Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Im looking for, im guessing his name is Mark Lafountain. He/was Soundsolutions on Caraudio.com.... I request him because he did a build in a sante fe and im curious to how he ran his wire. or anyone else a have a idea. im running 4 runs of 1/0

I'm planning to upgrade my electrical. My battery is in the back of the car (Magnum). Couldn't I just run new wire from the alt to a pair of separate batteries? Rather than wire all three together? I'd be running a pair of 105 AH marine deep cycle batts, dry cells, separate from a regular dry cell car battery. I've never seen it done, although i'm sure it has been. Thanks.

I am tryin to figure out if i should install an isolator in my setup and have been reading a LOT of info about this and have came across a LOT of things that i have never read about before from others. I've read things like- Not using an isolator can hurt the starter by it receiving a superior CA load and may kill it quicker. Showing off with car off will kill starting battery. Now, i've been on Stinger's site and i gotta call them about some things because they got some products and descriptions that are just begging for answers! Such as their SRVG which shuts off power altogether in the rear to prevent front battery from dying.... really? How? And also, their 200A rela…

Went out to my truck and followed the directions verbatim. Set my multimeter to read AC voltage, threw the 50hz tone up on the deck, and checked the voltage at the speaker terminals on my amp. I got nowhere near 30v, only 5.6v to start. Mind you, the gain level was at 3/4 at this point. What am I doing wrong?

The DSP aint working correctly on low input only on BT mode. On low mode only ch1/2 work rest aren’t playing, BT mode all play perfectly. I sent back to AD & was told there is nothing wrong that all outputs on low mode are working . other issue i get a clock ticking sound from ch 1 & BT keep cutting off every few seconds or minutes.

So I have a Alpine ute52bt that is cutting out whwn I turn it up. I first thought it was a connection So it was checked. Tried to move the ground from factory to bear metal to battery and it still cuts out once I start to turn up the volume. do you guys have any other ideas? Sorry for the short post. My set up is the deck listed. A pair of i65c and a pair of infinitys in the rear. Nothing follows.

Both my amps were working fine “twisted sounds 150.4”, but since one of the rcas outputs broke off I decided to change all to Tiffany style rcas. My issue i’m having now when I try to adjust the fader on HU to front the rear speakers still play but little lower & vise versa & balance is the same issue. Also when I turn on my vehicle it has engine noise through speakers now. The single solder between ch1,2 & 3,4 is + & the duals above them are grounds for 1,2,3,4.

So I wired up my brothers bmw, put in a pioneer HU and ran power to a 1200 watt amp with 2 12” subs. Now the 1st amp worked for a few months then just turned off, the 2nd and 3rd worked for a week. I checked and double checked all wires and there’re good. He took it to a radio shop and they said it was because his power and ground wires weren’t pure copper, he left with the system working and the next day the amp went into protection mode. Also the amps were blowing fuses, can anyone give me some advice on what the issue may be. Thanks in advance

My Pioneer MVH-8200 recently has been having faceplate issues where it seems like it isn't making a good connection and if I push in the faceplate sometimes it causes the unit to turn off then back on (most likely because it loses connection then regains). I live in maine so it gets pretty cold and I'm wondering if there is some moisture in there that's causing issues. If that is the case what do you think I could do to help clean off the connectors? I tried looking on ebay and amazon for a replacement faceplate and couldn't find one, and when I emailed pioneer they gave me the usual round around with warranty (which I don't have the info for since I bought it used)

today i got my new amp hifoincs Brutus bxi2006d looks damn good

cause I dont want to but another rca cable NOW when im just going to get a couple inst. kits later down the line. I have my my 4channel amp running only the fronts right now with a rca cable and no inputs to the rear soooo its ok if I hook up all the wiring to the high input harness and leave out the fronts input?

