Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

what size alt is needed to run a aqx3500.1?

...and what do you like or dislike about it? I am in the market for a DMM. I read here about true rms DMMs after someone mentioned to be aware of this feature. Is this necessary for setting up gains when a constant frequency is used to get a voltage measurement? Also, how accurate or unnecessary would a clamp meter prove to be? At the moment, I feel I am shopping for a clamp meter with true rms feature. I appreciate your thoughts.

Anyone have one of these or read any good reviews of the new reference amps from Soundstream they could link me to? Back in the day they were the some of the best around. Seriously looking at the REF4.920.

I recently bought a motorcycle battery, to power a small kenwood 4ch amp. It is rated for 12v/160ca/12aH What is a decent budget charger? I was looking at the Kinetic Three-stage, but i don't have $109 Could i use a regular car charger on the 2amp charge setting?

So say i set my gain at 50%, if i dont even plug in the remote knob, obviously the amp operates with 50% gain. But if i plug in the remote knob and set the knob to 100%, given the amp's gain setting is still at 50%, will i have identical output? or would i have to reset the amp's gain setting with my dmm? From what i understand, the amp's gain setting sets the maximum level of gain, and the remote adjusts the percentage of that gain setting you want to use. i.e. you have the amp gain set at 50%, and the knob at 50%, so you'd be using the equivalent of setting the amp's gain at 25% with no boost knob correct?

Ive got a 105a alt and big 3 done also have a xs3400 under hood and a xs3100 on order, what else do i need to run a 3000w sub amp and a 400w high amp. Im guessing a larger alt . anyone that has ran similar or can give me help, thnx in advance

Howdy, I need some help here. I have two FI 15 BTL subs. Double voice coil,heat ring,etc,etc all options on the sub and built for daily playing. I have two brutus 2600's run by a controller. the amps or subs are not wired together. I also have installed besides the two 850 cranking amp ford battereis, two Kinetik 3800 watt batteries. The altrnator is (was) a 250Amp altenator built by Excessive amperage. After a week to 10 days the alternator gave out. I mean fried. I never ran the system at full power because I am still breaking in the subs. What could have caused the alternator to fry?? or was it just a bad alternator?? Altogether the system at full power is +/- 10400 wa…

I just bought a new mtx ta7801 well I traded 2 R.F. P1's forit but anyway anyone no of any problems with these amps it sounds nice and clean the birth sheet says it puts out 1732w at 1 ohm. Just wanted your guys opinion onit I've never been a big fan of MTX so idk anything about them.

HU: Alpine 9885 (4V) Front speakers: CDT CL-62 (160RMS) Rear speakers: CDT 69X (100RMS) Subwoofer: Fi 12" Here's how I have them wired. Front speakers are amplified, rear speakers are running off the head unit. The rear speakers start to distort at around 25/35 HU volume. Why? Ideally I would have preferred to have my HU @ ~30/35 for PEAK listening levels. But as of now, since the rears distort so early I have my front speakers and sub tuned to peak at around 22/35. Most of the audio is definitely coming from the front and the rears are doing a good job imagining, but I find that I could get much more out of my system if the rears weren't limiting me so much. What are my …

Does anyone know if it is a true remote gain control or just a bass boost? Also if it is a true gain control, will the actual gain on the amp supersede the remote knob? By this I mean no matter how high I crank the remote knob, it will not go past the gain setting on the amp, correct?

I got a directed d2400 amp hooked up to a JL 13w7. Theres a red and a green light that are both on. The red light has always been on as far as i can remember. The amp keeps blowing fuses like crazy. I can listen to music like half way or so and its fine but when i bang it it will just shut off and pop a fuse. I got 4g wire. I'm not sure why it keeps blowing fuses. I've been through like 7 fuses in a few days. I drive an 01 pt cruiser with no capacitor. Any help will be appreciated, thanks. Side note: it did the same thing when i first hooked it up but it worked fine for a few months now its messed up again. Also my serpentine belt is going bad an it squeeks REAL loud wh…

Am wanting to get another bettery to help upgrade my electrical. Does anyone know if the special application Kinerik HC 2000 is the same as the regular HC 2000 because i can find those for a lot cheaper price than the regular ones? I think i read somewhere that this years regular model has higher amps rating than last years special applications model. How true is this? Thnaks in advance for the response.

Hi , guys I need help. O.K. I have comps up front rated at 150 rms and rear coax spks. rated at 100 , and I know i don't have to use rears, but i have rear seat passengers a ll the time [ three kids] and they love listening to music . Anyhow , how do I feed the comps enough power without overpowering the rear spks. Recommendations please! I was about to buy a Sundown 100.4 because I assumed they were all 150 rms, now i'm afraid the rears won't take the power if the amp is underrated. Sorry the spks are CDT and I think they're entry line , 626/622.

