Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

hey guys, i'm here to get some help with deciding whether or not to get a dash kit for an 08 accord for a new HU, but i'm having trouble seeing if the top screen and the steering wheel controls will still be active after putting in a new HU. here's what the inside of the car looks like. And here's the scosche kit Looks like it will fit in nicely, but i'm more concerned about whether or top screen where the radio station, tracks etc. are shown, will stay active or will be all shown through the new HU. Thanks for the help guys.

what is everyones opinion on the kenwood kdc-x790?

i want to get a FI Q 15 with BP and want to power it with a Bxi-1206D and then get a pdx100.4 for my speakers. just wondering what i would need to do to run it all and if i am ok with stock alternator??

im upgrading my battery, and im obviously wondering if theres some kind of limit as to how many amps the new batt could be before i start damaging the alt? and do bigger batteries NEED a big alt or would say a 1500 amp batt be ok with a 120amp alt? i guess i just need a batt that my alt can actually recharge.... im really clueless when it comes to batteries and alts any help is greatly appreciated!

Hey guys, I think there are more Alpine HUs that can run the PXA-H701, but here's the list I'm working off: CDA-9887 good HU 4 volt outputs only $270 if I don't want to play DVDs...great buy All the DVDs only have 2 volt rather than 4 volt. I know most think it doesnt matter..whatever. Price jumps double to go DVD with a screen W200 looks fine, $500 W205 adds optical output, would I use this? $575 D105 the one I was really interested in cuz it plays DviX!! Can't find any on eBay!! D106 $670 I don't see much option change to add all the cost to all of these. So I am deciding either 9887 if not DVD cuz its so much cheaper, W200 if the addition of optical out wont be used, b…

Whats everyone running for splitters? i have a Kenwood head unit with 3-preouts and i have them ran to my Clarion Eq which then runs to my soundstream amp. My problem is the shitty walmart splitters aren't holding up whats a good set of splitters to get?

I'm planning on buying a new starting battery for my suv. I'm running sa15's on a hifonics brutus elite 1600. I plan on doing the big 3 in the process. I just need to know what would be a good battery to put up front. I would like to do the big 3 and a new battery up front and then put a second one in the back. My budget is around $200 give or take

Ok so I'm running two sundown sa12's vented at 38hz 2.0 cb per sub on a saz 1200d whats probably the lowest I could safely run my ssf?

I currently am running 2 amps, 1 for comps and 1 for sub. It totals 1300rms. So, I would need about a 130a fuse as a estimate, correct? I'm gonna upgrade the big 3 and get a HO alt. I don't really know jack about amps and all that. My question is, can somebody help me figure out what size alt to get? Would a 200a be sufficient? I drive a 97 Exploder 6cyl and I think the stock alt is 95a. Any help is greatly appreciated

i have a 2010 Nissan Frontier with a 110a alt. right now i have an saz-1000d and 180w 4 channel amp on stock electrical with very minimal headlight dimming at full tilt. will the big three and a kinetik hc2000 near my amp be enough for me to run a crescendo bc2000 and my 4 channel?

What is the difference between a kicker zx.1500, saz-1500d, and a rockford fosgate T1500-1bd?

Hi Guys, Any recommended Head Unit for SPL application, I'm currently using Alpine 9887 and the buttons fades easily. So I'm leaning towards pioneer for my next H.U. I know DEX-P99RS is the best bet but I can't afford it right now. Any suggestion? My budget is $600. Thanks

due to an exploded turbo i need to dig into my truck so id like to fix some wiring. i have some runs of 0ga that i would like ot not throw away but perhaps combine into one long run or do some light extension to them to route them better. how should i combine 2 sets of 0ga cable? my first thought is to but the ends together and solder them, then wrap with shrink or tape. secondly have any of you run wires in the frame rails and pulled them up into cab in back instead of running through the fire wall and under the carpet? what are your thoughts and recommendations on this method?

Used Birthsheet 2960rms $375 shipped is the price what do u guys think?

Does anyone have any experience with them. Specifically the ZAPCO ST-4X. I would post a link but I don't know how.

Im about to run 2 SS 12" subs and a 2000 watt amp( what kind undecided i would appreciate suggestions). I wanted to know if i should possible upgrade my alternator or any other kind of problem i might have to ensure the sound. Also I have no Idea what kind of box I should build what do yall think? im getting the dual 2 ohm subs so suggestions on boxes are also appreciated. Thanks in Advance, Colt

So the plan right now is to pick up (2) 12" SSDs for the new car. Originally I was going to power them with a SAZ-1500D and call it a day. Now I have been pondering the idea of powering them with 2 SAE-1000Ds for a little extra juice and a little overhead. I just don't know if the price difference is worth it. So the question is which do you think I should do? I've heard the 1500D is underrated with the right electrical, but will I get more out of this setep with the 2000W? Thanks in advance.

