Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

CAP50 - Alumapro 50 Farad Capacitor/Distribution Center Whats your oppinions on these? This guy I work with used to be a car audio installer, and we were talking today and he was swearing by this saying that is was better than a regular capacitor, better than a battery. He was saying it keeps your voltage at 14.4 no matter what. I was just wondering if anyone here has used them or has any first hand experience them offer up your oppinions. No I don't believe in capacitors Im not a cap fanatic or anything but he swore up and down it was different so I just figured it'd be worth it to get you guys oppinions.

I just noticed the other day that when I hit the nav. button on my 8120 it just goes to a black screen. The rest of the 8120 seems to be working perfectly.... except for the blacked out nav. screen. I know that the Garmin nav. on the 8120 is hard drive based so I'm wondering if the HD has crashed or died..... I tried resetting the unit but still no luck. Anyone else run across or heard of this issue before? I'm calling Kenwood on Monday but just looking for ideas first.

im thinking of giving my bl's and 1500D to my brother and saving up for some BTL's and a new amp. ive decided i dont really care about good sound quality with my subs....i just want loud ass bass something that doesnt sound horrible, and something that can take abuse, and i know these can...and i love Fi subwoofers. i know autotek makes good amps, but would this be a good one to power 2 12" BTL's or is it too much? also, they are rated at 4k watts rms, but how many watts do you think i could get out of them? http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=18160 the 3000 and 4000 are both the same price on onlinecarstereo.com so which would be more practical? info…

Just bought a Optima red top for a starter battery and a Shuriken BT100 for the trunk. Never upgraded my electrical before, in fact I will doing big 3 for the first time as well. Which brings me to my confusion. With all the 0 gauge wiring why do all the terminals I see for sale have only one 0 gauge input and then a 2/4 and 8's? I see kukonceptz has a triple 0 gauge terminal that is compatible up to 4 gauge but Im not sure if I will need anything higher for my positive terminal on the hood battery. Also, will I need terminals for the rear battery? Trying to get what I need and get it cheap without being crappy Pretty much what anyone wants to do. Would really appreciate…

Kinda in a jam here guys. My Clarion HU has took a shit on me. I cant turn my volume up to test before it blinks, cuts off, and shuts everything down. After it resets it come right back on and it plays fine at a moderate to a quite loud level, but it's cutting off on me before I can get it to full volume. I need some opinions on a new one. What I want is a Pioneer 880PRS, but I don't have time to wait around on a used one to show up. I need one now even if that means finding one that does what I need and keeping my eyes peeled for something better. The options I need are unfortunately becoming obsolete and giving way to DVD, navigation, blue ticks and all that shit. I do…

ok guys one my home from work my friends subs im using Kenwoods 12" 400 rms each stop working as soon as i get ready to pull in. i look under my hood and my power wire fuse holder looks like it blew up.... kinda in half.... ( I was only using these subs for a week until i get my FI SSD 15 today or tomorrow.) Any ideas why this happened? i had a spare KIcker 4 awg wire so i wasnt to mad lol.

I'm looking into getting one Fi team 18 sub. Will 2 rockford fosgate t2500bdcp amps be too much power?

I was swapping my pioneer hu out and putting my sony back in, and somewhere during the installation something happened, and now my T250x4 doesn't turn on anymore. The board stinks like a dead amp, but the internal fuse is fine, and the inline fuse is fine =[ I am not sure where to go from here as far as fixing it, everything else in the car works fine, and I'm just weirded out that it might happen to another amp. Thinking about replacing it with a PPI900.4 o.O I checked all my wires, even pulled them out, inspected them and re ran them (I only have 6 or so ft of 1/0 power, and a matching ground run to a block, then from the block to the amps). I sorta feel retarded. M…

I have a DD 9512 (dual 2 ohm) and two Autotek MM1400.1D's. I wanted to run each amp on each coil at first, but I was told this is actually pretty risky and it is a lot safer to strap the amps together.. The only dilemma is that once strapped.. the amps will only be stable at 2 ohms.. but dual 2 ohm drivers can only be wired to 1 ohm or 4 ohm.. if i can keep the voltage between 13.5 and 14 volts at the amps, will it be safe to put a 1 ohm load on the set of strapped amps?

I was just wondering is the Audiopipe AQX35001 a good Amp for the money? There arent but 3 stores who sale it on the whole internet.. It is $475 shipped here http://www.rickiesdiscountelectronics.com/...fier-21902.html $499 plus shipping here http://cardiscountstereos.com/catalog%20pa...ct+%23=AQX35001 and $549 plus shipping here http://www.choicecaraudio.com/Catalog_Page...ct+%23=AQX35001 Here are some of the Specs 1 Ch @ 4ohm: 750w RMS 1 Ch @ 2ohm: 1650w RMS 1 Ch @ 1ohm: 3500w RMS I know that the Audiopipe AP30001D was a good amp for the money at least that is what i heard everywhere. I never personally have heard one

Is there any difference between kinetic racing batteries and regular kinectic batteries? I'm looking for a trunk battery for my build and was looking at an HC2000, but I found a better price on the KR2712. Which looks to be the same battery but in a red case. I went to kinectic's site to look up the racing line of batteries. But they aren't listed anymore. Which I'm guessing is why the racing line is cheaper since it looks to be discontinued.

