Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I'm looking to make some buss bars out of aluminum. The buss bars will span two D3100's ~13" for each positive and ground, I was wondering what size and type of aluminum I should go with. I'm not sure how thick or wide of buss bars should I get? I was considering 1 Inch thick by 2 inches.

I have 2 Massive Audio D3000.1's right now with the gain turned up about half way. I put a recommended 100amp fuse in the holder... today i got in the car, turned on the stereo and one amp didn't turn on. I checked all the wiring, everything is fine...checked the fuse, fuse was fine. The amp doesnt turn on at all, doesnt go into protect, nothing. I used a multi meter to check the voltage, the remote wire was reading 12v but the power wire is reading 0.03v what happened?? :S

Ok so here's the deal, I have my 18" SSD and I'm about to get a bigger amp for it (aq1200d or audiopipe or sax1200d) back to the point.. I want to make sure I have enough power to give it. I drive a 97 civic I think its like a 70amp alt. All stock electrical ( im also doing the big 3 to all 1/0 next week ) but I dont know enough and need help about batteries. Basically if I add a Battery is that going to be enough power to run my subs or do second battery's not even help on a stock alt? I see a bunch of people on here who always have batteries added and so I want to know if i can just add a battery to the back and be ok with my stock alt. I'm think along the lines of a…

Looking at the Audio Que 20 amplifier... and am wondering about the power claims they are making. I'm going as basic as you can get... the amplifier has 3 sets of 0 gauge power inputs. They claim the amplifier can consume up to 2,000 amps of current and over 1,000 amps of current consistently. Yet 100% ofc 0 gauge wire is rated around 250-350 amps of current up to 10'. Just looking at this, how can the amp be provided with the proper amperage at the correct voltage with enough inputs to only accept 750-1050 amps of current? Just wondering. Thanks for the help.

I was just wondering is the Audiopipe AQX35001 a good Amp for the money? There arent but 3 stores who sale it on the whole internet.. It is $475 shipped here http://www.rickiesdiscountelectronics.com/...fier-21902.html $499 plus shipping here http://cardiscountstereos.com/catalog%20pa...ct+%23=AQX35001 and $549 plus shipping here http://www.choicecaraudio.com/Catalog_Page...ct+%23=AQX35001 Here are some of the Specs 1 Ch @ 4ohm: 750w RMS 1 Ch @ 2ohm: 1650w RMS 1 Ch @ 1ohm: 3500w RMS I know that the Audiopipe AP30001D was a good amp for the money at least that is what i heard everywhere. I never personally have heard one

Alright got my system all ready to go and wired for tuning. First i set my gains using an oscilloscope on my sub mono amp. All went well. Then i set my gains on my 4 channel amp. All went well. I plugged in the speakers, and i am getting high pitch scratching noises that vary and change intermittently. When I turn off the subwoofer rca output from the headunit to the rear, the sub no longer gets any signal obviously.. but if i have rcas plugged into the 4 channel amp...... the sub then starts playing music! could this be my twisted pair rca cables? should i switch to coaxial?

I'm open so suggestions guys, I have a 250$ LIMIT but would like cheaper if at all possible, of course , but just lmk what you guys think would be good...Also if you have yahoo it would be much easier to chat so you can hit me up there, my sn is x0o_cybermafia_rage_o0x thanks.

pretty new pioneer cd player keeps telling me to check the cd core it wont play cd,s or the mp3,s what does this mean and is it fixable ?????? please help

ok guys one my home from work my friends subs im using Kenwoods 12" 400 rms each stop working as soon as i get ready to pull in. i look under my hood and my power wire fuse holder looks like it blew up.... kinda in half.... ( I was only using these subs for a week until i get my FI SSD 15 today or tomorrow.) Any ideas why this happened? i had a spare KIcker 4 awg wire so i wasnt to mad lol.

I have a DD 9512 (dual 2 ohm) and two Autotek MM1400.1D's. I wanted to run each amp on each coil at first, but I was told this is actually pretty risky and it is a lot safer to strap the amps together.. The only dilemma is that once strapped.. the amps will only be stable at 2 ohms.. but dual 2 ohm drivers can only be wired to 1 ohm or 4 ohm.. if i can keep the voltage between 13.5 and 14 volts at the amps, will it be safe to put a 1 ohm load on the set of strapped amps?

okay for my wife exsisting system she has 2 kicker 15 inch subs with 1000rms each..... to stay within a 350 or below budget what amp will push clean basss,,, i am obviously staying away from/// boss,crunch, .. but i never had cadene nor planet audio,,, some good help please

hey guys, i have been thinking. right now im stuck on which amps to use on these solo x's. its between 2 kicker kx 1200.1's (i can get some decent deals on) or i just found the soundstream rubicon series 1600 watts amp (id get 2, 1 for each sub) there rated 40Ax4 which is 160A for $220 new with warrenty. iv been doing research and they do right at rated power. so what do u think. im stuck here HELP!!!! if anyone knows of some other good rated power amps (around 450 for 1 or 225 for 1(id buy 2) let me know. ps, im ordering my 220 amp alt. here soon and 2 optima yellow tops so power is no issue here. here is a link to the soundstream http://www.amazon.com/Soundstream-RUB1-…