I think while my truck is in rebuild mode I will go ahead and upgrade or change to a newer unit. I love the alpine but want to look at something different. Looking at the deh-80prs or the avh-P8400bh. Sq wise the 80 looks like the choice but im sure I would be happy with either. Any other good dd units out there? This is what I have now and will be letting go cheap to anyone interested http://www.crutchfield.com/S-lCerWQCN13n/p_500IVAW200/Alpine-IVA-W200.html#details-tab I want good control of eq and options for hpf and lpf. Any other opinions? I have a alpine 600 watt 4 channel that will cover the mids and highs unless I pick up an additional small 2 channel just for t…

so i got an iraggi alt about a month ago and the battery indicator light(on the dash) was on the whole time, it died on me after 5 days, so i sent it back to iraggi. i installed a stock alt, everything was perfect, the batt light wasn't on. then i got the replacement alt from iraggi, got it installed and now the batt light is on again. the voltage is about 14.2. upgraded big 3 is this normal? its for a 2000 ford explorer sport 4.0L SOHC 240/165amp Amputator series Iraggi Alternator Optima Yellowtop(under the hood) Kinetik hc2400

Hey guys, As mentioned I'm soon to be upgrading my system and Id like to get your opinions on if I'm on the right track here. Ill start off by what I already have: Car: 2000 Honda CR-V Battery: XS D5100R Big 3: Done with 1/0 Wiring: 2 Runs of 4 gauge to amps Amps: Rockford Fosgate T1000bd and T400-2 Speakers: 2 Alpine type S's up front and 2 JBL GTO 628's in the rear Sub: SSA Xcon D2 15 in a sealed enclosure. As expected I have bad Voltage drop down into the 11's. I will be strengthening my electrical shorty. Short term goals: 1. Add another Xcon and port the enclosure. I am considering doing a wall and sealing off behind and around the rear seats. 2. Replace t…

lately my kicker zx1000.1 has been acting wierd, when i first set everything up, it sounded great, then, not so great. before the sub was broken in ( a 12'' fi fully loaded bl in a 2.25 cu ft box tuned at 32 hz), i had the gains set and everything with the dmm. now, at the same voltage, my sub sounds like its distorting badly, and i have to turn the gain all the way down. my hu's setting are set to -2 of all bass enhancement. and im not using the bass knob for the amp either. do fi bl's sound like this when theyre broken in? i know there more of a spl type sub made to get loud, but i have only had 2 other subs so i may just be overreacting. any help guys?

Just got my friend to pick up a audiopipe 1500 today, heard it is a decent budget amp. Notice it has no fuses, the guy tells me it needs external fuses. I understand what that means, but is there a distance from the amp these need to be? a certain amp rating they need to be? will the main fuse coming off the batt under the hood running to the amp be sufficient? just want to make sure i get this right before helping him install. thanks

I'm looking for a new battery to replace my stock battery. I have 0 gauge wire for my power and ground. I'm running a soundqubed 1200d amplifier with a 15" Fi SSD in a 2.5cuft sealed enclosure. I've been looking at the Kinetik KHC2400

I guess i've decided to get a new battery, and need to know what is adequate and still cheap for my system... I have a clarion 1500 watt amp and stock battery under the hood in a 2000 honda accord. If I run a second battery to the trunk is a kinetik hc800 enough to get the job done(stay above at least 11v) or do I need more and who makes the best cheap batteries? My local shop has a used stinger sp1700 out of their demo van for only 200, that may be the way to go but im hoping to spend less if possible Please and thanks for replies

okay, so where to start.. I have a AQ2200 in my GMC S15 ext cab. The other day it was working perfect, i unhooked the amp (while batt disconected) and took it out because i was removing my seats+subs w/box and going to shampoo the seats and where the amp is located i didnt want the seat brackets to bang/hit against the amp. Well i cleaned everything and put everything back in and everything LOOKED like it was working fine but.. there was no sound comming from my speakers... so, i recheck all my wires.. once, twice, and a third time.. i unhooked and hooked the wires to the amp again.. no sound. I switched the + & - speaker wires in different inputs of the amp.. no soun…