Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

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I was all set to buy an Alpine PDX-4.100 for the front stage and a Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000-bd for my sub. Then I read some more about amps and i really like the feaetures on the JL audio stuff, specifically, that their amps put out consistent power at any impedance between 1.5 and 4 ohms and at any voltage between 11 and 14.4 volts. This seems to be worht the extra cash outlay. Also, I am well aware of the quality of JL products. My question: Is JL the only company that makes amps that will put out a consistent power across ohms and with different voltages? In my research, I was unable to find any other amps that did this. Thanks for your help. In case it …

Today i got my AQ2200 (used) and hooked it up to my dvc 4ohm(wired to 1ohm) type r's just to see how it works, it was dark out so i couldnt/didnt really have time to tune the amp correctly.. but i did do it by ear real quick., and i have to say.... i was REALLY dissapointed My PDX1000 performed/powered better.. i set the gains on that by ear, but acually sat there for about an hour listening to it and turning lil by lil. (not like i did with the AQ) My question is should i be afriad its defective? oh.. and do i HAVE to use the bass knob? - i dont like having one. Thank you dom.

What I have currently installed: Kenwood Excelon H/U – Ez700SR (more than 4 years old) Kicker ZR240 on Focal 6.5 Polyglass components Kicker ZX1000.1 on Fi BL15 fully loaded in 4 ft^3 at 32 Hz Big three in 1/0 2005 Mercury Mariner SUV I first set the sub amp with a DMM when I first installed the sub back in November. I was working on modifying the amp rack over the weekend and decided to put the DMM back on and make sure nothing has moved. When I first set the amp I had 44.7 volts with the 50 Hz tone with volume of 27 out of 35. I have no bass boost turned on the amp and all settings on the deck are flat. Now.... The most voltage I could get with the amp was 18.4 vol…

I currently am running my xcon on a hifonics brutus 2009 version that is 1600rms at 1-ohm, I was wondering what would be the main difference between, a saz1500d and a 2000rms at 1-ohm hifonics amp. as in sound quality? and if anyone is better for clean rich power for a decent price, and other amp suggestions or info is great.

Well, I'm upgrading, and had plans to keep existing power wire, but think i might stress the capacity of the wire. What I have: 20' of Knu KLMX 1/0AWG to second battery (trunk) [Fused @ 250A] 5' of Knu KLMX 1/0AWG from second battery to amps (distro. block in between) What I'm putting in: Soundstream RUB1.2500D [250A] Soundstream RUB2.600 [60A] Soundstream RUB2.250 [30A] Now, I've read that KLMX is capable of 250A loads, and Kolossus 300A+. Would the KLMX I have be enough to run the amps, if I upgrade the inline to 300A, and run 250,60,30 ANL in the distribution block. [However, 250+60+30≠300] Has anyone ran a 300A load off KLMX, or should I just spend the $100 and get t…

I have a 5500watt amp that is 70% efficient which makes 3850watts to use. I have a 250amp alternator and my car uses up 27amps of that alternator so i have 223 amps from my alternator. i have replaced my BIG 3 with 0 gauge, and will have my system (an 18" Fi BTL dual 2) ran with 0ga and the speaker wire in 10ga. If i worked everything out correctly using 13v i should be looking for a 31ah battery but i know that i want to go much higher to run off of my battery and not my alt. What do i look for in a battery? and if possible what kind would you all recommend? should i use more then one?

So i am in a debate between the Fi BL 15 and Fi BTL 15, the deciding factor is wether or not i will have the electrical support for the amplifier. I am wondering if i would have enough electrical to keep up with the Hifonics BXi2610d to run on the BTL... Here are my specs... Electrical: Stock Alternator 105 Amps Stock Battery Up Front Big Three in 1/0 One run of 1/0 to Trunk Power Acoustik 5.0 Farad Cap. ( start criticizing, it will be gone in the new setup) I have been running 1100rms at 2-ohms with little noticable dimming while sitting still, but none while driving. I plan to add a Kinetik 1200 in the rear with the new installation. My voltage has never dipped below 1…

After Long Time Of Looking Through 50+ threads using the Search bar and going through the build logs i still was unable to find what i was looking for Im tring to find pictures of amp racks where one amp is on top of the other. I Remember seeing one in an SUV but cant find it. Kinda looks like this...

