Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I am looking for an amp between 150-200RMS x 2 at 4ohms for CDT ef-61 components. I am looking to spend under $200. Which of the following would you recomend? I am open to other recomendations. Thanks for the help. Power Acoustik OV2-820 http://www.poweracoustik.com/gothicseries.html 4 Ohm RMS: 180 x 2 Watts Kenwood KAC-7252 170W X 2 RMS (4 Ohms, <1% THD+N) MA AUDIO HK798 http://www.maaudio.com/productview.cfm?pid=2369228 2 x 200W RMS @ 4 Ohm Profile AP1200 http://www.profileusa.com/products_amps_ap.cfm RMS Output Power(4 Ohms)-200 Watts x 2

I have a pair of Alpine Type-R's dual 4 ohm version. I currently have them parallel to a 2 ohm load at the amp. I fear as though my amp sucks (i know this for a fact its a Volfenhag). My question to the amp gurus is what amp i should use for the pair. I could always parallel the remaining wires to a 1 ohm load to a mono block. Wondering what kind of amp would be the best. Power Handling * Power Range: 200 - 500 Watts * RMS Power Handling: 500 Watts * Peak Power Handling: 1500 Watts Dimensions * Mounting Depth: 195 mm (7.7'') * Mounting Diameter: 275 mm (10.9'') * Displacement: 0.071 cu. ft (Front Mount) * Added Volume: 0.085 cu. ft. (Rev…

So I inherited this situation but I'm too deep now to give up. From what I understand, there was one `1200 watt audio pipe hooked up in dudes car. He blew that one. Then he put 2 more in and blew both of them immediately I believe. Seems like a short somewhere in his vehicle to me but I'm no expert. So I went through and tested all the transistors and found multiple output mosfetts to be blown on all 3 amps. I pieced enough "good" irf640 mosfetts together to hopefully make a working unit but I have a short someoene because It bounces bavck from protesct to power. Can anyone help me with this?I have more hours in troubleshooting these things than I care to admit. …

Currently my setup is as follows: Acura RSX HU: Alpine IVA-W200 Front: Focal Utopia 6.5" and tweets Rear: Focal Polyglass 6.5" Highs Amp: JL 450/4 Subs: 2 Fi Q12" Sub Amp: RF T20001BD I've never tried hooking up 3 sets of components in a vehicle before as I normally have enough with two sets. I was thinking of putting some kick panels in and using the Focal K2 5.25" components I have sitting in my closet. Is there any way I could hook this up without another amp? If not possible, think I would be ok just removing my rear fill and using that channel on the amp for the K2's? Or would that be like too much just coming from the front and only bass in the back...I don't kn…

has anyone had a remote that went on and off, i checked the voltage from the wire that comes directly out of the deck and it goes on and off intermittently. the deck is very old and seen a lot of abuse, my question is can i splice my remote wire with another to achieve the same effect or am i stuck buying a new headunit, i guess i could run a wire from some 12v source and throw a switch in between but that's a hassle.

i have 4 cvrs in two boxes they are wired in the box and are ready to be hook up just need help hooking all four to mono amp.

Hi guys, I found very good prices on these 2 amplifiers on Audiosavings. They're cheap (less than $450) and claim to be powerful. I am surprised by the fuse rating on both of them : they need 130 or 150 amp fuse only for +2000 watts. My current amp, a Sundown saz 1500 needs a 150 amp fuse. I know Cadence and US Amps are well known brands. How can that be ? Are their ratings legit, or are they overated ? I still want for my BTL N2. I will upgrade the electrical after I get the amplifier. I will add or change battery for an AGM one (probably an Optima Yellowtop) later. what do you think about these 2 amps ? zrs c1 and md3 ?

holy crap they are making a monster too http://www.kicker.com/ShowPage.cfm?filenam...tml&menu=KXAMPS

Hi. I'm looking into head units and came across a Pioneer MVH-P8200...I noticed in the specs it states 2v output, is this too low? I'm planning on running a sax-125.2 and 1 or 2 sae-1200dv2 (eventually just one more powerful amp). How would this affect power output at the amps and gain settings? Thanks.

first off is it better to stick w/ the same brand when dealin w/ amps for a system? i plan on purchasing the pioneer premier ts-c720prs comps powered by the zed audio gladius burr brown. i have a 10w7 (for testing purposes) and my friend says if i go w/ the gladius for comps i should get another zed for the sub. so now im thinkin bout doin two ppi art series amps thx in advance

Hey all I am new here and semi-new hooking up car stereo... that being said I need some help hooking up my new Sundown 1000d the manual says for 1-4 ohm 1 speaker configs to use both positive and then runs a neg line fom the woofer towards the amp... notice i said towards... the positive leands stop on the positive terminals of the amp but the negative lead routes toward the amp and then stops.... Im a newb I know but Id rather ask how then to tell you how I burnt my truck down or fried my brand new amp!! thanks in advance.

