Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

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I just picked up an amp off a buddy of mine, and 2 of the allen head screws to tighten down the speaker wires are stripped. Was just wondering if any of you knew where to pick those up at individually? I'd rather get phillips head screws to replace them so I don't have to hunt down an allen set everytime I need to adjust something. Thanks

i was driving home last night and plugged my phone into the usb and nothing happened , but i just drove home with the radio on and didnt pay much attention. i went out today to mess with it and the usb will say its charging my phone but usb and pandora wont show up on the cd player. i kept scrolling through the sources and now when i scroll through them the cd player just shuts off. any ideas how to fix this?

1rst is my old USAcoustics 2200f plans for it will be for tweeters 200X2 @ 4ohms 2nd is A newly bought (brand new in box) USAcoustics 2300f planed for mids 300X2 @ 4ohms 3rd is A Sundown Audio unnamed prototype for the sub stage 1400 @ 1ohm If you haven't guessed it I have plans to go active but that could be a long ways away as money is kinda tight. But it should be a fun project. I will be posting for some recommendations for speakers but that is a long ways away as I need to get the electrical built up and some sound deadening first.

looking for the biggest oem fit alternator for a honda civic. i dont mind going up to 200 amp but there not a direct fit. and looking for a single wire alternator as well.

So can u guys tell me which head units u think are better sound quality wise and features. I'm goin to get either a pioneer premier or kenwood excelon and idk whch one to get. My friends tell me kenwood isn't any good but I hear from experienced car audio technicians that kenwood makes better head units than premier. I was looking to get the Kenwood Excelon KDC-X693 or the Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB. They are both around the same price and all advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Nick

Does anyone have any idea what the saz-3500d would put out watt wise at 1.33ohm while being fed 12v?

could i go wire straight from the alternator to the battery in the rear? the alt would also still be wired to the front battery as well. the car im installing is an 2000 honda accord. would i need to fuse after the alternator and before the batery in the rear? in my head this would work but ive never done it this way before...

Copied from earlier post below by Shizzzon. quick answer- A cap will discharge EVERYTHING in it's bank when a rush of current is requested... A battery will compensate for the current requested when the alternator can't or the regulator doesn't react fast enough. If you could.. try and imagine your battery going completely dead then back to recharging every other few seconds?!?! You can't imagine that at all.. So, you got your alt, a big battery bank and a big ass cap- The cap will ALWAYS be getting drained and recharged all the time... What's recharging it? The alternator... When it's doing that, it's providing less power to the audio system which results in more voltage…

In testing for competition, MECA enforces fuse sizes for specific divisions in your class. In testing, if you are trying to pull 2-3x the fuse rating of your inline fuses.. and they keep popping, can that damage the amp? I haven't started yet but i was thinking the amps would be susceptible to low voltage conditions at high volume when the fuses pop and could eventually cause damage, maybe immediately. Is this true?

Anybody have any suggestions, pros or cons about this? I have a nice JVC (forget the model#) that has a bad a@@ equalizer and five volt preouts, and basicly everything I want in a headunit. I've done a lot of research on here and in general about line drivers, some people swear by them and some say they are a waste of money. Anyways I came across an Audio Control video that explained the said line driver and they were saying that like power wire rca's tend to lose a little power with longer runs and could possibly pick up noise and such. In general I'm looking to get just the cleanest signal I can get and was wondering if i could get that by adding this piece? I'm not wor…

I am looking for 4/0 wire. any recommendations for this type of wire. and where to get it

anyone think this would work in a lincoln, well duh it would but there is a wire that goes from the alt to the batt, right ok do i just splice the wires and wire them together and connect it if i ws going to do this??? i think this is the only way i'm going to get 250amps atleast so my car wont kill over... if i ever decide to do it i'll post some pics.... at the moment i need to find a engine, because my brother F***** up the one already in their.. :angry:

Alpine, Eclipse, Clarion, or Panasonic... ...in the $150-$250 range.

