Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I will be needing to purchase either a 160 amp alt. or a 8-20 fared cap. eventually both. I have a voltage drop problem. My current alternator is only 80 amps. my amp , I think has 4 20 amp fuses, its a soundstream tr880/2. My headlights dim quite a bit. Would a 8 or 20 fared cap fix the problem well enough to forget an alternator. I can get a 20 fared soundstream cap on ebay for $169 new, $129 for the 8. Or should I go with the 160 amp alt. Which would be more effective. Most people I've seen have only a 1.5, 2, or the biggest I've seen in a car was a 4 fared. What do you know or think? This guy at a audio shop told me that if I were to replace all the major ground wire…

Whew... Got my new head unit installed as well as the steering control module, thanks to the help of Electrodynamic. Looks good but the installation of the steering control module (PAC SWI-ALP) was a little more involved than I anticipated. Still very happy will post pics soon!! PS- Sounds really good.

IM NEW TO THE AMP AND SUB GAME AND I HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS I PLAN ON BUYING A 12" BTL AND HIFONICS 2010 WATT BRUTUS AMP IM WONDERING WHAT AMP KIT WOULD BE BEST FOR THIS SETUP WOULD I NEED TO BUY A CAPACITOR AND/OR UPGRADE MY ALTERNATOR AND WHERE COULD I FIND SAMPLE BOX SPECS FOR IT BECAUSE I HAVE NO CLUE HOW OR WHAT TO BUILD SUB BOXS SUGGESTIONS FOR HEAD UNITS I APPRECIATE THE HELP..

Has anyone heard of concorde sun xtender batteries? Someone local to me is selling some and was wondering if they would be the same as any agm battery for car audio.. could get a good deal on them for the amount of amp hours they are. Just never heard of them before. Any input is appreciated

I have a Power Acoustik A2400DB (1800w rms @1ohm) to push my 15"s. I just want to know if this will work fine with them?

a friend sold his rf power 800.2 to another friend. this is the same 800.2 that we used to run a pair of 15" id spl's at 4 ohm stereo (the subs were dual 2) and it beat the hell outa them... now the new owner says the amp is smoked..literally...yet when i pulled the case, there was no smoke/fire damage..hell, not even a hint of overheating really. the new owner is running 2 subs, one a he2 that is dual 4, one a boston that is a single 4. he runs everything parallel and bridged...this totals a 1.3 ohm load, correct? i say that the amp is just going into protect...i mean it is just 4 ohm stable bridged, correct? he says i'm full of shit and that the amp is messed up. we hav…

just thinking, why do we still use head units? we are taking digital signals from streaming/flac/wave files on a phone or usb stick and converting that to analog just to convert it back to digital at the dsp... are there any head units out there that just go digital to a dsp rather than the extra conversion step? i was considering a carputer to just do source and dsp all in one via software and a soundcard up front

Hey ok i have a question about multliple runs of wire from a battery in front to batter in rear to amp. Would i just go from + on batery in front to + on battery in back, and - from battery in front to - in battery in back the + from battery in back to + in amp, and - on battery in back to - on amp. Then ground the neg at front. Heres a pic of what i mean (the boxs on the + wire are fuses) Also say i wanted to do two runs of 1/0 would i do 2 + and 2 negatives between the batterys and then just do 1 run of 1/0 to the amp? Thanks for the help! hope i made a little bit of sense, please let me know whatever i did wrong im open to suggestions!

i guess you guys got the topic right since iggy knows all about big head units man, the forum is dead so i am just being a bored post whore

well i got my sub in today for my little mini build im doing and now i need to decide what amp i should go with to power it. the sub is a Fi SSD 12 D1 with BP cooling. I was thinking of running around 900-1000 rms to it at 2 ohms. So the question is what amp would you guys think would be good for this? The budget on this isn't much. probably around 200-225. thanks

ok i bought a lanzer 2400 watt max pro amp to power 2 rl-i8 form soundsplinter. I know that amp is not the best but for 140 shipped wasn't bad so what ya

hi guys this is my set-up, I purchased a new hifonics BXI1210D from vminovations to connect to my set of pioneer ts308D4 at 1 ohm in a dual ported box, should i be alright? any tips in makin my install better? Any good ideas on setting the gain or any other settings? current set up on my Ford 1995 Explorer 4 dr -kenwood mpc205 HU with 2volts at the sub preout -2 12" 308D4 pioneer 400rms each, final impedance is 1 ohm -Ported box at 1.65-1.70 cu per chamber (rough estimate) -4 gauge wiring from ebay -1000 cold cranking amp everstart battery from walmart -partial big 3, 4 gauge from + battery to + on alternator -80 amp fuse 12 inches from battery -level 1/2 up, LPF 1/3 u…

my amp has been magnetized sitting in my closet for a few days. screws and tools will get pulled to it...is this a bad thing?

