Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hello folks My first time doing this so bare with me please. Now I have an old school ss granite 180.6 someone who actually knows these amps and what they can do lets talk ....

Can someone link me to a tool designed to crimp terminals on a larger scale such as 1/0 gauge or give me a home remedy to doing it that doesn't require purchasing specialized tools?

I honestly never knew what a cap was until my friend told me he's selling his. What are the cons/pros of using one?

Hey guys, I'm just looking for some help or advice on what to do with my old amplifier. It's a RF punch series P500-2 (I believe the 2008 model? --Silver metal plates cover it), I recently had a local audio store run my wires through my new car and my intentions were to hook up that amplifier. But before they install any amp they run some kind of test on it to make sure it works, at least so he told me, and he said the amp was broken, with no further comments about it. That didn't seem right to me, although it may very well be broken, but I questioned it because I had it installed in my old vehicle (GMC Jimmy) and when I sold the Jimmy it worked just fine. So I'm thinking…

Does anyone have any experience with a Digital Audio DHC2154? My only concern is can it do 1000 true rms at 1 ohm. I know its not a great amp but my kicker 1200.1 was stolen and I am trying to work through college and dont have alot of extra right now. A guy on realm of excursion offered it to me for $150 shipped. Is it worth it?

A pair of 4-ohm DVC GCONs are on the way. I'd like to think that up to $300 could get me into a decent quality 1-ohm stable amp to drive these. I have a run of 1/0 OFC to power this. I know what the numbers say, but you guys know the real world on what I could/should use to power these. Prefer to buy something used/taken care of; I think I can get more for my money that way. Looking around, some options that I *think* would be good are Soundstream (Reference), Audioque, Sundown Audio, Crescendo...probably a bunch of others. Just looking for some guidance. If it's been hashed out already, please point me there while I search!

I've been watching a few videos of people using the Steve Meade/D'Amore Engineering DD-1 Distortion Detector for setting their gains and also in identifying if and where the head-unit output begins to distort (max safe listening volume). Anyone use this before or know anyone that has? Whats the verdict on this thing? Just asking out of curiosity, i've always set mine by ear anyway but it does look interesting. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_61378_SMD-DD-1-Distortion-Detector-Analyzer-by-Steve-Meade-Designs.html

hello, first post. i am hopefully getting a Fi BTL soon . anyways, i am either gettin one 12" or one 15" probly a 15". they are 2000RMS. i can get either dual 2 or 1 ohm voic coils.(ohms is the main thing i dont get in car audio) now, which should i go with? dual 1 or 2 ohm? 2 ohm is more reliable right? also, if i wer to go with dual 2 ohm...when looking for a amp, i would be looking for a amp with 2000 rms at 2ohm right? or would it be 4ohm at that point? (2ohm + 2ohm?) and for the dual 1ohm i would be looking for 2000rms at 2ohm? AHH... so confused. plz help me with this. any opinions on amps is GREAT! i dont want to spend 1500$ on a amp. i need kinda a budget amp…

I just picked one up for $150 to run a pair of 10" IDQ D4's and a pair of CDT Cl-5x coaxes in my friends car. Just wondering if it was worth the 150 or not. 4 ohm stereo @ 75 WRMS x 4 2 ohm stereo @ 150 WRMS x 4 4 ohm bridged @ 300 WRMS x 2 all rated at 13.5 vdc

Looking at a 100.4 sundown going active up front... 6-1/2" midbass and 1" tweet in the doors... Deciding which of the 2 units will give me better control with going active... And also which of the two is just "better" overall... though i feel it's not really important mentioning but the subs is powered by a saz3000D on 2 BL 12" I also have a 300amp iraggi alt and a yellowtop upfront and a kinetik hc24000 in the rear... Anyone have experience with these HU's let me know please...

My only request for this is that you have owned the unit. I dont think your favorite can truly be something you have never owned. You also must say why it was your favorite. Of the ones ive owned I must say that my favorite is the Eclipse CD8053. It was really easy to use for all of the things you could change and tweek. I think my only real complaint was the touch rotary knobs that caused me to go from volume 12 to 345524352 billion with what felt like one click of the wheel sometimes.

I have read the amp setting tutorial on CA.com and it says to play a 60hz tone and set your gains to the AC voltage for your RMS. My question is wouldn't it be better to set the gains based on your box tuning because the amp puts out more power near box tuning to avoid clipping or would you still use a 60 hz tone? Like my box is tuned to 40 hz wouldn' it be better to tune my system with a 40hz test tone? Correct me if I am wrong, please and since I listen to rap I should use a -3db tone right? And just wondering does anybody know what db tones are used on Bass Mekanik Quad Maximus? Could I use that to set my gains safely?

