Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Looking at the Audio Que 20 amplifier... and am wondering about the power claims they are making. I'm going as basic as you can get... the amplifier has 3 sets of 0 gauge power inputs. They claim the amplifier can consume up to 2,000 amps of current and over 1,000 amps of current consistently. Yet 100% ofc 0 gauge wire is rated around 250-350 amps of current up to 10'. Just looking at this, how can the amp be provided with the proper amperage at the correct voltage with enough inputs to only accept 750-1050 amps of current? Just wondering. Thanks for the help.

okay for my wife exsisting system she has 2 kicker 15 inch subs with 1000rms each..... to stay within a 350 or below budget what amp will push clean basss,,, i am obviously staying away from/// boss,crunch, .. but i never had cadene nor planet audio,,, some good help please

FI BTL 15" dual 2 ohm, wired to 1 Rockford t1500bd The birth sheet wattage is 1700, so after calculation the voltage output should be 41.23. I tested with a dmm to find the voltage and at this level the sub is not as loud as a btl should be. also the amp gets to this 41.23 volts with no punch eq, and very little gain. could anyone explain this because this sub should take all the power of this amp and then some but is not sounding like a btl right now. with twice the voltage output the sub still sounds good, is loud, but the amp gets extremely hot.

I had been using an RE Audio XTX3000.1 but decided to move over to the new Sun Down. On paper they're very close in specs but in real life it seems like the RE has substantially more power output. I have the gain turned all the way up on the SAZ-1500D with no clipping and still isn't real strong until I turn the volume way up. The RE gets louder and a much lower volume levels. Any idea if this is normal? I'm sure both companies probably rate their amps different. FWIW, I'm running a fully loaded Fi Q12 in a sealed 1.2 cu ft box (after sub displacement). I've got a Diehard Platinum battery with 1/0 AWG big 3 done.

well im lookin for a new amplifier i have a crappy one at the moment i got it free thats the only reason i have it. theres this jbl amp ive been lookkin at its 400 watts ? idk much bout jbl and i was gonna ask for yalls opinions .. i also was lookin at a rockford fosgate or memphis... the memphis is only 150 watts its a 2 channel amp..i want more power than that whats yalls opinions? i want enough power so i can keep the amp for a while cuz ill be upgradin subs sooner or later.. and i dont want to have to purchase amps over and over again

as title says im looking to buy a Rockford Fosgate T2000.1bd if anyone has one laying around or can find me one on a LEGIT internet website please let me know! all the help is appreciated!!!

Ok so here's the deal, I have my 18" SSD and I'm about to get a bigger amp for it (aq1200d or audiopipe or sax1200d) back to the point.. I want to make sure I have enough power to give it. I drive a 97 civic I think its like a 70amp alt. All stock electrical ( im also doing the big 3 to all 1/0 next week ) but I dont know enough and need help about batteries. Basically if I add a Battery is that going to be enough power to run my subs or do second battery's not even help on a stock alt? I see a bunch of people on here who always have batteries added and so I want to know if i can just add a battery to the back and be ok with my stock alt. I'm think along the lines of a…

I can get both amps BNIB for ~900.00 shipped. of the two which would you pick? I know you would automatically think the BC5500 because of the 1000 rms difference, but based on clamp results, I've seen Sundown amps do very close to this at 1ohm. FWIW my mids and highs amps are Sundown and it would be nice to match BUT it's not the end all be all of my decision as they won't be seen. this is not a VS thread, I know they are both stout amps, this is more of a poll to tip the scales as I'm pretty much even in my decision and it would be nice to get some fresh perspectives and maybe others will know something that I don't about each amp.

Hi Guys, I need a good head unit for spl, so what you got. I have a Alpine cda-7995 receiver rigth now, it is the one with no internal amplifier. It is good for SQ for sucks for SPL. So what will be a good head unit?

Just for background information: I use to have two 12 inch Cerwin Vega's (bought in '03, no idea was model) rated for 400w rms. They are 4 ohms, single voice coil. I have them in a sealed enclosure. It was not made to spec, but it was the closest premade box I could find to spec. I think each woofer wanted something like 2.1 ft^3 or something. Lastly, I bought a cheap amp..Boss Ripper 995. Below are the specs on the amp: 2- Channel MOSFET Power Amplifier Power Max (2 Ohm) 500w x 4 Power RMS (4 Ohm) 260w x 4 Power Bridged: 1000w x 2 Tri-Mode VU meters [power level] Cooling fans Remote subwoofer level control Line and speaker level inputs MOSFET power supply Line out…

ok so i have the audiobahn flame q 12's (yes i know not the greatest but thats what i have to work with till later) ok so i know these say 1100rms but im pretty sure thats over rated but anyways i have them in a ported box right now with about 400 rms i think going to each one but i know they can do more cause they are barely moving....so does anyone know how much they can really handle or whats a good mono block that will push them good just not to the limit????

