Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Okay so im asking this question for a friend of mine. He just recently bought a hu from a local shop and they do free instal with the purchase...well they said that his car has a factory amp and that they will have to by pass it by running all new wires which will cost $120. I am still learning but this just doesnt seem right. I mean why would you want to bypass a amplifier? The shop said that running the amp would equal less output to the speakers but bypassing it would make it louder. I just dont quite understand the logic so if someone could explain it would be great. thanks

im adding a kinetik 2400 hc in the back. i have a duramaxx 900 in the front do i need a isolater cause i keep reading on here u do and some people say u dont what should i do?

I want to upgrade my head-unit I currently have Jensen vm9312 (got a good deal on it from friend) but I want something better I want a head-unit that puts out good sound quality and offers adjustments. Don't want to spend a fortune but if it's necessary to spend a couple hundred I can save up I was thinking about the pioneer p8000bt any opinions or suggestions on a good headunit?

Ok, i have a pioneer avic N3 but the rca's are bad on the unit. how do i replace them or repair them. i have used a line output converter but i really dont like to use them. any help would be great. THANKS!!!!!!! Eddie G

I was fooling around with my amp today, turning up the gain gradually, and I was getting excited, sub was pounding a lot harder, and it didnt sound like it was getting any muddier or sound like it was clipping. But then i noticed that once i disconnected the sub and played a tone, the amplifier itself was making a buzzing noise. So i turned back the gain and it went away. I was wondering if this was some kind of built in clipping detector or something along those lines? Have you guys ever encountered something like this? Any info would be great, thanks guys.

Today is not a good day. i got my remote gain yesterday i installed it today.. also The plan was to finally have my subs back. i got my DC's back from rusty. and was happy to slap once again... i opened the box and one was broken:( i called rusty and he is so nice... but that's another story. i was hooking up one of the dcs to see if it works and i heard a hum it then everything turn off.. not the car but my amps and the music.... so i check the fuse in the front and its blown. i replace it and then my rf250.2 turns on. but not the merlin?? i took out the merlin and seen the fuses are blown.. so i replace them.... and then when i hooked it up again.. i heard the hum again…

...a 4 channel amp w/ all 4 channels being used? http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/In-Dash_CD_n_DVD_Receivers/1-DIN_CD_Receiver/KDC-MP342U

Ok so my friend needed an amp so i sold him my mrp-m850. And now im ampless but now i have an excuse for a lil upgrade. As u know the SSD12 is 800 rms. I'll have it in a sealed enclosure (1 SSD12) and im looking for a good bang for the buck amp around 200-250 max. I loved my alpine had no problems with it so i was looking at a alpine mrp-m1000 and their in my price range. Ohh and i only need it to run 2 ohms. U guys like that or noo. Suggestions please. Thanks, Vince

My Alpine PXE-H650 processor will not do a hard reset. According to alpine, I need to hold down the reset button for 10 seconds and it will do a factory reset. This does not happen with mine. I spoke with technical support twice today with no avail. Does anybody know where I can get a copy of the firmware for it? I really do not want to send my processor to them. Thanks!

Talked a buddy of mine into getting two 10" Fi X's for his truck. Looking for a nice amp that will do rated or more and won't break the bank. He'll be getting the BP power option also. Thanks!

US AMPS MERLIN MD1D AMPLIFIER 1200 WATTS RMS AMP - eBay (item 200477055940 end time Jun-26-10 12:02:09 PDT) I have two RE REX subs and want to run them temp on it and i think this is a pretty good deal. If i do push the RE's with this amp i will have to set the gain order not to pop them only reason i ant is because I might keep it for future upgrades Tell me what you think.

Which is better to run to the amp, fuse or circuit breaker?

