Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I am looking at an amp for my pioneer premiere ts-c720prs speakers and came across a refurbished usx2080 for $50 plus shipping... It does 80rms at 4 ohms and is made by zed audio... Just wondering if anyone knows anything about these? Here is a link to them on the ebay page... http://cgi.ebay.com/US-Acoustics-USX...d=p16 38.m118 I was also wondering about a us acoustics usa2100.... Can't seem to find much specs on this amp... I think i can get it pretty cheap though.... I have found some things that say 100x2 at 4 ohms... I am also wondering how these compare to a zx250.2 or a kz250.2 cause i can get refurbed of both of those for 65-80 plus shipping... Also, what is the d…

When an active x-over is set, amps that power mids and highs, do the x-overs on these amps need to be set to Full Pass? Also, amps that power subwoofers, do these amps' LPF need to be set as high as possible? and if their is a subsonic filter on the active x-over, does the subsonic filter on the amp need to be set as low as possible?

well need some rateing and opions on a PG ZX350 and a MEI DA7400 both are 4ch just looking for a low cost 4ch and both of these are $100 trying to get 120-150 RMS at 2 ohms. thanks mc

I read quite a few questions regarding electrical supply and demand so I decided to post this link to help figure out any electrical dilemma you may be having. http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp

Well, I was planning on running two 15 or 18 Fi audio Q/Bl/Btl. On on a orion 2500D. but found a RF T30001 BD for like $750, seems like a good upgrade for not much more...right? opinions..?

Ok so i'm on my first active setup. I have a set of kicker RS6.5 comps. on a sundown SAX-100.4. When we hooked everthing up and tested it for the first time the tweets were working and the mids weren't. So i started unplugging RCAs, if i move around one set of RCAs then i get mids and highs out of only one side. I can even manage to get both tweets but not the passenger midbass to work. So first i thought maybe either RCAs or Bad input. Well turned out the midbass was grounding out. FIXED. Ok now i can't get bother left and right to work unless i run another set of RCAs from the output side to the input side. see pic..... So now i figure that i have a bad set …

hi, i am going to be getting 2 12" SX and i am looking for an amp for them. they are only dvc2 so the ohm loads it can either be .5, 2 if i get a mono amp or 1 or 4 ohm if i get 2 mono amps. i would like to be as cheap as possable as that means i can get them sooner. which is a good thing. i was thinking of 2 md1d or a md3d if i can find out if they are .5 ohm stable. any suggestions?

Just threw in some more but not done yet!

I have a 86 150 with a 5.0 in it. It came stock with a 60 amp alternator. My neighbor gave me box full of stuff he took off of a 94 mustang 5.0 H.O. One of the parts happend to be a stock 130 amp alternator. Since i need to get a bigger alternator anyways and strapped for cash i figured i can use this alternator. Its a direct bolt in, but the plugs are different though. My stock one has 2 plugs instead of the one plug. But one of the plugs on my wiring harness is the same style plug on the new(er) one. So wat i did is that i plugged(sp) in the plug that looked the same and hooked up a 4 guage power wire directly to my battery. Installed it and cranked it over, i…

I'm currently running 2 dual 2ohm sa-12's and plan on upgrading my amp (currently a crunch 1500 lol, it's getting the job done for now) to 2 saz-1500d's. Right now I'm just saving up money for the amps and working on my electrical. I currently added a lead straight from the alternator to the battery. Replaced the lead from the battery to the chassis and sanded it to bare metal. Added a lead from the block to the the battery. And finally today I added a lead from the block to the chassis (using the same spots as the other grounds). Is upgrading this wire even necessary? After I put that on I had a reading of 14.1X. Turned on the system and it stayed pretty consistent not d…

im adding a kinetik 2400 hc in the back. i have a duramaxx 900 in the front do i need a isolater cause i keep reading on here u do and some people say u dont what should i do?