I'm wondering the best thing I can do to help my situation. It's been ridiculously hot here in San Antonio this summer and my SAE-1200D just isn't taking the heat well at all. My Cadence TXA1000D never had a problem but I guess with the extra power this SAE has the heat is causing trouble. The amp gets VERY hot to the touch and after a while goes into protect. At first I thought I had a problem with the subs cause they would make a strange noise before shutting off but it cuts out even when my HU is paused so I don't think I have a subwoofer problem. Maybe mount something like 2 120mm fans on the bottom of the amp? How would I hook those up? Just wire them to the power/gr…

i was wondering if i could run a small jumper wire from the power input on my amp to the rem? something happened in my headunit and the rem doesnt work ive tried rewiring it and wiring it to different wires and my old amp had different settings for turn on so i was fine there. just wondering if i can run a jumper wire from positive to the rem

its from IKESound and we are crazy tight with cash now.. but I thought I would pass this on to everyone else, (yes there is an ebay specials topic but this one is pretty big) http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MB-Quart-QAA2500-2...1QQcmdZViewItem anyone able to track down some more info on this model since the website does not admit to ever making amplifers..

I am posting this topic for a friend. I cannot figure out what is wrong with this thing. Here is what is going on. Voltage remains steady. When subs are off the front speakers do not cut out reguardless of volume. When the subs are on the front speakers cut out at higher volumes. I disconnected one speaker at a time at the amp and ran each speaker separately and they front left cut out when connected and the front right cut out when connected. I checked all the connections near the amp and everything seems to be fine. The gains are also set below normal. What could be wrong? The amplifier is not bad because it would have cut out with the subs off.

Does Audioque e-mail you or send you any tracking info when you order from them, because I bought my 2200d the same day I bought my wiring kit and the kit is sitting next to me. I have gotten nothing from Audioque at all. I'm calling them tomorrow, but before I do I just want to know what their policy is.

Hey everyone, I need a distribution block that will input 1/0 gauge wire and output two 4 gauge wires and two 8 gauge wires. Or alternatively a distribution block that will input a 1/0 gauge wire and output three 4 gauge wires then another block that will input a 4 gauge wire and output two 8 gauge wires. But what I'm thinking, is just for a little more money I can get a second battery, hook the 1/0 gauge up to the positive post, then hook all the other wires up to the positive post without a need for the distribution blocks. I'd be spending just a little more money (the smallest powermaster battery on ebay is about $90..not sure if that'd even be beneficial) but I'd b…

So I have a very annoying problem and need some advice on how to address it! It seems that I have some serious static noise from the radio. I've done some intensive testing over the weekend, and come to one conclusion. Is that the noise is coming directly from the radio itself. I will list some of the things I've done over the weekend to come to this conclusion. Swap the amplifier for a known good amplifier, problem presist Swap radio with known good radio, problem goes away Swap my rca's into a known good amp(different vehicle), problem goes away Swap rca's from known good radio from another vehicle into my radio, problem is now in that vehicle Ground rca to headunit c…

Alright dont have much cash but what are some of the best headunits out there that are around $200. Please tell me why it would be a good choice.

I have a 2004 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.7L V6 and it comes stock with a 90amp alt BUT Im pretty sure if im running 2 15in Fi BL's ill need one right? I bought a Soundstream 1000amp hybrid capacitor but I dont know it that wil be enough if im running those speakers on the Kicker zx2500.1. Just checking with yall to see and make sure... dont wanna mess up anything you know? If you guys think ill still need one do you have any suggestions? I checked that Irragas store but they didn't have one for my car =(

I have a 08 xB with a regular wet-cell in front. I'm going to run a Sundown 1500D. I can get a pretty good price on a Kinetik HC600, would it make a difference, or should I save my money?

Finally got an email back from Fi, and they recommended an American Bass VFL amp. First time hearing about these. I've done some searching and they sound great. The problem I have is where to get these at a good price and from a respectable company/person. The prices on the net are all over the place. I was initially set on getting a Sundown amp, but now these. Any links would greatly help, I need a Christmas present for myself