Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I was wondering what type of experience you had in buying a refurbished amp ? If the ratio is good ,mine as well go cop a refurbished item . I am particularly looking at an Sundown amp I know this topic has probably come up a bit . But what are people's experience in these . I want to know

Hey guys! I have a 2000 Avalon XLS that has the stock JBL system with it. (6 disc in-dash CD Changer, factory amp, 7 speaker system with IB in rear deck for 8" Subwoofer) I thought I could handle it for awhile but i'm contemplating replacing it with an aftermarket player. I've never worked on a system with this factory amp in it. Is this that big of a concern? Or what are the workarounds for this? If its to complicated, I'd just consider running a speaker leve to RCA converter and running a sub that way and sacrificing not upgrading the highs at all. Otherwise my plan was to run some 6.5" Koda components active with an IB sub in the rear deck for an SQ based install What …

i got a soundstream sa-164 a cpl months back its in mint cond. was it worth the $40? also what yr were these made also i recently traded a pair of 6x9 boxes for a brand new alpine mrd-m300 v12 i like how it tell u the volts, current ,an temp. i have it hooked to a pc power supply in my room and it will jump up to about 11.0 amps before it shuts off the power supply. my alt. in my car is bad so i havent tried it in there yet. now my ? is can anyone tell me the average amps it might pull at 14.4v? thanx in avance

I have a duralast gold in the front and a hc2000 in the rear but fear my electrical could be sooo much better if I got a better batt to replace the duralast in the front. Any suggestions for a good batt for the front under 200 bucks...

Well yesterday my dad was helping me run some wires in my car and decided to shake the hell out of my amp. When he did it ripped out all of my speaker wire connections and everything. So i reconnected everything and checked my connections everywhere but the amp is still not working. My dad is thinking its my RCA splitters. What i was wondering is there a way to test my RCA's with a DMM? Also would a violent shake make the amp quit working? It powers on theres just no output. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have my install next wednesday, and the problem is...I only have 1 d3100...and the place that I ordered the 2nd one called me and said that they shipped my 2nd one out...but then they called me back and said that they were sold out of the d3100, so they offered to substitute a d2700, my question is....can I install both of these batteries together for my xtra batteries in the back of my car...or is it wrong to connect 2 different model batteries together???????? damn im bummed right now Thanks everyone for the help Freddy

I have been checking on the site and I can't seem to find the DF for either the KX or the SX amplifers. anyone have any insight on this?

Well as soon as it powers up, it starts to oscillate on one frequency whether or not there is an instrument plugged into it or not. And it doesn't change when the instrument is played. Pretty simple set-up. Uses a simple linear power supply and an op amp as an output device. Could it be a bad input R? I had a similar thing happen with another amp when an input R was broken. Any other thoughts?

http://www.powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=8127-240&cat=2455 I was wondering if anyone has ever dealt with powerbastards and I was also wondering weather or not they make decent alternators.

So i am not to familiar with many brands so i would like a few options out there on some amps. What i am looking for is something that is cea rated at 13.8v. I don't need that much power i need 500watts either at 1ohm or 4ohm rated. What i am powering is a single sundown 10" e-series. Reason i need a amp rated at 13.8 is because its going in a 2012 corolla and toyota seems to regulate at a lower voltage which is around 13.8.

Alright, So I Just ordered a kinetik hc1400 gettin here monday which I am going to be putting up front in my car, and I already have a kinetik hc600 in my back near amp. Well I was thinking I would like to add a huge battery in the back to replace the 600.. I was thinking maybe a hc2400 just to have tons of juice and I figure you can never have too much... But then I was like crap Idk if my stock alt can handle charging batteries of this size ( a hc1400 up front + 2400 in back ) So i wanted to see if anyone could help with all you guys experience with tons of batts and alts. Right now I have a 97 honda civic hb, stock alt (65-70amp I believe..) I have the big 3 done alrea…

http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=84152 pioneer hu, keeps blowing fuses?

I have 3 of the old rockford 200x2 transana amps 2 of them i bought from a guy that swore they worked fllawlessly. Anyway I hooked them up to test them out, they paly fine until they have to play a low note, and then they clip i guess, until i turn the volume down a little and then they play fine. The other 200x2 I have doesnt do that at all I can play it all day long and it never does that. has anyone ever heard of such a problem?

Hi everyone and Happy New Year! I need a some help finding a H.O. alternator for my 2000 ford taurus. My amp is a zx1500.1 which i have running at 4ohm to my FiQ(upgrading to an xcon). I cant really crank it up without the amp going into protect when the bass hits... Does anyone know where i can find one? Seem like every site i go to has alts for other cars except mine.. If there is any info needed about my system ill answer as best as i can.

