Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I am wondering how to go about wiring 2 older fin style rf bd 1000.1 amps to a single 18" old 3 stack Fi btl. The sub needs a recone so I could get dual 2 or 1 ohm coils.both the amps have the spot for the sync cord.the real question I have is one amp to each coil @ 2 ohm? or get the dual 1 ohm coils and run both amps in parallel to both coils in parallel? I never used the bd sync cord, don't know if I should trust it? I don't want one workin harder than the other.as u guys know I'm looking for a 2 ohm load on these amps. Thanks a ton for any input!!!

So my amp keeps cutting off the power to my subs. It mainly occurs when I try to get my subs louder. It didn't do this as often a month ago. I think it was after a day of delivering pizza with it bumpin all day, amp got hot and my fuses blew, I believe ever since then it's been acting like a wimp. I'm wondering a few things I have stock electrical system, would the amp protect itself because its supply is inadequate? my subs run 300rms my amp runs 900rms, did I ruin my subs which is causing my amp to protect itself? (that would be awesome, been tryin to swap them out but gotta hurt em first) whatever it is, it keeps randomly protecting itself and when I turn my HU off…

I sold my old HU to a buddy the other day, so I went to wal mart for a quick fix and bought a 100$ JVC something-or-other to replace it. I wired the ground, the 12v, and the ignition, and nothing happens when I turn the key. I didn't wire any of the speakers, for I am just running RCA's to an external amp to power my mids and highs. I've checked all fuses, including the one in the HU itself, and re-wired everything just to be sure. After that didn't work, I took it back to wal-mart to replace it, and when I wired the new one up, still nothing, so I know it's not a problem with the HU itself.. Any ideas on what could be the problem?

I was thinking about getting one of these (http://www.audiocontrol.com/14152/products/EPIC--160-In--dash-Car-Audio-Bass-Processor-and-160-dB-SPL-Display.html). Anyone have experience with them? I have always just used my headunit and the PAC LC1 to turn up my bass and it sounds fine but some people say it really does help improve your system's bass . I also heard that you really shouldn't use this product if you listen to bass enhanced music such as decaf/dj slow n throw/etc.. and thats mainly what I listen too. Do you all think it will improve my system if I mainly listen to the music stated above? Or do you think It wouldn't sound any different? What do you guys thi…

As the title states, I need to get my hands on a decent but not overly expensive amp that can do 1000WRMS @ a 2 ohm load. I have a older Fosgate 1000.1BD which would work real good im sure since it makes its power right at 2 ohms but its a little screwy and im not going to waste my patience on that pos lol. The Audiopipe 15001D caught my eye even thought it makes its power @ 1 ohm its not far off with 950w @ 2 ohms. Anything else out there I should look into? more is always better but the vehicle has a stock electrical system so running this D1 Sub at 0.5 isnt an option at this point lol

A buddy of mine just got a new 2010 Silverado. He took the old head-unit out of his other truck to put in this truck. The HU is a pioneer in-dash double din, not sure which model but it's fairly new. His harness for the old truck (an older silverado 00-05) is not the same for this new truck. We've looked everywhere for a compatible harness but cannot find one. The stereo also doesn't fit where stock double din was, so I guess we will need a dash kit too. Any help would be VERY appreciated. These new vehicles piss me off.. Here is the stock stereo

Was drivin around testin out new speakers and was turning up the volume, and when it hit 29/35 everything just shut off. So i figured I blew a fuse. I checked the fuse box numerous times and the fuses are all fine. Took out the HU cuz a buddy said there was a fuse behind it... nothing... I have no clue where to go from this point.

I have a XS Power as a starting battery, 2 runs of 0gauge to my rear batt which is a Deka. I'm wanting to add another deka in the rear and wanted to know if I need to do 2 runs of wire to connect the rear batts together or will 1 run suffice. Thanks

http://www.soundstream.com/amplifiers-reference.html

Currently my setup is as follows: Acura RSX HU: Alpine IVA-W200 Front: Focal Utopia 6.5" and tweets Rear: Focal Polyglass 6.5" Highs Amp: JL 450/4 Subs: 2 Fi Q12" Sub Amp: RF T20001BD I've never tried hooking up 3 sets of components in a vehicle before as I normally have enough with two sets. I was thinking of putting some kick panels in and using the Focal K2 5.25" components I have sitting in my closet. Is there any way I could hook this up without another amp? If not possible, think I would be ok just removing my rear fill and using that channel on the amp for the K2's? Or would that be like too much just coming from the front and only bass in the back...I don't kn…

Does it matter to have multiple runs from alt to batt in the big 3 since its a short run when having multiple runs from front to back?

my amp has been magnetized sitting in my closet for a few days. screws and tools will get pulled to it...is this a bad thing?

