Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

hey guys, i have been thinking. right now im stuck on which amps to use on these solo x's. its between 2 kicker kx 1200.1's (i can get some decent deals on) or i just found the soundstream rubicon series 1600 watts amp (id get 2, 1 for each sub) there rated 40Ax4 which is 160A for $220 new with warrenty. iv been doing research and they do right at rated power. so what do u think. im stuck here HELP!!!! if anyone knows of some other good rated power amps (around 450 for 1 or 225 for 1(id buy 2) let me know. ps, im ordering my 220 amp alt. here soon and 2 optima yellow tops so power is no issue here. here is a link to the soundstream http://www.amazon.com/Soundstream-RUB1-…

I ran new wires today, and installed the 9887. I tested the deck out with the passives, so the deck is fine. On active I seem to not be getting sound out of the tweeters. I have the deck set on "3-way" mode, which I think is correct. The manual says to run the tweeter wire to rear channel for me is 3 and 4. And I ran the mids to channel 1 and 2. I'm thinking it might be the "input channel" setting on the amplifier. I also shut the crossovers on the amp to Off. Input Channel Options: 1)"Setting this switch to

Ok so here's the deal, I have my 18" SSD and I'm about to get a bigger amp for it (aq1200d or audiopipe or sax1200d) back to the point.. I want to make sure I have enough power to give it. I drive a 97 civic I think its like a 70amp alt. All stock electrical ( im also doing the big 3 to all 1/0 next week ) but I dont know enough and need help about batteries. Basically if I add a Battery is that going to be enough power to run my subs or do second battery's not even help on a stock alt? I see a bunch of people on here who always have batteries added and so I want to know if i can just add a battery to the back and be ok with my stock alt. I'm think along the lines of a…

Ok my friend has a type s in a ported box and a type r in a sealed box, both are prefab and both D4. He was told that the amp he has which is the Legacy LA1990 was $400 but he said he had no idea what kind of amp it was or even the name of it. i found it online and its more like a $100 amp, But im confused about the rms some websites are giving it. All i can find is 2×1000 output 1×2000 bridged output, 2×175 output 2×260 bridged and something like 0.04×1000 output. Now he told me about 2 weeks ago he had it wired at 4 ohms than yesterday he told me he had it bridged. He honestly thought he was running more than 1000watts and after i told him his amp was probably only 400 …

CAP50 - Alumapro 50 Farad Capacitor/Distribution Center Whats your oppinions on these? This guy I work with used to be a car audio installer, and we were talking today and he was swearing by this saying that is was better than a regular capacitor, better than a battery. He was saying it keeps your voltage at 14.4 no matter what. I was just wondering if anyone here has used them or has any first hand experience them offer up your oppinions. No I don't believe in capacitors Im not a cap fanatic or anything but he swore up and down it was different so I just figured it'd be worth it to get you guys oppinions.

I just noticed the other day that when I hit the nav. button on my 8120 it just goes to a black screen. The rest of the 8120 seems to be working perfectly.... except for the blacked out nav. screen. I know that the Garmin nav. on the 8120 is hard drive based so I'm wondering if the HD has crashed or died..... I tried resetting the unit but still no luck. Anyone else run across or heard of this issue before? I'm calling Kenwood on Monday but just looking for ideas first.

im thinking of giving my bl's and 1500D to my brother and saving up for some BTL's and a new amp. ive decided i dont really care about good sound quality with my subs....i just want loud ass bass something that doesnt sound horrible, and something that can take abuse, and i know these can...and i love Fi subwoofers. i know autotek makes good amps, but would this be a good one to power 2 12" BTL's or is it too much? also, they are rated at 4k watts rms, but how many watts do you think i could get out of them? http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=18160 the 3000 and 4000 are both the same price on onlinecarstereo.com so which would be more practical? info…

Just bought a Optima red top for a starter battery and a Shuriken BT100 for the trunk. Never upgraded my electrical before, in fact I will doing big 3 for the first time as well. Which brings me to my confusion. With all the 0 gauge wiring why do all the terminals I see for sale have only one 0 gauge input and then a 2/4 and 8's? I see kukonceptz has a triple 0 gauge terminal that is compatible up to 4 gauge but Im not sure if I will need anything higher for my positive terminal on the hood battery. Also, will I need terminals for the rear battery? Trying to get what I need and get it cheap without being crappy Pretty much what anyone wants to do. Would really appreciate…

Kinda in a jam here guys. My Clarion HU has took a shit on me. I cant turn my volume up to test before it blinks, cuts off, and shuts everything down. After it resets it come right back on and it plays fine at a moderate to a quite loud level, but it's cutting off on me before I can get it to full volume. I need some opinions on a new one. What I want is a Pioneer 880PRS, but I don't have time to wait around on a used one to show up. I need one now even if that means finding one that does what I need and keeping my eyes peeled for something better. The options I need are unfortunately becoming obsolete and giving way to DVD, navigation, blue ticks and all that shit. I do…

I have read the amp setting tutorial on CA.com and it says to play a 60hz tone and set your gains to the AC voltage for your RMS. My question is wouldn't it be better to set the gains based on your box tuning because the amp puts out more power near box tuning to avoid clipping or would you still use a 60 hz tone? Like my box is tuned to 40 hz wouldn' it be better to tune my system with a 40hz test tone? Correct me if I am wrong, please and since I listen to rap I should use a -3db tone right? And just wondering does anybody know what db tones are used on Bass Mekanik Quad Maximus? Could I use that to set my gains safely?

ok guys one my home from work my friends subs im using Kenwoods 12" 400 rms each stop working as soon as i get ready to pull in. i look under my hood and my power wire fuse holder looks like it blew up.... kinda in half.... ( I was only using these subs for a week until i get my FI SSD 15 today or tomorrow.) Any ideas why this happened? i had a spare KIcker 4 awg wire so i wasnt to mad lol.

