Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Anyone know where I can find the stock amp? Its the BOSE

anybody have any experience with this amp? i'm thinking about getting one off of ebay to power my 6.5"s and tweeters. all comments about it are welcome, good or bad. recomendations are welcome too!

I need to get a cheap crossover fast so I can take out my damn 3sixty.2 which is having bluetooth issues and send it in AGAIN...anyway. How bad are the crossovers on this page: Parts Express Any other suggestions on something I can get cheap. Something with high level inputs would be ideal, but I can run a LOC too. Best case would be 2 way active plus sub, but I really could get by with out the sub and without the bandpass on the mid channel because I could use the amp crossover for that (my mains are on a pair of Sundown 100.2's).

I have one 15" fi bl on a t1000bd. actual rms is 1481. I have major dimming in my denali. I am going to put another cell in back. Where can I buy an hc1200?? I live in milwaukee wisconsin. Does anyone sell them or do I have to get it online. Otherwise what is another good battery I can buy from somewhere to put in back??? Thanks

Got a question about the electrical of a 2000 Toyota Avalon. I don't have a system in there (still debating about that), so currently its a completely stock 2000 Avalon. I am not having any "electrical" problems but the starting is a little bit slower then I'd like and with winter coming up shortly I don't wanna be stuck with a slow starting car. What happens is that the car will take a bit to start up when its "cold", but if its only been off for a bit, it takes a bit longer to start-up. The interior lights on the dash will dim when i have the brights on and like..put windows up for example. Is this a sign of bad electrical? What are some options that I can do to speed …

I am figuring on buying 2 15" Q. I am debating whether i should get the 1500zx kicker amp or the PA 4000 amp. I also need to know whether i will need a new alternator if i already have an upgraded battery and a 4.0 FARAD capacitor. I want the system to be loud, and not have to worry about blowing the speaker. Also should i get the 2 15"s 1 ohm or 2ohm if im going to be using one amp. Thanks

I am not going to be ready to buy for about 6 more months. I just don't have the expertise as to brands and availability for my particular application. I would like to see 140amps. Any direction is much appreciated. Thanks, Chris

Theres gotta be a faster way to scroll thru the ipod interface.... the 6000 model was easy u can go by scrolling thru the letter and pick the song from there... anyway to do that for the 9800?

i was wondering if i could power one rl-p 18 with an aq2200d. would i get the sub in d4 and wire it in parallel to get a 2 ohm load, (which is 1300watts ). or should i get d2 and wire it in series to get a 4 ohm load? (740 watts) the soundsplinter website says 500 to 1000watts.

lol so my friend is debatin whether to keep his mtx thunder 1200 or sell it and either get 2 audioque 1200's he wants to know which amp is better? mtx thunder 1200 or audioque 1200 yall tell me and will the audioque fit 0 guage wire?

while i was driving yesterday my car started to make a strange clicking noise under the passanger side of the dash. earlier that day i had stopped by a sears auto center where a friend works and hooked the car up to their battery diagnostic and ran my system almost full volume for about 30 seconds. i noticed the voltage never dropped under 12 and the amperage draw stayed around 80-90 at the highest. i stopped at in and out and then drove the car home, the clicking started right as i was pulling in my driveway, the radio went on and off a bunch and lights on the dash went crazy. i have a redtop, kicker 1/0 a sundown 1500 and a re sx 15 (dual 2). it's in a 1995 accord 2.2…

What does clamping an amp mean? "my amp clamped at 2800watts at 2ohm 13.8 volts" does that mean he stuck it in one of these, and it put out better?

Is there any online retailers that will ship to Canada? I've contacted Battery Direct in Edmonton, they suggested a blue or yellow top, but there prices seemed kinda expensive..

I curious to know how you guys determine how many batteries you need to back up your power. I'm looking at running around 7000-7500 RMS. I've called and emailed around regarding HO alts for my car, the largest alt I've been able to find is around 250amp I've seen ppl talking about ca, cca, and ah, but how do those numbers help you determine what you need. I'm rather new to systems this big, I'm talking more than 1 extra batt in the trunk. Thanks for that help

A buddy of mine has an Autotek Super Sport 1500.1. He is willing to sell it to me, but hasn't named a price yet. Are these amps good quality? Will it be too much for a single 15" FI BL? and are they overrated?

ok here is the scenario: im running 2 BLs off of 2 1000.1 kickers and am gettin some dimmage(only when i turn it up), everything is stock question(s): whats the difference between a red top and yellow top(which is better reccommended if at all)? or do i need to get an xtra battery and/or cap? should i go ahead and attempt the "big 3 upgrade" to see if it helps any? thx in advance, and sorry, im noob when it comes to this stuff

would this paired with an Alpine iDA-X100(ipod deck) be a good match for processing if I wanted to run 2 or 3 way active? any thoughts from people who have or is currently running this eq. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6358_A...EQS+-GRAY-.html

So after asking many questions and buying everything that I need according to people on this forum I have an issue. I have 1 15"bl in my truck with a fosgate 1000bd. Everyone on here has told me I need another cell 0 guage wire, and to do the big 3. Every stereo shop that I went to here says that 0 guage is over doing it. They also say I will be fine with 1 yellowtop and that running 0 guage from the battery is pointless cause the current wire on it is way better than 0 guage is. They say 4 guage is plenty and all I need to do is run the 0 guage from the battery to the amp. Nothing else. They actually said that my 4 guage is fine. So what do I do??? Is it really …

i found two 75 ah sealed cells for 119 each.... so does anyone know of a cell or maybe 2 that will be the same price with just as many amp hours shiped to my door? im also gonna do another run of 0 gauge and maybe running them stright to the alt.... im also thinking about getting the mising link high setting to 15.7

Hey, I always wondered if my amp would run at this load so today i loaded it down to see if it would go to proctect mode or get hot. To my surprise it seemed to run it well. What could be some consequences of this that may not be obvious? Clipping? Damaged VC's? Damaged amp or would the fuses blow first? It a one ohm stable D class amp. Thankss

what companies should i look into? id have to email all for quotes and if they can even make me one, but i want the biggest alt i can get for the Mini. i just PMed nate @ EA, i believe i emailed iraggi months ago but i will prally email him again becuase i forgot what quote he gave me. stinger maybe? powermaster? what others are there? any help is appreciated.

eclipse cd7200 mk2 any good feed back? application is loud demo car. or it's just an sq head unit? thanks comments appreciated

I do not want to run an amp @ 1/2 ohm. I have two dual 2 subs. I can get a Massive P3000.1 for $618.99, bnib, but it has to come over the border, so I'm not sure what border fees will be and stuff. MA Audio HK4000D http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=14753 MA Audio HK802SX http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=14738 I've heard both of these are power hogs.. I was thinking of going with a 200 amp alternator, and some extra batteries, would this be enough? I haven't found the batteries yet. I could also buy two SAZ-1500Ds, old heat sink design from dB-r. However that is really more than I'm wanting to spend. What else is out there?

Sorry for sound like a retatard but what is Big 3?

Would running an Orion 2500D @