Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Talked a buddy of mine into getting two 10" Fi X's for his truck. Looking for a nice amp that will do rated or more and won't break the bank. He'll be getting the BP power option also. Thanks!

US AMPS MERLIN MD1D AMPLIFIER 1200 WATTS RMS AMP - eBay (item 200477055940 end time Jun-26-10 12:02:09 PDT) I have two RE REX subs and want to run them temp on it and i think this is a pretty good deal. If i do push the RE's with this amp i will have to set the gain order not to pop them only reason i ant is because I might keep it for future upgrades Tell me what you think.

what should my electrical look like to support these and the saz-100.4 ... i am debating on whether i want to buy 2 of these or just get the saz-4500d ... right now i have a 260 amp alt by iraggi and the stock was 130 amp ... i was thinking about buying some of the c and d 100 lb batteries (supposed to be comparable to the hc3800) ... how many would i have to buy to support this amount of power ... i understand i would need a bigger alternator but this is the biggest they make for my car and a dual alt setup is near impossible

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...mMakeTrack=true second time it's been listed for $200. First time they tried to sell it, it had a $5000 Buy It Now It obviously didnt sell the first time. So I emailed the seller asking for a lower price. They promptly told me to get lost and if I was really interested I would have bid. So is it worth $200 (plus $15 s&h)? Whose that guy on here that has a few? How do you like them?

O.k. I will be hooking up my amp (soundstream 2000w monoblock) to my factory h/u via a PAC audio plug-n-play (c2a-chy) harness. The rca voltage isn't fixed and will be adjusted as the radio vol. is increased up to 5 volts. My question is, in order to set the gains on my amp, do I just set by ear with a test tone or get a line driver and have that fixed voltage to set my gain with a dmm. My amp has a range of 300mV-5V max. Thanks guys !

ok so my alternator went out which in turn screwed up my battery. i got a good used alternator for $20 and its actually better then my last 2 and i dont want to kill it before i can afford batts. but my question is can anyone recommend places i might try for a cheap used battery? i just need something to get me by for a few weeks till i can get a big battery. i've been to pull a part 3 times this week and they havent had any. any help would be awesome thanx

alright, i currently have the Pioneer AVH-4300DVD and i really like it and was thinking about getting the AVH-P4400BH for my H2, but have also been looking into the Kenwood DDX-719 and was wondering if anybody has had the opportunity to play with both and what your opinions were about the Kenwood? i haven't gotten to play with the Kenwood at all, but it looks good on paper.

Checked under the hood today and saw this... So pissed. Looks like I won't have my truck for a day or two. Getting it towed to the dealership tomorrow. Hopefully they don't try to screw me, as they installed it in the first place...Wondering what's preventing it from happening again too... :suicide-santa: :suicide-santa:

Hey guys I would be wiring up my 4 channel amp, and have a few questions. (1) I have read that the power wire should go one side of the car and speaker wire (rca) should go on the other side. Should the remote wire go on the side of the power wire or on the side with the speaker wire? (2) I am using 2 ch bridged for my sub, and the other 2 ch ( built in crossover on amp), for a pair of mids and tweeter. what frequency should I set it to? (3) The HU has 3 pairs of 4 volt rca pre output, should I use these or the the wires from the hu haness to feed the amp or a combination of both? , I have rear speakers which can also be included, what would be the best setup? Thanks.

when you set your gain with a dmm it says take the amps rms and multiply it by the impedance of the sub. so say you have a 2 ohm dvc sub and you wire it down to a 1 ohm load. do you take 1 ohm or 2 ohms and multiply it by your amps rms then sqrt it?

What size alternator would I need to run 2 US Amps AX-3200DE, and 2 AX-TU600C Amps? Should I run Dual Alternators?

So I just got my 2nd batt and I was thinkin on how to wire it but I'm not sure if I'm right [frnt batt]+----fuse----------------+[rear batt] |----fuse--------------amp correct me if I'm wrong I'm sure I am

im looking for mono, 1, 2, chanel amp that @ 4ohm is rated at 600x1 or 300x2 but i need TRU RMS @1,0.5,0.25 ohm to be 1200+ kinda like the saz1500d thanks God bless Samuel

i have a brz1700.1 powering a 15" Fi BL fully loaded, and ill be adding a 4ch. soon for my 6 1/2 and 6x9's..my stock alt is 105amps and i have a stock battery.. will i need to get a new alt and battery???.. or do yall think ill be just fine with what i have already??? the system isnt installed yet still waiting on a few things to in...?

i have a popping sound though my sub when i turn off my radio or when i change a track, turn it on mute it will do it when i step on the gas , i first had 2 w6( old school 12s) and a directed 600d amp it never did it when i had that set up, but when i put this one in it started doing it after i played it cupble of times, so what could be the reason.

