Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Well today my 5th generation ipod video decided it was going to take a chit. something involving the drive broke off and they want $150 to fix it. I have virtually no cds anymore so this is a very bad thing. I have a 16gb flash drive, and am looking for a Head Unit that has a usb connection so I can try to use this for music. I have never owned one with a usb connection, and am trying to find a quality yet inexpensive H/U that will serve this purpose. Also wondering if JVC makes any H/U's worth buying that do this?

Im looking to get one battery once i pick up my new car, i was reading some threads about the YT sucking after 1 year or so, i will be running a Hercules(2000x1) What would you guys recommend?

i have a kenwood h.u. that ive had for about 2 years not sure the model name(can get if needed) but it has the 2 preouts in back and usb and aux in the front. I was playing my ipod yesterday and all of a sudden it just stopped , so i unplugged it and tried it again and all it says is reading . i have tried both my ipods and that is not the problem, the aux works fine . any suggestions on how or what i can do to fix it?

i have two batteries and i have a fosgate 1500x1 i was wondering that if i ran just the two batteries would i be fine for a couple of months?

So I hooked back up my amplifier today and when I turned the headunit on and played some music I realized that no bass was coming from my subwoofer and my amp was in protect mode. I also noticed that my lights would flicker and dim and why voltage dropped to like 12 volts. Any suggestions to what the problem may be?

alright so i just received my xs power d3100 battery... now how am i supposed to connect 4 1/0 gauge wires to it ??? do they make special terminals that hold 4 1/0 gauge wires or do i have to make my own ??

what is the pre amp voltage in deck do? what would be the difference between getting a 4 volt pre amp deck and a 5 volt pre amp?

Would i need a 4 channel RCA to run 2 amps and 2 subs?

So i installed the radio about 2-3 months ago now and have loved everything about it. then, on December 29th i was driving downtown and my faceplate died. I still had music but i had no control over anything. Volume didn't work, seek, station change, cd eject, AND the remote didn't do shit either. Ok, so it went a week with no problem so i figured nothing was wrong. then friday night i was going to listen to the Zcon that TeamRamRod has and it did it again to me. i pulled over, turned my truck off, and opened the door to cut power to my radio. turned truck on and it worked. Saturday, i drove to east lansing to see my girlfriend. Turned truck off, went into her apartment t…

Basically, I am contemplating the carputer idea heavily and will be looking for ideas as far as EQing and setting the system up. I want it headunitless, so an external unit is needed. Is there something out that has all the features of an active type of headunit? (think TA etc...) Any ideas post them up, the carputer is only in the early stages but I will be putting everything together in pieces. Help me out here

i have 2 batteries up front right now and plan to add some more wattage to my system. i am thinking of building a bracket ot hold a dedicated alt for 3 AGM's in the back and run 2 lead acid up front for the rest of the vehicle. however i wounder if this is necessary, is there a way to have 3 batteries in back and 2 in front with a single alt and have it setup for the stereo to only pull power from the rear battery bank and have no voltage drop/draw from the front 2 batteries for the rest of the car? i was thinking the only way to eliminate voltage drop to the factory electronics was to get a dedicated alternator and battery bank but i thought id ask here before installing…

Well guys---I read alot of forums and it looks as though ALOT of people are misinformed about the "basics" of car audio----I need your help----tell me a topic in which we can all give our input and see if we can come to learn more-----I personally am sick of seeing these "which sub or which amp" topics----it is called "learn then deside for yourself". I will talk in depth about all of the topics you want but I need a start----you guys from FXN.net know me pretty well to know I can talk for days about car audio. for the guys that don't know me---- http://www.fordexplorer.net/viewforum.php?f=10 Alot of the stickys are mine. Read and enjoy. Live and LEARN, Dave

I have an older(99-01timefame) lil wonder 4 that I have misplaced the crossover/filter sip chips for. Does anyone know if they are an electronics supply house item or will I need to contact Soundstream to replace them?

I have a Mustang which equals no trunk. I have 2 Audiofonic 12s in a ported box in my backseat. They are rated at 1200W max but we all know thats a lie. I am looking for a mono amp to power these until I find a 15 that will fit in the trunk. I have looked at kenwood KAC-X1R, hifonics 1608d, and a few others. My budget it 300 max. Thanks for the help.

