Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

How much rms should I aim for to power the ICON optimally? How would an amp like this do http://www.americanbassusa.com/product.detail/product_id/137

hi i wanted some info on how take make my electrical system to 14.4 volts i have a 1997 jetta vr6 so i would guess i have 12v system how can i make it higher so my amp would put out the right watts i have a brutus 1605 thanks.

Hey guys, been lurking for a while now (on CA.com, DIYMA and ROE more). I thought I registered but guess not. Anyway I bought this AX 5600 BNIB, I believe it is a 2006 model. Upon arrival I noticed that the Xovers were 50-500 for the sub channel, 50-500 for the "Front" 2ch and the "Rear" were able to be bandpassed from 50-500 and 200-5k. I have an Alpine CDA-9835 HU and CDT ES-6 mids and DRT-25 tweeters and a single 12" SS RL-p in a 2 cube box tuned to 32hz. I want to run the comps active off this amp. Now I'm stumped why the "Front" channel Xover is 50-500hz. Please tell me I have a fluke amp that has a typo and that really should be a say, 2000-20000hz HP filter....? Or…

im currently running a Zapco 360.4 brigded 180x2 for my componenets and a Xtant 301a regulated 300w (old school pre MTX) for my sub... huge fan of US made amps, both amps i know for sure are underrated and are badass amps, but im stuck i have an opportunity to pick up 2 audison amps for about 600 bucks... the LXr4.300 and the LXr1.400... i know audison makes great high end amps, but these are their middle end stuff... i was just wondering if it would be worth it to replace my current setup w/ the audisons has anyone tried the LXr line out? thnx for lookin

Iv read many a thread talking about caps and well, nobody likes them ^^. So what i was thinking about doing, instead of just chucking it, would it be possible to remove the LED display and wire it upfront to be used as a voltmeter? Opinions?

does anyone know where i can buy raptor 0 gauge wire i have checked bunch of online stores and cant seem to find it i would like to keep all my wires matching but the store here i got it from first time charges 85$ for 25 foot wanna try to find it online cheaper if possible Thanks

I lost my license for 12months er, speed racer me. Any how i have... IVA-W200... 500/1 jl amp.. wiring... subs (i can uninstall those) my question is this with the deck cant i just take off the dash, take out the fixture and unhook the harness and im done? or what am i missing with the amp and wiring just un hook it from the battery and remove right? I just dont want to damage anything please guide me.

First of all i'm thinking of running 2 audio que 18s (HDC318) on 2000w rms a piece, is this possible? If it is possible, would i only need 1 ho alt and how many amps? 300? lastly, should i switch my stock battery with something different AND throw one in the trunk or what would you suggest? Thanks.

hey guys im putting a new system in my car and i pretty much have everything i need except for wires, amp kits and a box. my focus right now is to get wires that are the best suited for my system right now. Im not sure what type of wires or amp kits i should so any help would be awesome. I have a 2002 toyota camry Kenwood excelon headunit Image Dynamics 6.5" 2 ohm Component System (CXS62 V.2) (front door speakers) (1) 12" Alpine Type-R sub (SWR-1243D) sundown audio SAZ-1000D (1-channel mono amp) (for sub) sundown audio SAX-125.2 (2-channel amp) (for the front speakers) i think knukonceptz.com has some pretty good wires but i just dont know what type i should get, what ki…

Im looking @ getting a amp for my SE and dont know which way to go. Im kinda on a budget but im open to all ideas. Want to feed it as close to 600 rms as i can. off topic: Hi to all, im new here

Can someone recommend me a good pioneer headunit? I'm trying to keep it on the cheap side, around 100-130 bucks. It will be used in a '95 suburban and i was also going to be running 2 12" L7s (not sure if that matters). I just want it to sound good and go well with my subs.

I currently own a 1995 Ford Mustang that I am thinking of trading it in (this car is great and cursed at the same time). This car has a 130Amp stock alternator and I currently have a SAE-1000D powering a Stereo Integrity Mag with 1000W RMS @ 1ohm. I also have a Crossfire CFA302 amp rated at 75W RMS x 2 @ 4ohms. I've never had a problem with these amps, so I never thought about upgrading my alternator to an aftermarket model that produces 200+ amps. Anyway, I'm looking at a few different possibilities for my next ride. I want a Nissan 350Z or a new Mustang GT, but that would require saving up for the next few years. I also thought about getting a truck, either a Toyot…

