Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Two AudioPipe AP 30001Ds.

I am working to expand our amplifier offerings, while staying high quality, somewhat unique, and affordable. First up looks like a class-A/B 6 channel. No crossover network, individual gains, 150watts x 6, will keep footprint as small as possible for the design, similar appearance to the current models. Feeling out interest as it will effect the total amps I put into production. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ As a side note, I am considering a 2-channel of the same line, but the demand for 2 channels right now are so low. Would not really want to build them if they are going to sit for a while. Just curious on any inp…

Anyone know?

ok so i have heard that i need to do the big three and not get a cap i have a few questions regarding this though i have a bmw and the battery is in the trunk, so do i still need to run the alt to batt wire with fuse? i mean stock is a 4 gauge and since stock is 4 gauge everywhere will the big three help at all? or do i just need to buy a new battery my car dims a lot with a small 300w system and i have a new battery and alternator everything is grounded correctly and i run 4 gauge and 16 for the subs Patrick

i wanna see some opinions on yellow top batts vs kinetik? im soon gonna be in the market for 2 new batts(one in front and one in back). you can see what im running in my sig. thanks for any suggestions.

So.. I don't use any of this new bullshit, i keep it old school with audiocontrol stuff that does not mess up. Resistor packs and things to sifts slopes and crossover points.. What is a good deck now that actually has the capability of a H-701 processor or the likes there of? I'm drawing a blank... Any suggestions would be great! Thanks! -Nick

I normally like to try to figure things out by my own but I'm not sure how to solve this problem. My front speakers are making high frequency noises that get higher as my RPM increases ever since installing a different amplifier. This is what I've done to try to isolate the problem/ information that may help: 1) Amplifier = JBL gtq200 2) speakers = Boston Acoustic pro60se 3) Before putting the speakers on the JBL, they worked fine for months. 4) I used the same set of RCA's on both the JBL and my other speaker amp (Pioneer). The Pioneer did not recreate the whine. 5) Also used a different set of RCA's on the JBL which did nothing to lessen the whine. 6) More gain on amp =…

can anyone recommend me a decent budget amp for an xcon? I've been getting a lot of tickets I don't have money for a sundown right now.. any feedback is appreciated.

Ok this is the 2nd time in about 6 months this has happens. First time I just wrote it off and replaced what was needed.. Now I'm wondering why.. I noticed my voltage acting funny as if my alt wasn't charging. Pop the hood and I've melted the wire that I have put between alt and battery. Like I said...2nd time same spot. I have a pos db alternator 220a ho alt. I used knu cca 1/0 for a pretty short run between alt and bat positive. Fused with a 250a fuse. Battery is a kinetik hc2000. 1st time 2nd time Both times the fuse did not blow. The fuse holder isn't next to anything hot enough to do that kind of damage. Now I only drive this vehicle maybe three times a month so …

right now, i have 2 12" kicker CVRs, in a ported box, with a kenwood 600w amp. i had a xplod 1000w, but when it got too hot, it cut off and i couldnt do anything.but the kenwood still cuts out, but i can keep listening but at a low volume. but i went to the pawn today, and i found a few bigger amps... which would be the best? Almani 1500w Class "D" Kenwood 800w (mines kenwood 600w) Infinity 1600w Power Acoustic 1600w kenwood looks real small,the power acoustic is the biggest in size,if any of that matters, and almani sounds good with its class "d" thing, and is second biggest in size. but i dunno what that means.

I'm looking for a good head unit that has time alignment. Unfortunately, this will be my first head unit purchase (used stock with special wiring harness) and as such I have no idea where to start. I really love the look of the Pioneer 800PRS, but they're discontinued. I do care a lot about aesthetics, but I want something that sounds great and will let me run my ID CTX65cs active and use time alignment, PEQ, and all the other normal goodies. My budget is about $300, but possibly can be extended for the right equipment. I don't have any problem buying used as long as it is "good as new".

I need to pick out an amp for my front stage. As of right now the vehicle is bone stock..I've purchased a set of 6.5 components (fosgate power t1's). I plan to run them using the supplied passive crossovers in stock locations. Have no plans to run an active setup anytime soon but who knows what will happen in the future. I would like to spend under $250 but could possibly spend more if there is a good reason too. Looking for about 100x4 @ 4ohms and bridgable. I have a MB quart dsc4125 in another vehicle and its OK but want something else for this vehicle. What's out there that's worth a crap?

