Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a Power Acoustik A2400DB (1800w rms @1ohm) to push my 15"s. I just want to know if this will work fine with them?

I have an Alpine headunit not sure of the model at the moment. I have all 4 ohm speakers hooked up rite now. If i were to hook up in exaple two 8 ohm speakers.. Would i mess up my headunit fom the diferent impeadences? Maybe a noobish question but i've never tried it. Thanks for the help.

Ok I just got an audio pipe 1300 amp it's a 2 channel amp. If I wire it two the outside + and - and hook it up to a 4 ohm single coil sub will that show as a 2 ohm load bridged and give it 600 watts or read it as 1 ohm and 300 watts??

Ok guys just wondering what you would recommend me I can do on my current electrical. Currently I have an 18 Fi Bl d2 running with a sundown Saz-1500d. My electical consists of the big three being done in 1/0 gauge and an optima yellow top up front with around 1000 ca and a newer Ford 700ca battery in back. I am just looking for a setup to get lower and louder than the BL can. The Bl is in a 7.3ish cu ft book tuned at like 31-32 hz. Currently my headlights lights have almost no dimming whatsoever so I know I have a decent electrical. My budgets right around 800. So I'm looking into selling the BL on here and getting the BTL. I'd probably end up building a new box for the …

Need info on Solid Audio F29 and F21 amps. The only thing I know is they are a Cutting Edge product.

Got a question about the electrical of a 2000 Toyota Avalon. I don't have a system in there (still debating about that), so currently its a completely stock 2000 Avalon. I am not having any "electrical" problems but the starting is a little bit slower then I'd like and with winter coming up shortly I don't wanna be stuck with a slow starting car. What happens is that the car will take a bit to start up when its "cold", but if its only been off for a bit, it takes a bit longer to start-up. The interior lights on the dash will dim when i have the brights on and like..put windows up for example. Is this a sign of bad electrical? What are some options that I can do to speed …

Are these amps much good, for the price? Does anyone know if the 1Kw class D puts out actual and how about strapped? The guts don't look that bad inside, and I don't think they sold these at walmart.

I have a ssa dcon dual 4 ohm and I bought a mtx thunder 3401 momkblock amp from a friend. I want to wire it to 2 ohms. The amp has two pos and neg outputs. Idk how to wire it. Do I wire it as if it's bridged and do pos of first two outputs with neg of the second two outputs? Just got it today and I did wire it the way I said and it doesn't sound as if it's pushing the full 400 watts. If anyone can get me a wiring diagram for this amp that would help

hi everyone have a problem and need your help i have a lanzar opti drive amp and i hook it up all right. the amp shows power but puts out no bass to my subs. now when i turn off my car the amp still stays on even when i pull out 1 of my fuses in the amp,

Amp is from 2001-02. There was a mod for it put out more power. I can't find it anywhere. Thanks

What kind of Parametric EQ do you guy's recommend? I have a clarion deck, it only has 2 volt pre-outs but its loaded with options such as you can rip someones cd directly on the deck, SD card mp3s, Ipod etc etc. Anyway it only has Bass and Treble for EQ therefore I want to either get a Parametric EQ or maybe one of those high speed 30 band eq's with the clipping light on each band, What kind do you guys recommend? money is a concern and its gotta be black Also where should the eq on my deck be set at when i get one 0 for bass and treble or -6 for bass and treble? I would also like it to be a min of 7 bands

lets say i get this amp: http://shop.vendio.com/inetdistributors/it...7115/index.html and run 2 coaxes off 2 channels for 60-70w @ 4 ohms each and run 2 subs off the other two channels for 150w @ 2 ohms each run rca's from the rear channel jacks in the amp to the sub control jacks in the HU, will i be able to control the subs from the HU?

I have a factory system in my new Explorer and do not want to go through installing my cd player right now. I want to keep it all stock except unhook the 8"sub in the back, run the signal to my amp and have my two 15s back there. How would I do this?? Could I simply hook a LOC to the wires that went to the 8"?? Or would the power that is run through that be too much for an LOC, or does it even matter? Quick Quick with the help if you can please, going to try and get this done by tomorrow. Thanks much.

so i am going to get this out the way right now, if you don't have anything constructive to add please don't post. looking for serious feedback here. i am just curious and have an itch to know, so i am sorry if this seems like a stupid question to you guys. ok so i have a pretty decent handle on car audio, been in and around the scene for years, but most of my expertise in in other forms of electronics, now my room mate and i just got done installing a killer system in a friends cadillac, and we only have 1 possibly 2 depends on how messed up the other one is of the bass knobs we need. they are for 3 older series RF bd1000's. any way my question is what stops me from usin…

I have ordered a D3400 for the trunk and front bat on my car. Should I have gotten the 3100 for the rear. If I read the details correctly it just has a larger AH value which means it should stay charged longer(I believe). If I have made a poor choice please let me know I will be running around 4k on a 270 amp alt. two runs of positive 1/0. Also would it be overkill to have more than one battery in trunk. I realize power is the hole key. Just wanted opinions to help me make correct decision even though I already have the two D3400 just wanted to get third and if the trunk bats are incorrect I will have to sell and order correctly.

