Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I've had bought a WMD18 from Pierce audio and my ed nine.1 amp clipped and kill my sub within 15 minutes , i'm pissed THE fucked off. I'm fed up with eDs Bull shit i need a real amp. What do yahh suggest ? i'm interested in Sundown but the price is outta reached. So whats up with AudieQue products? Should i give it a try or keep on lookin around.

what would be a good amp kit for a 12" btl with the saz-2000d

Was looking for something today, and found this hiding under some stuff. Anyone ever seen one like this or better yet used one like it? It looks to be over my head unless someone could dumb it down for me. I set gains by ear, but if this could be used I would like to play around with it some. There is no manual that I can find. Maybe I could contact the manufacturer, but thought I would ask here before I put too much effort into something that Maybe cant even be used for what I want to do with it. Here is a pic, sorry it's crappy took it on my Blackberry. Leader LBO 525L Oscilloscope 50MHz Any thoughts ?? Thanks.

Hi, All, I have a couple questions related to the internal subwoofer crossover(?) of the Alpine CDA-105. So far, Alpine Tech support and Crutchfield "advisors" have been unable to help -- they only know what's in the manual, which I am perfectly capable of reading myself! 1) Does the High Pass Filter function (60/80/100 Hz or off) affect only the front and rear line or speaker outputs, and NOT the subwoofer output? I would assume only the front and rear line or speaker outputs would be filtered, but, the manual does not clearly specify. (See page 14 of the manual.) http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM%20CDA-105_EN.pdf 2) Assuming my abov…

does it matter how far the fuse is from the battery, as long as it's within 18"? more specifically can it ever be too close to the battery? i installed new wires in my friends car (power and grounds) and its only about 6" from the battery. his fuse keeps blowing so he tried a bigger fuse (still only 80 amps) could that be the problem? i dont know the specifics on what amp and such but its probably 7-900 watts. should he just upgrade to a 150 amp fuse? its 4 AWG.

i was wondering if i will be able to hook my batteries up like this or is the only way is to daisy chain them? - - i know this is the rite way, but just want to know if its possible to do it the other way reason for askin is limited on wire at the moment

Can any one post a tutorial( or show where one is) on how to set up the gains using a oscilloscope ???? ! would like to set up my stereo that way if i could figure it out.

I have a 4 groove belt on my lancer and I've been told buy a HO Alt dealer that If I chose a 200 amp unit I would experience belt slip. Does anyone here have a 200 amp alt or higher on a 4 groove belt? If so, does the belt slip on you? I was informed that 150 amp unit would work fine. My stock alt is 85 amperes. I'll be running a Sundown 2000D plus a component amp (undecided which one). Would 150 amp unit and a PowerMaster D3100 + front battery be sufficient power for me?

Ok. Ever since I can remember I have had a small problem with dimming headlights. However, I never really noticed because I don't blast my system full tilt very often and hardly ever at night. For some reason my lights seem to be dimming a lot lately. I currently have a 200amp alternator with 3 deka intimadator batteries. This powers my saz3000d at 1ohm. I thought that I might have a loose connection or my alternator was failing. I started testing voltage and this is where I'm confused. With the bass at nearly full tilt with the lights dimming bad my voltage stays at a steady 13.98 volts. With nothing on it's charges at 14.2. So, my question is how or why is my lights dim…

I'm looking to power a tc9 with a dual 1.4 ohm FI Q recone. instead of looking to see how much boom i can get, i'm looking for a little better sound and will be udating with the rest of my system, i'm just starting with the sub and amp. the audison is 900 rms at 1 ohm and the dls is about 1200 rms at 1 ohm. both are about the same price. I've come here because i know the experience seems to be concentrated here. lol. also on the list of keeping the boom up is the md3d and saz-1500d. so some people with experience please give me a little insight. thanks very much i apreciate it.

I have made two schematics. The second one is revised and I think it should work. I also have a few questions. 1) Which is a better setup? 2)What size fuses would go in each fuse holder? the amps have a 150 and 500 amp fuse rating and the alternator is 260 amp.