What should I set my amp to get the best quality I have Hifonics Brutus BXi1208D I also have 2 RE SE12 Dual4

So I’m in the process of upgrading my cars electrical system, I’ve just done the big 3 and would now like to move on to the alternator. One problem thou, i know nothing about them or what kind i would need. Any info on them would be greatly appreciated. I have two amplifiers one a Kicker ZX350.4 and the other a Hifonics Brutus BRZ2400.1D all together they = about 300 amps, idk if this info will help but here it is lol

ok so i do think im gonna just install my new x889 by myself instead of having someone do it for 55 bucks....now i was wondering a couple of things here....they sent the wiring harness to me for free but i wont need that one since ive allready had one installed before right???just the small one that comes with the deck i will use to the one already in there? will butt connectors and some elec tape be fine to do the job with?? Let me know anything else or any help if i forgot anything. OK, now for the second diff part here.....ok i bought a dmm from home depot and i was trying to set my gains but it would never work,im gonna post a pic of it and you guys can tell me if its…

I'm looking into maybe getting an active crossover. I've found Audiocontrol and that seems to be a bit of a fan favorite on here. I was just wondering if anyone else reputable makes them? I can find tons of boss, pyramid, etc but no names that i recognize. (this will be for mids/tweets, sub isn't necessary)

Well today i installed everything the concept amp and the SX 15. well about an hour ago. i turned on the car and no sound then changed cd. and nottin then i hear a BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM and look on the side of the amp and it shows cliping. and its going hard to where my lights dim crazy. the sub is a 2ohm sub i wired down to 1ohm for 1200 watts. what could be the problem the RCA's worked this mornign when i had my 500 watt amp. THANKS ALOT.

I am in need of help. I have the sundown 3k and it has been working without any problems for a while now. I went to bump today and there was nothing so when I opened up the back it was in protect with the slight blue of the power light being on. I didnt do anything out of the ordinary and when I shut it off last it was working perfect. I took the backing off and there doesnt look like anything wrong but yet again I dont know nothing so it could be blown for all I know. What I have done as far as trouble shooting: removed RCA wires and turned on still went into protect Removed speaker wires but still goes into protect removed power wire and of course nothing happens Let me…

Ok so I mounted my amp on my enclosure. Well after blasting my system for a couple months it failed. One day my sub started sounding slappy. So I took my sub out, looked okay. Put it back in its place. Well I checked everything wiring etc. I then moved my amp around and heard a rattle. This is what I found, broken off capacitor, thats what DBR told me it was. And then I found 2 burned resistors behind the RCA input/outputs. Anyone that can help me get this back to playing please hit me up. I sent these same pics to DBR and they told me they couldnt fix it, and there was another shop I could ask about it. The board is not burned, it just looks black because of the burned r…

my amp has been magnetized sitting in my closet for a few days. screws and tools will get pulled to it...is this a bad thing?

I'm currently running 2 dual 2ohm sa-12's and plan on upgrading my amp (currently a crunch 1500 lol, it's getting the job done for now) to 2 saz-1500d's. Right now I'm just saving up money for the amps and working on my electrical. I currently added a lead straight from the alternator to the battery. Replaced the lead from the battery to the chassis and sanded it to bare metal. Added a lead from the block to the the battery. And finally today I added a lead from the block to the chassis (using the same spots as the other grounds). Is upgrading this wire even necessary? After I put that on I had a reading of 14.1X. Turned on the system and it stayed pretty consistent not d…

I was wondering... Are there any amps in production that have: Class A: Left & Right channels Class D: Power stage for a subwoofer. All in one package / Amp case? If there isn`t. Is there any reason why this couldn`t be done or hasn`t been done yet?

Well, I was planning on running two 15 or 18 Fi audio Q/Bl/Btl. On on a orion 2500D. but found a RF T30001 BD for like $750, seems like a good upgrade for not much more...right? opinions..?

Hey guys, I already have a 200amp alternator, Exide Orbital Extreme 34XCD battery, big 3 upgrade, and 2-gauge running about 14-15 feet to the hatch, protected by a 200-amp ANL fuse by the battery, with a 3-farad capacitor in the hatch... My old setup that I am upgrading required about 40-50 amps for items other than the stereo (nitrous system, massive fuel pump, etc) as well as about 90 for the old stereo setup, thus about 130-140 amps at most, so the 2-gauge wiring was just fine with the 3-farad cap thrown in for good measure... Now, I am upgrading the amps and speakers in my setup and am looking at about 1500-1700watts RMS, thus about 160-170 amps for the stereo alone, …

First off, another comparison that may have already occured yea yea sorry. Looking at a Saz-1500D for $400 or a 2200d for $389? Obviously a difference in power but Sundowns are usually underrated with great CS and don't hear TOO much bout the AQ's besides ppl that have them but know nothing bout any other amps. Any opinions whatsoever....gracias! lol Thanks Chris Hasbrook