Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Im purchasing some 10 Dcon's soon. And was wondering which amp would be good to run 2 of them.

Which amps (beside JL's Slash series) have auto turn-on feature???

i just thought about it, is 500watts woth 50bux? the bx is only 235$ and the PA is 299$ diffrence is about 500watts giv or take. which one? or just found it the Viper D2500.1 for 355$

I'm looking at this dual headunit and I was wondering if it is a good choice, its only 17RMS but I dont really care I just want to make sure it won't blow up I plan to get a amp for my speakers soon so 17RMS is fine right now. I already have a after market head unit in my car will I need the wire and harness still??? this is what I'm looking at: http://cgi.ebay.com/DUAL-XDM7610-CD-MP3-AM...1QQcmdZViewItem

Has anyone tried there high output alternators or have opinions about them?

Here's my head unit specs: 5v peak/ 2v RMS RCA output on all channels 100 ohm low impedance pre-amp outputs bass frequency adjustment - 60, 80, 100, 130, 150 and 200hz bass q factor - 1, 1.25, 1.5, and 2 treble frequency adjustment - 10, 12.5, 15, and 17khz sub x-over - 80, 120, and 160hz sub phase - 0 - 180 sub level - variable looking at the Audiocontrol Matrix, running two US Amps.

http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?14&pid=149 i wanted to experiment with my stock system and this sounded like a cool adapter to use with an aftermarket HU. How does it work? does it somehow bypass the HU's internal amp?

Okay, let me start off by saying I've installed a countless number of CD players in cars. This is the first one I've had trouble with, and also my first Pioneer. I bought an 880 off of ebay a while back for about $200. I initially installed it in Octoberish. It would work fine when I normally had the car running, but when I switched my lights on it would cut in and out every second. I attributed this to a couple of wires being switched. (The first wiring diagram I had was wrong.) Well I eventually got this fixed by switching the two wrong wires. My CD player would now work with lights on and off. However, when I would switch from on to off my CD player would cut o…

the minimum i would want voltage to drop is 14.5! i am planning on getting a 250a alternator and 3 of these Batteries my amp is going to be a Crunch GP3000D-Pro running 4 18"Fi SSD stock! any info would be appreciated thanks in advance

Greetings Folks, I was in to mobile audio around year 2000. Back then the Big Box Brands like you found at Best Buy were OK but the high end companies had a significant boost in performance. Lower noise floors, met rated power output, better thermal management, and cleaner sound. Today I see that the mainstream companies products pricing has DROPPED dramatically. I wonder if quality has suffered as well. Let me give an example... Sounstream 15 years ago was a high end company that made top shelf products. Today they are owned my the corporate overlords and have mainstream products. This amp caught my attention for price, performance, and looks. …

I'm in the process of trying to decide between these 2 amps : MTX TE1501D Elite $339 USAMPS MD-2D $319 The car will be a daily driver. The subwoofer will be : RE AUDIO 15" SEX -or- RE AUDIO 15" SX I've heard the MD-2D isnt very clean, but I do love USAMPS from my expierence in the past they are GREAT amps, but for my pricerange these are the 2 amps im looking at. I have no expierence with MTX, so I ask you what is a better amp? What are the Pros and Cons of both. Also would a MD-2N be overkill for a 15" RE SXX? Would an MD-1DN do the job?

Anyone from europe have any experience with these batteries? Namely a brand called "hollywood" their SPV line seems decent for what i need it for. I thought for sure this forum had 1or2 guys from europe. I could be wrong though. Anywho its time for me to upgrade. My stock wet cell battery is going on 4 years in 2014 and i want to switch it out before it dies on me. The SPV35 and SPV45 are the models im looking at heres the specs. I can get these pretty decent price off ebay and ive seen them in person at the local car audio store here where im stationed and they look decent. SPV35 35 AH 440CCA 1000 pulse cranking amps Short circuit-2000 amps SPV45 45AH 660CCA 1200 pulse…

What is the best and easiest way to get get 16v to your amps in a daily driver? Do you need a seperate regulator for your alternator? What about the MLA Module, anyone ever used it and how well does it work?

Im getting a 12" FI Q with the cooling package. It will be put into a 2.5 cu ft. box tuned to 31-33hz (cant deside yet). But I really want to know a good amp to power it with that will not kill my wallet or my electrical in my car. Iv got stock alt and bat with a big 3 upgrade and a 5 farad cap. Also I DO NOT plan on running at 1 ohm b/c i want good SQ. Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks

I have 2 FI BL 12's hooked up to a Hifonics 2500, running at 1ohm. They seem to max out with my stock electrical (granted i have the big 3 and 2 yellowtops in the back) Am i getting the full power out of the amp? I hooked the subs to my buddies car who is running full electrical and 3500 rms and it was insanely louder. What can i do to get more towards his level or atleast max out my amp to give the full 2500 rms to these subs...

