Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Anyone have any experience with grounding a second battery or amplifiers in the back of a 2005+ mustang? I know that I could always run the ground from the front battery to the back, but looking to see if there is a good ground to use in the back.

When I get my system together, I'd like to have some valuable time with an RTA to get the EQ (PXA-H701) setup right. Has anyone tried using this? Phonic PAA3 Handheld RTA Its not for setting up a competition vehicle or anything, but I'd like to know if it is good enough for me to get my eq flat with pink noise and I'll adjust by ear from there. Your thoughts?

I found out that http://www.Darvex.com offers everything needed for your car audio setup, but i dont know everything i need. I know i need my alternator (ebay) batteries (Darvex) 1 Gauge Wiring (Darvex) but i dont know what else. Car: 1997 Nissan Maxima *No Bose Audio Package Trunk Dimensions: Width: 40 inches Depth: 28 inches Height: 16 Inches (Here are some pictures) http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g149/Ore...k14/H011305.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g149/Ore...eak14/H0113.jpg My goals: I just want to have a loud sound system, so I pretty much want to max out my maxima for a budget of $2500, this includes the subs, amps, comp speakers, deck, raammat, wiring,…

Hey guys ok my situation is this i have replace my stock battery with a kinetik 2400 and i also have a 800 my lights still dim badly i am running a hifoniks brutus bxi 2608 im running the full 2600 on 1 ohm on my cascade designs omega 15. Since i have a dodge charger my batterys are in the trunk only and the stock cable going to the battery form the alt is i believe 2 awg i forget. my alt is 140 amps. and the cable going batt to batt is 1/0 and the ground is 1/0. my idea is this i will mount another kinetik hc800 under my hood right by the alternator and run 1/0 to it from the alt +. then run 1/0 off the + of the battery to the 2 batteries in the trunk will this solve m…

im thinking about ordering one of these amps to power my mids, i would like to know if any of you guys have used this amp and what are your thought about it and if it does rated power. thanks

i want blue tooth/ipod/changeable backround pic, the ipod is most important and SQ. what i have is in sig. i have good stuff and want the best deck for SQ. they both have the options i want. i think the p980 has a better screen and i think the ipod on the x991 is better. no one around me has this on display so I'm buying blind. please help me

I have never wired miltiple amps to one sub, so please bear with me. I have four JL Slash 1000/1v2's and two DP 21" 2 ohm dvc's. My question is; how do I wire two amps to each sub? Someone suggested that I wire each amp to each voice coil. As in wire one amp to one of the terminals on one sub, and another amp to the other on the same sub. Is this correct?

digital audio DA6606C whats your thoughts on it? my thoughts is it is a well made amp and can take some beating.... but i have had problems with it clipping out...

I was just wondering what most 1kw + amps do max power at and remain stable according to manufacturer at. If your 1 ohm stable amp can go to .5 ohm stable with some modding lets classify it is as doing max power at 1 ohm for the sake of this thread. Feel free to post what amp you have, what resistance it does max power at, and what rms power at that resistance is.

So, I bought 2 hawker 2v cells to run a 16v tap. I thought i had a problem with that setup and found out it was ok. Someone said it was a bad idea and said i should purchase a 3 post kinetik hc16v(brand new). Thought to myself that id be on the safe side if i went ahead and did it. Called kinetik personally and talk to Jon( I believe) and made sure everything was properly installed and according to my Blue Point Dmm everything was like he said. Well, let me tell u what..... The hc16v setup with the EA alt on 19.1v to the 16v side and with a digital meter with about 3 weeks of driving, the battery dies completely. Got pissed and ran my 2 2v cells now for more mile…

Well yup, it just died on the way home from school today. I have a 02 Explorer XLT, it is supposedly a 130 amp stock alternator. A couple weeks ago/ month or two ago it had gold coils/ copper color coils. It looked really good like similar to new. Now it looks all faded and completly junked out. On the way to school, it was cold and i was playing the sub while it was cold. I am pretty sure I blew the sub. It was a cheap little ten but I still need to replace it as it was my brothers. And now the alternator can't charge the battery. I'm not sure if they have anything to do with each other, just adding that info. I am trying to convince my parents to let me get a high out…