i have a 10" RL-i D4 on the way, now i'm trying to choose and amp. goals were... 1: no more than $250 with shipping tacked on. would like to make it less if i could, but if the choice means paying that much than so be it. 2: a minimum of 500rms at 2ohm. sub will be in a optimum recommend size sealed box which i believe was .65 cu.ft. i have done lot of searching and reading reviews and posts with people giving their opinions, not only here, but other places. i have it down to these choices. Cadence TXA-1000D Hifonics TXi 7506 Phoenix Gold R8.0:1 Phoenix Gold Ryval V8001 Infinity REF611A Alpine MRP-M650 again, cheaper would be better, but from what i remember of Phoenix …

Here's a few pics of my MB QUART ONX1.1000D amp. I got it at sonic electronix for 150 shipped. It puts out 1000 watts rms at 1 ohm. I put in a pic of the amp guts since there aren't many of this amp online

the alpine 9887 vs the pioneer p880prs... which would be the better choice? or is there other worthwhile h/u to look into... budget is 300-550 as of now leaning towards pioneer since ive never had a problem w/ my current one

Everything working fine until just a second ago. Move the amp and battery around a little (Shuriken BT100 and RD 1750.1D) because they move when I drive which I hate and am looking to fix somehow...but pretty much all I did was increase the subsonic filter a little from like 20 to 23hz, turned the car on and no power to the sub........amp light is on no protection. Checked power connections and everything is fine. Fuse rating for the amp is 4x40amp but I'm assuming they are inside the amp as I cannot see them on the exterior. My only thought at this point is that when a small piece of wire protruding from the amp ground to the amp power that it zapped a fuse? I saw a spa…

im looking for a head unit for my gfs explorer she is wanting a dvd havnt decided if its gonna be double din or flip out single din i have found the alpine ktp445 which it was told was like a mini amp that i could use for my components maybe and was wondering if i could just match the the wires by colors from that to whatever headunit i wanted weather it be pioneer kenwood etc etc. and i was wanting to get some of ur guys input on different headunits and as to why u like them. the only thing we are looking for is if it plays dvds and an ipod can hook up too. price range isnt a big deal right now but wanted it under 800 if we can and be able to change songs on the screen …

While looking around at H/U's Saw this on Chrutchfield. Looks pretty interesting. Opinions? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_333ASTRDSM/Parrot-ASTEROID-Smart.html

Which is the best solder type?

I'm looking at an alpine class D sub amp and wondered if anyone has used them. Its the smaller 301 but might maybe be large enough for me not sure. Anyway, it looks to have a parametric eq in it even...that would be nice. Anyone used them? I guess I'm wondering if one would work ok for my sort of SQ system, instead of an older class AB that takes more power. My kicker class d seems to work ok, but assume the Alpine is better quality yet.

I have found these locally for one hell of a deal. I have read mixed reviews on them and was wondering if you would buy them to use. They are brand new and can get them for around 100 a piece. Here is the link to them http://www.cdstandbypower.com/application/...ups/upshrm.html. The ones the guy has are spec'd as follows: sealed agm 95ah at 20hr rate, 350watt at 15min. Now I know these are'nt powermasters, but the slide easily into budget and actually let me buy more fuse holders and wire if they'll work. thanks.

any know if this puts out rated power has to 80amp fuses so 1 would think it would put out rated but just want to make sure thans for the help .will be running off my stock batt with ho 170amp alt and knu 1/0 with big 3

A few hours ago I put a Sony Head unit in my friends car. Not sure what model; her parents took it out of their old car. Once it was wired up, we tested it. The tuner was coming in static-y or not at all, depending on how we moved the antenna wire around. It was a 2000 corolla and didn't require an antenna adapter. The cd function and aux function work fine and sounds clear. They listened to fm radio with the factory HU on the way here, with no problem. Any ideas?

i have been trying to decide between these for a while. since i'm new here i thought i'd see what you guys perfer. 1)pioneer avic d3 - almost bought this one. i like pioneer, love how it looks, don't care about the single slot since i don't care about nav. the 2v preout thing killed it though. 2)eclipe avn5510 - the only thing that keeps me from buying this is thinking i can get something just as good for cheaper. 3)jvc kw-avx800 - the underdog. features look great, don't care about nav, the price is right. but its a jvc... thoughts/suggestions?