So as of now, I plan on getting 4 alpine type s component speakers, tweeters and cross overs, *I may also add two 6x9 kicker coaxial speakers* Anyways I was wondering, out of these head units, which would be the best for sq to power the speakers and which one is the most reliable. http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/fh-p8000bt.aspx http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/ptid-8940nt.aspx http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/kenwooddpx503.aspx http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/adb340mp.aspx http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/vm9311.aspx

Lesser amps beware..........

is it the same signal as the front rca output ... i do not listen to surround sound music or dvds so will the left rear sound exactly the same as the left front (same thing with the right side)? ... reason being i have 2 sets of components in the front and have my rears running off the high levels ... i wanted to run my front components using the front and rear rcas so i can adjust the kicks independently from the doors

so i've seen videos and people have a little digital volt reader on there dash, it reads how many volts the battery (or alt?) is putting out, and it has blue numbers... where can i find one online and what are they called exactly. also, i can't exactly afford 1/0 gauge power wire set from street wires, which is who i want. and i can't wait any longer to get my system put in my new car. i have a SAE 1000D amp with a 12" Fi Q going into a 2001 grand cherokee. stock alt is 100amps. anyways, i used the 4 gauge in my previous car, even though it's rated for 600w, thats what people on here told me to use. i wanna upgrade my system to a BTL or Xcon, i haven't decided yet, but i …

wire power and ground have other ppl used on the audiopipe 30001d?

So i have a Power Acoustik Bamf series amplifier that i bought two or so months ago. When i hooked it up for the first time in my first car it worked fine. I took it out about a month later and havent used it up until today. Now heres my problem. My remote wire will not turn on my amplifier. My power and my grounds are good. the power ground and remote wires all read out to around 13.5 with the car at idle and a little over 12 when in accessory. What i dont understand is why my amplifier will not turn on even though the remote connection is good. Oh yeah the fuses are not blown either. any help would be appreciated.

Soon I will be getting a 12" AudioQue HDC3 (Copper Coils) and was wanting to finally upgrade my Front Stage Mids & Highs. This is the first time I dealt with Component Systems and 2-Channel Amps so some of these questions might sound stupid. I am considering RE Audio 6.5 Components or Rockford Fosgate T162s and they both are 4 Ohm. Does this mean that after you connect mid & highs to crossover then crossover to amp, then will the final impedance to the amp be 4 ohms? Or is there a way to wire component systems in parallel to get a 2 ohm load? One more question. Is each channel kinda like a different amp? For example, If I have a 4 Channel amp can I have 2 channe…

hey guys another noob question! lol so what exactly is amp clipping and how do i tell if its happening? i just want to get some questions out the way well my stuff is in transit befor i begin the install

i need to wire my sub at 2 ohms. the blue line on the right that goes from 1 of the positive's, to 1 of the negative's, is that 1 piece of speaker wire or is it both that i twist together and put in the terminal? like speaker wire has a positive and negative, do i separate it and only use one side, or do i twist together and just use both? hopefully my questions makes sense. thanks guys.

i would like to know what the value of a fully functioning A1200.2 amp and if anyone wants to buy it

i wanted to buy the new kenwood double din head unit ... it has a 5v rca output ... my problem is my rockford amps have an input sensitivity up to 4 volts ... what will happen if i run the 5v rca output to the amps? ... if i tune the amps with the h/u to say 75% of max volume will the voltage output be less (approx 3.75v)?

Ok, redoing my setup in one of my vehicles. Equipment is 1 JL 300/4 and 1 JL 1000/1. Hooked everything up and right off the bat, the low voltage light comes on the JL 1000/1 and the 300/4 won't come on. Checked voltage at amps and I'm getting 12 and both. Now, the only thing I did different from the previous install was I DID use a relay on the remote wire, this time I didn't. The deck is a Pioneer and I'm wondering if the remote wire on Pioneers can't support 2 amp turn-ons. Any one got any suggestions?

wat head unit i should get for and suv for Fi BTL 12 or 15" and high and mid speakers which one r good high and med speakers

So i have a sundown 1200D and i did the Big 3 but thats all... besides that everything is stock. Then recently my sub would randomly stop playing, especially at higher volumes. At first i thought it was my headunit because i could get it to play if i pushed a certain way, well sometimes haha. Then i took it to where i got everything installed and they ran a "diagnostics test" and they said they couldnt find anything except maybe that it was too much power for my stock electrical and that ive fvcked up my amp. Well i cant find the papers to my order with the amp so idk what to do there.... but besides that, the guy told me if i had a capacitor that what happened wouldnt ha…