Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hey everyone I found someone selling this amp on craigslist and wanted to make sure that it is a true 2000 watt amp otherwise I know I'll be getting ripped off. The amp is: 2000 watt Performance Teknique I just want to make sure it's not similar to something like a kenwood amp that doesn't give off as much watts as what it really says. Thanks!

Hey guys, I posted this on 180db.com but have yet to get any responses. I just purchased a new Kinetik HC1800 and when I installed it my car was idling so rough that I was scared to continue with it. Let me explain the install first cuz it might have something to do with it. Had an Optima Redtop that was okay but I kept getting the dimming when pumping the tunes. I then bought a 1.2Farad RF capacitor and it was a little better but not by much. So instead of experimenting with upgrading wires yet I decided to purchase the HC1800. Well, cables were too short to reach the battery connectors even when turned 180 to be a little closer. So I went to the hardware store and purch…

what are some of the ugliest amps u've ever seen??were they ugly and dependable/underrated/efficient???or just plain ugly???my vote goes to this lil' gangsta!!!!!! Gangsta is here and it be bad-ass! The new Gangsta series from Crunch is aimed at the rap and hip-hop crowd and all those bad boyz who want to make a statement with their tunes: Hittin' hard and rollin' loud. Heat dissipation is one of the most important factors in amplifier design and Crunch

Found out today that Pep Boys has 25% off online orders plus Optima has a $20 mail in rebate right now. That puts these in the $140 price range. I already have a Diehard Platinum Group 31M for the rear. Just wondering which of these 2 are best for my usage. There are mixed reviews on Google search regarding this in an audio application. I really don't plan on playing a lot with the car off, which makes it seem the Red Top would be best. Am I correct?

Ok I was told the Sundown 4500D is a bad amp because the 86% eff @ 4ohms at 100Hz, so I was told to look into the HellFire 2500.1, the MTX TA92001, and the T1500-1bd. I am going to be getting 2 12" BTLs, fully loaded daily drivers. Anyone have any words of wisdom?

I was just wondering what are you guys's thoughs on the following brands of amps. US Acoustic Memphis Hifonics MA Audio Infinity And wich one would you trust the most.

I still have my 15" sundowns and I've recently been offered a pretty good deal on this amp. I was wondering if it's better than my current amp found here.

its wierd. when my aunt found out that i was into car stereo, she told me her brother bought out and now owns USamps. how are they?? what is the reputation of usamps? from the looks of it they look mighty fine! http://www.digitalcaraudio.com/id59.htm

I am going to be getting some hertz 165xl components and am considering running them active with a nice sound processor. The problem is I don't know much about sound processors or running speakers active. what should I look for when buying a processor? is it worth it or should I just use the crossover that comes with the speakers?

i havnt bought the subs so it can be either for a dual 1 or dual 2? they rms 2000 each so something around that was looking to spend about $1000 for amp would be better if its like $750 but dont think thats possible for a good new amp. thank you in advance

I'm considering the option of adding a small battery to the back to help with voltage. From searching around I seem to find one style of wiring it up. I was under the impression that I would need to a whole new run of wire from the front battery to the back. Which would result in 2 runs of power wire going front to back. This is something I don't want to do. On the other hand, like the picture below, it seems I can wire it as such: A single run of power wire from the front battery to the positive terminal of the battery in the trunk. From that positive terminal another run of wire goes to the amp. Then the rear battery and the amp are both grounded in separate locations.…

im a little confused.... everyone tells me the AP 3000.1 is stable @ 2 ohms, but the AP catalog says one... gimme some real feedback

I was dinkin with my stereo today. i usually run my kenwood 900/1 to my 2 12 inch kicker L5s. they hit pretty dang good. i got curious and daisy linked my alpine 350/1 ( I know its probably a bad idea to link mis matched amps like that but i was bored ) and hooked up my 2 10 inch rockford fosgates. it was VERY loud. i had it all the way up and looked at my alt gauge and it had dropped from over 14 to nearly 9 volts. just for future reference since i plan on buying a matching kenwood amp to what i have and running both, should i use a capacitor or just get a second battery? my alternator is pretty new and i have a brand spankin new 800 cca battery. my amp is wired with #2 …

