Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

how big of an alternator's ? how many batteries , etc etc , would i need to run 2 Saz-3500d's 'safely' on my truck? they would be @ 1 ohm , just for daily..

So I'm not new to car audio, but I'm new to the fine tuning. Years ago, I'd wire a sub to an amp and be done with it. Now, I've found that it's a little more technical than that. Here's my issue: I'm doing the 'gain setting,' and I'm not sure how to calculate the target voltage. I read somewhere that when you run a dual 4ohm sub, you have the double the target voltage, but I'm not sure if that's true or not. The target voltage of my current sub amp is 43.8@ 4ohms, 42@3ohms and 40@2ohms. I'm running an old JL 12W3v2, dual 4ohm sub. I have it wired in parallel, so I can bring it down to 2ohms. Does that mean that my target voltage is now 80? My brain is going to start spill…

Is there a preferred method in setting multiple gains/levels??? Stuff like: 1. Radio's subwoofer, line-out-converter, volume controls 2. Sound processor input/output/levels 3. Amplifiers' gain

maaaybe 1000w...250-325 price range if possible.

Ok, right now my system is still kinda up in the air, but I know I will either be running a sundown 3k or a RF 4k amp and a little amp or two for mids/highs. The vehicle is the 4.3L V8 F150 (2008). I am pretty sure the stock alt puts out 110 amps. I know I need a couple good batteries for under the hood and in the back. BUT, about what size alt should I look for roughly and what brand. I have a local stinger dealer that sells a 220 amp alt for 700, but not to sure how good that is or not. any input would be great.

Can someone tell me a little about the total harmonic distortion value on amps as far as what the max acceptable level should be & what I should look for on one? I have seen most mid range amps at around 0.02 to 0.05. Is this something I need to concern myself with or is the difference going to so little I won't even notice? Thanks

i was gonna put this in the for sale/wanted section but i didnt know how well that would go over with mods. so im looking to upgrade to a good headunit. i just traded the pioneer i had it wasnt anything special just plain jane with sub outputs. im wanting one with a motorized face and graphics. i dont really care if it has usb or aux in as i dont ever use them. i used to have a deh-p680mp that i absolutely loved. im not really interested in the newest "look" unless its the style with the bigger volume knob like a 6000ub. im also open to a possible kenwood or jvc arsenal if it looks good and the price is right so if anyone has any head units collecting dust let me know…

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5724713769&rd=1 Supossed to be the chit, they are only pre-amp decks.

I'm ready to tackle the electrical system of my 2011 Malibu. Under the hood battery is a weird group 75 battery. I'm either going to try and modify for a slightly larger battery or just spend the ~$200 die hard platinum that will fit as is. Thing is I'm trying to do this on a slight budget and its gonna be cheaper to use different brand batteries. Just going to put 1 in the trunk. I plan to only use sealed AGM style batts just possibly different brands and sizes.. Any trouble I can avoid here?

Aight i just pick this kenwood kac-9104D off my friend for free and i hooked it up in my car and it goes straight into protection mode with out any subs hooked up any thoughts on what i could be? ImageShack Album - 5 images

Maybe I can get some help here. I'm looking for amplifier choices, I'll be getting 4 RL-P 15's, probably being put into a smallish ported box. I kinda want to keep amplifier cost below 800$ if possible. I'm at a bit of a loss, on what to get. There are too many choices! I've considered getting a Hifonic Titan series TX1000 per sub. But maybe two stronger amps would be better. My truck has two yellow tops, and a mean green alternator. So any recomendations would be nice.

just wondering what i need to set my gains at voltage wise with my ac meter for this amp. is it around 80 volts? thanks for any help

I just sold my kenwood mp5035 and am looking for a new one. i really want one with a tilting motorized faceplate. and that could hook up to my ipod and is HD. i have been looking at the http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...amp;I=099CD3100 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...amp;I=099CD4000 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...mp;I=113KDCX891 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...amp;I=099CD7000 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...amp;I=099CD5100 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...mp;I=113KDCX991 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A:IT&ih=002 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A:IT&ih=002 http:/…

Looked around for a bit and decided to go with this dual rectifier alt from alternatorparts.com . I ran it via specs of their website ( BTW i got the Quicktifier210 with a 220 amp denso alt). Guy told me it would do full output at 1200rpm( 120 i think at Idle). I upgraded the big three and ran it all with 1/0 Knu Koncept Kolossus wire. I am not running much, Double din JVC HU and a lightning audio 600.2 on a single W0 10. Gain is set to half. Optima Red top batt. My ordeal is, that the moment I put it in gear everything dims. And, if i have a few things on ( IE. air, turn sigs, headlights) things seem to get a bit worse. I took the gauge cluster out and cleaned everythi…

