Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Where do you guys get your wiring from? I was thinking of getting my RCAs from KnuKnoceptz (Krystal series). I've read about getting power wire from WeldingSupply.com. But this is from posts from a year or more ago. Just curious where everyone else goes.

I was wondering if it was possible to wire my 4 ohm subwoofer to a bridged 4 ohm - just need a diagram on how to wire it. thanks in advance. I have a alpine type-r 12" 4 ohm (SWR-1242D) and a rockford fosgate P8002 amp - 800W @bridged 4 ohm -John

Well guys, i have a alpine 7995... i need a parametric Eq... but i see in ebay the eclipse 8455... this hu have a very good parametriq eq... change the HU or buy a very good EQ?

As the title say's i am going to pick up a alpine head unit.I took apart the dash in the car as i have never installed a radio before i was lookin to see what i was gettting into.Looks like it is going to be pretty easy exept for the end result.The molding i have now is for the stock radio with knobs , i would like to keep it.Any ideas on how i can mod the current set up to work with the new set up or buy some kind of aftermarket piece that looks the same?Pictures below. 1. 3.

Has anybody heard of using a Stetsom 7KD for daily use? What kind of power is it really capable of putting out?

I have a 2008 trailblazer with stock electrical. I have the t400-4 and a t1000-1bd. Will I be alright with the big 3 and a new battery, like an optima redtop (yellow top wont go in my car) or do you guys know of any better batteries for about the same price (under $200)? Also, where can i get 0 gauge battery cables for the big 3?

Hey do any of you have a good link to the RMS specs for the VFL Comp 2K Amp listed on the SSA site. I just got one and it's a big ol beast of a hunk of metal but the booklet that came with it is one of those one size fits all VFL Amps booklet so it shows all kinds of wiring options but zero in the way of specs and I'm trying to set my gains on my amps without the help of an oscope (believe me I'm ordering one this week) anyway until I can do this I still need those specs so I feel safe.. not that I can't hear distortion but as much as I want to check what's going on and I'm just OCD like this. Thank you! Continue with what you were doing.

Hey all. I have a 12" Fi BL wired like this: My question is that I bought 8AWG to wire the thing, problem is, the terminals only accept about 12AWG. So I trimmed about 1/2 or more the wires at the stripped ends, making it 16AWG, and I used 12AWG to wire the + --> + and - --> - and cut the ends the same way.. Should I be concerned, or what would have been a better option? Those damn holes are so small. =[ PS: twisted speaker wire is a PITA to strip.

i am looking at getting a jbl 1200 watt amp, i found 1 on sounddomain, but have not found much else. The one i found on SD was the powervalve BP, i found one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5700553298&rd=1 which would be better suited for 2 adire shiva 12's in a ported box

Is this ok or a no-no? I just added 4 gauge wire in addition to the factory wire(wired it to the same spot and sanded paint off the ground) and replaced the factory battery terminal blocks with stinger ones.

just like my title says, does anyone know where i can get the remote gain for my aq3500? should i contact aq or what?? Thanks!

I have 2 Hifonics BXI2607's and I noticed earlier today while listening to my system that one of the amps is making a rattling, buzzing noise when the bass hits. It only does it on the higher frequencies which do not hit that hard, the lower frequencies which are louder and hit harder the amp does not make any noise. The noise is coming from the RCA area of the amp. It is not the amp that I have running to the HU, it is the amp that I used a jumper RCA to hook up. I noticed that the amp does not make the noise until I get the volume up to 20/35 on the HU and gets louder as I increase the volume. I did not even notice it until I was in the back close to the amp, I thought …

im looking to buy 2 new batteries for the back of my truck. ill be runnin a 225 amp alt with the IA40.1 and a 4 channel alpine 4x90w.. im leanin toward the powermaster d2400's.. the 2 other batteries on my list would be the Xstatic Batcap model 2000 or the Deka Intimidator Battery - 9A31 opinions please..?

I have never wired miltiple amps to one sub, so please bear with me. I have four JL Slash 1000/1v2's and two DP 21" 2 ohm dvc's. My question is; how do I wire two amps to each sub? Someone suggested that I wire each amp to each voice coil. As in wire one amp to one of the terminals on one sub, and another amp to the other on the same sub. Is this correct?

Hey I was wondering what good cheaper amps (around 300) would run two SSD 10s with copper coils. I have two in the mail right. Do I need to give each 800 watts to be decently loud? Also wondering if will likely need to do any changes to my electrical system. I've tried to see what amperage my alternator puts out but cant find info, so if you know what an '06 Rav4 without tow package does that would help a lot. Otherwise I think I'm gonna call the dealer. Thanks for any help!

I'm trying to bring the shine back to my old SS class a amps. I've started on a few fins using eagle one nevr-dull. It comes out nice but takes forever to clean up. Anyone here have a good suggestions for cleaning up aluminum?

This amp is cutting off on me at high and when I turn it down for a few seconds it come back on. Could this be from a short on one of the speakers lead. The amp is not hot at all and I notice that it just started doing this about a week ago. It has a status light that is blinking but the manual does not explain what blinking sequence this applies to code 11-thermal protection, code 12-short protection, code 13-repeated short & code 14-over volt protection.

I'm looking at upgrading the system in my G35...I've gotten almost everything figured out except the LOC. The stock HU puts out differential balanced signals and I need to convert them for my amp (planning on buying the Boss REV-665). I'm on a budget so I can't replace my HU (plus, the trim conversion kit costs over $300). I need it for 3 channels (fronts and a sub).. so a 4 channel one would work. I've heard the David Navone ones are good (NE-774V) but am concerned with things like this. Are they the best ones compared to just any LOC or should I look at something else? Ideally, I'd like to get the Audiocontrol LC6i/7 but that's out of my budget. Thanks.

a buddy of mine told me to add the 2 i never used none of them he said that they will help my 15's hit harder

Please correct me if I'm wrong. In an instance where a persons deck only allows you to turn up the sub only soo much but you want it louder, in order to make it louder, rather than turning your amps gain up excessively damaging your subs you'd use a line driver. Correct?

I tried searching for this but couldn't find anything on it. I have a DieHard G34M and they have 2 terminals on the top Is there any difference between these 2 terminals?

Which amp is better and why

when running 2 dual 4 ohm woofers to a 1 ohm load, do you have to connect the wires that go to the amp both to the same woofer? or can you put the positive on one speaker and the negative on the other?

http://mobile.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=...=133&page=2 i think it would be cool to have this in my car, and on top of that i like the GIGA mp3 multi ill proly run a line driver with it.

anyone have any luck switching to a smaller alternator pulley? Were there any noticeable gains in output?