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5,712 topics in this forum
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I'm now looking to upgrade to 1/0 wire in my truck. I've been told to use reducers to get the wire down to 4 gauge in my amp. Why should I use these on pure ofc wire when Idk what the reducer is made of? Why not just trim the wire down the fit snuggly in the 4 gauge inputs?? Since one reduced on knukonceptz is like 4 bucks. Pretty steal for somethin I don't see totally necessary. Is it possible the reducer would hinder power flow as opposed to just trimming?? Oppinions on recuders?
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Im about to run 2 SS 12" subs and a 2000 watt amp( what kind undecided i would appreciate suggestions). I wanted to know if i should possible upgrade my alternator or any other kind of problem i might have to ensure the sound. Also I have no Idea what kind of box I should build what do yall think? im getting the dual 2 ohm subs so suggestions on boxes are also appreciated. Thanks in Advance, Colt
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So i've been looking at upgrading head units because I am getting some new components and I have an alpine now and use it all the time with my iPod. I currently have a 9881. So I am thinking of sticking with the Alpine line-up and I was going to go with the 9887 for sure, but now I've seen the 9884 and it seems to have a lot of awesome features. Whats the big differences here? My currents needs I guess are: Imprint technology good equalizer( im not sure if parametric or graphic is better for me. But either would be better then 9881's) good iPod control Thats pretty much it I guess... I have a pair of 6.5 Koda components coming in soon and am hoping to make them sound even…
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Would I be able to run 2 alternators on my 2003 Lancer if i made the bracket and had room for it? If so how would I go about wring the second one in, or could I have it wired to just my audio battery ?
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would it be possibile to run my jl 500/1 to 4 coponents and a set of tweeters. i would have to turn down the gains ,but would it be a good or a bad idea to even try somthing like that.
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I have not been able to find an unfused distribution block for 1/0 gauge wire..... it needs to connect like 4 0 gauge wires.
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I'm working on a little project where the only available power source is a 12 cell Ni-MH pack, starting at 16.8V fully charged, but dropping to 15-16V after some use. Would a HU run on this, or would it go up in smoke?
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crossfire cx23L us amps us-x3 kenwood kec-600 the kec-600 is alot more intriquite and complex than the others, US AMPS and crossfire are 6 channel output, the kenwood has 12channel out all have line drivers, kenwood = 24 db/octave, crossfire is 12 db/octave and i think the usamps is 12 db/octave just needing some opinions...im gonna try to sell the usamps and crossfire and keep the kenwood - made in 94 old school goodness... the us amps is old too tho ALL INMINT SHAPE crossfire is new tho
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I currently have a 1000 watt Rockford fosgate. I want a bit more output from my xcon. will upgrading to a 1500 watt amp make a difference? I am planning on buying a sundown from db-r. any input what so ever is appreciated.
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so im buying this amp an i was gonna buy a 0-scope to set my amp gains. but since there's a clip light will that allow me to set the gains as high as they'll go without sendin a clipped signal.? kinda like what an o-scope would do an tell me when the signal was gettin clipped?
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Ok, I am revamping an old mobile sound system in my 2000 jeep Cherokee. It will consist of... deh 80prs ?dsp? ? 4-6 ch? amp F.ch-exodus anarchy 6.5"x2 seas 1"27tbfgc x2 Back- 8"usher 8945p x2 possible Rear fill w/saz 125.2. - 5.25" peerless hds exclusive x2. saz1500.1d single 12" Xcon d2. Lots of deadener and foam. My questions are: 1: I'm going to run the new deh-80prs, which has a 3 way active xover internally. So, do I still need to run a dsp, ms8, bit one etc... To run my fronts as active? 2: If I do this, can I also run a 5 ch. To run front 2 way active, and then, off of sub ch, run my mids in rear passenger doors. I know there aren't spots designated there, b…
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No higher end, high output alternator manufacturers make a alt to fit my car even trying to retrofit isn't possible. I do have a 220 from powerbastards that utilizes a stock casing and after a month my battery light started coming on. But I think I have some good news. After taking it to a specialist It does 220 like PB says but the voltage regulator went bad but everything else is working fine and he'll replace the regulator and says there shouldn't be a problem anymore in fact the build (constuction) of the alt was good even the ratio of windings (voltage) vs diameter (current/amps) was ideal. The one issue with the regulator was amp draw between the rotor and what the …
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sort of a noob question, but just wanna make sure. after having my stuff for sale for 2 months, and no one buying it, i decided to make it work in my truck. im gonna be running the set-up in my sig, and was wondering if it would be safe to mount my amp to my box. there's not really any other good place to put it, so i figured why not. its a sturdy box made out of 3/4 mdf. thanks!
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I just want to learn about this amp some more, I have only seen one in a car, and the owner was not there to turn it on, so I would like to find out more
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i have 2 SAZ-3000D and the slave amp keeps going into protect mode.Its only at semi hi volumes, i checked the ground and all the other connections. They seem to be fine, not sure what it could be any ideas?
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I want to make sure my amp is set correct so I am going to try and pick up a digital multimeter soon. I have never used before though. Do I need an expensive one or any work fine. (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482141000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2). Using the equation in the topic my voltage should be about 22.3v. What would I set the dmm in the picture too?
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Ive always had my wires installed for me but Im doing it myself now. Im puting in a Sundown 1500 in a Explorer. What all do I need? 1/0 ga wire, dist blocks, circuit breakers, etc??? I want to use Knu wires so if theres a link to a complete amp kit that would be fine.
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i know the 200.1 is the same as alot of 3000s out there. but Bob is claiming its 3700w lol and the new 150.1 does 3300w? last i remember the 150.1 was no louder than a mojo 2000 or crossfire..
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Im going to be ordering my new head unit later on today, but I would like to know if anyone has/used this type before and how well it works, I'm getting it because it has 3 pre-amp settings and had a USB and AUX port on it, my old head unit has neither of these and I'm only using CD's which get scratched way too easily. Thanks guys. heres a link to view it http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_35579_Clarion-CZ501.html
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I will be running a little over 1000 watts rms, probably around 1200, will there be the need to get an optima yellow top?
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I currently have a passive front component set of Focal's on a Linear Power 1502 with TIPS mods. I'm looking at going active and louder up front. I currently have a BTL N2 15 and another on the way. I can start to drown out the fronts now so adding another sub will definitely drown them out. I have not set my mind up on what tweeters and mids to use. I have door pods already for 6.5 mids and tweeters. I have a small SUV...Mercury Mariner so adding more front speakers is not an option. This is a daily driver and I will rewire the fronts with larger wire when I redo and go active. I'm looking into the Zed amp 100x4 and wondering if anyone has any experience with it. …
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So I made this thread here And so far it seems that either I get some kind of amp or not bother with stock speaker replacement. I was thinking of getting smallest amp possible to power the speaker replacements and hide it in dash, taking power and ground from factory harness would be even better, but finding such an amp, that's challenge. How about Alpine KTP-445 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22630_Alpine-KTP-445.html Would I be able to just cut the wires and connect speaker wires to my speaker wires and ground and power to the ones in Toyota harness ? I woas thinking of these speakers for replacement... Fronts http://www.woofersetc.com/p-8696-sc95-boston-acoustic…
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