Hey I notice Ppl using 2 2/0 for There ground Could you explain to me why so much for the ground and where you would put yours at on your ground because I was planning on using 4 gauge on Body (A) > Head (B) > Coil Pack © > Battery Negative (D) > Body (E) And was going to use 0 gauge for battery negative - body But why would you use so big wire on the ground? I was told the car for the ground needs some sort or resistance for the computer to know, but 2/0 is bigger then 0 gauge. If i decided to do 0 gauge will I be ok you think Here is a site that does my old car grounding its similar to the same identical to my new car for what I am about to do. http://www.s…

Hey all, I have a question about routing power in the car for mobile video... I have 6 items that need to be powered on the roof: 3 15" flip-down monitors, 2 sun visor monitors, and a video signal booster. Each piece of equipment has #18 gauge power/ground leads and they are fused with very thin glass fuses, so I'm assuming they draw very little amperage (none of the equipment lists actual numbers and Google searches proved useless) so I'm assuming total load I'm looking at under 15 amps or so. I have some spare 9ga wire I could run from the battery up to the headliner for power (it might be overkill but the next smallest wire I have is 18ga and I'm trying to work with w…

I just recieved my Fi Q 1 ohm speakers today and just freakin fried my 1 ohm stable mtx amp because the speakers are running at around .75 ohms. what amp can I use for these and where can i find it . any suggestions would be appreciated

I currently have my Orion 2500d mounted on the top flat. I pan on putting the 18" on top facing up, and the amp on the side. Will it be ok as far as heating is concered?

First of all I want to apologize for another which amp type question...there are a lot of them here but don't have the info I need. I'm going to be running 2 Ascendant Audio Avalance 12" subs (dual 2ohm - 800watts RMS each) and am wondering if a Sundown 2000d will be enough for them? I used to run these way back when they first came out with a US AMPS USA-2000 (2k x1 @ 2 ohms) and was happy with the setup but the class A/B of the amp was a huge strain on my already beefed up electrical system. Also, if there is another quality amp out there that you would recommend other than the Sundown let me know. I've been out of the game for a long time! Thanks!

Hey guys. bought myself a new toy as some of you may know. now that its here and i have a little bit of time i want to install it but i havent done anything like it before so i have a few questions to shoot at u guys. all my speakers are single 4ohm and i will be wiring the amp at 2 ohms. she gives out 260rms per channel according to the birth sheet. Some of my new equipment: Amp wiring kit: KnuKonceptz complete ofc 4g 4-channel kit http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4-4 Amp: Rockford Fosgate T400-2 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8893_Rockford-Fosgate-Power-T400-2.html?SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=18989027&SearchClickout%5BIgnore%5D=1…

I have it wired but it doesn't turn off when I turn the car off because its directly hooked up to the battery. I'm thinking I can splice into my remote turn on for the amp but I won't get a voltage reading from that will i? I need a way to get the best voltage reading possible and for the meter to shut off when the car is turned off... helpppppppppppppppppppp

ok i think i got it. check out the diagram, and tell me if its right. i heard that alot of amps will output a low freq or pop for a second when you turn the amp on, and to use a cap on each channel to not allow that freq. to get to my tweeters. the nominal load of each channel after i wire it up will be 1.5 ohm. so according to WinSD or whatever it is, it say that a 68uF 100V cap (with the 1.5 ohm load) will not let any freq under 1000ish Hz pass through that cap. is that right? i also have the Coustic XM6 (just ordered) which is 18dB per octave, and then the HPF on my amp is 12dB per octave, does that make my overall slope for the tweets 30dB? plus does the cap still add…

Hi I have (2) hifonics brz1200 each on its own DD 2512c (D2) @ 1ohm I want around 1/3 more power as i think the subs can handle it What do you think about bridging those two amps? What kind of ohm load would i see? What would be the power benefits? What would be the dangers? If the risk is too high to try then I wont, because these amps are pretty much sold

Ok, a guy at my trade school let his cousin use his JL A1400 amp, suposedly the cousin sprayed WD40 in the ground connection, why i do not know, and now he says the protect light comes on, i kow hes not the smartest fella and might be hooking it up wrong since he has it back now, he brought it to trade school looked at it, it was fine so he brought it back and it worked, then protect went on again, now hes getting his cousin to buy him a new amp, and he wants to get rid of this one, he brought it for me to look at but neither me nor my teacher can find anything wrong with it, and he wants to sell it for $75, what do yall think?

I'm looking at upgrading the system in my G35...I've gotten almost everything figured out except the LOC. The stock HU puts out differential balanced signals and I need to convert them for my amp (planning on buying the Boss REV-665). I'm on a budget so I can't replace my HU (plus, the trim conversion kit costs over $300). I need it for 3 channels (fronts and a sub).. so a 4 channel one would work. I've heard the David Navone ones are good (NE-774V) but am concerned with things like this. Are they the best ones compared to just any LOC or should I look at something else? Ideally, I'd like to get the Audiocontrol LC6i/7 but that's out of my budget. Thanks.