i was wondering if any one could help me by telling me were i could get a in dash volt meter? i have been searching on line and for some reason cant find any only batt terminal volt meters also any recommendation on some brands ? i was thinking stinger put like i said for some reason cant find any mayb im doing something wrong

what would you guys pick, i have about $300 to spend Pioneer AVH-P3100DVD or clarion nx409

I saw a discussion about this a long while ago on some audio site and can't find it again. I just wanted to know if there are any substancial advantages to running power wire directly from the alt to the back battery bank. For example: I have 4 runs of 1/0 running from front to back, 2+ and 2-. Right now, both + are running back from the + on my front battery. Would it be advantagous to run one run back from the + on the front battery, and the other from the + on the alt to the back battery bank? Advantages, disadvantages, not matter? My electrical will consist of 2+ and 2- runs of 1/0 from front to back, big 3 in 1/0, one 290 amd DC alt (2 in the future), g34 YellowTop u…

I'm planning a build and i'm thinking about amp placement. I know that amps should be grounded around 18" or less but i've seen builds where the grounds are four plus feet, anyone care to shed light on this, is it ok if excellent wire is used? BTW the build was from a person whos name that can't be mentioned.

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So pretty much what the title says. Looking to buy a battery to run a SAZ-3000d. Already ordered a 260 HO alt from Iraggi. Mainly im looking for a comparison between the Shuriken and the Kinetik. which would you buy? prices are close enough for that to not be a factor. Both are 2600 amps which is why im comparing them!! Any input would be nice! thanks! let the replies come

anybody know any 2 or 4 channel amps that are 18v capable?

Mechman 220 amp $300 or Db Electrical 250 amp $268?

I just came back from the store but before I made it home my amp, a JL Audio 1000/1 cut off and the low voltage light came on. I have 1 gauge wiring with Big 3 and 1 gauge running to my rear battery. Both my battery are Optima Red Tops. I was listening to at very low volume like 5 and I decided to crank it and after 8 or 10 seconds it cuts out. I'm pushing a 12W7 so I'm not sure whats the deal. Can it be the stinger 200 amp isolator that I have in between my 2 batteries? All my connections are tight and grounded good. What am I missing? I need to fix this so any suggestions? I think this is like the second time it happens. I believe it happened before, so now that I seen …

Has anybody used this amp or heard a setup using it?want to put it with a 15"fully loaded btl..

I want to know in very good detail, on what the advantage is in the difference from a 3v pre--out to a 5v pre-out?? i'm just curious.

will you notice any deferents between a deck with a 95 db signal to noise ratio or a deck with a 105 db. With 2 volt out puts and also the same ? with 4 v out

I'm looking into getting a new head unit, and I was wanting some suggestions.. I'm looking for something simple, but quality. I need ability to play MP3 CD's, Have an AUX input, and a USB port that will work with iPod or iPhone (not a major need though). I have an XO vision something or other 3" screen DVD player type head unit that I got from wal mart online for like 100$, and I'm just not impressed with the quality or controls. In order to do anything on the HU you have to use the remote control, which is extremely annoying. The built in EQ is pitiful too. I'm just looking for simple, and quality, with the features I stated above. My budget is about 250-300$. I don't ha…

i want a 2000 sundown but dont hav the money for that right now so these 2 amp is my next choise wat the diffence b/w the 2 which one is a better buy an why ill be running 2 SA-12 with 2 yellow top batt , stock atl with the big 3 thanks

Im really looking to buy a FI BL 15, and I want to run it on a JL AUDIO 1000/1. I want to get the DVC 2 ohm. With all options. I have 1 gauge wiring, Big 3, and secondary battery in the trunk. Both batteries are Optima Red Tops. This will be in a 06 Nissan Altima. Is this amp sufficient power to push the Fi? I still have not configured anything for a box. Probably will be at 3.5 - 4 cu. ft. What should the box be tuned to for max output? I'm new to what type of box I should use so any advice will be appreciated. Right now I have a 12W7. I'm looking for SP and so I'm going for Fi.

I am looking to but 1 18" BTL Fi subwoofer. I can build the box (i hope) and can do a proper job installing it. I have a sufficient enough amp sending 3500 watts continuous power its way. I have 0ga power wire ran 10ga speaker wire. But i have the stock alternator and battery. Is this a problem? would a nice cap handle the difference? Or what should i get to solve the problem?