Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

it says 4kwatts. I found one that a guy has that he says is brand new. I can't find much out about them. Is this thing legit!? 4000x1@1ohm at 13.8v? I'll swipe it up if it is.

How does american bass stack up quality-wise to sundown? Specifically the xd3000 to the saz1500? Any help would be appreciated.

can someone send me the link to the website that u just plug in the numbers for amps subs and impedance's...i feel really handicaped right now i cant find it anywere thanks

I was told the only time I need to worry about getting a better grade RCA wire is if its for mids and highs. Is that true? Im about to order RCAs for my sundown 1200 and just want to make sure I dont get too cheap of an RCA if I need something better than basic

What can anyone tell me about this company? it looks as if they are similer to XS as far as the ratings and pricing? Please lets not start a bashing fight here! I would like some info if its out there? Here is there E-mail [email protected]

I just got my system up and running a lil while ago, now I have a problem. I had a Maxxlink in, but the subs were barely moving, though quite loud. I had the input level set correctly, and wired up just as the manual diagrammed. So I decided to take it out and see how it would be with just 2 sets of strapped amps (4 SAZ-3000d's). I only have one set of rcas going back from the hu, so I got some rca splitters so I could get rcas to the other master amp. Now, I'm getting a ringing out of the subs, sounds almost like a 1000hz tone or something. The pitch also increases as I get on the throttle. I also have quite a bit less output than when the Maxxlink was in. So I've been …

in your opinion whick is a better batt for every day use. i have been thinking about 3 SHURiKEN 140ah batts, but how do they compare to XS Power D3100's? i want something powerfull as hell and very durable for longevity. i know how they look on paper, but how do they perform in the real world

Where can you find these I’ve seen someone mention they can handle 6v out

I need a nice sound quality amp that will get crazy loud and sound good doing it too. i am building a wall in my mountaineer. i was thinking a t8004 or t15004 by rockford. it does not have to be the best damn sound quality but something decent. any suggestions?

alpine's site doesn't say anything nor does the manual, but do you think the MRP-M850 would operate at anything below 2 ohm? i have a dual 4ohm 10" RL-i and i have decided i want a little more bass, so i'm wanting to get another RL-i. thing is my options are 4ohm or 1ohm if i do so. at 4ohm i'm not going to get more wattage than i'm running now at 2 because i'm only running it at about 500ish. i'd really like to not have to buy another amp though along with another sub. so you think it could handle 1ohm even though it says nothing about 1ohm? ratings RMS Power (at 14.4V THD+N, 20Hz-200Hz) Per channel into 4 ohms: 500W x 1 (0.08% THD) Per channel into 2 ohms: 800W x 1

Ok I hope I set this up correctly. Got another question for everyone. Decided to make it a poll. Years ago in the area I grew up in everyone used bass blockers to remove lower frequencies from the smaller speakers 4x6, 5x7, 6.5 and 6x9's. Keeping all the lower bass to the larger speakers. The smaller the speaker the higher the bass blocker frequency. The larger the speaker the lower the blocker frequency. Till you got to the subs. Then they were controlled by the amp so none were used. I have never used them myself. But I am now finding myself looking into purchacing some for my non amped, non component speakers ( the ones listed in the poll ). What are your op…

What would be the most efficient way to reach 15k rms? Options are 2 Crossfire 8ks, 2 Ampere Audio 7.5s, or 2 Ampere Audio 8.0s VS 6 Scv 3ks, 6 Skar 2500s, or 6 American Bass 175.1 VFLs I will be powering 12 15s so I am looking to get around 13 to 15k rms. Cost wise 2 amps would be cheaper.

I read the sticky but I wanted to make sure I was correct, I have a alpine type r 10" dual 2 ohm sub and a kenwood KAC-9104D amp which is 500 watts rms @ 4 ohms. So is it; Voltage = sqrt(500 watts x 4 ohms) ?

Just installed my 15" bl running off a bc2k. Stock alt, big 3, and a gold battery up front (don't remember the brand but it was the best I could get from advance) voltage is ok until I'm full tilt. I was looking at a cheaper Xs power battery but there still $150. Any other brands I should b looking into? Looking for a cheaper price but I don't want a shitty battery

Looking for a quality amp that can push about 1200 - 1500 actual RMS @ 2 ohms. Class D and smaller design prefferred, mono block. This is for my L7 sub Been looking at the new Kicker amps. i like how small they are, and are CEA certified but want to see if i could find better out there. Also checked out Sundown 1500D amp but tests show only pushes 985 watts @ 2 ohms actual output. Hard to find amps with proper real world ratings.