I need an amp for my 15 Icon.It is in a (about)4ft3 ported enclosure.(wired @ 4 Ohms now, but it can change). I am thinking about a Sundown 1000 or 1500, or a Clarion DPX 11500. I did not find a lot of informations about the Clarion, and everybody here loves Sundown. I will probably upgrade to a 15" or 12" Xcon, so I should look for a 1500 watts rms amplifier. What do you guys think? I would like to play at 2 Ohms with the future sub, and at 4 ohms now : so the Clarion looks like the good choice. It seems like very few people have it here. Why? I need something that can play with high temperature, because I am in the Carribeans. I want something very RELIABLE; shippin…

With two D1 ohm subs if wired in series for a 4 ohm load with two 1500rms 1ohm mono amps strapped would that give me a final load on the amps of 2ohms being there strapped? If wired in series/parallel for a 1 ohm load with two 1500rms 1ohm mono amps strapped would that give me a final load on the amps of .5ohm strapped? Also out of all the researching I've done regarding strapping, is it true that 2 strapped 1500rms 1ohm mono amps be like a 3k 2ohm amp? I posted this elsewhere also n I believe they answered wrong considering everything I find its double the power/ohm just wanna get another opinion in a better worded post

Hi,I was wanting some guidance on where i should take my electrical to minimize voltage drops. The amps are: hifonics BRZ2100.1 and a soundstream RUB500.4 Electrical: 150A alternator, shuriken BT-80 and shuriken BT-20 (both measure a good 12.7-12.9). 4 gauge big 3, 4 gauge to the soundstream and 0 to the hifonics I was aiming more for a bigger alternator. According to math, give or take a 14.4V crank 14.4v/2600w=180.5A. I'm not sure what current the car is drawing from that. would i be safe with a 240A alternator or do i need to just go 270? and would upgrading the big 3 to 0 be necessary? Thanks!

anyone with these amps new let me know...receiveing sub this week and I am preparing. I am looking to up-grade the amp I have been tallking about I now have......G.

I need to find out if i will need the big 3 or not with my setup. Here is what i have 1 12" kicker L7 750watts rms 2ohm dvc and am going to be purchasing a JBL GTO 1201.1 787watts at 4ohms. My car is a 95 ram 1500 and i think the alternator is 120amps will i need the big 3? information on the amp there are 3 40amp fuses so 120 amps is the most the amp will pull i was told just put that there maybe it will help you guys. THANKS! if you need more information i will try to post it up!

Audison HR100

So i bought 2 15" fi btl's off a friend and i was wondering if a rf t2500bdcp amp would be ok for both subs at .5ohms? I dont compete and i play mostly spanish music...my electrical consist of a 270a alt and 3 xs3200 batts...all 0/2 gauge wire...

So i already want more power. how well would a hifonics brutus bxi2008d on .5 ohms? ill be running two. alt will be a second 220 on top of my stock alt, plus one batt up front and another by the amps. maybe two by the amps. has anyone had experience with them? i cant even get mine warm at 1 ohm right now... just kicking around ideas, as this would be my cheapest way to get around 4-5k rms. otherwise i gotta buy a big amp and thats lots of money. i want s Sundown 4500 but im just dreaming there. i can afford what im proposing... thinking about sayin screw it an getting the amp this week and trying it... lol. although i really should get the batt/alt power first... anywa…

I'm at home, sick as a dog, feeling too shitty to really do anything or go anywhere, so I'm drawing out plans fot my next system. my question is, with a 370a Alt, XS d3400 up front and a D7500 in the rear, what is the maximum amount of power you could comfortably run, RMS. I ask, because I'd like to keep it as simple as possible, but still have flexibility after should I upgrade from my current equipment. Thank you for humoring me in my moment of boredom lol

So the plan right now is to pick up (2) 12" SSDs for the new car. Originally I was going to power them with a SAZ-1500D and call it a day. Now I have been pondering the idea of powering them with 2 SAE-1000Ds for a little extra juice and a little overhead. I just don't know if the price difference is worth it. So the question is which do you think I should do? I've heard the 1500D is underrated with the right electrical, but will I get more out of this setep with the 2000W? Thanks in advance.

After attending my first bass off in VA last weekend the bug has bitten. Car will be paid off this summer so it's time to start thinking about uprades. I'm not looking to dominate competitions, but I do wanna get way louder. Right now I'm thinking 2-3k would be good for me. Being that I'm running a 5 channel now I know I'll be adding a second amp for the highs. At this point, will an extra battery in back be enough, or do I need to start looking at HO alts? My stock Scion is only 80 amps. Just got a little tax money and would like to put it on something of value towards this. I found a few amps on Craigslist that sparked my attention, although after reading the Stetsom f…

im lookin into buyin either of these amps, i have the big3 upgraded with 1/0 gauge wire from elemental designs, and stock battery and alternator. which of these amps will be easiest on a charging system thanks