The amp in question is a Linear Power 4.1HVS taken from another forum.. in the highlighted section above, i know there is a flaw in the maths.. can anyone please point it out for me??

I was going to order my d3100 for my saz3500 tomorrow but i see a lot of good talk about the deka 9a31 and the 8a31. Will i come out better by getting two of the dekas over one d3100?

So my buddy just got out of prison after 6 years in and he is selling alot of his stuff...he has an amp ive never seen before...mark antony 3000d? Are they good?...i opened it up and its mint....he wants $100 for it...does anyone have specs or know wtf is up with this amp...

I've been looking into buying a new sub amp for my car. I am in a slow building process as of now I have done the big 3 with 1/0 ofc from xs power and I ordered more wiring to run to the trunk. I am almost done building my amp rack and now I'm trying to decide on what amp to get. I have it done to 3 that I had in mind that run the same power and are supposedly reliable. The 3 that I had in mind are the IA 10.1 or the Sundown SAZ 1200 or the DC 1.2K. The sub I will be ordering is a FI SSD fully loaded. I listen mostly to rap and salsa as far as my music preference goes. I am open to other suggestions as well but I want to hear what people have to say about them as far powe…

Im thinking about getting a clarion eq., and I was Wondering if its worth the trouble? I've saw a lot of installs and I don't see to many running them.

okay for my wife exsisting system she has 2 kicker 15 inch subs with 1000rms each..... to stay within a 350 or below budget what amp will push clean basss,,, i am obviously staying away from/// boss,crunch, .. but i never had cadene nor planet audio,,, some good help please

I know there numbers but would like to know,of any personal opinion's which one and why

So I'm going to be running active soon. All crescendo. I already have the soundstream rubicon 2.600. (300w x2 @2ohm) so I'm planning on running that on the 4 crescendo 6.5s. Since it seems the perfect fit rms wise. I also already have a Lanzar VCT4110. (100w x2 Bridged @4ohm) Ive heard these are overrated, so input on that would be nice. should I run that bridged @4ohm for 100w on the 2 crescendo ft1s. Orrrrr.... buy a soundstream rubicon 2.250. (75w x2 @4ohm) It is closer to rms, but I know the ft1s could handle 25 more watts. Thought of soundstream only so they would be matching, it would look nicer, although the Lanzar is already mounted under my front seat. O…

Im currently checking out amplifiers to be used on an SQ setup in a sedan. Currently looking for good sounding amplifiers that have tremendous flexibilities on its crossover network. As of now all I have seen perfect would be from brand names such as DLS namely the ultimates and Audison namely the LRx. Are these the only options available with those requirements? i find it hard to look for amps with the same crossover functionality like those 2 that can do an active setup. Any other recomendations? Hoping to get feedback possibly that would not go over the said prices of the amps. Possible even cheaper than those two. The lower the price with the same quality and spec w…

Hey guys, I have a couple of questions in regard to properly setting the gains for my new SSA Xcon 18. I have a Pioneer AVH P4300DVD head unit with a Rockford T1500.bdCP amplifier, and the Xcon in a custom 6.5 cubes ported box tuned to 33hz. I am using a DMM to set the gains and have read that the amp gains are supposed to be set while all the HU EQ settings are flat (or on 0), the volume on 3/4 the max setting, and a 50hz test tone in the cd player. I am not sure how right that is so I decided to ask. My questions is what is the best way adjust the sub "bass boost" and "output level" settings on the HU? Do I put them on my desired point before adjusting the sub amp gains…

Hi Guys, I need a good head unit for spl, so what you got. I have a Alpine cda-7995 receiver rigth now, it is the one with no internal amplifier. It is good for SQ for sucks for SPL. So what will be a good head unit?

I've seen these batteries locally in Houston but can't find much info on them. Looks identical to a kinetic. Cheap rip off? Or just a generic at a lower price?

I'm in the process of adding a pair of 12" GCONS to the stock Fender stereo system in my 2012 Volkswagen GLI. The subs will be in a sealed enclosure from DC Creations are going to be powered by a Kicker ZX1000.1 (1298w rms according to birth sheet) controlled through the LC2i. I have 2 questions about some adjustments I'm unsure of 1) When setting the gains using the DMM method to obtain the corresponding output voltage for the amp's rated capacity (1000W RMS) - I need the most clean power I can get from this amp. Should I be using 1298w as stated on the birth-sheet to come up with the voltage number I'm looking for? or should I be using 1000W as rated. 2) With the LC2…

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