal light show. I checked ground, and voltage and both were good. Anybody ever seen this happen? Even though the rest of the system wasn't connected yet it is pushing 1 FI BL 10" (fully loaded) running at 2 ohm. let …

I'm looking at possibly running three 4 ohm subs, which would give me a 1.34 ohm load (of course, you all know this already ). How much power would I lose if using an amp that does its power at 1 ohm?

I'm looking for an amplifier that can push 3 HX2 12" Punch 4 ohm 1000 watts a piece. I have 3 amplifiers in mind and would like your advice on which one you would recommend for best quality performance. 1) PPI DCX 1500.1 Mono 2)Hifonics 1800D Mono or 3)Hifonics Generation XX Hercules 2000 Mono.

hi guys i been helping my little cousin his 15 years old and he has 2 cvr 12's d2 which are great for the buck. since he has them with a 4 channel amp roughly giving them 100 to 150 rms each, he says he wants a better amp for them and that four channel amp could place it for door speaker. he drives a sentra i think is an 01 or 02 not really sure the box he has is 1.5cf prefab box tune to 35 or 45hz not sure which one is. he has a budget of maximum 200 bucks for an amp i was thinking of a 1200 hifonics but too many bad things about them then there is a quantium amp of 1000 rms both of those amps are in the same prize range of 180 but maybe you gu…

Trying to figure out what size alternator I'm going to need and how many batteries I'll need. I'm figuring at least a 250 amp alt and 2 D3100 powermasters, plus a yellow top under the hood. Will be running a Clif Designs 4800.1lx and probably a Sundown 100.2 or 125.2. Is there a way to calculate what I'll need or is this all a guessing game?

i am looking to buy an amp and im kind of undecided on what i want. right now im leaning towards a sundown 2000 but i need to know if anyone has ran one at 1/2 ohm because i need atleast 2000 watts rms @ 1/2 ohm or 2 ohm

So lastnight I installed a digital volt meter in my dash, and today I noticed that when starting the car it reads around 14.5v, when not running it reads around 12.8v...However driving around a bit I see my voltage drop down to around 12.8v, not staying at 14.5v, even if I'm not pushing my subwoofers... Is this normal? I assume it has something to do with the alternator?

I'm going to purchase two 12 inch RL-p soundsplinter subs and need an amp to run them. They will be going in a sealed box. So far I am considering these 3 choices: HiFonics BX 1500 D - $279.00 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=13121 Orion 1200D (refurbished) - $265.00 http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2167 Elemental Designs NINe.1 - $275 (b-stock) http://www.edesignaudio.com/nine1_overview.htm The prices are so close that they are not a factor. I have no experience with these amps and looking for a little input or opinions. If you have any other suggestionsin this price range, I'd like to hear them Thanks

i wonder if it will be ok with a 1.3 ohm load... a friend wants me to put three single 4 pr12's in his x-cab ranger, he already has the mtx....so what do ya think?? 1.3 close enuff to 2 ohm to be alright?? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

I just wanted to post this to see what some people are using. I didn't want to do a poll or anything because this could vary. I'm currently using some Streetwire Z2 series in the truck. They seem to do the job. I'm thinking I may replace them with something else in the future. So tell me what you've got. Thanks

Ok i know the yellow top is for audio and stuff but some ppl tell me that the blue top is better...some one fill me in on this stuff

Is MA Audio any good? I think they are but haven't heard any myself. Thanks a lot.

Hey, im just curious what a good amp would be to use for a pair of Jl's 10W3v3?

Does anyone know where I can find one or something like it?

The other day I was just minding my own business, coming home from work, and all of a sudden my car's mids and highs just stop, and my car fills with smoke. Now I'm out a four channel, and the outputs on my deck burnt up, so I JUST have bass to listen to for the time being. :l Anyways, I just need a two channel to run my Type R 6.5 components up front, so they can keep up with my fifteens Previous products that you have used: Blaupunkt 470 is the only Fourchannel I've ever used. Budgetary constraints: Somewhere around $400 max. Vehicle which the equipment will be used in: 2001 Jetta, only powering one set of components. Musical preferences: Dubstep and Rap. System goals:…

I am looking into a brutus brz2400.1 and a brutus bxi2608. What are the differences in these two amps?

recommendations needed for an amp the plan currently is to run incriminator audio comps up front and a dcon 15 dual 4 in a ported box in the back now Id prefer to only have to run one amp and to slightly over power the dcon so what 4 channel amps do you think would be worth it to bridge the rear channels or are there any great 3 channels or even 5 channels since I could hook the rear channel on a 5 channel to my drop down tailgate speakers Thanks guys

What are some good 16v batts I can get to run my soundstream xxx10000 off of(10,000w rms @ 1 ohm, wanna get the most I can outta this amp...and that rating is at 16v...)? I know a guy selling 4 turbostart s16va's for 400 shipped, and he said he installed them but never used them, so they're basically like new. What other brands are out there? Interstate? Powermaster? Kinetic? Should I get a bunch of 8v's and wire them to make 16v? Also if I do buy those 4 turbostarts, will that be enough for my amp, or will I need more? This will be for daily use and I'm gonna run a seperate alt to charge them, I don't want the little regulator thing to switch from 12 to 16... Thanks in …

alright so i just received my xs power d3100 battery... now how am i supposed to connect 4 1/0 gauge wires to it ??? do they make special terminals that hold 4 1/0 gauge wires or do i have to make my own ??

hi im new here dont know much bout car audio but was wondering what u all thought bout the SAX-100.2 amplifier

i want one of these amps for a fi btl 15. which would be more reliable and push out more true rms watts? are there any other amps that would be good for a btl in the range of $300-$400? thanks