Hi, I'm looking for your experienced recommendations, for a good efficient 3000+ RMS bass amp, it's to power 1 15'' 3000rms Fi SP4 D2 sub and keeping in mind I have a low budget(hope to spend a lot less than $600), car has already all the electrical upgrades. Thank you.

ok my brother is doing an spl build (one sound stream xxx-15 quad 1.2ohm coils) and we have a bugit of $600-$800 for amps and we want around 7k-8k in wattage and we were thinking 4 of these http://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-Hfi2000d-Amplifier-Designed-Dissipation/dp/B003PSAQXA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1 or 2 of these http://infiniteelectronix.com/soundstreamdtr13400dd-tower3400wattrms5ohmclassdmonosubwooferamplifier.aspx or this http://www.amazon.com/Lanzar-OPTI8000D-Optidrive-Competition-Amplifier/dp/B0037YZLMS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311341969&sr=8-1 what do yall think for price and rms watts which one

well i was at a stop light with the system on about 1/4 the way up so not drawing much power. my volt meter was reading 13.8-14V constent. then when i took off from the stop light i cranked her back up to around 3/4 volume ( slowly increased volume) and i heard a loud squeel from under the hood and everything shut off ( HU,amp subs, ect. ) my volt meter was going nuttsssss. it went from 14V down to 12.1 in a milla second and eveything was powered off so nothing was drawing power besides the truck running. so now i have to find a replacement alt with hardly any cash... im F'd in the A big time now.

ive been looking at this a while back ago for a 15"btl and i found it everywhere, but i started to get intrested in it again but all web sites ive been to says its discountinued?? is there a particular reason why?? the only spot i found this amp on was wooferetc.com and dident say anything about being discountinued by the way im not really new to this board, i had to make a new account cuz i forgot my old password and username after i got my new computer..

Am using this amp currently with a 15" Fi Q with BP Power in a 4cu.ft box @ 30Hz and it sounds pretty good. What i need to know is, how precise is the clipping led on the bassboost knob? I set my gain the way that it was explained in the "How To" section of the forum but anytime i turn the volume to about "half" (20/40) the clipping light being to blink. The Q is wired to 2 ohms and the 2200 does 1300 watts at that rating whicn means a gain setting of 50.9 volts. To be on the safe side, i set my gain to 47.5 volts with a DMM at 3/4 volume with all my current setting. Am not sure of what am doing wrong. Any help would be great, thanks.

I need a nice sound quality amp that will get crazy loud and sound good doing it too. i am building a wall in my mountaineer. i was thinking a t8004 or t15004 by rockford. it does not have to be the best damn sound quality but something decent. any suggestions?

here is what i am trying to run: (2) dayton rs1800 7" mid bass, (2) cdt es-04 4" mid range and (2) cdt tw25s. i want to crossover the bass at 800 and below, mid range 800-4000hz and the tweets 4000-20000hz. any ideas of a crossover or company that has the capability to run at these points. i have been looking at the 3sixty and some of audiocontrol's products. my h/u is an alpine 7897 and the amps that i have are zx650.4 and a 100.2. they will be put in a towncar. any feedback is appreciated.

Hello folks My first time doing this so bare with me please. Now I have an old school ss granite 180.6 someone who actually knows these amps and what they can do lets talk ....

I'd like to get some feed back on a idea I had for a busbar I was going to use these since my battarys are top post https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pair-Universal-Brass-Car-Battery-Terminal-Clamp-Clips-Connector-Gold-Tone/178886665?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=571&adid=22222222228052157017&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=152604451174&wl4=pla-265686942388&wl5=9016899&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=111838760&wl11=online&wl12=178886665&wl13=&veh=sem Battary (5 g31 105ah per) https://m.samsclub.com/ip/duracell-agm-deep-cycle-marine-and-rv-battery-group-size-31dtmagm/prod3590232

I'm thinking about purchasing an Fi bl 15 or 12, and was wondering of anybody knows anything about the hifonics Brutus 1700, is it a good amp?

I plan on buying a HDC318 dual 2ohm with alum coil & upgraded spider pack and Im giving 4k to the sub The AQ puts out 3500rms @1ohm And the 4k2d puts out 4200rms @2ohms @ 12.8volts @ 5000+wrms @2ohms @ 13.8volts. So what amp would be better and more efficent between a aq3500d and a stetsom 4k2d?

I honestly never knew what a cap was until my friend told me he's selling his. What are the cons/pros of using one?