I have a Soundstream TRX 2.550 and I need to properly set the gains for my subs. I checked the sticky in this section and it says to use the frequency that the bass boosts uses. My boost is +18 from 35-80hz. So what tone should I use?? I wish I didn't have to use the Bass boost knob but I have no other way to turn the subwoofer level down as I am on a factory stereo. If I turn the bass down on the factory stereo it turns the bass down for all speakers making it sound bad. Thanks

I picked up a used SAZ1500 for $50 off Facebook Marketplace, guy thought it didn't work. Figured I'd send it for repair, and be into a great amp for under $200. Got it home, fiddled with it, and found that none of the controls work, but if I run a signal through the slave input, it does indeed work. So it's stuck in slave mode. Does anyone know how to get it out of slave mode? I'd love to be able to set the gain properly, dial my system in the way it should be done. AND.... with proper electrical, can this amp be run at .5 ohms? Good ventilation, dual runs of 1/0 to dual 1/0-1/0 reducers at the amp, 250 amp alternator. Am running it now at 2 ohms to my (2) dual…

I had blown one of my subs a few months ago so I unhooked everything and removed from vehicle. After doing some upgrades and getting new subs in, I finally reinstalled them yesterday. The problem I've ran into is that the amps aren't producing any sound. They power up and show that there on, but no sound. What voltage should the remote wire show? This is the only thing I can think of to check. I will say though that when I had a sub blow it blew the fuse between batteries and the amps where underpowered for awhile. Could this have caused internal problems? All help needed fast!!!

Drew and I have been discussing some possible options for my new HU and I decided to order a Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X794. Pretty pumped! Anyone have any experience with this HU? Yeah I know it's a little late for that but w/e

So my amp has been acting up since the day I got it.(Diablo Audio Technologies HellFire 1000.1) The problem is that it plays for a few minutes after I turn on the truck and goes into "Alarm Mode". (If I restart the truck it will come back on for a few minutes as if it had a clock inside telling the amp to only turn on for a few minutes(3 or 5 min.)) At first the ground was a little loose so I tightened it. It still kept on doing it so I bought some Sandpaper to make a nice, clean ground and it still does it. Can someone help me? P.S.- As I've mentioned before I did a direct swap with my MTX amp. In fact, the only thing I changed was the ground which is alot better now. H…

I currently have this head unit http://www.walmart.com/ip/JVC-KD-S37-USB-CD-Receiver-with-Front-AUX-In/15627186 with 2volt pre outs i believe. I was wondering if i upgraded to this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_48464_Kenwood-KDC-X696.html with 4volt pre outs if i would notice a difference in the way my system sounded. Higher pre outs are good right??

I will be running a memphis 16-2000d on a old style 18" btl. I also will be running a 400 watt kicker amp for 2 CDT component systems. I have a 200 amp alternator and i just ran into a deal for two D34 red top optima batteries. Will one red top in the front and one in the back be enough to support my system? All will be going in a 1996 gmc suburban. I know yellow tops or kinetiks will probably be better, if the red tops wont be good enough anybody know were i can get a deal on something better?

Hi guys. As the topic states. below is what I have considdered so far pls give advice .. feel free to add and give a reason. preffer not to get processor just yet. system will be used for 2-way active. eclipse 7200 MK II (this is what i wanted to get but now people say its not all that) Price around s$1050 alpine 9887 around $800 singapore dollar clarion D2 (price not sure and the ugliest of the bunch) Pioneer DEX-P90RS (looks promising but way over budget and no-one here have it, so that i can audit it. s$1500)

Hey everyone i am new to car audio and am planning on doing a big setup. I was planning on getting a 250 amp alt with 2 yellow tops powering 2 audio q 2200 connected with 2 12 inch fi btls. My question is that do i need fuses? If so how big do the fuses have to be? How do i know? Where do i need a fuse the most? THANKS

ok, me and another person on RoE are having an argument on using a y cable on rca. he thinks that using a y cable is not going to do anything to the signal or anything and it is going to be the same as if there where no y cable. while i think and have found on other places online that say that using a y cable can weaken the signal and basic under standing of electricity does back that up. and that is while the voltage is the same when spliting but the current that is carrying the signal is cut in half. so who is correct? and i would post a link to the discussion but RoE has the forum set up so you can't.