While sitting here thinking about how i keep reading about capacitor or battery topic.. this popped in my head. So, i am curious... With the new XS VCM, will this not only replace MLA but also capacitor use period? For those that don't know what an XS VCM is, let me briefly describe it. It is an add-on device for stock or aftermarket alternators that has an attached module that sits in your car. This module is set to any voltage in 0.1v increments up to 19.5v if your setup supports such voltage. When the VCM is used, whatever voltage is set, this voltage will NOT fluctuate...not fluctuate...not...ever(with slight exception below) In testing, it is shown that, for example,…

Got a super old school 40x4 sony from a buddy of a mine and he said it worked. Spent all day running all the wires, got it hooked up and the power light comes on.. But there is something wrong, the only way I can describe it is a very loud thumping every second or so.. I have 2 sets of rca's ran and I think that could be the problem is me not having them set up right. On the back of my head unit I have the rca's hooked up to the sub amp fine. Then I have 2 pre-outs one set for the front and one set for the rear, well on the amp there is a,b,c,d and I'm not sure how this should be set up.. And the 2 sets of rca's are different idk if that makes a difference. Is this amp bl…

could someone give me a list of amps that do 2500 watts at 2ohms.

Well I have most things at my place ready to be hooked up sometime soon. But theres one problem, thats with donig the big three with my alt. There is a plug on the back of it that plugs into the block, its a three prong plug and those seem to be 8 gauge wire. There are three wires goign to the block then two to the battery. I do not see a ground at all. Now I have no bloody idea how I would re wire all of that. I would need a new three prong plug able to support 0 gauge wire (I would think). Ill post pictures tomorrow of it but I am very confused. If anybody has ane experience with a 02-03 passat (same engines) PLEASE let me know! As of right now I am thinking I may be o…

Well I read all of the instructions and whatnot but it seems I have ran into a strange, very strange problem. I soldered it according to the manual and the wiring harness and have three people double check my work and its done correctly. It seems I have to manually turn the cdplayer on and off no matter what state the car is in (on or off). Before when I had my old radio in whenever you took the key out it would turn off the cdplayer but not in this case. Any suggestions? Anything I should check (most of it has been double and triple by two or more people). I am just out of ideas. Its a 2003 VW Passat. I believe I did red to red wire and they both had a power sticker on i…

Alright. Today is such a good day out that I decided to start getting somethings tossed into the car (FINALLY!). I popped off the door panels (easy) and the floor panels (pain in the ass) to start running wires. I popped out the cd player as well and kind of went oh s**** because its a wiring nightmare in there... I have been looking around online now for at least an hour for wiring diagrams to see what goes to where and so far no luck... Any ideas where I can look (or does anybody have one?). The wiring diagram that came with the cdplayer is generic and doesn't look like its correct.

What is the best and easiest way to get get 16v to your amps in a daily driver? Do you need a seperate regulator for your alternator? What about the MLA Module, anyone ever used it and how well does it work?

Today I'm going over to Best Buy to buy a new head unit. I would normally buy from Crutchfield or Amazon but I don't want to mess up my new car. Anyway there were a few different ones that I was looking at and I wanted some opinions on them. Here are the ones I was looking at: JVC KDHDR20 JVC KD-HDR50 Kenwood KDC-MP242 Sony CDXGT540UI I'm also open to suggestions. Thanks. By the way, I have a Chevrolet Malibu.

Hey guys, going to be replacing my "200a" alternator, why, because well, I just found out that it reaches it's peak at 5000rpm..lmao Anyways, new system will be ~2500RMS with a total of 260a's of fuses. 200 (mono) + 60 (2chan) What size alternator should I be looking at, would a 200a that reaches peak @ 1500rpm be OK? Or should I go bigger?

Hello SSA! Does anyone know if 12v 400 amp circuit breakers exist and where to get them? I've got a 300a breaker on the main 2/0 power wire coming from the alternator and front battery then going back to 5 Deka group 31 batts. At about 2/3 power with music, the breaker kicks. And for those who are curious, I'm running 6 BTL 15's on 6 SAZ-3500D's. DB

i have a jl slash 1000/1 connected to a yellow top battery but have ran into problems w the distrubution blocks that keep melting only the side that has the wire going into my amp will melt.. i use to have 4 gauge wire than upgraded to 0 and am still having the same probblem would it be the amp? or a grounding probblem?

I just noticed the other day that when I hit the nav. button on my 8120 it just goes to a black screen. The rest of the 8120 seems to be working perfectly.... except for the blacked out nav. screen. I know that the Garmin nav. on the 8120 is hard drive based so I'm wondering if the HD has crashed or died..... I tried resetting the unit but still no luck. Anyone else run across or heard of this issue before? I'm calling Kenwood on Monday but just looking for ideas first.