Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I will be getting a sundown Sa-8 here when they ship out. I need a amp i was looking at the Rockford prime r500 ,but i dont know if its going to hit them low lows. the box will be 1.2 cuft tuned to 35hz aero port. DOES ANYONE know of a good amp for it UNDER 175 dollars?

i know old school sound streams are good amps. i have a mint sa-164 already and it suprises me how much power it puts out. and the rubicon 1002 is supposed to put out 1000w rms. thats just what i need so is $150 for this amp an ok deal that will guarantee me 1000w rms?

So before i scurry up the money to buy a sax125.2, i would like to still be able to play my boustin acoustic pro60se 6.5's. digging through the garage i found one of those old school alpine 3522s. i've been looking through the internet and need some clarification. Its 30 watts at 4 ohms. 2channel. the pro60se are 125 watts a side at 3 ohms. so my question is, would the boustin acoustics sound better off of the 3522s than the stock speakers off of my head unit? another, more serious question. i Read on another forum that since this amp is so old school, it won't match up with my head unit. they said the amp is 1v inputs (true??) and my head unit has 4v outputs. to me, it…

Has anybody used Braille Batteries before?

OK I have made the decision to go with a custom dual alt set up in the Taurus...yada yada ya mount it, longer, belt, etc.. done. BUT I got to thinking about a few things I learned in school and I was wondering if anybody else on here with a dual alt set up has run a equalization connection between the two to prevent the alt that has the stronger field excitation from taking all the load and turning the other weaker one into a motor? And how do you know that both are in phase as not to double voltage when they are 180 degrees out of phase, 28 volts will fry my car. anybody with knowledge of electron physics that could help would be GREATLY appreciated

Hi, I'm sort of new to this, I searched the topic but didn't find what I was looking for so please be patient. I've been away from car audio for 7 or so years, a lot has changed and I would like to learn. I'm in the infancy of planning my stereo, I'm planning on running ~1500-2000watts RMS, the vehicle in question is a 1994 3/4 ton Suburban with a 454, 105 amp (I believe) alternator. I definitely plan to upgrade the battery and my ground and use 0 gauge wiring, what exactly do I look for in a battery and at my power levels would it be wise to run a second battery? Furthermore, how exactly does one wire a second battery? Should I upgrade my alternator as well? Or if it was…

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I recently bought a hifionics brutus amp and the blue hifionics loogo works, but the power led does not come on. The manual said if this happens theirs not enough power going through the remote wire and said to use a jumper wire and connect it to the 12V+? Im not exactly sure what to do, and i def dont wanna take my chances and screw it up. Can someone tell me what to do?

Soo just recently my rear speakers started making this werid popping noise that gets progressivley louder when you turn up the music, i hadnt done anything new to the amp before this started and it ONLY happens on the rear speakers. If it makes a difference my rear/front speakers are ran off 2 seperate RCA cables. Anyone have any idea? ive checked connections on the speaker and amp and everything looks fine. Im thinking its either bad RCA cables or the amp is going to shit...

I'm shopping for a h/o alt for my truck. It's a 2003 Ford f-150 triton V-8 4.6L. I have a ZX1500.1 at 2 ohms and a SX400.2 at 4 ohms per channel. a duralast gold 850 cca under hood 0 gauge big 3 upgrade My ZX1500.1 keeps going into protect mode from the voltage drops. I've emailed I think everyone recommend on this forum. This is the list of what I've gathered and got quoted including shipping. in no perticular order. Iraggi 220 amp $290 High Output alternators 200 amp $400 Mechman 270 amp $420 …

Am using this amp currently with a 15" Fi Q with BP Power in a 4cu.ft box @ 30Hz and it sounds pretty good. What i need to know is, how precise is the clipping led on the bassboost knob? I set my gain the way that it was explained in the "How To" section of the forum but anytime i turn the volume to about "half" (20/40) the clipping light being to blink. The Q is wired to 2 ohms and the 2200 does 1300 watts at that rating whicn means a gain setting of 50.9 volts. To be on the safe side, i set my gain to 47.5 volts with a DMM at 3/4 volume with all my current setting. Am not sure of what am doing wrong. Any help would be great, thanks.

Hey I got an amp that says its minimum impedance bridged is 4 ohms, and will produce 1000w at 4 ohms bridged. Ive been running 2 dual 4 ohm subs to make the 4 ohms bridged mode, but due to power limitations I want to take out one of the subs so I can get more power to push a single sub. Since the amp does 1000w bridged at 4 ohms, would it be safe to assume that if I wired a single sub to run at 8 ohms, it would produce 500w rms bridged? Edit: by power limitations I mean I'm running my stock 80 amp alternator, no spare battery and no big 3. so my subs have to split somewhere around 400 watts, id rather just push one at 400 watts than 2 at 200.

Could I run a single yellow top as a starting battery and run a ~1500w system off of it?

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After Long Time Of Looking Through 50+ threads using the Search bar and going through the build logs i still was unable to find what i was looking for Im tring to find pictures of amp racks where one amp is on top of the other. I Remember seeing one in an SUV but cant find it. Kinda looks like this...

