Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I'm looking into getting a vehicle with a little more space for some more beat. Right now I have a dual 2 ohm Fi BTL N2 18 being run by an AQ2200D at 1 ohm. If I was to upgrade the system, I would probably get another AQ2200D and another dual 2 BTL. I realize that I could run 1 amp to each sub, but I was wondering if linking the amps made a cleaner signal. It is my understanding that 2 ohms @ 4400 watts is better than 1 ohm @ 2200 watts x 2. If I was to link the amps, how would I go about doing it? What would need to be input/output from either amp in order to run 4400 watts @ 2 ohms? Thanks guys! <--------------

hey guys i have a power aucoustik amp 4 channel and its in protect and its not the wireing or anything cause we hooked up a different amp in its same location and that one works fine. i opend the power aucoustik amp and nothing looks out of place but maybe there could be something wrong of the other side of the board you cant see ? ill have to check that but i dont know if i want to completly remove the whole case so i can see the other side. im not using this amp but my friend is counting on useing it is there anything i can do , it was working fine and he called me to his house and it was on protect the fuse was blown put in a new fuse still in protect .

I just secured a 100.4 and 125.2 for an awesome deal and had a few questions, basically to solidify my purchase decision. I was hoping to use the 100.4 for an active front stage 2 way comps. Use 125.2 to run a sa8 in a .75 ported box. I feel the amps are up to those tasks without a secondary processor for the comps and the single 8 should be healthy on the 125.2 @ 2 ohms. Feedback, and suggestions on comp sets and headunits would be welcome as I'm still juggling a few ideas around. Thanks Lymen

Hey guys what up? I have recently start having problems with my HU that I cant figure out. Ive had it now for about 2 years and I notice last that am getting this static, popping noise when I turn my sterring wheel or turn the sub level up. I also tapped on the HU to see if I would get any noise and I did. It seems as though anytime the HU get a bit of a jolt it starts with the noise, whether its me just tapping on it, turning the steering wheel, or turing up the bass level in the truck. Any suggestions? If am leaving anything out just let me know and ill fill it in. Thanks

I need an amp for my 15 Icon.It is in a (about)4ft3 ported enclosure.(wired @ 4 Ohms now, but it can change). I am thinking about a Sundown 1000 or 1500, or a Clarion DPX 11500. I did not find a lot of informations about the Clarion, and everybody here loves Sundown. I will probably upgrade to a 15" or 12" Xcon, so I should look for a 1500 watts rms amplifier. What do you guys think? I would like to play at 2 Ohms with the future sub, and at 4 ohms now : so the Clarion looks like the good choice. It seems like very few people have it here. Why? I need something that can play with high temperature, because I am in the Carribeans. I want something very RELIABLE; shippin…

I have the 9813 model head unit it has a time delay feature , easy to set by plugging in your speaker to listening position. Alpine`s web site can give you the settings for your TD . The Bass Focus is a separate feature but when adjusted it affects the time delay. I would like to use the Bass Focus but I do not understand the instructions completely. Is any one else here using this feature and how is it set?

ok so if i got 2 amps hooked up how should i ground them, so far i got a 1/0 spliced to 2 8 guage wires. its not working very well, should i get another distro block for my gound wires as well?

I just bought a couple of SA E10's with Dual 4ohm coils and they will be going in a sealed enclosure. What class D amp would you recommend for around $100? I prefer this route so there are no electrical issues with my son's older car. I also have the option of running some old school amps (Lanzar Opti 100-1ohm stable, Lanzar Plus 100-1/2 ohm stable, Lanzar 240-2 ohm stable) I don't like the idea of using my old amps because I don't want them stolen as they are not easily replaceable. Another option is a new Boston GT2200 or a GT2125. I can buy a new 2125 for under $100 but don't know if it will run these E10's well. the GT2200 is more than I want to spend for him and not…

I have a JBL 1200.1db amplifier... what are your guys opinions on this amplifier?

this is my first stereo install and im a little confused. i see that the harness that plugs into the stereo has a longer black ground wire. my adapter harness has a black wire for a ground wire to attach. ive heard that youre supposto ground the stereo to the metal inside the dash. will it be okay leaving the ground wire on the harness that plugs into the factory plug left un touched. will everything function properly? should i NOT solder them but instead ground it in the dash? also the p connect is for the remote wire right?

I like both - the 9887 has a lot of audio plusses, but I really like the 710's iPod control (fast - no lag) Can you guys weigh in on which you would get? I'm also going to add/ or use the BT feature for handsfree. Please chime in with your experience on either HU. thx!

