Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

well i ordered my clarion DXZ955MC from cardomain.com shipped out this afternoon after i ordered like 3:30 my time still had time to ship out all i can say excellent support, after i orderd they called me like 2 or 3 minutes after i ordered to confirm it, price match is awsome, got 270$ off and still got warranty, also for like 10$extra got 2 day shipping because last time it took 5 days to get my amp, and i wanted it by this weekend so will let everyone know soon how i like it, should install it saturday or sunday because i have to work thursday and football game friday night

i am currently running a power bass XAX-2160FD 2ch x 100rms at 4 ohms and a percision power BK1300.1D that is 1300rms at 1 ohm. i have just the stock alternator which i believe is 70a. and also the stock battery. if i was going to buy a single battery or possibly 2 batterys what size should i get and what brand?

i'm curious about a 2600 on a 18'' btl fully loaded dual 2ohm sub, do you guys think it's a decent amp or should i pick up something a little better?

I've tried searching around the forums for this but its a bit hard due to the size of all the words associated. So I plan on doing the BIG 3 in the next few days and I have my 0 Gauge wires, terminals,and fuse holder only thing left for me to do is get the fuse. On 02 Laredos the stock alternator has an output of 136 Amps, On other forums people recommended a 300 AMP Fuse but wouldn't this render the fuse useless as being such a high overall amp compared to the alt it wouldn't do its job and blow? But at the same time I'm questioning if I should even get a fuse as you can see in the picture below my battery and alternator are nearly touching. In short, What size fuse if a…

I'm runing two ia 21 dp's I am trying to figure out what amp to go with a incriminator audio 40.1 or a Memphis 4kw if any one can help with the pros and cons of both please and thank you

Hey guys! I have a 2000 Avalon XLS that has the stock JBL system with it. (6 disc in-dash CD Changer, factory amp, 7 speaker system with IB in rear deck for 8" Subwoofer) I thought I could handle it for awhile but i'm contemplating replacing it with an aftermarket player. I've never worked on a system with this factory amp in it. Is this that big of a concern? Or what are the workarounds for this? If its to complicated, I'd just consider running a speaker leve to RCA converter and running a sub that way and sacrificing not upgrading the highs at all. Otherwise my plan was to run some 6.5" Koda components active with an IB sub in the rear deck for an SQ based install What …

I just recently purchased a hifonics bxi1608d. It has 4 gauge terminals and is going to be pushing about 1600 watts. I am not sure if 4 gauge is large enough for the 1600 watts but, on the other hand, I am not sure if I would be able to squeeze the 2 gauge into the 4 gauge terminals. Any suggestions?

Well I've decided on getting an XS D3400 for a second battery in the back of my escape. I currently have 4 gauge going back there, would that be enough or should I go for 0 gauge? I could always upgrade the wire down the road if I have to, but for now I'm only running 1500 watts.

Soon I will be getting a 12" AudioQue HDC3 (Copper Coils) and was wanting to finally upgrade my Front Stage Mids & Highs. This is the first time I dealt with Component Systems and 2-Channel Amps so some of these questions might sound stupid. I am considering RE Audio 6.5 Components or Rockford Fosgate T162s and they both are 4 Ohm. Does this mean that after you connect mid & highs to crossover then crossover to amp, then will the final impedance to the amp be 4 ohms? Or is there a way to wire component systems in parallel to get a 2 ohm load? One more question. Is each channel kinda like a different amp? For example, If I have a 4 Channel amp can I have 2 channe…

okay heres what i got, im lookin for a 4 channel amp for my friend 200 spending limit. choices so far are: Hifonics Zeus ZX6400 (with the best price offer) http://www.thezeb.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=101746 MA Audio HK598 http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/3780 let me know how htey are and any other reccomendations you might have

http://www.powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=8127-240&cat=2455 I was wondering if anyone has ever dealt with powerbastards and I was also wondering weather or not they make decent alternators.

I recently installed an Eclipse CD-8445. It's been great, however I have not had much success using E-ISERV. I have not been able to transfer AreaShot files or Audio settings to my HU via CD or Memorystick. I have been able to transfer Motion Picture files however. Whenever I try to transfer AreaShot or Audio settings, I receive a "file err" message. I've tried upgrading the firmware...but that has never been done successfully either. Any help is appreciated.

Anybody using/have used this xover? Pros, cons, noise issues? As a now I'm running an Audio Control DQXS to cross my bass mids and tweets. My plan is to add the HK3X into the mix to bandpass the midbass and continue to let the DQXS handle the subs midrange and tweets.

well guys i just purchase a used amp kicker amp by the way. i realize on the birth sheet it says 2800 rms its a kicker KX2500.1 but it has a little sticker on the name of it and i can see in the back it says kx600.1 but thats my question colud kicker miss up on paper and just a sticker to it or the one who sold it to me made a copy and just stick a paper saying kx2500.1. so how can a meassure if its true? EDGAR

Well, My Kenwood Fried Itself. I'll Never Buy One Of Those Again. So, I Ask You, The SSA Audio Forum Public, For Near $250 Or Under, What Is The Best Possible HU For My Setup. I Like Clarity, But I Like Loud. The Components In My Sig Pretty Much Explain That. My Preferred Brand Is Eclipse But I'm Open To Others.

