Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Current set up: PSI P2 15" Hifonics Zeus 3200.1d Wired:2 Ohm While listening to the music yesterday the bass suddenly cut off. Check the wires for amp everything looks secure. Check the subwoofer everything looks good. Amp turns on but sends no music. Is the amp blown?

well i toke my deck out the other day and when i put it back in iv got this nasty buzz like real nasty and it will change with engine rpm and there is also a bit of "engine wine" but the buzz is much louder and the really weired thing is if i change source or change channel or if i turn the volume from 0 to1 or from 1 to 0 i get a nasty thump kinda like a turn on thump but louder. I checked my amps grounds and they seam to be fine i was thinking maybe its my deck's grounds or maybe i broke a ground strap somewhere in the car im going to try changing them tomorrow my day off. And i also tried a different deck and it does the same thing but they are both pioneers and i hear…

Long story short, my system has been under construction for quite some time. I decided to throw some speakers in the doors via the factory speaker wires just to have something to listen to, but there was no sound. My first thought was a short somewhere in the wires, so I wired one speaker directly to the HU's harness (literally at the back of the HU, not through harness adapter) and it still produced absolutely nothing. I played around with the settings and couldn't find anything that could cause this. Am I missing something stupid, or is this HU fried?

so my friend traded some stuff and got a sealed 10" menphis sub and a jensin amp. before he traded it i had the guy install it in his car to mak sure everything worked, which it all did and sounded fine. so he traded and after running wires in my friends car and plugged everything in the power light turns on, but when tested with my DMM there is no output in the speaker terminals... here is a googled page i found on the amp... could the rca's be bad? im pretty sure they are wired right deck is an alpine CDE-102 need any other info just ask... im lost haha

so after finally getting everything tuned to where i wanted and set-up i was driving around for a little bit and then out of nowhere there is no bass... pulled over right then and checked the amp.. blue power light is on, no sign of protect mode at all. after work i got home and checked my fuses, all is fine. other speakers are normal, but when i checked speaker outputs from amp there is 0 volts. how do i fix this? hope its not that bad, was just starting to enjoy it all again! its a sundown SAZ-1500D, I've only had it a couple months, but i did get it from Db-r.com, but he does good work, no?

So if you put the power, ignition and ground from the head-unit on the battery directly and there is no power, is the head-unit faulty? Because i only get a tiny tiny spark on the positive post... other then that, no reaction. http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/ida-x305s/

Good Sunday everybody, its been awhile since I was last on here. Ive decided I wanted to get back into car audio, and I seen a deal on eBay hard to pass up. As Pioneer is loading out their "NEX" generation headunits it appears the older models are going for a good price. So I picked up a AVH-X5600BHS for my 2010 Dodge Challenger RT (with Boston Acoustic factory installed). I'm not very car audio inclined, so apologizes in advance if I sound off when describing my problem, or whats going on. Friday I got everything in mail from online purchases, all brand new. I got the PAC RP4-CH11 wiring w/ interface, a AVH-X5600BHS Pioneer Double Din, Aftermarket Harness + Antenna. …

I have a Sundown Audio SAE-1200 amp running 2 SA15s. I'm having a problem getting sound out of my subwoofers. At first I had a Pioneer 4100 DVD when this first started happening. The Subs would cut in and out, then finally stayed off but the amp stayed on. So i had my local shop check the voltage and they said no power was going through my rca's. So I had a different cd player and installed it. After I installed it everything was working fine again. Then today the subs started going in and out. Right before the subs went off, it sounded like the subs were crackling but still had sound going through them. So i turned down the radio and they stopped working after i tried tu…

I'll start by listing all the equipment used in the vehicle (2008 Dodge Caliber) and say that all of this has been installed and working fine for months until tonight. Starting up front, we have a 230amp DC alt, hooked to a factory replacement Duralast battery under the hood and the big 3 in 1/0. There's a fused power wire running from said under hood Duralast to Kinetik 1400 in the back near the amplifier, then on to the amplifier which is a Hifonics bxi1606D wired to 1 ohm. This amp is powering a pair of D4 Skar VVX12s. Now on to the problem, tonight we started the car and immediately noticed a sound/noise coming from inside the amplifier on the power/ground/speaker ter…

this is really wierd. umm after i hooked up my friends speakers. when it was at my house, there was no noise at all. but now my friend calls me when he gets home, and he hears this high pitch whistling noise comin from the speakers, but its only at low volumes. When he turns the volume high, the noise goes away and everything is fine. I'm guessing a ground problem, but there is no noise from the subs and why did it appear when my friend get home?

Hello, I have a bad noise only when I play with the engine running. I was trying to unhook the sub from the amp, but I start to unscrew it with the sound playing ! my bad Something went wrong, I think the tool touched something wrong and I suddenly heard a bad "electric" noise. Now, when my system play withe engine off : no problem! Engine on : I can hear a sort of alternator noise if I don't crank it up. I can hear the noise of the direction lights in the front speakers! If I take off the rca's': no noise. I checked the grounds: no problem. I tried other rca's : same noise. It seems that the problem is coming from the hu : what do you think about that? I did not try…

Alright got my system all ready to go and wired for tuning. First i set my gains using an oscilloscope on my sub mono amp. All went well. Then i set my gains on my 4 channel amp. All went well. I plugged in the speakers, and i am getting high pitch scratching noises that vary and change intermittently. When I turn off the subwoofer rca output from the headunit to the rear, the sub no longer gets any signal obviously.. but if i have rcas plugged into the 4 channel amp...... the sub then starts playing music! could this be my twisted pair rca cables? should i switch to coaxial?

