Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

what are some of the ugliest amps u've ever seen??were they ugly and dependable/underrated/efficient???or just plain ugly???my vote goes to this lil' gangsta!!!!!! Gangsta is here and it be bad-ass! The new Gangsta series from Crunch is aimed at the rap and hip-hop crowd and all those bad boyz who want to make a statement with their tunes: Hittin' hard and rollin' loud. Heat dissipation is one of the most important factors in amplifier design and Crunch

I was just wondering what are you guys's thoughs on the following brands of amps. US Acoustic Memphis Hifonics MA Audio Infinity And wich one would you trust the most.

I have a question, I was rolling down the highway when one of my friends in my backseat heard sparks shooting from the battery (which was when I looked back to see my battery posts red hot and melted. I have the Kinetik HC1800 in the back, and just a stock Interstate battery in the front along with the Big 3 in 1/0 wiring. What would be the cause of this major problem??? And yes I did stop in the middle of the road to fan out the smoke in the back :( PS Ill get pictures of the demolished battery if you would like

I'd like to get some feed back on a idea I had for a busbar I was going to use these since my battarys are top post https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pair-Universal-Brass-Car-Battery-Terminal-Clamp-Clips-Connector-Gold-Tone/178886665?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=571&adid=22222222228052157017&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=152604451174&wl4=pla-265686942388&wl5=9016899&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=111838760&wl11=online&wl12=178886665&wl13=&veh=sem Battary (5 g31 105ah per) https://m.samsclub.com/ip/duracell-agm-deep-cycle-marine-and-rv-battery-group-size-31dtmagm/prod3590232

Anyone have any first hand experience with ct sounds amplifiers? I'm considering their 7k watt amp but I been reading mixed reviews about them

i want a 2000 sundown but dont hav the money for that right now so these 2 amp is my next choise wat the diffence b/w the 2 which one is a better buy an why ill be running 2 SA-12 with 2 yellow top batt , stock atl with the big 3 thanks

Hi, All, I have a couple questions related to the internal subwoofer crossover(?) of the Alpine CDA-105. So far, Alpine Tech support and Crutchfield "advisors" have been unable to help -- they only know what's in the manual, which I am perfectly capable of reading myself! 1) Does the High Pass Filter function (60/80/100 Hz or off) affect only the front and rear line or speaker outputs, and NOT the subwoofer output? I would assume only the front and rear line or speaker outputs would be filtered, but, the manual does not clearly specify. (See page 14 of the manual.) http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM%20CDA-105_EN.pdf 2) Assuming my abov…

Hey guys, I posted this on 180db.com but have yet to get any responses. I just purchased a new Kinetik HC1800 and when I installed it my car was idling so rough that I was scared to continue with it. Let me explain the install first cuz it might have something to do with it. Had an Optima Redtop that was okay but I kept getting the dimming when pumping the tunes. I then bought a 1.2Farad RF capacitor and it was a little better but not by much. So instead of experimenting with upgrading wires yet I decided to purchase the HC1800. Well, cables were too short to reach the battery connectors even when turned 180 to be a little closer. So I went to the hardware store and purch…

What would be the most efficient way to reach 15k rms? Options are 2 Crossfire 8ks, 2 Ampere Audio 7.5s, or 2 Ampere Audio 8.0s VS 6 Scv 3ks, 6 Skar 2500s, or 6 American Bass 175.1 VFLs I will be powering 12 15s so I am looking to get around 13 to 15k rms. Cost wise 2 amps would be cheaper.

These r the 2 amps I been lookin at.I kno the rf is alil pricey but I can get it for alil more than the nendo they will b powering either 2 12" ssd or a pair of icons.what do u guys think

I am going to be getting some hertz 165xl components and am considering running them active with a nice sound processor. The problem is I don't know much about sound processors or running speakers active. what should I look for when buying a processor? is it worth it or should I just use the crossover that comes with the speakers?

I was wondering if I could safely run my 1800.1 at one ohm on a d3400 under the hood and a stock 117 amp alternator? I think it is pushing the envelope but input would be appreciated.

I just came across this company- Titanium Power They manufacturer amps that seem pretty intense but nobody sells them... Odd isn't it... Anyways, i'm trying to find out if i ever found a company that sells them... if they are any good... I ask because i like the TM8800.1D 8,800w @ 1ohm.

I read the sticky but I wanted to make sure I was correct, I have a alpine type r 10" dual 2 ohm sub and a kenwood KAC-9104D amp which is 500 watts rms @ 4 ohms. So is it; Voltage = sqrt(500 watts x 4 ohms) ?

