Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hello all, my set up is pretty basic..kenwood radio and eq, kicker 1200 mono class d amp for my jl 13w7 and kenwood 100x4 interior amp. Also I have a optima red top under the hood and a stinger battery in the trunk all ran with 0 gauge from and I did the big 3. I still have the stock 100 amp alt which im replacing with a 180 amp and also, I never play my system with the car not running. Right now my lights dim and at night when I press the gas pedal my lights get brighter, so will the new alt stop that? And whats the highest that I should have the gain on my sub amp? Thanks in advance for any help

Currently I'm running off ALL stock electrical in my 99 Grand Am. I found an extra car battery in the garage the other day, and got to wondering. I know that deep cell batteries such as the optimas and kinetics are optimal, but would a regular crank battery help my electrical system out at all? It's not reccommended I know, but I have it and if it would help then I don't see why not until I do get a deep cell. Additional Info: Big 3 is NOT done yet. Running a 1000w Memphis Class D @ 1ohm 1 run of 1/0 power to a dist. block in the trunk with a run of 4g to the sub amp and a run of 8g to the mid/highs amp. Got the 1/0 ground from the amp to chassis Stock batt and alt

i was reading the .5 wiring thread a while ago and somethin hit me that i'm curious about. The opti2000d by lanzar is the only amp they have that is 0.5ohm stable The Saz-1500d\3000d "used to" have 0.5 ohm warranty coverage until... well anyways. The opti2000d is 0.5 stable all day every day. Is this the case with SAZ amps as well or are they just lenient on below 1 ohm stability? The opti is the only class d amp i know of that is guaranteed to be stable at 0.5 ohms, so curious about this.

My pioneer HU died the other day when I hit a pot hole and now I need to replace it with somthing better. I've been looking at the Nakamichi CD-300,400,and 500 and also the pioneer premier 800 and 880. I know the nak's don't have nearly the features of the pioneer, but I'd kinda like to try somthing different, and I like the simplicity. Do any of you have opinions or suggestions? I'd like to get the best sound quality out of my system without spending much. I've got CDT coaxials (which are awesome for what they are), and a pair of 15" kicker L5's pushed by a kenwood 600w cheap amp. I got the subs mostly because I was young and they look cool and got a good deal, just…

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Hifonics BXi1606D - 1600w RMS x 1 ohm U.S. Amps XT-4000D - 1500w RMS x 1 ohm both are close in price but the us amps is considered entry level and the hifonics isnt not sure what do you guys think? using them on 2 12" RE SEs at 1 ohm heres the data sheet on the hifonics theres nothing really similar for the XT though

Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

I'm considering buying a used Avionixx AXA440.4 for around $100. Any opinions? They're rated at 85x4 W RMS @ 4 ohm but are supposed to put out around 100W. Any info would be great.

Anyone used this charger? http://www.impactbattery.com/brands/japlar-schauer/12-volt/schauer-12-volt-battery-charger-jac1212.html is under 100$ looks pretty promising. cant find any reviews online though.

I am not going to be ready to buy for about 6 more months. I just don't have the expertise as to brands and availability for my particular application. I would like to see 140amps. Any direction is much appreciated. Thanks, Chris

I posted this on another site but maybe I can get advice here, I have a 4ch rockford P400-4 set to 2ch and using two alpine 4ohm 6.5's. Everything had been working fine but lately say I am driving to work for about five minutes then I turn on radio you can feel the car kind of shudder a bit then after awhile of the radio playing the amp goes into thermal protect. The gains are under a quarter turn from zero and made sure the ground is good. Any ideas?

I currently have a Hifonics BRE1700.1d, I have done the Big 3 to my car which is a 2010 Malibu. My voltage drops crazy fast from 14.6 to 11.6 when certain songs are playing. What I was wondering is if an XS power D1200 would be sufficient enough to use as my battery under the hood? Or should I got for the XS power D2400? I don't want to get a H/O alternator or a second battery for the trunk. Thank you

if so then how where they? of course as sundown site states the only place you should get them from is DB-r electronics i was just wondering if any one has ever tryed them and what was the condition of the amp if it was a refurb im just trying to see if i should go refurb and save some $$ that can be spent else where in the setup or should i just stick with buying the brand new amps

I just recently sent my subwoofer out to be repaired. I have 2 amps in my car 1 Boston for my speakers and 1 hifonics Brutus 1610 d class amp. I was playing music through my speakers but I didn't realize my Brutus RCA cables were still plugged in and it is getting power. Have I damaged my amp by playing music with no woofer hooked up the past few days?

