Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Discuss Head Units, Amplification, Processors, And All Electrical System Inquiries Here.
5,712 topics in this forum
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Alright, I'm in a 99 xplorer and hookin up in that group buy for 2 12" Rl-p D2 and I'm goin with a LSQ system with a ported box, any thoughts on what amp/s i should go with to make this system nice. I'm not lookin to spend a chit load of money kinsiderin I gotta raise the finances to pay my truck off while I'm buyin this system. Truck cost: 6000 Sub cost: 450 Amp cost: hopefully not more then 300
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Steering wheel controls that is. The Pac intfrared stuff or soundgate?
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has anyone had a remote that went on and off, i checked the voltage from the wire that comes directly out of the deck and it goes on and off intermittently. the deck is very old and seen a lot of abuse, my question is can i splice my remote wire with another to achieve the same effect or am i stuck buying a new headunit, i guess i could run a wire from some 12v source and throw a switch in between but that's a hassle.
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We've created a blog to clarify a lot of questions in this market and here is just one of the many we're going to have. Enjoy: http://blog.dcpowerinc.com/2010/09/05/the-benefits-of-high-voltage/
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i have a popping sound though my sub when i turn off my radio or when i change a track, turn it on mute it will do it when i step on the gas , i first had 2 w6( old school 12s) and a directed 600d amp it never did it when i had that set up, but when i put this one in it started doing it after i played it cupble of times, so what could be the reason.
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I am in need of help. I have the sundown 3k and it has been working without any problems for a while now. I went to bump today and there was nothing so when I opened up the back it was in protect with the slight blue of the power light being on. I didnt do anything out of the ordinary and when I shut it off last it was working perfect. I took the backing off and there doesnt look like anything wrong but yet again I dont know nothing so it could be blown for all I know. What I have done as far as trouble shooting: removed RCA wires and turned on still went into protect Removed speaker wires but still goes into protect removed power wire and of course nothing happens Let me…
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Made a video to show everyone whats its doing. The amp has been hooked up and running fine for a couple weeks now. Out of no where the amp starts cutting in and out today. When it does, it goes into protect mode. I checked every wire from the battery back and all are good. I even pulled the headunit and checked all connections there too. So here is what happens: Amp cutting in and out while I was running errands today. So I turned the radio off until I go home. When I got home I pulled out all my tools and DMM and checked everything. All is well. But now, the amp is on, not in protect mode, and I get zero output to the subs. Yes, I checked the subs wiring too. I noticed w…
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Pulled the power from my previous car to re-use in my new car. Noticed a little bit of discoloration from where it was ran through the fender. Does this look ok to use? Untitled by riored4v, on Flickr
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So before i scurry up the money to buy a sax125.2, i would like to still be able to play my boustin acoustic pro60se 6.5's. digging through the garage i found one of those old school alpine 3522s. i've been looking through the internet and need some clarification. Its 30 watts at 4 ohms. 2channel. the pro60se are 125 watts a side at 3 ohms. so my question is, would the boustin acoustics sound better off of the 3522s than the stock speakers off of my head unit? another, more serious question. i Read on another forum that since this amp is so old school, it won't match up with my head unit. they said the amp is 1v inputs (true??) and my head unit has 4v outputs. to me, it…
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Does the epicenter help increase you spl or does it just act like a bass boost where it will just cause the amp to clip. Would it be a good idea to buy one if I mainly use an ipod?
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I drive a small car with a 70amp alt and a regular battery up front and with a kicker zx750 and a old sony 50x4 my lights dimmed. I currently am running like 100x2 for my subs so its not dimming but I am looking at 1200-1500rms for bl 15 most likely. I am wondering if putting a kinetik in the trunk is enough or if my alt won't even be able to keep up.
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I sold my old HU to a buddy the other day, so I went to wal mart for a quick fix and bought a 100$ JVC something-or-other to replace it. I wired the ground, the 12v, and the ignition, and nothing happens when I turn the key. I didn't wire any of the speakers, for I am just running RCA's to an external amp to power my mids and highs. I've checked all fuses, including the one in the HU itself, and re-wired everything just to be sure. After that didn't work, I took it back to wal-mart to replace it, and when I wired the new one up, still nothing, so I know it's not a problem with the HU itself.. Any ideas on what could be the problem?