Knowing I would at the very least replace the factory speakers in my 2008 Mazda MX-5 Miata I did not go with the Bose System when I purchased the car. It does have the PRHT or power retractable hard top as well as system controls on the steering wheel which is why for now I am going to try to keep the factory head unit. A couple of local installers have suggested I replace the current four speaker system with a better component system and amp. The factory four speaker system is all in the doors and consists of a a 3 1/2 tweeter and a 5 x 8. I need the little bit of trunk space I have so a sub box and amp board in the trunk are out. I have a passenger enough that a sub …

so I just upgraded my sub and amp. I went from two MTX Roadthunder 12's in a prefab with a Bazooka EL500.1 amp to A DD2510 in a custom ported box with JBL GTO7001 amp. I bought it from my friend. it was loud in his car (a neon) but not quite as loud as my old crappier 12's in my car( a camry). Nothing has changed about the setup except what car its in. My head unit is a JVC KW-NX7000, if that has anything to do with it. We just put it in today and I'm kind of a noob at car audio( I can wire stuff up, I'm just not as versed in the intricacies of it all). I haven't really messed with the settings on the amp yet. Right now it has a nice clear bump for when I listen to rock b…

I talked with my uncles (the owner of USamps) wifey last night, the operation is a husband and wife thing, and I found out my uncle REALLY DOES own USAMPS, 100% sure of it. And the cool thing is, the guy wants to meet me! I told him that i had some ideas about how to get his company's name out into the public, and he wants to talk to me about them! I am soo happy!!! I

I just swapped my 2 Sundown Audio SAZ-3000d's for 2 3500's but im getting much less volume, 2.5 v drop, subs are heating up fast, excursing lots, and even music mute amps are getting warmer than they should, one particularly more than the other. Im at a loss! please any info will be helpful!

Alright well I added an amp to my car for testing. I unplugged the battery and had to plug it back in and when I tried to start it, it had troubles starting because of the disconnectoin of the battery. So When I went to start it I also tried to put a cd in. The cd was just sitting half way in so while I tried to start it again and just pushed the cd in. The cd player will not read it, and it cannot eject it becuase it doesn't see it as it's in there. It is a 2002 ford explorer, and it is the regular (not 6 disc) cd changer. I read to either grab it with plyers (can't find needle nose small enough) or take it out. I don't know how to take it out either so can someone help!

ok so i finally get my SeXXX in the mail, haha so i got me alil box ready so i hook it up, want to hear it better so i take a drive and crank it up a bit, as i'm increasing the power click, it cuts off, so i go check it out and all 3 fuses are blown...so i check my connections it's all good, i go back to my amp open it up, and the piece that holds the fuses in parallel i believe one of the pieces was off so it was all running through one piece instead of being regulated between 2 pieces... I paid 120 bux for the car audio people to fix this and now what it breaks a month later, and i haven'ty even had any subs to play it with for a while anyways...i would go back up ther…

i could possibly sell my jbl and buy a tsunami.. what do you think is it worth, 300 more watts, thats per sub so it's really 600watts.. watcha think.. just tryin to get the threads movin

i am looking at getting a jbl 1200 watt amp, i found 1 on sounddomain, but have not found much else. The one i found on SD was the powervalve BP, i found one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5700553298&rd=1 which would be better suited for 2 adire shiva 12's in a ported box

will this amp run at 1 ohm daily? http://jbl.com/car/products/product_detail...ser=GTS&cat=AMP i want to get two of them and two brahma's, 1 amp on each brahma. since the brahma is dual 2 ohm, the amp needs to be 1 ohm stable right? will that jbl amp work? thanks for any replies.

I have a JBL 1200.1db amplifier... what are your guys opinions on this amplifier?

I'm helping a friend install some subs he has had for quite some time now, and I'd like to let him have an amp that I've been trying to sell for what seems like forever but I'm not sure if it will work. He has 2 JL Audio 10w6 (old school version) and they're DVC 6ohm which means I can wire them to either get 6ohm impedence or 1.5ohm. My question is will the JBL GTO601.1 II amplifier work? It says maximum power at 2ohms and I've heard of some people wiring them at 1ohm, but it voids the warranty. Will this be a problem or should 1.5ohm be okay? any help is appreciated -John

OK OK so the new jbl amps put out 2200 watts at 1, 2, 3, 4, etc ohms right.. sooo, if i hook up 4 subs that see 1 ohm, they all get 2200 watts? or am i incorect, i mean it makes since right.

Does anyone have any experience with these amps? Are they reliable? I just bought the little 500.1 to try out in the sq oriented install. I bought it because its so versitile with its wiring options and I got it dirt cheap but I havent heard anything about its relliablity.

I found this amp JBL GTO14001 I have always been a JBL fan for live music and I was just curious if it will make that power or if its over rated Thanks