So today i received a nice new 220amp DB electrical alternator since my stocker finally fell victim to the 3500D. After a 5 hour install process which is considered fast on a mazda tribute........ i start the car up and hear a big old grinding noise coming from it. Needless to say i am highly pissed at the situation and they best have a new one at my dorr very quick. Anyone else had experience with them? I herd alot of good things and for the price its not bad at all. Anyways expect a new video with 4 agms and a new alt soon if i ever get it fixed..... should be a good little gain.

hope i like it!

okay i have 2 mtx ta81001 amps straped....@ 4ohms it does 2000 rms .... because i have a D2 btl that is the only safe way i can run it..... my friend has an orion 2500d the silver one with the endcaps..... should i sell my amps and get his...i have meterd with my current setup and did 140.4 on the tl there is a comp this weekend and they are gonna use an ac mic... now i was planing on dropping the sub to one ohm for the burp....but i know that its not safe as those amps arent half ohm stable....should i get his amp? plus an advantage to having his is less headache dealing with one amp...... here are the specs im looking @ 2500d 2500rms @1ohm 81001 1500rms@1ohm x2 = not s…

do you think that a kicker kx600.4 amp will work for a pair of 12 cvrs. do you think it will sound good. thx

Any body ever run this head unit? Looks to be pretty nice for the price. This might be the one i use. Any opions would be greatly appreciated here's a link http://mobile.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=...d=54&page=3

Ok i have a bad clippin problem. I think its my rcas because they have always sucked. What are.some good rcas i can get. i dont care about price. And what some good speaker wire i can get i have scoche 12 gauge power wire which i do NOT trust. And im having bad voltage.drop im running stock electrical with 1 gauge welding wire.

right now i have a cheap h/u in. i am willing to spend about $400 for a h/u. who makes the best h/u for basic sub setups.

Amplifiers | 01 | 02 |ELEMENT-5 5209315ELP-5001D 1 Ohms Max Power: 5000w x 1 2 Ohm Max Power: 3000w x 1 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1400w x 1 2 Ohm RMS Power: 2000w x 1 1 Ohm RMS Power: 2600w x 1 S/N Ratio: 90dB THD: 0.08% Channel Separation: 60dB Frequency Response: 15Hz-400Hz Low Pass Frequency: 35Hz-250Hz Bass Boost Control: 45Hz (0-18dB) Phase Shift: 0-180? Amplifiers ELEMENT-5 5209315ELP-5001D 1 Ohms Max Power: 5000w x 1 2 Ohm Max Power: 3000w x 1 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1400w x 1 2 Ohm RMS Power: 2000w x 1 1 Ohm RMS Power: 2600w x 1 S/N Ratio: 90dB THD: 0.08% Channel Separation: 60dB Frequency Response: 15Hz-400Hz Low Pass Frequency: 35Hz-250Hz Bass Boost Control: 45Hz (0-18dB)…

a friend sold his rf power 800.2 to another friend. this is the same 800.2 that we used to run a pair of 15" id spl's at 4 ohm stereo (the subs were dual 2) and it beat the hell outa them... now the new owner says the amp is smoked..literally...yet when i pulled the case, there was no smoke/fire damage..hell, not even a hint of overheating really. the new owner is running 2 subs, one a he2 that is dual 4, one a boston that is a single 4. he runs everything parallel and bridged...this totals a 1.3 ohm load, correct? i say that the amp is just going into protect...i mean it is just 4 ohm stable bridged, correct? he says i'm full of shit and that the amp is messed up. we hav…

i just found out this sub has a subsonic filter set with chips tuned at certain frequencies. i dont know what mine is but apparently it's affecting my lowend responce from my subs. an installer told me spl competitors use these chips to keep from blowing their subs when usu=ing ported encloseurs. he said my amps sounds like the filter is set at 40hz-nedds to be set at 25hz. i listen to mostly metal but i like the ability to get low with certain synthetic beats(808). im using a dqx as my sound processor- i have my pmf set at 20 and my mid/low at 90 i just cant think of anything else to cure my lowend blues. im using 2 idq12's in a sealed 1.8 cubic box in the back of a 2003…