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is this any good http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/4826797/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046 it comes with a packagae i want and was wondering if it would be better to buy a different one? Thanks guys
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i just ordered a rl-i10 and was wondering what a good amp would be for it. maybe one i can use if i decide to get another 10 later on. its a dual 4ohm
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I have a Autotek MM1400.1D and Autotek MM75.4 in my truck. I leave my truck parked for a few days at a time at school. The 1400 goes into protect mode when I turn my truck on after its been sitting for a few days (I leave the radio on all the time), but when I turn my radio off then on again everything is okay. I can turn the truck off and on after the amplifier is off of protect, and it turns on like normal. What could be the cause of this?
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Still doing a little research, saw some you tube videos on this amplifier and is wondering does anyone own 1, and if so how good is it?
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http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=265-081 Could that amplifier reliably produce at least 30w rms per channel run as a sub amp? rated for a 4ohm minimum, but with plenty of reserve i'll be running it at 2ohms.
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Hey everyone, I need a distribution block that will input 1/0 gauge wire and output two 4 gauge wires and two 8 gauge wires. Or alternatively a distribution block that will input a 1/0 gauge wire and output three 4 gauge wires then another block that will input a 4 gauge wire and output two 8 gauge wires. But what I'm thinking, is just for a little more money I can get a second battery, hook the 1/0 gauge up to the positive post, then hook all the other wires up to the positive post without a need for the distribution blocks. I'd be spending just a little more money (the smallest powermaster battery on ebay is about $90..not sure if that'd even be beneficial) but I'd b…
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so im looking for a 1000 watt at 1ohm am looking to buy one tonight i cant post in the forsale wanted section due to being a new guy but i thought i give it a shot here due to me looking for one NOW lol thanks for looking lmk if you got something for me
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It seems like Alpine is the brand of choice for head units. I has some major issues with an Alpine head unit in the past. The unit would work a few weeks then would start acting up where the display would be blank but the unit would power on or if the display was visible it look to be a cross between russian and korean text. Alpine replaced the unit under warranty 4 times. When the unit failed the 5th time it was finally out of warranty and got replaced. So my views on Alpine are tainted and I swore I would never own another of their products. So I bought a new 08 Mazda Mx-5 Miata a little less than a month ago and the stock system has got to go. Since space is a majo…
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I have and Audiopipe APSM-1300 that went into protect mode while riding down the road. I had it wired to a 1ohm which is 1000 watts. The amp is grounded beneath the drivers seat at a spot were I sanded the paint away and secured the ring terminal with three screws to the floor. I have an 8 gauge kit with an 80 amp fuse. My question is it possible the amp was struggling too hard with the small wire to generate the power or the amp hit the drivers seat frame and maybe shorted out. The amp is damaged now and Audiopipe wants $20 to fix it and whatever it cost to ship it. I only paid $100 for the amp and I think I will go with something else instead of fixing it. Any thou…
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Here's what I have to work with: ^thats the lame part. amps are 9.45" tall, while the cushion template is only ~7.5" What I'm thinking about doing. Please excuse my paint work The front is gonna have plexi to show the middle of the amp, but not the outer edges/wiring inputs. Gonna put a blue cathode above each amp inside the amp enclosure, out of sight. Might cover with vinyl, but I'm not sure cuz I suck at wrapping corners. Any other suggestion that'll look nice are welcomed Seem like a good idea? Any suggestions? Also, I need strong, thin wood so the rack wont protrude so much. What kind would u suggest?
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Would a 3 or 5 channel amp be effective for a front stage and a sub stage. or would it be best to have 2 seperate amps i saw i believe it was a arc audio 3 channel amp the other day with the perfect power amount for my current plan of comps up front and a single ssa dcon 12 in the rear. On a side note i had seen the fi ssd 12s and they look nice but there is quite a price difference and if im not mistaken they require quite a bit more power than the dcon am i mistaken ? I am pretty sure the dcon is my number one choice im just wondering how it measures up against the ssd what are the major differences?
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