Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I am wanting to upgrade my system to 2000-3000 watts. I don't know to much about batteries and such and im not sure how many/what size batteries i would need to stay at about 14 volts. Also my truck puts out alt puts out 105 amps, Would i need a HO alt? Just trying to figure things out so i can figure out how much this is gunna cost me.

when running multiple amps what is the best way to run (1) 0ga and (2) 4ga with only one run of 0ga from the battery under the hood. i am trying to avoid doing multiple runs (knu is 1.40 to 3.40 per ft.) or avoid using one of those cheap octagon looking blocks that has 6 different apps. i want to use anl fuses. 300 and (2) 100's. anyone run into this same problem and found something that worked better?

Alright well I added an amp to my car for testing. I unplugged the battery and had to plug it back in and when I tried to start it, it had troubles starting because of the disconnectoin of the battery. So When I went to start it I also tried to put a cd in. The cd was just sitting half way in so while I tried to start it again and just pushed the cd in. The cd player will not read it, and it cannot eject it becuase it doesn't see it as it's in there. It is a 2002 ford explorer, and it is the regular (not 6 disc) cd changer. I read to either grab it with plyers (can't find needle nose small enough) or take it out. I don't know how to take it out either so can someone help!

I have a 2005 4runner Limited with the JBL package. I am about to install my headunit and have already gotten my wiring harness and dash kit, but need to know if there is anything else specific I will need. Seen a few modules that are said to be needed to bypass items in the 4Runner. Not really sure what it meant or if needed. Anyone who has done an install on a 4th Gen 4runner (03-09) please help. Thank you.

Ok, first off to get started i have a 15" Fi SSD flatwind option, US Amps XT2000D (1000rms x 1ohm), and a pioneer headunit thats 2.2volts. i have my bass on my headunit all the way lowest it can go, and the bass boost on my amp (hookd up to remote) all the way up, then i have my subwoofer level on my HU +2 (-4 thru +4). right now my gain is about halway on my amp, is that an appropriate spot to put it or can i put it higher. i just got my sub 2 days ago so should i keep my gain low for a few weeks or so to break it in then put my gain to about 3/4.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16354_...al+KD-A305.html I think I will get this to replace my stock headunit. RCA for the subwoofer stage, and 5v preouts. Looks fairly easy to use. Aux input from the ipod, I'll have to buy the ipod adapter another day.... What do you guys think of it.?

When connecting the batt under the hood to the batt in the back does a fuse need to be used in the power wire or can you just connect front batt to the rear batt?

I am looking to buy this head unit due to it's low price versus features...The only problem is that it only has two pre-outs rather than three. In the near future, I would like to add an amp and better door speakers and another amp and a set of 10's or 12's. Does having only two pre-outs make this a deal breaker for some of you who know more than I?

I am just curious since i always here people say that they notice a difference in sound at lower impedance, if 2 ohms will make a noticeable difference in my setup. I currently (and temporarily) am running an MTX 81000d which is rated at 1000w into 2 ohm load. I modified it to run at lower impedance but don't really plan on it. Do you think that there will be a major discernible difference between me running it at 2 or 4 ohms? Will it be as dramatic as an am with rated minimum impedance of 1 ohm running at 1 vs. 4. Just curious because where mine is rated at 2 minimum, i didn't know if it would have the same adverse effect as minimum impedance on something capable of lowe…

Ok so i just bought the 3000 and it requires at least a 300 amp fuse. my question is where do i put it, do i put it right before the amp like i did with the battery fuse is not supposed to be no further than like 12 inches. i dont want to sound stupid but all the amps ive ever owned like a RF T10001 and hifonics and us merlin amps have always had built in fuses.

What kind of Parametric EQ do you guy's recommend? I have a clarion deck, it only has 2 volt pre-outs but its loaded with options such as you can rip someones cd directly on the deck, SD card mp3s, Ipod etc etc. Anyway it only has Bass and Treble for EQ therefore I want to either get a Parametric EQ or maybe one of those high speed 30 band eq's with the clipping light on each band, What kind do you guys recommend? money is a concern and its gotta be black Also where should the eq on my deck be set at when i get one 0 for bass and treble or -6 for bass and treble? I would also like it to be a min of 7 bands

Anyone out there know the rms on the American Bass vfl-175.1 OR has anyone tested one ?

