Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I am going to be getting some hertz 165xl components and am considering running them active with a nice sound processor. The problem is I don't know much about sound processors or running speakers active. what should I look for when buying a processor? is it worth it or should I just use the crossover that comes with the speakers?

I honestly never knew what a cap was until my friend told me he's selling his. What are the cons/pros of using one?

Hey everyone I found someone selling this amp on craigslist and wanted to make sure that it is a true 2000 watt amp otherwise I know I'll be getting ripped off. The amp is: 2000 watt Performance Teknique I just want to make sure it's not similar to something like a kenwood amp that doesn't give off as much watts as what it really says. Thanks!

I've been looking at the audio control epicenter. I would like to put some Iron Maiden, Judas Priest, Molly hatchet and so on in the cd player and actually have some bass. I know there are a few different bass restoration processors out there and I have a basic understanding of how they work. I've been searching this topic for better then a week now, but the info. I like to know doesn't seem to be easy to find. I see videos where a turn of the knob makes your subs start "doing work". Most of the topics I run across are either useless videos or "my subs are blown up". What I can't find is are they worth it? Yes there may be more output at the turn of a knob, but does it so…

its wierd. when my aunt found out that i was into car stereo, she told me her brother bought out and now owns USamps. how are they?? what is the reputation of usamps? from the looks of it they look mighty fine! http://www.digitalcaraudio.com/id59.htm

well i was at a stop light with the system on about 1/4 the way up so not drawing much power. my volt meter was reading 13.8-14V constent. then when i took off from the stop light i cranked her back up to around 3/4 volume ( slowly increased volume) and i heard a loud squeel from under the hood and everything shut off ( HU,amp subs, ect. ) my volt meter was going nuttsssss. it went from 14V down to 12.1 in a milla second and eveything was powered off so nothing was drawing power besides the truck running. so now i have to find a replacement alt with hardly any cash... im F'd in the A big time now.

I read the sticky but I wanted to make sure I was correct, I have a alpine type r 10" dual 2 ohm sub and a kenwood KAC-9104D amp which is 500 watts rms @ 4 ohms. So is it; Voltage = sqrt(500 watts x 4 ohms) ?

I'd like to get some feed back on a idea I had for a busbar I was going to use these since my battarys are top post https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pair-Universal-Brass-Car-Battery-Terminal-Clamp-Clips-Connector-Gold-Tone/178886665?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=571&adid=22222222228052157017&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=152604451174&wl4=pla-265686942388&wl5=9016899&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=111838760&wl11=online&wl12=178886665&wl13=&veh=sem Battary (5 g31 105ah per) https://m.samsclub.com/ip/duracell-agm-deep-cycle-marine-and-rv-battery-group-size-31dtmagm/prod3590232

when someone says there amp is 80% efficient at 2600 watts what exactly does that mean electrical system wise?

I was just wondering what are you guys's thoughs on the following brands of amps. US Acoustic Memphis Hifonics MA Audio Infinity And wich one would you trust the most.

Hello folks My first time doing this so bare with me please. Now I have an old school ss granite 180.6 someone who actually knows these amps and what they can do lets talk ....

I still have my 15" sundowns and I've recently been offered a pretty good deal on this amp. I was wondering if it's better than my current amp found here.

here is what i am trying to run: (2) dayton rs1800 7" mid bass, (2) cdt es-04 4" mid range and (2) cdt tw25s. i want to crossover the bass at 800 and below, mid range 800-4000hz and the tweets 4000-20000hz. any ideas of a crossover or company that has the capability to run at these points. i have been looking at the 3sixty and some of audiocontrol's products. my h/u is an alpine 7897 and the amps that i have are zx650.4 and a 100.2. they will be put in a towncar. any feedback is appreciated.

Am using this amp currently with a 15" Fi Q with BP Power in a 4cu.ft box @ 30Hz and it sounds pretty good. What i need to know is, how precise is the clipping led on the bassboost knob? I set my gain the way that it was explained in the "How To" section of the forum but anytime i turn the volume to about "half" (20/40) the clipping light being to blink. The Q is wired to 2 ohms and the 2200 does 1300 watts at that rating whicn means a gain setting of 50.9 volts. To be on the safe side, i set my gain to 47.5 volts with a DMM at 3/4 volume with all my current setting. Am not sure of what am doing wrong. Any help would be great, thanks.