I'm in the process of adding a pair of 12" GCONS to the stock Fender stereo system in my 2012 Volkswagen GLI. The subs will be in a sealed enclosure from DC Creations are going to be powered by a Kicker ZX1000.1 (1298w rms according to birth sheet) controlled through the LC2i. I have 2 questions about some adjustments I'm unsure of 1) When setting the gains using the DMM method to obtain the corresponding output voltage for the amp's rated capacity (1000W RMS) - I need the most clean power I can get from this amp. Should I be using 1298w as stated on the birth-sheet to come up with the voltage number I'm looking for? or should I be using 1000W as rated. 2) With the LC2…

I had been using an RE Audio XTX3000.1 but decided to move over to the new Sun Down. On paper they're very close in specs but in real life it seems like the RE has substantially more power output. I have the gain turned all the way up on the SAZ-1500D with no clipping and still isn't real strong until I turn the volume way up. The RE gets louder and a much lower volume levels. Any idea if this is normal? I'm sure both companies probably rate their amps different. FWIW, I'm running a fully loaded Fi Q12 in a sealed 1.2 cu ft box (after sub displacement). I've got a Diehard Platinum battery with 1/0 AWG big 3 done.

who uses it? whered you get it and for how much? i need to order some power wire, 1/0 or 2/0, maybe bigger, i dont know yet. its for my 16v batteries, alt, and my soundstream xxx10000. should i run welding wire? or get nice caraudio 1/0? ive been reading about both, and its like 50/50...some like welding, some say it sucks. i dont know which i should buy. VJ

Hey guys I am looking into buying the above listed amp (orion cobalt cs 500.5) but for some reason I can't find the specs for this amp. So far the ONLY specs I have found but NOT confirmed are RMS Power at 2 Ohms: -1 W x 50 Epinions.com - Search Results: Orion Cobalt $ 500 _5_Amplifier___Cobalt_CS_500_5 (whatever that means) and 50x4@4ohm and 200x1@ xxOHM basically if it is 50x4@4ohm that is good but if it is 200x1@4ohm that isn't good lol. so if ANYONE has better Google skills then me please help me out or if anyone can verify with past experiences or a manual that would be awesome! and here is a pic of it! thanks Kenneth

OK!!! I'm doing a electrical upgrade, I have a HO alternator and Hyperflex 0 ga. wire. can't find a crimping tool big enough to crimp the the wire. What can i use to crimp the terminal to the wire??????

Hi Guys, I need a good head unit for spl, so what you got. I have a Alpine cda-7995 receiver rigth now, it is the one with no internal amplifier. It is good for SQ for sucks for SPL. So what will be a good head unit?

I was swapping my pioneer hu out and putting my sony back in, and somewhere during the installation something happened, and now my T250x4 doesn't turn on anymore. The board stinks like a dead amp, but the internal fuse is fine, and the inline fuse is fine =[ I am not sure where to go from here as far as fixing it, everything else in the car works fine, and I'm just weirded out that it might happen to another amp. Thinking about replacing it with a PPI900.4 o.O I checked all my wires, even pulled them out, inspected them and re ran them (I only have 6 or so ft of 1/0 power, and a matching ground run to a block, then from the block to the amps). I sorta feel retarded. M…

Kinda in a jam here guys. My Clarion HU has took a shit on me. I cant turn my volume up to test before it blinks, cuts off, and shuts everything down. After it resets it come right back on and it plays fine at a moderate to a quite loud level, but it's cutting off on me before I can get it to full volume. I need some opinions on a new one. What I want is a Pioneer 880PRS, but I don't have time to wait around on a used one to show up. I need one now even if that means finding one that does what I need and keeping my eyes peeled for something better. The options I need are unfortunately becoming obsolete and giving way to DVD, navigation, blue ticks and all that shit. I do…

im thinking of giving my bl's and 1500D to my brother and saving up for some BTL's and a new amp. ive decided i dont really care about good sound quality with my subs....i just want loud ass bass something that doesnt sound horrible, and something that can take abuse, and i know these can...and i love Fi subwoofers. i know autotek makes good amps, but would this be a good one to power 2 12" BTL's or is it too much? also, they are rated at 4k watts rms, but how many watts do you think i could get out of them? http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=18160 the 3000 and 4000 are both the same price on onlinecarstereo.com so which would be more practical? info…

Just bought a Optima red top for a starter battery and a Shuriken BT100 for the trunk. Never upgraded my electrical before, in fact I will doing big 3 for the first time as well. Which brings me to my confusion. With all the 0 gauge wiring why do all the terminals I see for sale have only one 0 gauge input and then a 2/4 and 8's? I see kukonceptz has a triple 0 gauge terminal that is compatible up to 4 gauge but Im not sure if I will need anything higher for my positive terminal on the hood battery. Also, will I need terminals for the rear battery? Trying to get what I need and get it cheap without being crappy Pretty much what anyone wants to do. Would really appreciate…

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I've been looking into buying a new sub amp for my car. I am in a slow building process as of now I have done the big 3 with 1/0 ofc from xs power and I ordered more wiring to run to the trunk. I am almost done building my amp rack and now I'm trying to decide on what amp to get. I have it done to 3 that I had in mind that run the same power and are supposedly reliable. The 3 that I had in mind are the IA 10.1 or the Sundown SAZ 1200 or the DC 1.2K. The sub I will be ordering is a FI SSD fully loaded. I listen mostly to rap and salsa as far as my music preference goes. I am open to other suggestions as well but I want to hear what people have to say about them as far powe…

I'm looking into getting one Fi team 18 sub. Will 2 rockford fosgate t2500bdcp amps be too much power?