Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Again am using a US amp MD.3D. I have a HO alternator from Nations and a kenetik HC 2000. Would this be enough to supply this amp with the needed power. Am wanting to run 2 15" subs, 1000 watts a piece. Thanks in advance for the response.

MB Quart DSC 1500.1 Was thinking about picking one up but there made by Maxxsonics so i am up in the air about it. If any one has any exp. with it or know sum one who has one, let me know what kind of real power it pushes?

Im lookin for a good 3000w rms amp. I found a Alphasonik PMA1000HCA and I dont know much about them. But the Crunch Iv read some Good things about it. Who makes Alphasonik is it a division of Audiobahn??...I think I read that some where. Any way Thanks for any help Im open for any suggestions in the 500$$ range Thanks

Just wanted to hear everyones experience with the two companies. They both offer pretty much the same alternator for my car at the same price. I'm just trying to decide which to go with

Am using a US Amp MD.3D amp. I got a HO alternator from Nations that push out around 140 Amps at idle and 230 Amps max output. I also have a 2 Farad cap and a battery that is 1000 cranking amps (CA)and 850 CCA. Will this be enough to run this amp without it going into PROTECT mode or shutting off due to the lack of "juice"? What is the "BIG 3"?

ok well i have a build come up on monday and i was wondering where to run the 1/0 i mena i have only ran 4awg and that was in the kick panel so i dont know where to run that big ass wire

Can using a bass knob cause damage? If so, to what extent. Should I go ahead & set my gains to what my bass knob would normally be? And finally, what exactly does the bass knob effect? Does it stay within the preset gains? I like being able to turn it down with just that little knob, or turn it up when I want to blare it. I was thinking of setting it all the way up, then the gain to where it gets the right AC Voltage, would it be fine?

Which one of these caps is the better buy or the better name-brand? Is it the LQ30CAP Lanzar 3.0-Farad cap or is it the ALMANI ALF2F 2-Farad Digital Power CAPACITOR. They are both around the same price?

sorta noob question but ive never had this particular predicament before Would it be ok to run 4 awg from the ground on the batt to my amp and run 1/0 from the+ batt to a distro to my amp. i know the ground and power have to be the same awg when putting them into a amp. my car has a very poor ground in the trunk and this option will save me some money an time until i can get more 1/0 to run from the front to the back. my amp has 4 awg inputs so would i be ok doing this since i would be using both 4awg for ground and power. i do plan on upgrading the the gound to 1/0 since im goin to add a few batts but this is only temp for maybe a month.

what are your thoughts on these amp?

maybe this is a really stupid question, but i have always wondered what would be better for a component set, a 2 channel or a 4 channel, and why?

any on here have any experiance with a phase linear uv8? i have someone local that wants to sell one for 150 and i figure that is a pretty good deal unless they are junk any one had one or heard anything with one

I had 2 15" Alpine type r's but now, come to my discovery, i had 16 guage wire running from the amp to the subs... What size should i get for a 15" FI BTL? running a little under 2000 watts? 12? 10 to be safe? ohhhh... the amp says "speaker terminals (molded) 12 ga." i measured, and i could easily fit up to 5 ga.

my fuse is one where i have to strip wire, but a ring terminal on both ends, then put the terminal over the posts that i tighten the nut on that holds the fuse in place. i first used the terminals that came with the kit, i just smashed the wire into the terminal on the ground with a hammer (ik im a noob but it worked for the battery end). it slipped out when i was running my wire, so i started over with both ends, and used a vice this time to hold the wire into the terminal. they slipped out AGAIN, ( ) so then i said F it and just smashed the raw wire between the fuse and nut, lol. what should i do!? the fuse is just gonna be sitting under my back seat in my explorer if …

I am looking for a fuse holder that will hold 2 ANL fuses that has one 1/0 in and one 1/0 out. Do they exist? or am I stuck? I am using the Stinger 3/0 oval wire to the battery bank in the back, I just dont think a single 300 amp will be enough. Thanks

Whats this CD player compaired to a dual or Jenson flip up? Is this CD player good enough to some mids and highs? Lemme get some feedback..

hey guys, ive been lookin into a rd designs 5250 just wondering if they were a strong amp.. thanks!

I finally got my DC Power Inc 250amp alternator and switchable MLA module installed. I now have 250amps (140 at idle) available at 15.6 volts sweeeeeeet. I just have to clean up the wires and I'll start a build log with pics. Now I need to run power wires to the trunk and start building the enclosure and kicks.

My SAZ-3000 arrived today and I have two powermaster batteries on the way (D5100R, D3100.) I'm looking for ways to run 2 connections of 1/0 in addition to the factory cable to my D5100R and two 1/0 per terminal for the D3100. I'm trying not to buy 4 expensive Stinger type battery terminals. Can someone please show me some options of how to do this in a way that functions and looks nice but won't cost $80 to $100. Pictures of your setup would be nice. Thanks

I'm currently installing a rather large system in my car, and using an alpine ida-x001 as the main unit. Only problem is the unit does not have a CD player, and I really don't wanna deal with a seperate CD changer to hook up to it. i have another alpine deck with tilt, the CDA- 9851. Not sure if i would need some sort of switch-board for all the RCA-s or not. I would like to be able to use either deck and still have full usability of every part of the system. So having both decks would def. be ideal.

well i bought an alternator a week ago and it just arrive today. now i have a question how can i really check for the output the guy i bough it for said it was a 300 amp alt from excessive amp but i want to make sure it sure is (not that i want to say the guy is a scammer) but for my personal intentions of using it. any help would do great, i know i shouldnt take it to autozone or any place like that results wont come right

i need 2 batterys that will replace 4 hc2000's any help plz

Hi, I drive a 2005 e91 BMW 320 Diesel Touring. Stock Allternator with 120 Amps (Diesel) and 1 Kinetik HC 1400 and AWG 4 Power Cables(idk for sure, in germany its measured in square mm, i have 51 mm2) for OEM Batt to Kinetik Batt and from Kinetik to Amp. I want to know if i should do some upgrade to run a Rockford T20001bd perfectly. I'm gonna get a FI BTL 15 soon and don't want to smoke it up because of clipping... I already searched for a HO Alt but wasn't able do find s.th. for my ride. And sorry for the perhabs stupid question, but what the heck is or are the big 3?? Any Input??!?! I would appreciate!

hey guys, i have a jbl amp and on it there is a 2 screws, one of them is bass boost and it goes from 0-12 db, the other is a xover frequency and it goes from 32hz to some high number i cant remember right now, what should those be at? its on a 15" 9500

Anyone know of any good ones? Not like a hand held, like one I can look at while I'm driving or sitting in my seat or something. Like this stinger one, but I just want to see what others there are, and your opinions on some you own... http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SVMB-VOLTMETER...8QQcmdZViewItem or http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m303/cH...cs/P1020013.jpg (bottom of the pic)