I was driving to work and all the sound went off. So when I got to work I turned on the radio, went in the trunk and checked the amps for power and they were getting none. I am guessing that the problem is with the remote. If the remote on the head is in fact dead is there a way to fix it. Is it an easy thing, like maybe a trace on the circuit board? Or is it a big PITA? Could it be something else? What would make both amps suddenly stop getting power?

this weekend i worked on the car some. i installed my voltmeter, when i installed it it said "LO" figured cuz the car wasent on well i was working on it and the batt drained some. so i hooked up a charger and let it charge well i finnished wireing my active front stage and my sax100.4. when i was done i turned the car on and i had nothing playing at all. volt meter went up to 11volts, i drove around and the highest it goes is 11.4. i have the big 3 done. i have an optima g35 under the hood 720 cold cranking amps. when i stop at a red light it drops down back to "LO" witch is under 10 volts. i have an 06 envoy. when i was running my wires and installing everything i notice…

Well I finaly got to mesuring my cars voltage, and to my suprise, my dmm read 14.23 and this is all stock electrical without the big three. I got the voltage Through some cheepo 8 gauge from my most recent system. I wanted to know if this sounds good for a 1kw system. Thaw alternator is 95 amps and the batery is a die hard. I want some opinions if you guys think I may be able to run a aq 1200d whithout any major electrical upgrades. And I am doing the big three in 1/0 cable.

i JUST GOT MY AMP TODAY. i HAD A QUESTION. I WAS EXPECTIN THE REMOTE THAT COMES WITH WAS SUPPOSE TO BE A GAIN CONTROL. wELL ON THE KNOB IT SAYS "BASS CONTROL" AND I WENT ON AUDIOQUE WEBSITE. I LOOK AT THE PICTURES AND I NOTICVE THAT MY AMP HAS ANOTHJER DIAL THAT SAYS BASS BOOST...... I JUST WONDERED WHEN THESE STARTED COMING OUT....

I'll be running a SAZ 2500D and a SAX 100.4. The 2500 will be at 1 ohm and the 100.4 will be at 2 ohms. So that's roughly 3140 watts. I have about a 50 ah battery up front, will have a 100 ah battery in the back (deka intimidator 9A31), and I will have the big three. Will I need a high output alternator? I'm not sure what my alternator is rated for. I'm guessing its between 60-100 amps. I have a Chevy 1500 1990 4.3L V6 w/AC.

Im completely new to all of this..but I was wanting to put 2 12" Fi SSDs in a 2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer. But I don't know what options to get and what amp. I have about $600 to work with and still have to buy the subs, any help would be very appreciated

I have 2 runs of pos and neg wires from the front battery to the battery bank in the trunk. My question is would i benefit with going with 2 runs pos wires from the alt to the front battery? This is off a 270 xp alt which i currently have a single pos wire to the front battery.

I will try to post pics soon. The question is has anyone ever installed the big 3 on this model of a vehicle. 2009 Ford Explorer 4.6Lt? I have been looking at my electrical and there is ll kinds of run offs from the positive wire from battery. There are 2 that run from positive into the fuse box, and at least 2 more that split off into I haven't found where yet. Seem like a lot. My question is would it be OK to keep those running to where they are going and still run 0 gauge from Alt to battery using a bus bar or similar? Also with the ground question there are several split offs from the ground battery terminal to the chasey, should just through those on top of my 0 gaug…

i finally made a decision on a sub to go with. im going with a SSA Icon in a ported box, 4cu@33hz and would like some help tuning the amp so i dont tear up another speaker right away. I'm goin to set the gain according to the tutorial on the jl website but need help with the other settings. i already know to leave the bass boost off lol. i mainly need help with the infrasonic filter(infrasonic freq.,"Q",Center freq.) i assume the LP freq should be set at about 80hz correct me if im wrong tho. should the slope be on 12db or 24db, im guessing 24 but could be wrong there too lol. also as far as the lp and hp filters on the head unit do they even have any effect on the amp? t…

How big power wire i should get for my kenwood KAC-9104D. 10mm2 16mm2 20mm2 I was thinking about 20mm2.

Hello, First to let you know my install that I am having an issue with.... I have a pioneer avh-3200dvd, an sax-50.4 which is powering the IA coaxial speakers in my front stage. The Issue: Yesterday I was going into depth both on my amplifier and the head unit to tune my front stage to my satisfaction. Some 3 hours later, I had gotten it just the way I wanted it. To tune, I unplugged the rcas to pull my amp out to access it, and plugged them back in. The x-over setting on my amp was on full, I switched it to HPF and basically tuned to desire. When I was done, I turned my truck off, then back on, and WHINE, no music playing. Turned the truck off, then into the half posi…