Hey all. I have a 12" Fi BL wired like this: My question is that I bought 8AWG to wire the thing, problem is, the terminals only accept about 12AWG. So I trimmed about 1/2 or more the wires at the stripped ends, making it 16AWG, and I used 12AWG to wire the + --> + and - --> - and cut the ends the same way.. Should I be concerned, or what would have been a better option? Those damn holes are so small. =[ PS: twisted speaker wire is a PITA to strip.

im trying to figure out which amp will be better with the proper electrical. 1. MA Audio 5082HX http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/MA_5082HX/ 2. Memphis 4kW thanks for your help

Trying to decide on an amp for 2 RE audio SR10s. They're rated at about 350rms. Each will be going in a .88 ft^3 ported enclosure. Trying to stay under $350. Alpine pdx 1.600 Kicker zx750.1 Cadence DCA-1000 Haven't ordered subs yet so any wiring configuration is an options. And i'm open to any other options or suggestions.(except something directly available from the manufacturer. This is replacing stolen equipment so I'm dealing with AJRS, awesome company btw.) Thanks

Hey guys, Ive searched and searched for threads and information regarding how to strap your amps and how to wire the sub appropriate but nothing is very clear and I dont want a mistake on my hands... so heres what I have going on, I am strapping two APSM-1500s with a dual 2 ohm sub. how do i need do i need to run speaker wire between the amps? and should I wire my subwoofer down to 4 ohm if Im trying to get a 2 ohm load from the amps? I appreciate the help

Ok I bought a 2nd battery for my car and wanted to know if it would be ok if i ran 0 guage from front bat positive to rear bat positive. and just ground the second battery in the trunk. I'm also doing the big three.

Can get a great deal on one and was trying to get some Specifications. http://www.carsound.com/reviews/amps/zr360.html http://www.crutchfield.com/S-nvAPS3E4lWG/c...;i=206ZR360#Tab http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-support/manu...s/ZRAmpsMan.pdf I know that this is a cheater amp but dose any one have any experience with this amp or any one who has ?

Last time i knew the majority of JL Audio amps were made in China with the slash series being made in Korea has this changed? The reason is on another forum there are people that are convinced they are made in miramar florida.

First off, another comparison that may have already occured yea yea sorry. Looking at a Saz-1500D for $400 or a 2200d for $389? Obviously a difference in power but Sundowns are usually underrated with great CS and don't hear TOO much bout the AQ's besides ppl that have them but know nothing bout any other amps. Any opinions whatsoever....gracias! lol Thanks Chris Hasbrook

im about to start a 4 stock with 1ohm DVC 18" fi ssd blowthrough on my 95 ram singlecab and i am looking for some pretty good prices on either a powerbass XA-3000d or the massive audio P3000.1

I need a amp for a set of alpine type r component speakers price not a factor, someone please point me to the right amp.

As the title states, I need to get my hands on a decent but not overly expensive amp that can do 1000WRMS @ a 2 ohm load. I have a older Fosgate 1000.1BD which would work real good im sure since it makes its power right at 2 ohms but its a little screwy and im not going to waste my patience on that pos lol. The Audiopipe 15001D caught my eye even thought it makes its power @ 1 ohm its not far off with 950w @ 2 ohms. Anything else out there I should look into? more is always better but the vehicle has a stock electrical system so running this D1 Sub at 0.5 isnt an option at this point lol

alright right im new here and im not the one to ask alot of questions or post alot of threads. so dnt worry about me postin dumb post. anyway now i have a fi btl 15 in a 4.5 box with a soundstorm amp in a mazda tribute. it hits but i know my sub can handle more power cus at times it clips and i think my sub is to powerful for my amp. i wanna know will this amp begood for this sub.....http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16293_PowerBass+ASA-2200.1D.html

Hey all.Im going to be buying a 2001 Mitsubishi Galant and im needing to get a HO alt.Ive been searching the internet for over an hour now and all I found was a 180amp alt,but im wanting a bit more output than that.So I was wondering if someone could tell me where I could get a 200+ amp HO alt for the car.The engine is a 2.4L 4 cylinder.Thanks

Hey there. I have a 1998 Jeep Wrangler Sahara edition and i have absolutely no bass in my car. I'm leaning towards a downfiring sealed enclosure with two 10" Alpine Type R 1023D. They peak at 1800watts and 600watts RMS. The sealed enclosure provides them with 0.85 cubic feet of air space per sub. What amplifier can really make these subs sound crisp, clean, and provide deep full bass? Hifonics? Kicker? JL audio? Any thoughts on the amp or the set up in general would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.