Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Ok, so i put my amp in advance and if anyone has experience with the t30001bd the top for some reason doesnt get tight. Any idea what i can do to stop the top from rattling?

What is this Big 3 upgrade i keep hearing about? Thanks

Hey I have a crappy voltmeter from an autoparts store locally that my friend hooked up a year ago to who knows where in the front of the car, I think to a fuse for power just so i have an idea of my voltage.. But I am about to purchase a new stinger voltmeter as I am about to add a new Kinetik hc1400 up front and decided I want a more accurate reading of voltage for my Sundown amp. I was just wondering how you guys wire these up to get a good readout of the voltage? (I guess at the amp?.. ) I'm assuming you would want the voltage at the amp to see how much power the amp is actually getting?.. correct me if im wrong about what voltage i want to read.. so basically I was j…

Just recently went from 2 ohms to .5 ohms on my Crescendo 3500d and I heard that if you wire down you should always turn down the gain from where you had it originally. I'm really not sure if this is even remotely correct but I did it anyway to be on the safe side. I was just curious if someone could help me out.

I just got off the phone with Ohio Gen, for a 95 Honda Accord they are suggesting $525 + shipping for a 160amp (195peak amp) alternator. Is this a good price? And I got a quote from Dom for $400 +shipping for a 200amp alternator, but have heard many GOOD and many BAD stories about his alts. And I haven't had a call back from EA yet about a quote on an alt. Which would you choose? Thanks, Curt

i have a hifonics bxi1600, and i know no one likes them very much but im hoping you can answer some of my questions. my friend just got a 15" BL daul 2 ohm and after awhile i amp will turn off for about a minute but it is still lit up just very dim. i am runninh 4 gauge wire and i want to know if maybe it is because my amp isnt getting enough power and i should go for 2 gauge wire thanks

I bought a 50 farad Stinger capacitor (dont make the whole cap vs battery argument thats not what im here for) and it came with instructions on how to install it using 2 amps, but i need the diagram to hook up 1 amp to it i need to figure out where i wire it up, it has 2 + and 2 - connectons and i cannot figure out which one is input and which is output i have correct grounds, atl, and wiring and it still dims with an fi bl12 and 1500 amp, please help me wire it up Patrick

well we built a wall, the amp is currently fairly far away form the subs, about 6 feet of speaker wire goes to each sub, we are currently using cheap 14 gauge speaker wire LOL, but we are pulling a 152.7@1800 watts clamped, my guess is we would gain quite a bit by changing out speaker wire, what would you guys recomend? there are 4 dd 1500 series 12" subs hooked up to a planet audio 3000 wired to half ohm in a wall. looking for the best speaker wire that will transfer the power most effectivly for the long 6 ft run. thanks, Anton Miller

In the coming weeks, I'm going to need to install: MB Quart 5.25 component set, Orion 8002, Orion 1200D, and ReSX 15" into a Mazda 6. For anyone that has seen the stock HU on the 6, You'll know that I'm NOT replacing it. I'm not gonna cut and glass a new console cover for just a HU, not too mention that we would lose functionality of a in dash LCD display (showing ambient temp, radio station / disc info), as well as inset steering wheel controls. To top it off, this car belongs to somone who cares very little about the SQ & control gains of a nice aftermarket HU. Plan is to tap the rear door speaker leads and run them into an EQ/Xover preamp. I'd rather have a EQ/X…

My friend is getting 2 15" RE MT's? hes getting a 3000Watt amp to add to his 1700watt amp and he wants to get 2 more batteries, but he apperently has a 15.3volt alternator?

AB 4ch amps for SQ purpose? which is over the other? overall performance...

Is it ok to run the voice coils of the woofer to each channel on a 2 channel amp for a 2ohmx2 dvc woofer. I have my amp bridged. I have the woofer wired in parallel. but my amp is not 1 ohm stable, and a friend told me to do this. will there be any problems if i do this. please help

just making a general positive statement I recently loaned out my Z800 Ultradrive to a buddy because he melted his Kenwood (ups has it) (they say 225 x 2 @4 and 450 x 1 @ 4, but a shop speced it at 513 or something in that range) and it is a class A/B amp and is not reccomended, like many others, to go below 2 ohms stereo or 4 ohms mono, so what do we do? we wire it up at 1.5ohms mono for giggles, and WHAT THE CRAP :musik05: it played fine, and it still is now a few days later, the top mounted fan it whirling like a foo and the heat sink is getting warm but the amp is holding

So to get any decent volume out of my new sub, i have to have the gain on my new amp really high.....too high and the bass boost up pretty far too. I know the RCAs arent the best, and its a sony HU.....but still, any ideas?