Well, I'm going to be running a AQ2200D (as some of you may know) to power a IA DP 21". Now I'm having some worries about my electrical system. These are my plans: STOCK ALT. It's a 150A Bosch alt. (Possibly 130A, but I'm pretty sure 150.) either 1/0 or 2/0 wiring all the way around. Positive & negative run to the front. (I know bigger is better, but do I need 2/0?) (1) Deka 9A31 in the rear. (Would go PM, but that's out of my budget. Plus, I can't justify spending that much on a single battery when I can get two Dekas for the same price, even though the PMs are better.) That's my starting plans. If this does not work out, I'm going to throw another Deka 9A31 …

Alright so I have a 95 Saturn sl2. I as wondering what to do with my power cable because I cannot fit It in between the negative terminal and the actual battery. So instead I have my power connected to my fuse box which..in my mind is putting so much less power and just not as hood as the direct connection to the battery. Is there like an extension to my terminal I can get or what should I do about this.. Sorry for bad Typing..using my phone

Ok i need to know which one of these amps are the better one to get (am running a 1 ohm load). I narrowed it down to either the Autotek MM 2000, the Soundstream PCX2000D or the Soundstream TRX2000D. I would like to hear from anyone who heard these amps. And which one of these amps do rated power or is closes to rated power. Any input?

I need some help on choosing what amp to run. i have no clue where to even start. im getting 2 12 fi BTL's in a blow through in an s10. just thought id ask for some advice

So here's the question, i just got my saz-1500d in the mail yesterday, and there is a bass knob.. i only really see noobs with one. so are they worth it, i always just tossed them. if i was to turn it up all the way would it start clipping my amp or will it only raise my gain to where it is at on my amp? i have no problem turning down the sub on my headunit.

Has anyone here heard of it or used it? It seems a bit old but IDC much about that. As long as it works. What do you guys think of it? does it put out near rated power? Don't these have a lot of current draw, and are power hungry? LMK because I think I just found a HECK of a deal on this amp... Powering a Fi BTL, wired at 1 ohm but will most likely have the gain alll the way down. looks a little different than the 5082 I've seen... He called it the 582hx, no google searches came up...

I have a memphis 16-2000d amp and it has no fuses. If i use a 300 amp inline fuse in the power wire and hook that straight up to the amp will that be ok?

I know theirs many of these posts about people asking for a good amp to run there sub but I thought id post my own topic to fit my standards...I have/on the way a 15" Fi SSD. Even though I still haven't received my subwoofer and haven't heard it on my current amp I still don't think my US AMPS XT2000D is going to feed it the power i want. with that being said I want some ideas on a good amp that can put out as much power or a good recommended amount of power to push the SSD. my price range would have to be around 200$ or so...idk just thought id get some ideas if i were to get one soon.

im gonna be runnin a clarion VRX 785BT touchscreen head unit.....yellow top under the hood... and havent decided on a battery for the amp yet.. alright im pretty much decided on doin 1 18 in here and was lookin at the nightshade...the Re MT..and a couple others...wanna keepit around $800 or less for the sub and under a $900 on an amp.....i wanna get mid and high 140.s out of it at least any suggestions?

US amps BASS MEKANIK VLS-1 ,... has anybody ever used one or know if this is worth getting?

I have a head unit that puts out 4 volts, is a line driver neccessary? Am using the AQ2200D amp if thats neccessary. Thanks

i am considering purchasing a pc2150 from a forum member. is it possible to put this battery under the hood or is it exclusively a second battery? i am running a zx2500.1 and a 200 amp alt. i need a new stock battery and i need a car audio battery. was hoping i could solve both problems with this one battery.

My friend has an 07 GTI and is thinking of running an AQ 2200D to two Fi Q's. My question is, will this amp be happy powered by the stock alt (120 amp). He doesn't really want to run an extra battery unless absolutely necessary. All suggestions and advice is appreciated.