I just had a fun time fixing my charging system today so i thought i spill some info out there for ya. When you look at an alternator, you must understand it's purpose and how it will safely work. An alternator basically keeps your battery(ies) charged. In car audio, we usually tend to buy a H.O. alt because it will help run the system and\or keep the battery(ies) charged but it's not that easy! There are things you must know or damage can occur to your alt or batt(s)! 1 - If purchasing a H.O. alt, do NOT purchase only based upon what size you need to run your car audio install! BIG NO NO! Why? Alternator's charge batteries, not just run stereo equipment! If you have a l…

I have a DD M3a and when I see set ups on youtube or forums they have 3k or 2.5k or 4500Ds I want to know if my amp is around the same as the ones they use. So my question is what is the DD M3a similar too in output, their site says 2200 at 1 ohm, but everyone says they are underrated and get to 5k at .5. And lets assume my electrical is good enough for a .5 load. What amps would be very similar? SAZ-3500D? DC 3.5k?

Looking for some suggestions for good quality 5-9k rms amps. I have looked at some, but just want to see what some of you guys think. Thanks.

Got 2 IA death penalty 12s and need some amp advice. Budget is $700, thanks for the help guys.

thinking of buying one...anyone have an opinion of these batts

Found out today that Pep Boys has 25% off online orders plus Optima has a $20 mail in rebate right now. That puts these in the $140 price range. I already have a Diehard Platinum Group 31M for the rear. Just wondering which of these 2 are best for my usage. There are mixed reviews on Google search regarding this in an audio application. I really don't plan on playing a lot with the car off, which makes it seem the Red Top would be best. Am I correct?

So I just purchased the Audioque AQ3500D amp and an Optima Yellow top for the front. I will be doing 2 runs of 1/0AWG wiring, a 300A Iraggi alt, and a second battery in the rear. I only want ONE battery for the trunk, and right now im torn between the Kinetik HC2400 and the XS Power D3100 (which im kinda leaning towards). Which of these batteries do you guys think I should run on this setup? Also, Im looking at the XS Power VCM. Will this electrical setup be sufficient? I want to be able to run this amp full tilt daily with little to no voltage drop. Thanx.

So I got home and had a package waiting for me. I picked up the 4 channel ssa amp when there was that friends and family sale going on. I was always on the fence about em but once that sale kicked off I just had to pick it up. Loved the pics of it and in. Person this amp is beautiful and has a nice strong solid build feel to it. Im replacing my hifonics Zeus 2000.4 amp so I can't wait to hear the quality this amp puts out. It it will be powering a pair of 8" Rockford pro audio. A pair of Rockford punch 6x9, pair of the ssa evil mids. And evil tweeters. Just thought id share. I don't see much of real hands on experiences with the amps.

i have a 130 amp alt and a ever start battery up front i'm buying a audiopipe 15001d i was wondering if that would be sufficient for that amp if not i was thinking of a shuriken bt60 60ah and 1500 amps i want as minimal voltage drop as possible

ok so i have a bazooka 500wrms mono im running until i get my saz-1500 fixed.... its running a fosgate power hx2 at 1ohm. its a damn good amp for the brand. i dont know much about it but lately since i got a h/u instead of my mp3 player it goes into protect when the bass hits real low note like on bass i love you for example the real low note when u get major excurssion it goes into protect. is it cause its not 1 ohm stable? gain is about 2/3 up frequency is all the way down bass boost is about 1/4 up sub level on pioneer 680mp is at about -10 thanx in advance

so this kid on SMD claims that i should be ok with an 80 amp stock alternator running off an audio pipe 2000 together with a rockford 250.4 as it is i have major volt drop, have a yellow top under the hood and an xs power xp950 I'm looking forward into buying a singer alt 180 amps but trying to see if it'll be good even after i purchase a larger amp which I'm thinking about the soundqubed q1 3500 let me know what you guys think, should i stick to the 180 amps and still be good in the future? (still gonna purchase a second xp950 in the near future)

I am soon to be grabbing a new sub amp and was offered a new taramps 5k for a pretty good price. I have just read several times on the questionable durability/reliability of the taramps name. Is it worth it to spend near to twice the price for the same power? I am seriously torn here... For what it's worth, 2 xcons or ethos will be on the receiving end of whatever amp I choose. Most likely xcon as I already have one.

Would 2000 be to much for 2 SA-10's? I was told by Jacob too put them into a 2 cube box, but i dont know if thats too much power.