Hi, I'm looking for your experienced recommendations, for a good efficient 3000+ RMS bass amp, it's to power 1 15'' 3000rms Fi SP4 D2 sub and keeping in mind I have a low budget(hope to spend a lot less than $600), car has already all the electrical upgrades. Thank you.

What is the difference in using a AGM battery instead of a Gel battery when running a secondary battery for an audio system? If the Ah and Reserve Capacity are the same or very similar in both batteries, then how do they differ?

i havnt bought the subs so it can be either for a dual 1 or dual 2? they rms 2000 each so something around that was looking to spend about $1000 for amp would be better if its like $750 but dont think thats possible for a good new amp. thank you in advance

How's it going guys, I'm looking into a little upgrade on my door speakers and I really need some help. Currently, I run Orion XTRs off of head unit power (herp derp). Obviously they don't get loud as they are not amplified, but I have a feeling that if amplified, they will sound like complete shit when cranked. I'd like to run something a bit more capable, but I just don't quite understand how it all works. Here's what I'm considering going with: 4 Selenium 6W4Ps 4 Crescendo SuperTweets First question: Will this be enough speakers to cover all frequencies produced in music? I've got my BTL covering the lower end, but am I missing a section of frequencies that would be lo…

I was dinkin with my stereo today. i usually run my kenwood 900/1 to my 2 12 inch kicker L5s. they hit pretty dang good. i got curious and daisy linked my alpine 350/1 ( I know its probably a bad idea to link mis matched amps like that but i was bored ) and hooked up my 2 10 inch rockford fosgates. it was VERY loud. i had it all the way up and looked at my alt gauge and it had dropped from over 14 to nearly 9 volts. just for future reference since i plan on buying a matching kenwood amp to what i have and running both, should i use a capacitor or just get a second battery? my alternator is pretty new and i have a brand spankin new 800 cca battery. my amp is wired with #2 …

Is the DMM method a fairly accurate way to measure the watts output of an amplifier? I set the meter on AC volts, connect leads to speaker terminals (w/ subwoofer still hooked up), play a sinewave burp and take that reading to determine how many watts went to the sub. Does that sound correct? I already set the gains w/ an o-scope so I'm not trying to do that. I want to calculate how many watts actually is going to my sub thanks

Found out today that Pep Boys has 25% off online orders plus Optima has a $20 mail in rebate right now. That puts these in the $140 price range. I already have a Diehard Platinum Group 31M for the rear. Just wondering which of these 2 are best for my usage. There are mixed reviews on Google search regarding this in an audio application. I really don't plan on playing a lot with the car off, which makes it seem the Red Top would be best. Am I correct?

Hey guys, I posted this on 180db.com but have yet to get any responses. I just purchased a new Kinetik HC1800 and when I installed it my car was idling so rough that I was scared to continue with it. Let me explain the install first cuz it might have something to do with it. Had an Optima Redtop that was okay but I kept getting the dimming when pumping the tunes. I then bought a 1.2Farad RF capacitor and it was a little better but not by much. So instead of experimenting with upgrading wires yet I decided to purchase the HC1800. Well, cables were too short to reach the battery connectors even when turned 180 to be a little closer. So I went to the hardware store and purch…

I need a nice sound quality amp that will get crazy loud and sound good doing it too. i am building a wall in my mountaineer. i was thinking a t8004 or t15004 by rockford. it does not have to be the best damn sound quality but something decent. any suggestions?

It's time to start doin some more research so time to get as detailed as possible with how to do this. I am planning on installing air ride in my car soon so i can upgrade my small 12v battery bank to all 16v batts and swappin my mechman alt with an external regulated system charging at 19v. This will be for me and everyone else interested in doing this- 12v batts float around 13.0v. They typically get charged with a 14v alternator at 14.4-14.9v. 16v batts float around 17.3-17.9v. They typically get charged with a 18v alternator at 18.5-19.3v. So now we got the basics covered. Most car audio amplifiers are not 18v capable. There maximum voltage input ranges between 15-…

Anyone have any first hand experience with ct sounds amplifiers? I'm considering their 7k watt amp but I been reading mixed reviews about them