Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I need some input from anybody that might know, I purchased an aftermarket alternator for my 2009 dodge ram 5.7. I sold the truck and now I have a 2012 dodge ram 5.7. My question for anyone who knows is; will the electrical system of the new ram (2012) handle the aperage and extra voltage (300 amps @ 15.3 volts) ? Also, I got the self excite module to boost voltage to 15.3 volts. This will be the only alternator in the truck. Thanks for any help!

Can anyone recommend a good working EQ. I used to have an old PPI unit with my old set up, but I don't think it works anymore. I plan to get a SS RL-p 12, either the USAmps 2080 or 2100, CDT CL-62 and I already have a Diamond Audio 1200.1 for the sub. Are their any that I should stay away from?

I've been considering getting a new sub amp, mainly looking to switch to class D for the increased efficiency. I'm currently running a Rubicon 702 on my sub and a 100w amp on my highs, and my lights dim at night when driven hard. My final system will consist of about double that much power, so I'm looking to switch my sub amp to something more efficient since I don't want to do any electrical upgrades other than upgrade the battery. I'm looking for something that'll do ~700-800w into 4ohm, 1200w+ into 2ohm, and being 1ohm stable would be nice just to keep my sub options open in the future. Had my eye on a RF T10001bd since I've seen some pretty insanely high efficiency…

I was wondering if anyone knows what type of RCA's would work best for a Soundquebed 3500 amp? I was hearing about differential and coaxial type's is why. I know one type is twisted and the other is straight. Also,any brand inpatucliar would help.

It's an Atomic 3000.1 2 FI BLs @2ohms 1200 XS power battery in the rear 2 runs of 0 gauge wiring stock alternator/front battery Has been playing fine the past week or so, but as of yesterday, any time the volume gets turned up around halfway, nothing ridiculously maxed out, the subs make a funny noise and the amp goes into protection mode. I've already checked that the ground is good, no loose wires or anything touching metal, the usual routine checks.. Not sure if it is getting starved for power or what's wrong at all. I'm not 100% audio savey but I know bits and pieces here and there. The amp is an older model that was damaged when I bought it, but I sent it back to…

with christmas coming up and me "getting" some polk audio speakers for my tahoe as a gift, what should i get myself?(lol) i am torn between the pioneer and the jvc(i'd probably be getting them off of sonicelectronix) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19739_Pioneer+AVIC-X910BT.html $699 + already has bluetooth - would need to get the steering wheel controls($70) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12317_JVC+KW-NX7000.html $709 + large sexy screen + remote control + garmin nav - bluetooth would be an additional $70 the boot-up times dont seem to be an issue, since from reading they both start audio upon ignition, it would just be the nav that takes a while i want either …

this weekend i worked on the car some. i installed my voltmeter, when i installed it it said "LO" figured cuz the car wasent on well i was working on it and the batt drained some. so i hooked up a charger and let it charge well i finnished wireing my active front stage and my sax100.4. when i was done i turned the car on and i had nothing playing at all. volt meter went up to 11volts, i drove around and the highest it goes is 11.4. i have the big 3 done. i have an optima g35 under the hood 720 cold cranking amps. when i stop at a red light it drops down back to "LO" witch is under 10 volts. i have an 06 envoy. when i was running my wires and installing everything i notice…

Basically I'm planning on starting a build pretty soon and right now I'm doing my homework on headunits. I've pretty much narrowed it down to these two. They are practically the same price(JVC is $10 more) and the JVC has a few more features like HD radio, 5V pre-outs, etc. But Pioneer seems to have a better reputation, so I'm not really sure. These seem to be the best two that fit my requirements as I need one that is around $150, has at least 4V outputs, and sub pre amp outputs. So which one do you guys think would be the better buy?

well i bought an alternator a week ago and it just arrive today. now i have a question how can i really check for the output the guy i bough it for said it was a 300 amp alt from excessive amp but i want to make sure it sure is (not that i want to say the guy is a scammer) but for my personal intentions of using it. any help would do great, i know i shouldnt take it to autozone or any place like that results wont come right

Hey guys, going to be replacing my "200a" alternator, why, because well, I just found out that it reaches it's peak at 5000rpm..lmao Anyways, new system will be ~2500RMS with a total of 260a's of fuses. 200 (mono) + 60 (2chan) What size alternator should I be looking at, would a 200a that reaches peak @ 1500rpm be OK? Or should I go bigger?

My car came with an Alpine CDA-9835 and I want to get an Ipod adapter for it but every store I go in to find one tells me I should get a newer head unit so I can use the high speed Ipod crap. I don't really want to spend money on a new head unit but if it logically makes sence I will. Stores are quoting me around $150 for the ipod interface and they all finish with it would be better to get a new head unit for that much but I don't see why I would downgrade my head unit. My old car had a JVC-KDSH1000 head unit and I had the Ipod adapter for that which was pretty crappy but I just usualy throw my ipod on shuffle and drive. I will admit that finding a specific song was ext…

would this paired with an Alpine iDA-X100(ipod deck) be a good match for processing if I wanted to run 2 or 3 way active? any thoughts from people who have or is currently running this eq. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6358_A...EQS+-GRAY-.html

Ok my subs are set to never really pop or clip unless you put alot of gain up i have my gain set right according to the dmm set at 43 volts Running a sundown 1500d at 1.5 - 2 ohms. Well i know its not the subs they can take a harder beating by mean turning the gain up higher just distorting them a lil bit so thats not the problem. The popping seems to only happen when on the highway with all windows down doesnt do it when in the city with windows down. So what is the problem here? I have the volume the same spot on samg song in the city and nothing happens. Can someone help me out with this.