Hey i am thinking of buying a Kenwood 822 cd player. Its the 03 model and it folds out. Anyway i can get it for 50 bucks from a guy but when you put a cd in it says toxic error and it wont work. But you have to keep the screen from sliding all the way down and it will play the cd. I am askin yall for yalls opinion if i should buy it and wondering if yall know whats wrong with it and how much to fix it. Thanks

So I'm not new to car audio, but I'm new to the fine tuning. Years ago, I'd wire a sub to an amp and be done with it. Now, I've found that it's a little more technical than that. Here's my issue: I'm doing the 'gain setting,' and I'm not sure how to calculate the target voltage. I read somewhere that when you run a dual 4ohm sub, you have the double the target voltage, but I'm not sure if that's true or not. The target voltage of my current sub amp is 43.8@ 4ohms, 42@3ohms and 40@2ohms. I'm running an old JL 12W3v2, dual 4ohm sub. I have it wired in parallel, so I can bring it down to 2ohms. Does that mean that my target voltage is now 80? My brain is going to start spill…

im off this weekend, everytime im off for the weekend i tow my car to work..... when i got to work i unloaded my car.. and started playin with my audio.... i rolled my h/u volume up to 27... wanged for 30 seconds.. then my subs cut off and a nasty sound came from the comps..... pop my trunk my 3000d is in protection! my sax is fine.. but makin the nasty noise..... i DMM my amp power and check my ohms.... all is good..... i turn my car off flip my breaker into "off" restart my car... ugly noise remains.... flip my breaker back on for my saz... and it plays.... i roll my h/u back up and back into protection..... so the same thing over again but this time keep the …

Looked around for a bit and decided to go with this dual rectifier alt from alternatorparts.com . I ran it via specs of their website ( BTW i got the Quicktifier210 with a 220 amp denso alt). Guy told me it would do full output at 1200rpm( 120 i think at Idle). I upgraded the big three and ran it all with 1/0 Knu Koncept Kolossus wire. I am not running much, Double din JVC HU and a lightning audio 600.2 on a single W0 10. Gain is set to half. Optima Red top batt. My ordeal is, that the moment I put it in gear everything dims. And, if i have a few things on ( IE. air, turn sigs, headlights) things seem to get a bit worse. I took the gauge cluster out and cleaned everythi…

how big of an alternator's ? how many batteries , etc etc , would i need to run 2 Saz-3500d's 'safely' on my truck? they would be @ 1 ohm , just for daily..

this is gonna sound dumb, but I know very little about running active set ups. I'm not planning on it anytime soon, but just trying to be better informed. Google has been no help. My question is how are the rca's ran in a situation like this: any old HU with front, rear, and sub preouts a good 4 channel like a SAX100.4 or similar standard 2 way com set with mid and tweeter. A diagram would help. Thanks Also same thing but with an active 3-way set up I'm just very curious about the signal

Ok, I have never owned an amp w/o on-board fuses. I understand that fuses are necessary, but I am a bit confused about just how they are installed and WHY they are necessary. I'll probably purchase an amp kit that comes with an in-line fuse. I understand that this is to protect the battery in the event of...hell idk, I just know it's to keep shit from catching on fire. Now further down the line, the two amps I have have on-board fuses to protect themselves in the event that they should draw more current than they need/can handle. (Not quite sure about that either. I know that fuses usually pop when too much juice passes through them.) Now...I've been avoiding this by limi…

I'm running two atomic 5000.1's with 5 C&D Batteries (93ah maxrate ones) with 0awg all over and a 280a XS Power alternator. Now I can say straight off my power supply isnt adequate for all day booming but for short bursts (15 odd mins) its fine. Add to that I'm in the UK and our cars are tiny compared to your guys in the states so space is always an issue. Now my question is my batteries rest at 12.4-6 which seems very low to me ? I have a Ctek 25000 and was wondering should I give the recondition mode a try ? Any one got any general advice as hardly anyone runs these batteries in the UK.

i hav an install 2 weeks from tomorrow and was wonder what is a good amp for two alpine sws 12d2. i need find a recommended amp for them since i ran them on a crescendo bc2000d with gains half way. thanks to all that can recommend me one. budget for amp is 150 to 250 dollars tops 300

Ok so I have a 2005 mazda 3. After putting in a saz-1000D and a JL 300/2 (just ordered my sax100.4 which will replace the JL), my electrical couldn't handle it. So I decided to do the big 3 as it is the cheapest route. Well I just finished. And I think there was an improvement but not like I thought it would be. Now when my bass hits my voltage drops from 14.4 to 13.8 sometimes 12.8. This is with the car on and idling. And my lights still dim but not that bad as it used to. My car has a 90 amp alt. Upgraded to big 3 now. So my next step is getting a kinetik or XS battery for the rear to see if this makes an improvement. After I do the battery in the rear I plan on doing…

Hi, I am looking for a monoblock for Infinity kappa perfect 12d VQ - 400RMS dual 4 ohms voice coils. I practically looking for a class D monoblock with: ~500RMS @ 2 OHMS ~1000RMS @ 1 OHM (1 ohm stable) What would you advice? My budget is around 200$-300$ Thanks, Dan.