i have a 10" RL-i D4 on the way, now i'm trying to choose and amp. goals were... 1: no more than $250 with shipping tacked on. would like to make it less if i could, but if the choice means paying that much than so be it. 2: a minimum of 500rms at 2ohm. sub will be in a optimum recommend size sealed box which i believe was .65 cu.ft. i have done lot of searching and reading reviews and posts with people giving their opinions, not only here, but other places. i have it down to these choices. Cadence TXA-1000D Hifonics TXi 7506 Phoenix Gold R8.0:1 Phoenix Gold Ryval V8001 Infinity REF611A Alpine MRP-M650 again, cheaper would be better, but from what i remember of Phoenix …

I have a G190 and wonder how clean it is, I replaced amp and drivers when I dropped it in so could not compare much. I had a nak and it was really clean. Just wondering if I should swap it out as I can not get the new HU I want yet. Parametric on this alpine works nice. My highs are lacking and I think it is the amp, but wanted to ask what luck others had running one of these. I went to this for the fader and parametric it has, and still can do all my crossovers and gains from driver seat.

I am somewhat new at this and feel I need to run more batteries, this was also recommended by a stereo shop near where I live however they would charge an arm and a leg to do the job. I was wondering on how to do this, I was thinking parallel, but I was wondering how both batteries keep charged....... Thank you Jonathan Thompson

i am looking to get 1 icon 12 but i am not sure where to start looking for an amp. Any suggestions?

I plan on ordering 4 ethos 15s for a 4th order blowthrough I was wondering if anyone had suggestions on what amp I should go with I like two 3500s but I don't think ssa has them in stock and isn't they dont when will they? And I like the ct sounds 7000 but I would rather something a little cheaper any suggestions will help

Amps that have a clip light ie sundown is that light accurate? What's safe a small flash a little fast fashing solid red? Gain was check with a oscope and a dd1 in the past.. Still clip light comes on

I am looking for an amp to run a pair of icons, would need to put out between 1500-2200 @ 1 or 2 or 4 ohms depending on which VC configuration. these are my choices so far 1) Sundown SAZ-1500d @ 1ohm 2) US Amps Merlin MD3 (2000w) @ 1 ohm 3) Hifonics Colossus @ 4 ohms bridged (2000w) 2) 2x Kicker ZX1000 now i will be running an HC1400 under the hood, with a Batcap 800 in the trunk(next best thing to a battery cause i am trying to keep it somewhat light), 1/0 throughout, Big 3, 10 additional 4amg grounds on chassis. the car only has a 110 amp alt. stock, so i am looking for the most efficient amp possible. From what i remember the kickers seem to fall on the less efficient …

I'M NEW TO THIS KIND OF SETUP SO IF I MISPRONOUNCE CERTAIN ABREVIATIONS, PLEASE FORGIVE ME, BUT HERE'S THE LOW DOWN....... I'M OVERSEAS RIGHT NOW IN THE AIR FORCE TRYING TO GET EVERYTHING FOR MY SYSTEM SO WHEN I RETURN, I CAN BRING EVERYTHING TOGETHER BUT THIS IS TRUELY MY FIRST TIME PUTTING A SYSTEM THIS LARGE TOGETHER SO I COULD USE AND USEFUL ADVICE U HAVE FOR ME. MY FIRST QUESTION IS.... 1. HOW DO I RUN MY BATTERIES AND IS THERE A DIAGRAM IN WHICH I COULD FOLLOW 2. FOR EACH ONE OF MY AMPS, DO I NEED TO RUN A SEPERATE CIRCUIT BREAKER? 3. DO I RUN THE POWER WIRE FROM THE ALTERNATOR OR FROM THE POSITIVE POST ON MY STOCK BATTERY WHICH IS A DURALAST MAXX YELLOW BATTERY? MY…

i was just curious on what you guys thought....im wanting to get a voltmeter and ive looked at stinger meters....but i was thinking about the autometer analog gauge...(ive got a spot on a gauge pod)...but i didnt know how acurate they are/other peoples opinion

Hey guys well I want to clean up the wiring behind my head unit a little bit. I have the aswc1 for steering wheel controls, antenna adapter which has a power wire, and the remote wire from my amp. All this is tied into the head units wiring harness. Is this too much on the factory harness? Should I run some additional wires, just looking for some opinions here?

So anyway, my brother owns a towing business/ Car parts yard (aka junk yard) ... And he acquires many things. So he acquired one of those industrial sized Optima Yellow tops and a Regular Optima yellow top. I am building my system and a battery was my next step. He gave them both to me, and I was wondering if I should keep them or sell them and put in a large Powermaster or something??? Both are brand new, still in the plastic rappers