So I was browsing the classified looking at all the junk that people wanted a ton for when I came across this. Even better was what I paid. Just wish I had a use for it, its been sitting in a closet for years I was told, its got some scratches but its a huge beautiful amp. Please bear with me as I have never posted pics on a forum. Album: Codesters audio stuff 1 images 0 comments

I had it for about 2 years now, I updated the software for it last week. Now it's a pain in the **s. I thought everything was fine, been doing good, now tonight it want connect through my Tungsten E2. It says i need the 3sixty.1 software to connect. My 3sixty.2 thinks it's a .1 now all of a sudden. I have reset everything, Uninstalled and re-installed the software to have the same thing come up. It thinks its a .1 for some reason. Any help well be appreciated.

IM TRYIN TO REPAIR MY 1000 WATT CRUNCH AMP AND I CANT FIND A PIC OF THE INSIDE GUTS OF THIS DAMN THING IVE LOOKED EVERY WHERE SO ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT A FEW OF THE DIODS I THONK THERE CALLED FRIED SO I NEED TO REPAIR IF ITS POSSABLE IM NEW TO ALL THIS SO I WOULD LIKE SOME IMPUT THANK YOU OR MAYBE A SCHMATIC ON THIS THING WOULD KICK ASS

I'm running two atomic 5000.1's with 5 C&D Batteries (93ah maxrate ones) with 0awg all over and a 280a XS Power alternator. Now I can say straight off my power supply isnt adequate for all day booming but for short bursts (15 odd mins) its fine. Add to that I'm in the UK and our cars are tiny compared to your guys in the states so space is always an issue. Now my question is my batteries rest at 12.4-6 which seems very low to me ? I have a Ctek 25000 and was wondering should I give the recondition mode a try ? Any one got any general advice as hardly anyone runs these batteries in the UK.

I sold my amp (thanks, ulrisa) so I'm in the market for a new one to power my 10" Dcon. For my budget I've narrowed it down to these two: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/compare_items.php?sort_order=%2Fviewcat.php%3Ff_72%3D14%26manufacturer_id%3D63%26category_id%3D26%26sort_order%3Dbest_match&product_id%5B%5D=23185&product_id%5B%5D=23872&button=Compare Does anyone here have any experience with Soundstream amps? I don't have any experience with their products, except for the SPL 12's about 10 years ago (they belonged to a friend). I obviously don't know much about the technical stuff, so is the $70+ dollar difference between these two worth it (other than the…

I have a guy that has a brand new in box Power Acoustik A1800DB amp, and he's wanting to trade it for my used Memphis 16-ST1000D. A 1800 watt for a 1000 watt.. I know PA isn't as quality of a brand as Memphis.. but it seems like a good amp. Any suggestions of whether or not I should follow through?

I am getting ready to place an order from Knu for my wiring. I just want to make sure I get what I need the first time and it's the right stuff. First of all...do I need one or two runs of 1/0g power wire for my two amps? The mono block will likely be an AQ1200d at 2 ohm (870w RMS) and the other amp for my mids/highs will be no more then 150w x 2 @ 4ohms. So if a single run is sufficient, once I get the wire to the amps and I go to split...what size wire should go to the AQ amp? I am just wondering because I didn't see a dist. block on Knu's site that allows for a 1/0g wire to be split into 2 or more 1/0g wires for multiple amps to be ran with that size wire. I figure 4g …

how big of an alternator's ? how many batteries , etc etc , would i need to run 2 Saz-3500d's 'safely' on my truck? they would be @ 1 ohm , just for daily..

Hey I just ordered one one these little guys dual voice coil http://www.tcsounds.com/forums/index.php?s...c=1013&st=0 I haven't had to buy an amp in a long time and dont know whats the good budget amp for now adays. I've thought about the Alpine MRD-M1005, the Hifonics ZXi1006 and even the new Phoenix Gold RSd1200.1. Whats probably my best bet from those? They can all be found for around $300, which is the price I'd like to stay at. Any other recomendations would be awesome too. Thanks to all who can help

So I'm not new to car audio, but I'm new to the fine tuning. Years ago, I'd wire a sub to an amp and be done with it. Now, I've found that it's a little more technical than that. Here's my issue: I'm doing the 'gain setting,' and I'm not sure how to calculate the target voltage. I read somewhere that when you run a dual 4ohm sub, you have the double the target voltage, but I'm not sure if that's true or not. The target voltage of my current sub amp is 43.8@ 4ohms, 42@3ohms and 40@2ohms. I'm running an old JL 12W3v2, dual 4ohm sub. I have it wired in parallel, so I can bring it down to 2ohms. Does that mean that my target voltage is now 80? My brain is going to start spill…