My only request for this is that you have owned the unit. I dont think your favorite can truly be something you have never owned. You also must say why it was your favorite. Of the ones ive owned I must say that my favorite is the Eclipse CD8053. It was really easy to use for all of the things you could change and tweek. I think my only real complaint was the touch rotary knobs that caused me to go from volume 12 to 345524352 billion with what felt like one click of the wheel sometimes.

I'm looking into getting one Fi team 18 sub. Will 2 rockford fosgate t2500bdcp amps be too much power?

I was swapping my pioneer hu out and putting my sony back in, and somewhere during the installation something happened, and now my T250x4 doesn't turn on anymore. The board stinks like a dead amp, but the internal fuse is fine, and the inline fuse is fine =[ I am not sure where to go from here as far as fixing it, everything else in the car works fine, and I'm just weirded out that it might happen to another amp. Thinking about replacing it with a PPI900.4 o.O I checked all my wires, even pulled them out, inspected them and re ran them (I only have 6 or so ft of 1/0 power, and a matching ground run to a block, then from the block to the amps). I sorta feel retarded. M…

what are some of the ugliest amps u've ever seen??were they ugly and dependable/underrated/efficient???or just plain ugly???my vote goes to this lil' gangsta!!!!!! Gangsta is here and it be bad-ass! The new Gangsta series from Crunch is aimed at the rap and hip-hop crowd and all those bad boyz who want to make a statement with their tunes: Hittin' hard and rollin' loud. Heat dissipation is one of the most important factors in amplifier design and Crunch

I have a DD 9512 (dual 2 ohm) and two Autotek MM1400.1D's. I wanted to run each amp on each coil at first, but I was told this is actually pretty risky and it is a lot safer to strap the amps together.. The only dilemma is that once strapped.. the amps will only be stable at 2 ohms.. but dual 2 ohm drivers can only be wired to 1 ohm or 4 ohm.. if i can keep the voltage between 13.5 and 14 volts at the amps, will it be safe to put a 1 ohm load on the set of strapped amps?

I was just wondering is the Audiopipe AQX35001 a good Amp for the money? There arent but 3 stores who sale it on the whole internet.. It is $475 shipped here http://www.rickiesdiscountelectronics.com/...fier-21902.html $499 plus shipping here http://cardiscountstereos.com/catalog%20pa...ct+%23=AQX35001 and $549 plus shipping here http://www.choicecaraudio.com/Catalog_Page...ct+%23=AQX35001 Here are some of the Specs 1 Ch @ 4ohm: 750w RMS 1 Ch @ 2ohm: 1650w RMS 1 Ch @ 1ohm: 3500w RMS I know that the Audiopipe AP30001D was a good amp for the money at least that is what i heard everywhere. I never personally have heard one

Is there any difference between kinetic racing batteries and regular kinectic batteries? I'm looking for a trunk battery for my build and was looking at an HC2000, but I found a better price on the KR2712. Which looks to be the same battery but in a red case. I went to kinectic's site to look up the racing line of batteries. But they aren't listed anymore. Which I'm guessing is why the racing line is cheaper since it looks to be discontinued.

The amp in question is a Linear Power 4.1HVS taken from another forum.. in the highlighted section above, i know there is a flaw in the maths.. can anyone please point it out for me??

I was going to order my d3100 for my saz3500 tomorrow but i see a lot of good talk about the deka 9a31 and the 8a31. Will i come out better by getting two of the dekas over one d3100?

im runnin out of preout voltage so i decided to buy a line driver, question is, does adding a line driver bypasses the gain of the amp? turning the gain all the way down wouldnt affect the line driver's settings?

So my buddy just got out of prison after 6 years in and he is selling alot of his stuff...he has an amp ive never seen before...mark antony 3000d? Are they good?...i opened it up and its mint....he wants $100 for it...does anyone have specs or know wtf is up with this amp...

http://audioforum.termpro.com/ubb/ultimate...0/t/011112.html im posting this here s if anybody needed to know.......... jamie

I've been looking into buying a new sub amp for my car. I am in a slow building process as of now I have done the big 3 with 1/0 ofc from xs power and I ordered more wiring to run to the trunk. I am almost done building my amp rack and now I'm trying to decide on what amp to get. I have it done to 3 that I had in mind that run the same power and are supposedly reliable. The 3 that I had in mind are the IA 10.1 or the Sundown SAZ 1200 or the DC 1.2K. The sub I will be ordering is a FI SSD fully loaded. I listen mostly to rap and salsa as far as my music preference goes. I am open to other suggestions as well but I want to hear what people have to say about them as far powe…

Im thinking about getting a clarion eq., and I was Wondering if its worth the trouble? I've saw a lot of installs and I don't see to many running them.