I have a factory system in my new Explorer and do not want to go through installing my cd player right now. I want to keep it all stock except unhook the 8"sub in the back, run the signal to my amp and have my two 15s back there. How would I do this?? Could I simply hook a LOC to the wires that went to the 8"?? Or would the power that is run through that be too much for an LOC, or does it even matter? Quick Quick with the help if you can please, going to try and get this done by tomorrow. Thanks much.

Ok here we i just bought the mach5 6.5 i bought a saz 3000 and a 18btl with an enclosure design by hexibase. Now my question is what would be a good amp to push the 6.5 i know the saz 100.4 but my budget is getting low so any other sugestion thanks.

ok i really hate to ask this, but how are you able to tell when your amp starts to "clip"? And what exactly does it mean?

What should I set my amp to get the best quality I have Hifonics Brutus BXi1208D I also have 2 RE SE12 Dual4

I'm curious as to what I could upgrade to with my current electrical system. I currently have zero issues with voltage at full tilt with all lights and a/c on blast, steady 14.0 with my AB PH-4000 and Lanzar Vibe 231 (ick, yes eww) I have two group 65's and a group 29 ran with zero, big three with 200a alt. Batts are under backseat, so pretty short runs in my mountaineer. I used less than 30ft of wire (direct runs both positive and negative). How can I estimate this myself for future reference?

i thought i ordered 3 fi q series in the dual 2 ohm series, but some how i got the 1ohm instead..not sure if i made that mistake or if FI sent me the wrong ohm load..and im not here to lay blame..it is what it is not a big deal or something for me to cry about..my problem is this..i was going to wire them to my Hifonics Brutus BRZ2400.1D 4 ohms: 850 watts x 1 chan. 2 ohms: 1700 watts x 1 chan. 1 ohm: 2400 watts x 1 cha the guy doing my instal said with these subs im looking at a little under a .5 ohm load, but when i check with the 12volt web page it says 0.67 so not far off i guess, my question is, can i try running this amp at.5 ohm? anyone have any experience with thi…

My Alpine PXE-H650 processor will not do a hard reset. According to alpine, I need to hold down the reset button for 10 seconds and it will do a factory reset. This does not happen with mine. I spoke with technical support twice today with no avail. Does anybody know where I can get a copy of the firmware for it? I really do not want to send my processor to them. Thanks!

I got a saz-2000d pushing a dd9515g at 1ohm. I was wondering if a kinetik 1400 upfront and a kinetik 2000 in the rear would be enough to help run the system. Big 3 has been done with 1/0, I have 1 run 1/0 front to back, grounds done with 1/0 and a stock alt 90amps. Any recommendations will be taken in consideration.

First question, Im thinking about making my own D-Block out of some bolts and nuts and what not, I have a run of 4 gauge from the battery, is it necessary to step down from 4 gauge to 8 gauge leaving the D-Block? The runs after the block are a foot at the most. Second question, what fusing should I use at the D-Block? I know 150 amp is recommended for 4 gauge but idk if theres a difference if its being distributed.

I have an amp with the following specs: 2 x 75 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms 2 x 150 Watts Max at 4 Ohms 1 x 300 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged 2 x 125 Watts at 2 Ohms Electronic Crossover Network Bass Boost Circuit 2 Ohm Stereo Stable Tri-Mode Capable Gold RCA Inputs Power & Protection LED Indicators Advanced Protection Circuitry Soft Turn On/Off VU Meter Thermometer Frequency Response: 15 Hz-35 kHz S/N Ratio: 90 dB I know its not the best of specs in the world, but it is all I have right now so I want to make this work. I got a TC-1000 12" DVC 4ohm, so if I bridge the amp that is a 2ohm load on the amp. My amp says its only 2ohm Stereo stable, so I was thinking…

Is 1000 watts on 1 ohm too much for 2 yellowtops, big 3, and an 80 amp alternator?

i want to get a two channel amp to power my alpine sps-600's so they will be louder. i would like to not go higher than 150$ i found this would it be good for what i want http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-+ZX+Series+200W+Class+AB+Bridgeable+2-Channel+MOSFET+Amplifier/9925029.p?id=1218195774026&skuId=9925029#BVRRWidgetID

I have a couple of good quality amps that I would like to get repaired. Does anyone here know of a reputable place that I can send them off and get them repaired? Thanks for the help all.