So I've been looking at a bunch of nav head units, and these two seem like the best out there. I haven't had a chance to use either as I can't find any local shops that have either in stock. What is the general consensus on these two? Is there a clear cut winner? I've heard that the pioneer's have a high failure rate, and they often times freeze up, is that true? They have a gorgeous UI, but if it doesn't work I guess it's not that great. My other concerns with the pioneer are the low RMS power output, no name GPS, and only a single USB input. Would I need an amp with the pioneer or is 14 watts RMS enough for components and mid basses (no subs yet)? Is the GPS comparable …

Today is not a good day. i got my remote gain yesterday i installed it today.. also The plan was to finally have my subs back. i got my DC's back from rusty. and was happy to slap once again... i opened the box and one was broken:( i called rusty and he is so nice... but that's another story. i was hooking up one of the dcs to see if it works and i heard a hum it then everything turn off.. not the car but my amps and the music.... so i check the fuse in the front and its blown. i replace it and then my rf250.2 turns on. but not the merlin?? i took out the merlin and seen the fuses are blown.. so i replace them.... and then when i hooked it up again.. i heard the hum again…

well i got my SAZ 1500d in the mail a few days ago... and now i have my 1/0 gauge Tsunami amp kit to replace the 4 gauge from my old sub amp... so now i am getting ready to install it all, i was just wondering if anyone had any good sugestions on where to set the subsonic and the LPF knobs ? and i a guessing to leave the phase off.. this amp is to run my 15" Xcon.. it is in a 4 cubic feet box ported to 32 hz.... i figured there would be someone here who could get me close..

So right now I am planning out my system. It is going to be about 2600 watts total, using either RF, Kicker, or Sundown amps. I have a 160 amp alt now as well as the stock 730 ampere battery. Of course I will be doing the big 3 upgrade. I am almost certain I may need another little battery just in case, a smaller Kinetik or so. What are the chances of me needing a bigger alt?

I was fooling around with my amp today, turning up the gain gradually, and I was getting excited, sub was pounding a lot harder, and it didnt sound like it was getting any muddier or sound like it was clipping. But then i noticed that once i disconnected the sub and played a tone, the amplifier itself was making a buzzing noise. So i turned back the gain and it went away. I was wondering if this was some kind of built in clipping detector or something along those lines? Have you guys ever encountered something like this? Any info would be great, thanks guys.

I have a Arc Audio SE-2150se, and I have it in mono mode, running at 2 ohms to my fully loaded, D1 18'' fi btl. Everything works fine, but I wanted to turn it up this past weekend to show of to my friends, so when I turn up the amp, from 1/4, to 3/4, it sounded much louder. But when I turn it up, the protect mode light will flicker red, just for when the bass drop, now I know this can't be good. It goes back green, but when ever the bass drops, a big one, it will just flicker red for that one second. Can any body tell me why this is, and is it safe to play it that loud? Not daily, I'm not stupid, but whenever I want to show off for a song or two, can I or should I play it…

i just ordered a rl-i10 and was wondering what a good amp would be for it. maybe one i can use if i decide to get another 10 later on. its a dual 4ohm

Does anybody have any experience with the above HU, just want to know if it is any good in general. Mainly going to be using my ipod.

I'm getting 2 12" kicker L7s wired to 1 ohm. I have an amp just sitting around and its a planet audio ac2500.1m. I'm thinking I will run the subs at 4 ohm. Any suggestions? I really don't have money to get a 1 ohm amp at this time. thanks guys

I'm going to hook up the rubicon 702 to an FI SSD12 with copper coils in a sealed enclosure 1.6 cubic feet. This amp has 700RMS watts. Now what should I set the low pass crossover frequency to? Should I set the subsonic filter? If so to what frequency and should I also set the boost?