When my car is running, and my HU is on pause, I get this high pitch sound through my speakers. its there when a CD is playing to, but high volumes cover it up. Anywanyz, im trying to figure out how to fix it. Someone suggested to me to check the grounds. SO I did, and found that my battery terminal (-) was loose. After secureing it, I thought it had been fixed, but the next time I went out to my car, it did the same thing. This only happens when my car is running, not when im on ACC. If it was still a ground problem, I would hear it when im on ACC too, wouldnt I? Also, my lights, and my HU backlight dim slightly and brighten, all in a very fast movement. I have upgraded …

Before I start going through the troubleshooting list since there is noise with the radio turned off I was thinking there might be a quicker answer. Here goes, my brother had his system installed a couple of years ago in his VW "something" I think jetta but it worked fine the whole time but a week ago all of a sudden there was noise with the radio turned on or off using the turn signal, winsheild wipers, rpm, pretty much anything electrical coming through the speakers with radio on or off like Lelu please help

So today i turned on my car while leaving class and decided to bump on the way home. Well i couldn't because my sub wasn't working. It was working before class. I got home and hooked up my other working sub which i decided to upgrade from (VIBE slick) and that did not work either. I know for a fact that the vibe isn't blown and my amp tells me when a sub is blown, wired wrong etc. The amp said everything was fine. So i hooked up my old amp (a kenwood) and that amp didn't work either with both subs. I can't stress enough that the VIBE is a good working subwoofer. I checked all of my fuses under the hood and none of them are blown. Neither are the fuses on both of the amps.…

Will a 225amp excessive amperage alternator be enough to run 3 Kinetik 2400s? my electrical is currently stock but i will be getting a new alt and those 3 batteries pretty soon. everything will be in 1/0awg big 3 will be in 2/0awg i am about to get a Memphis 4KW and i know its a power hog. i wont power it up until i get the voltage to back it up. and eventually when i save up some more money im gonna be runnin 4 Bl 15s in a blowthrough. any help or advice will be much appreciated.

Is it possible for me to run my back door speakers directly off the head unit if I'm already using the rear RCAs for my front stage? I know some people don't like the rear speaker thing, but I have people in my truck all the time, plus I like it that way.

i was wondering if maybe there is some kind of really easy way that works well for tuning an amp. the instruction booklet shows most settings for things like sub eq, subsonic, and frequency as set to halfway is this something that i should do with it right out of the box or should i try and tweak the knobs to some other directions. if anyone knows of a easy way to make the settings easy to set and sound fine it would help me a lot. thanks

Hey all.Im going to be getting a AudioQue 3500d.1 and I was wondering about the dual power/ground inputs on the amp.My main question is a major noob one.How do I hook the amp up with the dual inputs?Like do I need a distrobution block for both power and ground or do I just run both power/ground inputs to the power/ground inputs on my rear battery or what?My second question is about adding a 3rd battery.Ive been searching the forum and I think I have to just run + to + and then - to - on the rear batteries right?Do I need a fuse when connecting the + to the other + on the rear batteries?I have a 220amp power bastards alternator so im thinking between that and a 3rd battery…

heres my problem, i already have my amps in hand, in question is the mono subwoofer amp which is a hifinoics brutus BRZ2400.1D RMS Power @ 1 ohm 2400 watts x 1 channel i also already ordered my subs which are 3 fi q series 18's, someone brought up to me that with ohm rise i really will only see around 500 watts per sub, and to me thats a waste when thats only half there rated power..so i have 2 options to go from here, by another fi q and end up with 4 18's and buy another brz 2400 watt amp which would really put a strain on me budget wise, or stay with the 3 18's and use the brz 2400 watt amp on 2 of the fi q series and buy a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D for only $209 and …

Noticed one of my 40 amp fuses on my 1500d is fuzzy looking on the left inside part of it. I'm not trying to damage anything, so I'm wondering what's the proper way to remove a fuse without causing anything else to break? Thanks, Nick

Just bought a northstar nsb agm 34 Opinions? Any experience? What am I to expect of it? Electrical: runs of 0 gauge 220 amp alt Big 3 Duralast gold under hood Kinetik hc600 as 2nd battery Pushing roughly 2400 watts rms The kinetik is being replaced by the Northstar. I typically drop down to around 10.5v with car driving and sub playing. Just curious if this should solve my problem and if anyone has experience with these batteries.

okay so my 1997 jeep wrangler's stock alt produces 90amps. Im looking into buying two sundown sa-12's, feeding each 600watts at 1ohm. So my question is will my stock alt suffice?

Are there any amps being made presently that are not made in China or Korea, any just made in the good ole USA anymore??

The local Circuit City is going out of business, they have all their car audio stuff marked down 40%. They've got a few Kicker ZX750.1 amps, originally $500..... and you math wizards have already figured out that they are now only $300. Rated at 750rms at 2 ohms, are they stable into a lower load? Like 1.6 (5 Dual 4ohm coil subs in series/parallel? 1.33 (3 4ohm subs in parallel)? Do they put out more than their rated power?