So my question is, how many have tried a 12v battery with a 2v battery in series to get 14v and charge at 16.3-16.8 volts... And this would be a daily / spl setup. so let me hear all the pro's @ con's, I think it would rock

Concept HP-65.4 Amplifier Description: RMS Power 70W x 2 @ 4 Ohm RMS Power 135W x 2 @ 2 Ohm RMS Power 260W x 1 @ 4 Ohm MONO Signal-to-noise ratio: 100 dB Frequency Response: 5Hz - 50kHz Total harmonic distortion: 0.05% Continuously variable 0 - 18dB BASS boost Built-in continuously variable 18dB per octave crossover Input sensitivity: 200mV - 4V Engraved CONCEPT logo Gold connectors Small footprint Dimension: 13-2/5" x 6-6/7" x 2"

My alt is stock with a crescendo batt and the problem is when it's cold out side it idles at 14.4 volts but when it's warm out side it drops down to 12.9 at idle...what could it be...battery, alt or what.... My electrical so far is crescendo battery logic 31, 2 runs of 0 gauge from alt and big 3 with two runs of 0 gauge to the amp

Need some help with my alt. I have an ohio gen 300+ amp alt and it was bought for my old caravan and had a plug harness so it was able to plug into the vehicle plug . . Now I got a 93 cherokee and the alt will fit but on the jeeps stock alt instead of a plug there is 2 wires next to each other bolted to the alt rather than a 2 pin plug. . then a ground and power for the alt. . I know the 2 wires on the harness on my high output should connect to the 2 wires that are on the jeep that bolt to the stock alt but how do I find out which one connects to which?. . Let me know if that doesn't make any since and ill try to explain it better lol

I was telling my dad how i am going to buy another battery for my truck soon, for audio, and he said that he thinks putting the battery in the cab is illegal? I'm not sure why it would be and i have seen almost everyone on here put them in the cab. Is it illegal? I live in Texas if that helps.

i have a hifonics bxi1600, and i know no one likes them very much but im hoping you can answer some of my questions. my friend just got a 15" BL daul 2 ohm and after awhile i amp will turn off for about a minute but it is still lit up just very dim. i am runninh 4 gauge wire and i want to know if maybe it is because my amp isnt getting enough power and i should go for 2 gauge wire thanks

I have a 12" kicker l7 2ohm dvc sub needs 750watts rms i would like to get the kicker 750.1 but i cant wire it to 2ohms to get 750watts so i have to go with something like this. Also are hifonics amps any good? # No. OF CHANNELS: 2 # OUTPUT (watts):RMS @ 4 Ohms 220x2 # RMS @ 2 Ohms 380x2 # RMS @ 4 Ohm Mono 760x1 # T.H.D.: 0.02% # FREQ. RESPONSE (Hz): 10 - 30k # SIGNAL TO NOISE RATIO: >97dB # DAMPING FACTOR: >200 # INPUT SENSITVITY: 0.5 - 4.0V # CROSOVER SLOPES: 12dB # CROSSOVER FREQUENCY: High-Pass(Hz) 50 - 600 # Low-Pass(Hz) 50 - 150 # SUBWOFFER EQ: 0 - 18dB 0 # SUBWOOFER EQ FREQ. (Hz) : 40 - 120 # DIMENSIONS (INCHES): 9.5x2.5x20.0 # Fully regulated MOSFET power s…

Im planning on having a 2,000 watt rms amp (hifonics) hooked up in my 95 lexus es300. Im also thinking of a new battery. is optima a better battery than kinetik? or are they two different types of batts? sorry if this is a newbie question...lol.

This is how my boat is wired as of now. 2 ga. from the alt (pos) and the neg. (don't know where it is grounded but most likely the engine somehwere). These are connected to the starting battery. Then I have additional 2ga cables running in series to the aftermarket stereo battery (a deka intimidator), off of this is where my 4 ga. amp wires run (pos and neg in the same fashion). My question has to do with the grounding. I would guess that it would be better to ground my aftermarket battery directly to some big ass piece of metal (but alas only fiberglass around) and the same goes for my amps. It seems that all the ground is running all the way back to the starting batte…

Hello, I've been searching for a long time but what I found seems to be too light : not enough power when I burn it on a cd! Can you give some links, please? at least a 50 Hz test tone for the sub, and a 1000 Hz one for the speakers. BTW, do you all set the gains like that, or can you use some music instead ? Thanks

I'm looking at two amps a sundown 2500 or the crescendo 2000. I have the power to run either amp. I will be running it on a pair of disadvantages 12's.2 ohm daily, .05 ohm at competitions. What would u guys choose?

ok im going to try to make this short and simple because ive been thru hell looking for a new HU that can beat my RAVDVD1 (its nice but lacking a lil and very slow) im lookign for a few features i need and a few i want and other then that i dont care what else it has... so far ive found some close canidates but nothing for sure yet (top is JVC and i dont want a jvc to be hoenst) Features i need: 5.1 support with 6 rca outs dvd video support single din sized Features i want: DVD audio support Ability to handle high SPL USB input DIVX (very very important but all in all i could do without if everythign else was right) 4v+ preouts with 2 360.2 processors and 12 channels of …