I just got an L.A. Sound 4 Channel amplifier, model number S835, it was given to me by my uncle, I tested it with a 6x9 and a PC power supply and all the channels seem to work, it's supposedly 800 watts (max I'm assuming), has anyone ever heard of L.A. Sound or used any of their amplifiers? Were they any good?

Alright so I just got my Sundown SAX 1200 in the mail friday and I was going to wait for my Kinetik battery to get here ( this friday a week later ) before hooking it up at all.. But today I was just dying to hear it because its so hard to wait.. So I went ahead and hooked it up using the old wires that were in from my old crappy sony 1000w max 500wrms walmart amp, Well when I hooked it up and I put the gain at maybe 3/4 or a little under and was listening to it, I turned the little bass knob up and once it got to about half way up, anything above half on the bass knob didn't even make it louder, almost like it is at its limit.. but can it be at its limit at 3/4 on amp an…

im runnin out of preout voltage so i decided to buy a line driver, question is, does adding a line driver bypasses the gain of the amp? turning the gain all the way down wouldnt affect the line driver's settings?

I am in the process of helping a friend choose equipment for his install. The car is a 2005 Chrysler 300M. This will be an active setup with 3.5" highs mounted flat in the dash, and 8" midbasses mounted in the doors. He already has a JVC KWV20BT hu installed. This hu is lacking a bandpass filter and time alignment. Also has limited EQ ability's. I have suggested a stand alone digital sound processor as the owner does not want to purchase a different deck. He is fine with this. What DSP's are currently available that will allow for a active 2-way, has T/A, has a decent EQ, AND the ability of tuning from the drivers seat? As I don't keep up with all the current offer…

i added a yellow top in the rear today and did the big three. i wired the second batt in parallel + to + and - to - then ran my power to the amp off the rear positive. after i hooked everything up i noticed the the red batt light on the dash below the check engine like was glowing red and the emergency brake light stays on even when its off and these didn't do it before i installed everything... and on top of that my power steering when out (i know it doesnt have anything to do with the batts but just wanted to add that too...lol) any suggestions why the light would still be on?? Oh and my check engine light is on too but that was already on before i installed everyt…

here is what i am trying to run: (2) dayton rs1800 7" mid bass, (2) cdt es-04 4" mid range and (2) cdt tw25s. i want to crossover the bass at 800 and below, mid range 800-4000hz and the tweets 4000-20000hz. any ideas of a crossover or company that has the capability to run at these points. i have been looking at the 3sixty and some of audiocontrol's products. my h/u is an alpine 7897 and the amps that i have are zx650.4 and a 100.2. they will be put in a towncar. any feedback is appreciated.

well i was at a stop light with the system on about 1/4 the way up so not drawing much power. my volt meter was reading 13.8-14V constent. then when i took off from the stop light i cranked her back up to around 3/4 volume ( slowly increased volume) and i heard a loud squeel from under the hood and everything shut off ( HU,amp subs, ect. ) my volt meter was going nuttsssss. it went from 14V down to 12.1 in a milla second and eveything was powered off so nothing was drawing power besides the truck running. so now i have to find a replacement alt with hardly any cash... im F'd in the A big time now.

Just installed my 15" bl running off a bc2k. Stock alt, big 3, and a gold battery up front (don't remember the brand but it was the best I could get from advance) voltage is ok until I'm full tilt. I was looking at a cheaper Xs power battery but there still $150. Any other brands I should b looking into? Looking for a cheaper price but I don't want a shitty battery

I've been looking at the audio control epicenter. I would like to put some Iron Maiden, Judas Priest, Molly hatchet and so on in the cd player and actually have some bass. I know there are a few different bass restoration processors out there and I have a basic understanding of how they work. I've been searching this topic for better then a week now, but the info. I like to know doesn't seem to be easy to find. I see videos where a turn of the knob makes your subs start "doing work". Most of the topics I run across are either useless videos or "my subs are blown up". What I can't find is are they worth it? Yes there may be more output at the turn of a knob, but does it so…

when someone says there amp is 80% efficient at 2600 watts what exactly does that mean electrical system wise?

I need a nice sound quality amp that will get crazy loud and sound good doing it too. i am building a wall in my mountaineer. i was thinking a t8004 or t15004 by rockford. it does not have to be the best damn sound quality but something decent. any suggestions?