I lost my license for 12months er, speed racer me. Any how i have... IVA-W200... 500/1 jl amp.. wiring... subs (i can uninstall those) my question is this with the deck cant i just take off the dash, take out the fixture and unhook the harness and im done? or what am i missing with the amp and wiring just un hook it from the battery and remove right? I just dont want to damage anything please guide me.

I currently am running 2 amps, 1 for comps and 1 for sub. It totals 1300rms. So, I would need about a 130a fuse as a estimate, correct? I'm gonna upgrade the big 3 and get a HO alt. I don't really know jack about amps and all that. My question is, can somebody help me figure out what size alt to get? Would a 200a be sufficient? I drive a 97 Exploder 6cyl and I think the stock alt is 95a. Any help is greatly appreciated

I have 2 Hifonics BXI2607's and I noticed earlier today while listening to my system that one of the amps is making a rattling, buzzing noise when the bass hits. It only does it on the higher frequencies which do not hit that hard, the lower frequencies which are louder and hit harder the amp does not make any noise. The noise is coming from the RCA area of the amp. It is not the amp that I have running to the HU, it is the amp that I used a jumper RCA to hook up. I noticed that the amp does not make the noise until I get the volume up to 20/35 on the HU and gets louder as I increase the volume. I did not even notice it until I was in the back close to the amp, I thought …

After attending my first bass off in VA last weekend the bug has bitten. Car will be paid off this summer so it's time to start thinking about uprades. I'm not looking to dominate competitions, but I do wanna get way louder. Right now I'm thinking 2-3k would be good for me. Being that I'm running a 5 channel now I know I'll be adding a second amp for the highs. At this point, will an extra battery in back be enough, or do I need to start looking at HO alts? My stock Scion is only 80 amps. Just got a little tax money and would like to put it on something of value towards this. I found a few amps on Craigslist that sparked my attention, although after reading the Stetsom f…

got a few questions about the system im putting together, and im still kinda new to this hobby so bear with me =] I got the alpine DVA-9861 to replace my old CDA-9815.. i had some technical issues with the 9815 (pos from carstereo.com) but other then it being broken i loved the features ie) x-over, lpf, hpf, time alignment, parametric eq [even tho it was confusing as helll]... so i figured id just get a new one but i wanted one that could play DVDs so i could have more MP3s on a disc. for some reason i thought that using an ipod wouldnt give me 4v preout, which is why i wanted the mp3s on a disc.. anyway i went ahead and glanced over the specs on the 9861 and everything l…

I have an 06 impala and plan on installing my head unit in the next few days... I was wondering if anyone knew if it would hurt to hook my deck up without using the door chime box with the stage 2 harness. I have a bad habit of not wearing my seatbelt and do not want to listen to my car beep over and over again when im not buckled in . Does anyone know if it would hurt anything to just wire up the harness and cut the chime box plug off (or just leave it unhooked) when I install my stereo?

Was wondering if anyone has one and how accurate is the db meter? Is it worth playing around with. I seen that they made a couple of different models with the spl meter.

Did a quick search on the forums and came up empty. I saw somebody post a link to one on ebay a while ago, but I can't seem to find it. I'm not positive that that is the correct name... When I say voltage meter, I mean something like this. Feel free to correct me if I'm using that phrasing incorrectly. Just wonderin where I can find the best one for the money.

I want to install a processor, Have seen the 701 in action(didnt get much play time tho). I have not been able to screw around with a 360. Does anybody have any experience with these two units? I was leaning towards the alpine, mainly for the digital input. Is the digital that important, or not? Thanks for any help

Okay guys, My wife has been beggin me to get her new truck (2007) silverado Crew to sound similar to my old S-10. In the S-10 I had a downfiring box with Solobaric S10D's 4ohm running mono on a US 1000X Some might say it was a little overkill but I had it turned down and was probaly one of the cleanest systems that I had herd (Yes I know just my preference) I also had MB Quart Q's for mids and Highs running off a PPI PCX280 which I still have the Quarts and the PPI. Okay you might be wondering where I am going with this. I am looking for a little help for powering these subs, and keeping the SQ good. The sq was amazing with my US amp and it pounded at the same tim…

Should I get a T150002 or a kicker zx1500.1 Or I can get 2 RF T5002 vs getting 2 kicker zx550.2 Which would you guys get if you were me? They would run 2 12" Fi SSDs with all the upgrades

Anyone know anything about them. My buddy wants the CR5000.1.

Has any one used these. Good or bad?

"A second battery is never a good idea as it's an added strain on the alternator to charge two batteries AND supply power for the car. The ONLY time a second battery is useful is if the audio system is to be used with the car off."