Well, My Kenwood Fried Itself. I'll Never Buy One Of Those Again. So, I Ask You, The SSA Audio Forum Public, For Near $250 Or Under, What Is The Best Possible HU For My Setup. I Like Clarity, But I Like Loud. The Components In My Sig Pretty Much Explain That. My Preferred Brand Is Eclipse But I'm Open To Others.

i have an 03 b5.5 sedan, just wondering if anyone knows how on earth i should access the alt and where in gods name i can find the engine-->chassis wire.... its like a jungle in there... links/pics greatly appreciated.

ok, im going to be running a 15" FI BTL Ported at 33hz By a Hifonics Bxi-2608D(rated 2600W RMS) going into a 2000 Hyundai Sonata. Right now, im planning on upgrading the Big 3 Do i fuse that Batt to the Alternator or not? Doing the upgrade with 1/0 And running a 1/0 power wire fused at 300A to the amp, and Grounding it with 1/0... What is the MOST Logical and Cost Effective Mothod to Kepp it all in good standings...? Knowing that any of these methods could be inefficient for what im running, here we go... Capacitor? Second Batt? Higher Amp Alternator? Turn the Gain Down On the Amp? or anything else? please tell me what you think will be best and why the other suck balls …

No, they are not mine - just saw them, would LOVE to get them, but I don't have a spare 8G's to drop. http://cgi.ebay.com/U-S-Amps_W0QQitemZ3203...%3A1|240%3A1318

is it better to use only the amp's gain to adjust output (up to the clipping point), or use minimal gain settings and set the bass eq on the hu high? I'm thinking it would be better to just use the amp b/ you dont want the hu sending an already clipped signal?

What reasonably priced options are there for something that will run all day at .67 ohms? Been thinking about a couple of SAZ1500's.... and yes, a 200+amp alt and second battery are planned.

http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/P1000.1.aspx Crunch, isn't that the same brand as hifonics? 1 Channel operation RMS Power @ 1 Ohm: 1000W x 1 RMS Power @ 2 Ohm: 500W x 1 RMS Power @ 4 Ohm: 250W x 1 Mono-Block A/B class amplifier topography MOSFET outputs Illuminated Crunch logo PWM digital power supply Fully adjustable crossovers, Hi-Pass and Low-Pass Silver RCA line inputs & outputs - permit amplifier daisy-chaining Silver power connections for $149.00

My friend is getting 2 15" RE MT's? hes getting a 3000Watt amp to add to his 1700watt amp and he wants to get 2 more batteries, but he apperently has a 15.3volt alternator?

what should i set the Sub sonic at if its a 15" FI BTL Ported at about 33Hz ive heard 23 and ive heard 33.. and what the funk do i set the phase to? 0-180 degrees

im upgrading my battery, and im obviously wondering if theres some kind of limit as to how many amps the new batt could be before i start damaging the alt? and do bigger batteries NEED a big alt or would say a 1500 amp batt be ok with a 120amp alt? i guess i just need a batt that my alt can actually recharge.... im really clueless when it comes to batteries and alts any help is greatly appreciated!

has any one ran power to a 2d blazer, i all ready ordered 25 feet but im wondering if i will need to get more, i am running one line from pos to pos on my powermaster and and the pos to amp and hopefully use it for a ground too, any one from experiance think 25 feet will do it

so as you may know according to my sig, as i wait for 1/0 gauge in the mail, my amp frequently goes into protect mode b/ my sh*tty "4 gauge" wire lacks the capacity to deliver consistent power. if the amp goes into protect too many times, is it toast? it seems to be sounding a little funny lately... like it lacks the output it once had......

This? Alpine IDA-X200 - http://www.techronics.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=8449 Alpine CDE-9874 - http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/cde-9874.aspx Pioneer DEH-P3000IB - http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/deh-p3000ib.aspx

Im asking Any and Everyone here to tell me what they think that the Hifonics BXI 2608D (rated at 2600Watts RMS) really puts out..... thanks