Alright got my system all ready to go and wired for tuning. First i set my gains using an oscilloscope on my sub mono amp. All went well. Then i set my gains on my 4 channel amp. All went well. I plugged in the speakers, and i am getting high pitch scratching noises that vary and change intermittently. When I turn off the subwoofer rca output from the headunit to the rear, the sub no longer gets any signal obviously.. but if i have rcas plugged into the 4 channel amp...... the sub then starts playing music! could this be my twisted pair rca cables? should i switch to coaxial?

hey guys, i have been thinking. right now im stuck on which amps to use on these solo x's. its between 2 kicker kx 1200.1's (i can get some decent deals on) or i just found the soundstream rubicon series 1600 watts amp (id get 2, 1 for each sub) there rated 40Ax4 which is 160A for $220 new with warrenty. iv been doing research and they do right at rated power. so what do u think. im stuck here HELP!!!! if anyone knows of some other good rated power amps (around 450 for 1 or 225 for 1(id buy 2) let me know. ps, im ordering my 220 amp alt. here soon and 2 optima yellow tops so power is no issue here. here is a link to the soundstream http://www.amazon.com/Soundstream-RUB1-…

Ok I hope I set this up correctly. Got another question for everyone. Decided to make it a poll. Years ago in the area I grew up in everyone used bass blockers to remove lower frequencies from the smaller speakers 4x6, 5x7, 6.5 and 6x9's. Keeping all the lower bass to the larger speakers. The smaller the speaker the higher the bass blocker frequency. The larger the speaker the lower the blocker frequency. Till you got to the subs. Then they were controlled by the amp so none were used. I have never used them myself. But I am now finding myself looking into purchacing some for my non amped, non component speakers ( the ones listed in the poll ). What are your op…

ok so while i was looking around for a 4channel(still waitin on pm from flakko) and just for other stuff i came across this and the price looked really good and so does the amp so i wanted to ask you guys if you have seen this before.It doesnt give much info on the amp and i wanted to know like the signal to noise and the THD and all that good stuff.So any info would be good. http://www.overstock.com/?page=proframe&prod_id=1977918

Is there really any advantage to running this amp on a sub. I know alot of sound quality guys love this amp to use on tweeters and mids. I was under the impression that once this amp pushes out a certain amount of watts it switches from class a mode to an a/b amp. The only advantage i see is that its stable down to .25 ohms. Anybody that knows about this amp please comment

I was swapping my pioneer hu out and putting my sony back in, and somewhere during the installation something happened, and now my T250x4 doesn't turn on anymore. The board stinks like a dead amp, but the internal fuse is fine, and the inline fuse is fine =[ I am not sure where to go from here as far as fixing it, everything else in the car works fine, and I'm just weirded out that it might happen to another amp. Thinking about replacing it with a PPI900.4 o.O I checked all my wires, even pulled them out, inspected them and re ran them (I only have 6 or so ft of 1/0 power, and a matching ground run to a block, then from the block to the amps). I sorta feel retarded. M…

So I was browsing eBay for an amp to power my gf's Dcon coming in within the next day or two, and I came across this... LANZAR 800 W 2 Channel High Power MOSFET Amp VCT2010 Now before I'm flamed for even mentioning lanzar on SSA, realize that this is for my gf's car, not anything major. Just some bass on a budget.. (Good budget 10" sub) My question: Would this be something optimal for my situation? It says it's 2 ohm bridgeable, @ 800 watts, so in reality, about 400-500 watts. The sub is a D4. I could wire in parellel into a 2ohm load and bridge to this amp and have it powered about right for it's RMS rating. For the price, I didn't think this could be that bad.. especia…

hey, i have 2 12" sundown SA'12's soon to be 4 or 6 in total. they are all dual 2 ohm subs, i wanted to know if any 1 has any suggestions for a amp that will give at least 2000-2500 RMS @ .5 ohms or 2 ohms and no more than $400 plus shipping. let me know if you have something your selling under these terms and or let me know if you know any amps that are able of doing the job for my system. thanks

can someone send me the link to the website that u just plug in the numbers for amps subs and impedance's...i feel really handicaped right now i cant find it anywere thanks

ok guys one my home from work my friends subs im using Kenwoods 12" 400 rms each stop working as soon as i get ready to pull in. i look under my hood and my power wire fuse holder looks like it blew up.... kinda in half.... ( I was only using these subs for a week until i get my FI SSD 15 today or tomorrow.) Any ideas why this happened? i had a spare KIcker 4 awg wire so i wasnt to mad lol.

I am going to start installing my system next week and I am going to add a 2400 amp kinetik battery in the cab of my truck. I have seen some people say that all I need to do to hook up the 2 batteries is run 0 gauge wire with a fuse connecting them. But I have also seen people say when you run 2 batteries you need to wire in a relay or isolator between the 2 batteries. What do most of you run? Specs: Stock Alt. Optima Red Top for the started battery 2400 amp kinetik battery 0 gauge wire Audioque 2200 watt amp 2 Fi Q15's Kenwood 140 4ch. amp -Alex

who uses it? whered you get it and for how much? i need to order some power wire, 1/0 or 2/0, maybe bigger, i dont know yet. its for my 16v batteries, alt, and my soundstream xxx10000. should i run welding wire? or get nice caraudio 1/0? ive been reading about both, and its like 50/50...some like welding, some say it sucks. i dont know which i should buy. VJ

Kinda in a jam here guys. My Clarion HU has took a shit on me. I cant turn my volume up to test before it blinks, cuts off, and shuts everything down. After it resets it come right back on and it plays fine at a moderate to a quite loud level, but it's cutting off on me before I can get it to full volume. I need some opinions on a new one. What I want is a Pioneer 880PRS, but I don't have time to wait around on a used one to show up. I need one now even if that means finding one that does what I need and keeping my eyes peeled for something better. The options I need are unfortunately becoming obsolete and giving way to DVD, navigation, blue ticks and all that shit. I do…