I have been thinking that I want a pretty decent size (1000WRMS) maybe up to 1500 but I want a Mono block amp that will do a 1 ohm load and like it! Would this amp meet this criteria! It says 1200W RMS and I have heard some decent stuff on these amps but not enough to know if they have the Power they say! Specs say http://edesignaudio.com/product.php?cid=4&pid=6&cur=USD see here for yourself! I like the look too! Kinda hip and says play me loud! <p> But yeah so who has one or has messed around with these bad boys! Good price too for a new amp! $320 from a neighbor! What ya'll thinkin? Get it or pass? Dont absolutely need it but want it cuz need a new project…

It's time to start doin some more research so time to get as detailed as possible with how to do this. I am planning on installing air ride in my car soon so i can upgrade my small 12v battery bank to all 16v batts and swappin my mechman alt with an external regulated system charging at 19v. This will be for me and everyone else interested in doing this- 12v batts float around 13.0v. They typically get charged with a 14v alternator at 14.4-14.9v. 16v batts float around 17.3-17.9v. They typically get charged with a 18v alternator at 18.5-19.3v. So now we got the basics covered. Most car audio amplifiers are not 18v capable. There maximum voltage input ranges between 15-…

Looking to upgrade my entry-level pioneer DEH-14UB Head Unit IF it will make a worthwhile difference in output or sound level mainly on my sub-stage going with a 4-6v pre-out upper-class pioneer, kenwood or alpine deck. Tell me what do you guys think? I already have the entry-level pioneer wired to a clarion MCD-360 crossover with 5v max output voltage so am I really going to notice a difference in the bass production from the subs or no?? All comments and opinions are appreciated thanks:)

Is the DMM method a fairly accurate way to measure the watts output of an amplifier? I set the meter on AC volts, connect leads to speaker terminals (w/ subwoofer still hooked up), play a sinewave burp and take that reading to determine how many watts went to the sub. Does that sound correct? I already set the gains w/ an o-scope so I'm not trying to do that. I want to calculate how many watts actually is going to my sub thanks

Am using this amp currently with a 15" Fi Q with BP Power in a 4cu.ft box @ 30Hz and it sounds pretty good. What i need to know is, how precise is the clipping led on the bassboost knob? I set my gain the way that it was explained in the "How To" section of the forum but anytime i turn the volume to about "half" (20/40) the clipping light being to blink. The Q is wired to 2 ohms and the 2200 does 1300 watts at that rating whicn means a gain setting of 50.9 volts. To be on the safe side, i set my gain to 47.5 volts with a DMM at 3/4 volume with all my current setting. Am not sure of what am doing wrong. Any help would be great, thanks.

i was wondering if i could run a small jumper wire from the power input on my amp to the rem? something happened in my headunit and the rem doesnt work ive tried rewiring it and wiring it to different wires and my old amp had different settings for turn on so i was fine there. just wondering if i can run a jumper wire from positive to the rem

I'm still waiting for the GCON 10-D2 to actually arrive, but figured I'd take the time to look for a amp to power this beast now. It will be in a sealed box, in a saturn ion 2003. Looking to present a 1ohm load at amplifier, since I'm assuming that power at 4ohms is asking too much for my budget. No HO alt, or big 3 done yet, assuming it won't be needed yet though. I was mostly wondering if I'd need to feed it the full 750w, or if I could get by with less, near the 500w level? Just wondering as my budget is a bit tight currently, and I was hoping to grab the amp for under $150. Given what I've listed, would any of these amps work well, or are there others I should be cons…

ok so im running two CVX 12" @ 2ohm currently running them on a Kicker ZX 750.1 amp I know i am underpowering these subs. I am hopeing to get a 1,600 or a 2,000 watt hifonics amp Now my Question is are the hifonics amp's really good ? i hear good things about them and will a 1600 watt push the two VCX's really well or would it be best to have the 2,000 watt amp. Would i regret getting the 1600. i like my current kicker amp But it pretty simple amp and most def not strong enough

Hey everyone I found someone selling this amp on craigslist and wanted to make sure that it is a true 2000 watt amp otherwise I know I'll be getting ripped off. The amp is: 2000 watt Performance Teknique I just want to make sure it's not similar to something like a kenwood amp that doesn't give off as much watts as what it really says. Thanks!

Hi, All, I have a couple questions related to the internal subwoofer crossover(?) of the Alpine CDA-105. So far, Alpine Tech support and Crutchfield "advisors" have been unable to help -- they only know what's in the manual, which I am perfectly capable of reading myself! 1) Does the High Pass Filter function (60/80/100 Hz or off) affect only the front and rear line or speaker outputs, and NOT the subwoofer output? I would assume only the front and rear line or speaker outputs would be filtered, but, the manual does not clearly specify. (See page 14 of the manual.) http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM%20CDA-105_EN.pdf 2) Assuming my abov…

I just got an L.A. Sound 4 Channel amplifier, model number S835, it was given to me by my uncle, I tested it with a 6x9 and a PC power supply and all the channels seem to work, it's supposedly 800 watts (max I'm assuming), has anyone ever heard of L.A. Sound or used any of their amplifiers? Were they any good?

Looking for a quality amp that can push about 1200 - 1500 actual RMS @ 2 ohms. Class D and smaller design prefferred, mono block. This is for my L7 sub Been looking at the new Kicker amps. i like how small they are, and are CEA certified but want to see if i could find better out there. Also checked out Sundown 1500D amp but tests show only pushes 985 watts @ 2 ohms actual output. Hard to find amps with proper real world ratings.

i want a 2000 sundown but dont hav the money for that right now so these 2 amp is my next choise wat the diffence b/w the 2 which one is a better buy an why ill be running 2 SA-12 with 2 yellow top batt , stock atl with the big 3 thanks