I would like to know what makes a alternaor company good verses a crappy one? What makes it charge at 14.4, what determines amps at idle, etc etc. etc.? Basically the innerworkings of a alternator. Would a rebuild kit be better?

with christmas coming up and me "getting" some polk audio speakers for my tahoe as a gift, what should i get myself?(lol) i am torn between the pioneer and the jvc(i'd probably be getting them off of sonicelectronix) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19739_Pioneer+AVIC-X910BT.html $699 + already has bluetooth - would need to get the steering wheel controls($70) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12317_JVC+KW-NX7000.html $709 + large sexy screen + remote control + garmin nav - bluetooth would be an additional $70 the boot-up times dont seem to be an issue, since from reading they both start audio upon ignition, it would just be the nav that takes a while i want either …

I currently have a 90 amp alternator, im not sure if i should purchase a HO alternator (150 amps). During the week i will be doing the big 3 upgrade along with purchasing a new baterry. The battery im getting is a Deka Intimidator AGM battery: Group Size 78 Warranty 72 Month Chemistry AGM Cold Cranking Amps 740 Cranking Amps 850 Reserve Capacity 120 Amp Hour Rate 55 The sound system im going to be adding is 2 12 Fi BLs and a hifonoics Brutus BRZ2100.1D. So, do i stay stock or go to HO alt, moneys tight so id only get the new alt if its absolutely necessary.

I'm about to order an XS Power D925 for the second battery in my suv. I have a bigger battery upfront i got from o'reilly's. It's not a deep cell but it's about the biggest I could get with out spending a ton cuz i was on a budget. Now my question is should i buy a different battery for upfront? My goals are just to get my voltage to stay at a constant voltage. My amp draws around 1500 rms and when i upgrade will probably be in the 1700-2000 rms range. What do you guys think?

Ok so I have done the Big 3. Have a jeep grand cherokee. Found out the alt stock is 110amps. I am running a 100.4 amp and an alpine mrd1005d. Looking to get a deep cycle battery up front and a bigger alt. Battery i have up there now is 11 long and 7.5 wide. I looked at the battery basket and measured 13 long. I was thinking a powermaster d3100 up front. Just am trying to brainstorm some ideas and figure out a few different product choices. Also the Sea tweeters sound very nice. Barely need any power to get loud which really surprised me. Almost got those Excel mids dialed in and the midrange clarity is def worth it.

So I in the market in buying a 4 channel amp I need about 100 rms per channel going cheap on the amp crunch or MB quart. But my question was if i buy the amp i can use 2 channels for my front stage and can I leave the other 2 for a sub? And most amps are only bridgeable at 4 ohms so this means it is 20 ohms each channel? And my sub is a 4 ohm DVC so if i wire it 2 2ohms it going to be at 1 ohm? So what I'm saying is will I be able to run a front stage and a sub together?

I'm getting high pitch hum (upper midrange freq) and a warble sound coming from the sub when everything is on. 1. Amp is a Zed Mini 2. front stage amp is a sundown 100.4 3. Sven LOC for the stock H/U The high pitch hiss comes on when the amps turn on. I don't get any distortion from the speaker run by the sundown. When I turn the music up, the sub still has the high pitch noise and a warble sound that kinda goes with the music. I've check the RCA and have used two different sets to make sure. I even connected another sub to the system and get the same horrible distortion. Is this an amp problem or is there something wrong with the electrical system trying to run this amp …

Ok so i noticed yesterday that my radio would cut out at high volume so i went to the truck looked at the wires and erething seemed coo, I hop back in and it wrlks so i start driving and it does it again... So i justy turn it off and say i'll deal wt it later, so today i get the test light out and go under the hood, and DAAAMMM, my fuse holder was melted and it had started to melt into my finder well.. But the fuse never blew, and basiccly it was only on the side before the fuse. IT was molting i mean the gold was melted off it looked bad i would take pics but its uggly.. Why did this happen? I've seen it happen on amplifiers wt plastic coatings around the batt terminal,…

i plan on doing some competing in dbdrag next year and i wanted to hear any experiences any of you have had with this amp. al

Okay, I REALLY didn't plan it this way but I'm thinking about taking advantage of my new found surplus of amps. The reason for my dilemma is two fold. First off I decided to buy the IA 6.4 from Ohjay to power the SLS 8's in my Jimmy when I finally get to installing them. So I eventually plan on installing it anyway which brings me to the other side of the coin. This weekend I ran into some issues with the SAX-125.2 running as it should. First off I've noticed lately that the midbass is great some days and others it simply feels weaker than it should. I was attributing that mostly to my imagination and some psycho acoustics. Then this weekend after running the syst…

I need some input from anybody that might know, I purchased an aftermarket alternator for my 2009 dodge ram 5.7. I sold the truck and now I have a 2012 dodge ram 5.7. My question for anyone who knows is; will the electrical system of the new ram (2012) handle the aperage and extra voltage (300 amps @ 15.3 volts) ? Also, I got the self excite module to boost voltage to 15.3 volts. This will be the only alternator in the truck. Thanks for any help!