Is there really any advantage to running this amp on a sub. I know alot of sound quality guys love this amp to use on tweeters and mids. I was under the impression that once this amp pushes out a certain amount of watts it switches from class a mode to an a/b amp. The only advantage i see is that its stable down to .25 ohms. Anybody that knows about this amp please comment

I am going to start installing my system next week and I am going to add a 2400 amp kinetik battery in the cab of my truck. I have seen some people say that all I need to do to hook up the 2 batteries is run 0 gauge wire with a fuse connecting them. But I have also seen people say when you run 2 batteries you need to wire in a relay or isolator between the 2 batteries. What do most of you run? Specs: Stock Alt. Optima Red Top for the started battery 2400 amp kinetik battery 0 gauge wire Audioque 2200 watt amp 2 Fi Q15's Kenwood 140 4ch. amp -Alex

I have a question, I was rolling down the highway when one of my friends in my backseat heard sparks shooting from the battery (which was when I looked back to see my battery posts red hot and melted. I have the Kinetik HC1800 in the back, and just a stock Interstate battery in the front along with the Big 3 in 1/0 wiring. What would be the cause of this major problem??? And yes I did stop in the middle of the road to fan out the smoke in the back :( PS Ill get pictures of the demolished battery if you would like

I was given this amp and plan on installing it tomorrow but im having no luck finding the rms of this amp. I thought I found that it was 50x4 but the picture of that amp was different than mine. The heat sink on mine overhangs two inchs on each side. Amp says Memphis PBC 4400. I took some pictures but with my iPad but they're a little blurry. Will be running an image dynamics component set off of this. I need to know if I can bridge them or if this amp puts out too much for that.

How's it going guys, I'm looking into a little upgrade on my door speakers and I really need some help. Currently, I run Orion XTRs off of head unit power (herp derp). Obviously they don't get loud as they are not amplified, but I have a feeling that if amplified, they will sound like complete shit when cranked. I'd like to run something a bit more capable, but I just don't quite understand how it all works. Here's what I'm considering going with: 4 Selenium 6W4Ps 4 Crescendo SuperTweets First question: Will this be enough speakers to cover all frequencies produced in music? I've got my BTL covering the lower end, but am I missing a section of frequencies that would be lo…

i added a yellow top in the rear today and did the big three. i wired the second batt in parallel + to + and - to - then ran my power to the amp off the rear positive. after i hooked everything up i noticed the the red batt light on the dash below the check engine like was glowing red and the emergency brake light stays on even when its off and these didn't do it before i installed everything... and on top of that my power steering when out (i know it doesnt have anything to do with the batts but just wanted to add that too...lol) any suggestions why the light would still be on?? Oh and my check engine light is on too but that was already on before i installed everyt…

Sears has a nice battery sale going on right now. 25% off til August 23 (while supplies last).

Alright so I just got my Sundown SAX 1200 in the mail friday and I was going to wait for my Kinetik battery to get here ( this friday a week later ) before hooking it up at all.. But today I was just dying to hear it because its so hard to wait.. So I went ahead and hooked it up using the old wires that were in from my old crappy sony 1000w max 500wrms walmart amp, Well when I hooked it up and I put the gain at maybe 3/4 or a little under and was listening to it, I turned the little bass knob up and once it got to about half way up, anything above half on the bass knob didn't even make it louder, almost like it is at its limit.. but can it be at its limit at 3/4 on amp an…

Looking to upgrade my entry-level pioneer DEH-14UB Head Unit IF it will make a worthwhile difference in output or sound level mainly on my sub-stage going with a 4-6v pre-out upper-class pioneer, kenwood or alpine deck. Tell me what do you guys think? I already have the entry-level pioneer wired to a clarion MCD-360 crossover with 5v max output voltage so am I really going to notice a difference in the bass production from the subs or no?? All comments and opinions are appreciated thanks:)

I'm still waiting for the GCON 10-D2 to actually arrive, but figured I'd take the time to look for a amp to power this beast now. It will be in a sealed box, in a saturn ion 2003. Looking to present a 1ohm load at amplifier, since I'm assuming that power at 4ohms is asking too much for my budget. No HO alt, or big 3 done yet, assuming it won't be needed yet though. I was mostly wondering if I'd need to feed it the full 750w, or if I could get by with less, near the 500w level? Just wondering as my budget is a bit tight currently, and I was hoping to grab the amp for under $150. Given what I've listed, would any of these amps work well, or are there others I should be cons…