Is it possible that the 900 d can out do the memphis amp? Thinking about going all powerbass. Switched from my f-150 to a xterra. 3db jump to a 144.5. Hoping to get better going with all powerbass. Thanks

Im planning on having a 2,000 watt rms amp (hifonics) hooked up in my 95 lexus es300. Im also thinking of a new battery. is optima a better battery than kinetik? or are they two different types of batts? sorry if this is a newbie question...lol.

Just got my system hooked up today but I have a very annoying whine or hum in the speakers. Its there with the truck running or not, but worse when it is running. I think from reading that this is a ground problem, but I have moved the amplifier ground to a few different places inside the cab of the truck, seat belt, seat mount bolt, I cant get rid of it. Can anyone help?

i JUST GOT MY AMP TODAY. i HAD A QUESTION. I WAS EXPECTIN THE REMOTE THAT COMES WITH WAS SUPPOSE TO BE A GAIN CONTROL. wELL ON THE KNOB IT SAYS "BASS CONTROL" AND I WENT ON AUDIOQUE WEBSITE. I LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND I NOTICVE THAT MY AMP HAS ANOTHJER DIAL THAT SAYS BASS BOOST...... I JUST WONDERED WHEN THESE STARTED COMING OUT....

I'm looking into getting a new head unit, and I was wanting some suggestions.. I'm looking for something simple, but quality. I need ability to play MP3 CD's, Have an AUX input, and a USB port that will work with iPod or iPhone (not a major need though). I have an XO vision something or other 3" screen DVD player type head unit that I got from wal mart online for like 100$, and I'm just not impressed with the quality or controls. In order to do anything on the HU you have to use the remote control, which is extremely annoying. The built in EQ is pitiful too. I'm just looking for simple, and quality, with the features I stated above. My budget is about 250-300$. I don't ha…

Ive been looking at this amp to power my 2 12" 1ohm Fi Q's. I am on a budget and this amp looks good for the money. I was just wondering if anyone had any experience with this amp. I was looking at the Hifonics 2006d before this one, but i hear its terrible so im trying to go in a different direction. Thanks, Ben

I was wondering if anyone had an expeirence with the new ARC amps. I'm pretty sure its the KAR series its a mini amp. 125.2 or 125.4 and its like 8"x4"x2" or something like that. Its super small. And with 125 wrms x4 thats pretty bad ass for the size. Anyway just wondering http://www.arcaudio.com/productdescription...-125.2-mini.asp Wow my guess on the deminsions was pretty damn close.

i just installed my rf t8004 and rf t40001bd. For some reason the t40001bd is getting hot even when i have the sub off. I am getting engine noise in both my speakers and subs. Today I disconnected my pos terminal and then while I was driving my mids and highs went crazy on me. Out of no where they started cutting out and started crackling like they were blown and my right mid was blasting a low frequency like a sub even when i turned the music to 0. Now the right mid will only work on and off and now the left mid is doing the same thing. They are barely putting out any sound even at high volumes. Sometimes they will sound fine and loud and sometimes they put out nothing a…

Here's the thing, i was considering getting 2 - 12" older model p3s, 2ohm subwoofers, Power Handling (Watts RMS): 400 Watts RMS 800 Watts Max With this amp http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p1000x2 Rated Power (RMS Continuous Power): 300 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohm 500 Watts x 2 @ 2-Ohm wired with the 2ohm version If i can't find the older ones in 2ohm, i've come across the 4ohms, but wiring them would only deliver 300 watts, is this enough or do i have to get the 10"(which only require 300)? going in the trunk of a car, have 39" width and want to do less than 8" deep, ~16-18 high(considering leaving a spot on th…

I've been considering getting a new sub amp, mainly looking to switch to class D for the increased efficiency. I'm currently running a Rubicon 702 on my sub and a 100w amp on my highs, and my lights dim at night when driven hard. My final system will consist of about double that much power, so I'm looking to switch my sub amp to something more efficient since I don't want to do any electrical upgrades other than upgrade the battery. I'm looking for something that'll do ~700-800w into 4ohm, 1200w+ into 2ohm, and being 1ohm stable would be nice just to keep my sub options open in the future. Had my eye on a RF T10001bd since I've seen some pretty insanely high efficiency…

This will take over the duties of powering my front stage. The 2100-XXK that's in there right now is doing fine, but the Germaniums seems like it wants a bit more power....so a bit more power they shall get. The 2100-XXK rated at 100 x 2 @ 4 ohm, the 4150-XXK when bridged will do 320 x 2. (Don't think I'll send THAT much power to them though, but it's good to have some headroom) Not sure if I'm going to use this lil guy. If anything I'll just put it on the 1500-XXK that's powering my sub.

I just bought a couple of SA E10's with Dual 4ohm coils and they will be going in a sealed enclosure. What class D amp would you recommend for around $100? I prefer this route so there are no electrical issues with my son's older car. I also have the option of running some old school amps (Lanzar Opti 100-1ohm stable, Lanzar Plus 100-1/2 ohm stable, Lanzar 240-2 ohm stable) I don't like the idea of using my old amps because I don't want them stolen as they are not easily replaceable. Another option is a new Boston GT2200 or a GT2125. I can buy a new 2125 for under $100 but don't know if it will run these E10's well. the GT2200 is more than I want to spend for him and not…