Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Now, I definitely know the PowerMaster is a better battery, but the price of the Dekas are telling me to go w/ them. I could get two new Dekas for the cost of one new PowerMaster. Common sense is telling me to go w/ the Dekas but which do you guys suggest to do?

Am using a US Amp MD.3D amp. I got a HO alternator from Nations that push out around 140 Amps at idle and 230 Amps max output. I also have a 2 Farad cap and a battery that is 1000 cranking amps (CA)and 850 CCA. Will this be enough to run this amp without it going into PROTECT mode or shutting off due to the lack of "juice"? What is the "BIG 3"?

I purchased about 15ft of Kicker Hyperflex 0 gauge to do the BIG 3 and the wire was MUCH bigger than expected. I had never dealt with 0 gague wire up until this point. I attempted the install with the wire but had difficulty due to its large size a tightness of my engine bay in addition to the awkward location of my alternator ('08 Altima 3.5SE). So I was just curious to know if using 4 gauge or 2 gauge wire would be sufficient since it will still be at least twice the size of stock? It will be 100% OFC, none of that aluminum clad stuff. Background info on my system is a Sundown SAE-1000D powering a 12" Havoc and a 4-channel Kenwood eXcelon powering my Ininity Kappa c…

ok well i have a build come up on monday and i was wondering where to run the 1/0 i mena i have only ran 4awg and that was in the kick panel so i dont know where to run that big ass wire

Can using a bass knob cause damage? If so, to what extent. Should I go ahead & set my gains to what my bass knob would normally be? And finally, what exactly does the bass knob effect? Does it stay within the preset gains? I like being able to turn it down with just that little knob, or turn it up when I want to blare it. I was thinking of setting it all the way up, then the gain to where it gets the right AC Voltage, would it be fine?

Well I decided to pull all my "big boys" outta the closet... time for some pics and testing... I'm really doing this to find out which amp will be the most efficient for my next install. The competitors Sundown SAZ3000D, Massive Audio P3000D, Swiss Audio SDX2000A, Clif Designs CD4800LX(amp is sold,pics only) , Visonik 4000

what are your thoughts on these amp?

Which one of these caps is the better buy or the better name-brand? Is it the LQ30CAP Lanzar 3.0-Farad cap or is it the ALMANI ALF2F 2-Farad Digital Power CAPACITOR. They are both around the same price?

sorta noob question but ive never had this particular predicament before Would it be ok to run 4 awg from the ground on the batt to my amp and run 1/0 from the+ batt to a distro to my amp. i know the ground and power have to be the same awg when putting them into a amp. my car has a very poor ground in the trunk and this option will save me some money an time until i can get more 1/0 to run from the front to the back. my amp has 4 awg inputs so would i be ok doing this since i would be using both 4awg for ground and power. i do plan on upgrading the the gound to 1/0 since im goin to add a few batts but this is only temp for maybe a month.

Just wanted to hear everyones experience with the two companies. They both offer pretty much the same alternator for my car at the same price. I'm just trying to decide which to go with

any on here have any experiance with a phase linear uv8? i have someone local that wants to sell one for 150 and i figure that is a pretty good deal unless they are junk any one had one or heard anything with one

I have not been able to find an unfused distribution block for 1/0 gauge wire..... it needs to connect like 4 0 gauge wires.

I am looking for a fuse holder that will hold 2 ANL fuses that has one 1/0 in and one 1/0 out. Do they exist? or am I stuck? I am using the Stinger 3/0 oval wire to the battery bank in the back, I just dont think a single 300 amp will be enough. Thanks

my fuse is one where i have to strip wire, but a ring terminal on both ends, then put the terminal over the posts that i tighten the nut on that holds the fuse in place. i first used the terminals that came with the kit, i just smashed the wire into the terminal on the ground with a hammer (ik im a noob but it worked for the battery end). it slipped out when i was running my wire, so i started over with both ends, and used a vice this time to hold the wire into the terminal. they slipped out AGAIN, ( ) so then i said F it and just smashed the raw wire between the fuse and nut, lol. what should i do!? the fuse is just gonna be sitting under my back seat in my explorer if …

Whats this CD player compaired to a dual or Jenson flip up? Is this CD player good enough to some mids and highs? Lemme get some feedback..

I finally got my DC Power Inc 250amp alternator and switchable MLA module installed. I now have 250amps (140 at idle) available at 15.6 volts sweeeeeeet. I just have to clean up the wires and I'll start a build log with pics. Now I need to run power wires to the trunk and start building the enclosure and kicks.

maybe this is a really stupid question, but i have always wondered what would be better for a component set, a 2 channel or a 4 channel, and why?

My SAZ-3000 arrived today and I have two powermaster batteries on the way (D5100R, D3100.) I'm looking for ways to run 2 connections of 1/0 in addition to the factory cable to my D5100R and two 1/0 per terminal for the D3100. I'm trying not to buy 4 expensive Stinger type battery terminals. Can someone please show me some options of how to do this in a way that functions and looks nice but won't cost $80 to $100. Pictures of your setup would be nice. Thanks

i need 2 batterys that will replace 4 hc2000's any help plz

well i bought an alternator a week ago and it just arrive today. now i have a question how can i really check for the output the guy i bough it for said it was a 300 amp alt from excessive amp but i want to make sure it sure is (not that i want to say the guy is a scammer) but for my personal intentions of using it. any help would do great, i know i shouldnt take it to autozone or any place like that results wont come right

hey guys, i have a jbl amp and on it there is a 2 screws, one of them is bass boost and it goes from 0-12 db, the other is a xover frequency and it goes from 32hz to some high number i cant remember right now, what should those be at? its on a 15" 9500

I'm currently installing a rather large system in my car, and using an alpine ida-x001 as the main unit. Only problem is the unit does not have a CD player, and I really don't wanna deal with a seperate CD changer to hook up to it. i have another alpine deck with tilt, the CDA- 9851. Not sure if i would need some sort of switch-board for all the RCA-s or not. I would like to be able to use either deck and still have full usability of every part of the system. So having both decks would def. be ideal.

Anyone know of any good ones? Not like a hand held, like one I can look at while I'm driving or sitting in my seat or something. Like this stinger one, but I just want to see what others there are, and your opinions on some you own... http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SVMB-VOLTMETER...8QQcmdZViewItem or http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m303/cH...cs/P1020013.jpg (bottom of the pic)

What do you guys think of this amp? I saw a topic over at SMD and it didn't seem bad at all. I can get it for a REALLY cheap price, like, if it puts out even 3000 watts rms, then it is still worth it. It doesn't look too bad imo. And, compared to the Crunch GP3000D-pro, what do you all think?

i have a couple of batts layin around my house, and i cant tell if they are good or not. THe one reads 9.4 volts, so i hooked it up to the charger, and 5 hours later it stil isnt charged. the other one read something like 4 volts and after 5 min. on the charger it says it is almost full. Are the batts no good, or not. (car bats)