Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a 5500watt amp that is 70% efficient which makes 3850watts to use. I have a 250amp alternator and my car uses up 27amps of that alternator so i have 223 amps from my alternator. i have replaced my BIG 3 with 0 gauge, and will have my system (an 18" Fi BTL dual 2) ran with 0ga and the speaker wire in 10ga. If i worked everything out correctly using 13v i should be looking for a 31ah battery but i know that i want to go much higher to run off of my battery and not my alt. What do i look for in a battery? and if possible what kind would you all recommend? should i use more then one?

i want a 2000 sundown but dont hav the money for that right now so these 2 amp is my next choise wat the diffence b/w the 2 which one is a better buy an why ill be running 2 SA-12 with 2 yellow top batt , stock atl with the big 3 thanks

i have a 2000 f250 i am going to buy a sae 1200d and a sax 50.4 refurb. just wanted to know if this was good i am going to put it on 2 sa-8 or 2 IA 187 10 or RE SR 10 whats your vote i have alpine type r mids and highs a pioneer hu and i will be doing the big 3 and a vote meter just want to know if this is right??? or anything else i can add Is there a specific DB for hairtricks???? oh and i believe the stock alt is 130a

Hey guys! we're trying to set the gains and settings on my bro's sub/amp but he has stock blose speakers and amp for his mids and hi's.... anyone know if the bose amp has a gain control on it or if possible can we add one? speakers max out volume @ 17/80 ha. HU is a 9887 and 15"icon + 1000D. Thanks in advance guys

I am planning on putting a system in my stock 05 Dodge ram 1500 Quad-cab and wanted to know if my electrical could handle it if i added a couple of batterys in the back? I don't want to buy a alt because i will be getting rid of the truck in about a year or so. the amp will push one DC lvl4XL or Lvl5 I have the whole back seat to work with for space If anyone needs any other specs just ask. Thanks for help in advance.

So i am in a debate between the Fi BL 15 and Fi BTL 15, the deciding factor is wether or not i will have the electrical support for the amplifier. I am wondering if i would have enough electrical to keep up with the Hifonics BXi2610d to run on the BTL... Here are my specs... Electrical: Stock Alternator 105 Amps Stock Battery Up Front Big Three in 1/0 One run of 1/0 to Trunk Power Acoustik 5.0 Farad Cap. ( start criticizing, it will be gone in the new setup) I have been running 1100rms at 2-ohms with little noticable dimming while sitting still, but none while driving. I plan to add a Kinetik 1200 in the rear with the new installation. My voltage has never dipped below 1…

now i know this is not ah hole lot of power like some of the systems some of you guys have but is what i have for now till i do my big upgrade! here is some pics of the system i had and what i chanced it to. lets just say its 5 times better then it was before! old system: one treo tsx 12" sub on a carpeted bandpass box one treo ssx 400.1 amp one treo knob processor new set up: one treo tsx 12" sub on a bed-linered ported box tuned around 34 hrtz with one zapco 500.1 amp now the new set up

what would you guys pick, i have about $300 to spend Pioneer AVH-P3100DVD or clarion nx409

Mechman 220 amp $300 or Db Electrical 250 amp $268?

I saw a discussion about this a long while ago on some audio site and can't find it again. I just wanted to know if there are any substancial advantages to running power wire directly from the alt to the back battery bank. For example: I have 4 runs of 1/0 running from front to back, 2+ and 2-. Right now, both + are running back from the + on my front battery. Would it be advantagous to run one run back from the + on the front battery, and the other from the + on the alt to the back battery bank? Advantages, disadvantages, not matter? My electrical will consist of 2+ and 2- runs of 1/0 from front to back, big 3 in 1/0, one 290 amd DC alt (2 in the future), g34 YellowTop u…

I'm planning a build and i'm thinking about amp placement. I know that amps should be grounded around 18" or less but i've seen builds where the grounds are four plus feet, anyone care to shed light on this, is it ok if excellent wire is used? BTW the build was from a person whos name that can't be mentioned.

anybody know any 2 or 4 channel amps that are 18v capable?