I am looking into adding a second battery and all i need to know is whether i am missing any big deals/sales right now, or if anyone has a better option for me in the $180.00 range?! Can anyone point me into the direction of a better "deal" than the hc1400 for $165.00?! eBay Thanks!

I am looking to but 1 18" BTL Fi subwoofer. I can build the box (i hope) and can do a proper job installing it. I have a sufficient enough amp sending 3500 watts continuous power its way. I have 0ga power wire ran 10ga speaker wire. But i have the stock alternator and battery. Is this a problem? would a nice cap handle the difference? Or what should i get to solve the problem?

I have an old school memphis Belle 6-ch amp. Here is what I know for sure: -Channels 1-4 work fine. (4x75@4) -Channels 5 and 6 have possible the same problem, but 6 has it worse. (2x150@4 playing 80-250hz) -Channel 5 works maybe half the time at start up -Channel 6 never works on start up. -Power/ground/remote is secure and is 4awg. -Both speakers are connected properly. -Both speakers have power from the amp (I know this for a fact) -Neither speaker is blown, both have good coils and leads. -The RCAs are good and both send signal to the amp (again, I know this) -If I play a tone within range of the band pass and gradually turn up the volume to about 80% up to the volume …

i was wondering if any one could help me by telling me were i could get a in dash volt meter? i have been searching on line and for some reason cant find any only batt terminal volt meters also any recommendation on some brands ? i was thinking stinger put like i said for some reason cant find any mayb im doing something wrong

I have an old school LP 1502IQ. It has not be modded. I'm getting ready to start putting together something for my wife's car. She wants a good sounding front stage with minimal bass from a sub. She listens to all kinds of music. Is this amp worth sending out to be modded and put on a component set of Focals or similar? Or should I just sell it and get a Sundown amp. If I go with the Sundown amp...could the 100.4 do the front components and also a sub like the SA-8 on pre-sale now? This is going in a Kia Spectra5. The specs show that it has to have a slim mount component set. Does anyone know of any components around the same quality as the Focals that are shall…

What I have currently installed: Kenwood Excelon H/U – Ez700SR (more than 4 years old) Kicker ZR240 on Focal 6.5 Polyglass components Kicker ZX1000.1 on Fi BL15 fully loaded in 4 ft^3 at 32 Hz Big three in 1/0 2005 Mercury Mariner SUV I first set the sub amp with a DMM when I first installed the sub back in November. I was working on modifying the amp rack over the weekend and decided to put the DMM back on and make sure nothing has moved. When I first set the amp I had 44.7 volts with the 50 Hz tone with volume of 27 out of 35. I have no bass boost turned on the amp and all settings on the deck are flat. Now.... The most voltage I could get with the amp was 18.4 vol…

I'm getting ready to buy some amps for my set up and need to know if I can go active. I read a bit on active vs. passive but not sure when it comes to the HU and AMP requirements. Here is my setup HU - Pioneer Premier DEH-P690UB Front - Hybrid Clarus C61-2 (2 way) Sub - Single IDQ12v3 (DVC) The Pioneer HU xover specs are.... Crossover Network Two-Way Crossover High-Pass Crossover (HPF) 50/63/80/100/ 125/160/200Hz, 0/-6/-12dB/Oct. Subwoofer Crossover (LPF) 50/63/80/100/ 125/160/200Hz, -6/-12/-18dB/Oct. The amps I'm looking at are either DLS RA20 & RA10 or a pair of ARC KS 300.2 (sub bridged 4 ohm) RA20 (Front) - Variable high-pass filter (20-150 Hz) & Vari…

Today i got my AQ2200 (used) and hooked it up to my dvc 4ohm(wired to 1ohm) type r's just to see how it works, it was dark out so i couldnt/didnt really have time to tune the amp correctly.. but i did do it by ear real quick., and i have to say.... i was REALLY dissapointed My PDX1000 performed/powered better.. i set the gains on that by ear, but acually sat there for about an hour listening to it and turning lil by lil. (not like i did with the AQ) My question is should i be afriad its defective? oh.. and do i HAVE to use the bass knob? - i dont like having one. Thank you dom.

Well, I'm upgrading, and had plans to keep existing power wire, but think i might stress the capacity of the wire. What I have: 20' of Knu KLMX 1/0AWG to second battery (trunk) [Fused @ 250A] 5' of Knu KLMX 1/0AWG from second battery to amps (distro. block in between) What I'm putting in: Soundstream RUB1.2500D [250A] Soundstream RUB2.600 [60A] Soundstream RUB2.250 [30A] Now, I've read that KLMX is capable of 250A loads, and Kolossus 300A+. Would the KLMX I have be enough to run the amps, if I upgrade the inline to 300A, and run 250,60,30 ANL in the distribution block. [However, 250+60+30≠300] Has anyone ran a 300A load off KLMX, or should I just spend the $100 and get t…

So pretty much what the title says. Looking to buy a battery to run a SAZ-3000d. Already ordered a 260 HO alt from Iraggi. Mainly im looking for a comparison between the Shuriken and the Kinetik. which would you buy? prices are close enough for that to not be a factor. Both are 2600 amps which is why im comparing them!! Any input would be nice! thanks! let the replies come