I just came back from the store but before I made it home my amp, a JL Audio 1000/1 cut off and the low voltage light came on. I have 1 gauge wiring with Big 3 and 1 gauge running to my rear battery. Both my battery are Optima Red Tops. I was listening to at very low volume like 5 and I decided to crank it and after 8 or 10 seconds it cuts out. I'm pushing a 12W7 so I'm not sure whats the deal. Can it be the stinger 200 amp isolator that I have in between my 2 batteries? All my connections are tight and grounded good. What am I missing? I need to fix this so any suggestions? I think this is like the second time it happens. I believe it happened before, so now that I seen …

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B000E3ZDP0/ref=dp_image_z_0?ie=UTF8&n=172282&s=electronics

I'm looking into getting a new head unit, and I was wanting some suggestions.. I'm looking for something simple, but quality. I need ability to play MP3 CD's, Have an AUX input, and a USB port that will work with iPod or iPhone (not a major need though). I have an XO vision something or other 3" screen DVD player type head unit that I got from wal mart online for like 100$, and I'm just not impressed with the quality or controls. In order to do anything on the HU you have to use the remote control, which is extremely annoying. The built in EQ is pitiful too. I'm just looking for simple, and quality, with the features I stated above. My budget is about 250-300$. I don't ha…

I want to know in very good detail, on what the advantage is in the difference from a 3v pre--out to a 5v pre-out?? i'm just curious.

Has anybody used this amp or heard a setup using it?want to put it with a 15"fully loaded btl..

Im really looking to buy a FI BL 15, and I want to run it on a JL AUDIO 1000/1. I want to get the DVC 2 ohm. With all options. I have 1 gauge wiring, Big 3, and secondary battery in the trunk. Both batteries are Optima Red Tops. This will be in a 06 Nissan Altima. Is this amp sufficient power to push the Fi? I still have not configured anything for a box. Probably will be at 3.5 - 4 cu. ft. What should the box be tuned to for max output? I'm new to what type of box I should use so any advice will be appreciated. Right now I have a 12W7. I'm looking for SP and so I'm going for Fi.

will you notice any deferents between a deck with a 95 db signal to noise ratio or a deck with a 105 db. With 2 volt out puts and also the same ? with 4 v out

well i am looking for a good brand after market alternator, if you know of any help me out,

I just purchased a sundown 100.4. I'm going to run 6.5's in the kicks and two 3 inch mid ranges in my front pillars. I am going to band-pass channel's 3&4 with the subsonic filter set at 150 hz then setting the Low pass frequency crossover at 4,500Hz for the 6.5. Then channels 1&2 would be set on High Pass and the High Pass Crossover set at 750Hz for my pillars. I will also be running tweeters, those will be running on channels 1&2 also, but those will have a passive crossover set at around 5khz. This is just a rough draft. Now I was wondering can I use my o scope to setup the crossover network. The dials don't have any accurate marks neither do they click.…

I am trying to decide between (2) new AudioQue 2200ds or (2) used or refurbished Sundown SAZ-2000ds. I want to spend less than 800 and will be driving 4 D4 Elemental Designs 13Av.2s. I want to link 2 and I am hoping to get around 1100 to 1300 to each sub and they will be in a new box slightly over 8.8 ft.^3 tuned to 29hz. I have proper electrical so that won't be an issue so just some opinions on what your experiences are with the amps and which ones you would buy. Thanks.

So Im driving on the interstate the other day and came upon this tractor trailer. Thought it was random and interesting in a 'tilt my hat to you good sir' kind of way so I grabbed a pic on my way by.

Hey guys! OK, my third post is supposed to be here so here goes. I am about to purchase a pair of Alpine SPR-17S component speakers for my truck. Here are the specs: Power Handling:Peak: 660 watts per set / 330 watts each sideRMS: 220 watts per set / 110 watts each side[*]Impedance: 4 ohms[*]Hybrid layered-pulp woofer with rubber surround[*]1" Textile ring-dome tweeter (silk)[*]External crossovers — 12 dB/octave (high -pass) and 6 dB/octave (low-pass) crossover points[*]Frequency response: 65 Hz - 27 kHz[*]Sensitivity: 87 dB The two amps I'm considering are these: JL Audio Slash v2 300/2v2 (link click here) Slash v2 Series 2-Channel Class AB Car AmplifierRMS Power Ratin…

i just put in a used alpine cda- something it has an ipod cord but i cant get it to work. On the very right side of the deck there is a power light under that a tittle button and a light that say ipod when you hook up the ipod that light should light up right and to use your i pod you pick ipod from the source menu right ? But the ipod light dont come on and there is no ipod on the source menu. any clue what my problem is think it's the deck or the cord? and i know its not the ipod because it works fine with everything els