Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

ok tell me if this is right a 1000wrms sub @ 1ohm on a saz1500 the gain should read 31.6 on the dmm. ok other then the gain what should i set the subsonic and my lpf at? the box its in is 3.5ft^3 tuned at 40 hz. i really need this help b4 my sub gets murdered thanx in advance to whoever helps me

what is a good head unit (preferably JVC or Alpine) that will not skip because of the bass? i have a alpine cda7897 now and i cant turn my music up without the cd skipping repeatedly. really wouldnt want to spend more than 400 for a h/u. its going to a lincoln towncar and i am running a zx2500.1, zx650.4 and (2) 15" btl's

lol so my friend is debatin whether to keep his mtx thunder 1200 or sell it and either get 2 audioque 1200's he wants to know which amp is better? mtx thunder 1200 or audioque 1200 yall tell me and will the audioque fit 0 guage wire?

Well i just installed all my equipment in my 4runner. I received my speakers today and hooked everthing up...4 15 ssd w/copper coils and bp power option...and im running 2 MA HK802SX amps.......Well the system hits pretty good, but i think it should or can do more....My voltage is dropping down to 10.2 volts at worst. Im loosing power like crazy....Even with multiple grounds and hots distributed everywhere my grounds are getting warm!!!!!<---not good i know.....I have the following installed right now -165 Amp Alternator -Kinetik HC1800 Under Hood -Optima Blue Top in the rear with amps (temp) I know this is not enough juice, but i have the optima sold and i was going t…

Does anyone have any idea what the saz-3500d would put out watt wise at 1.33ohm while being fed 12v?

Ok, so I have a yellow top group 34 up front right now in my suv. I am upgrading my stereo system and will be running a Sundown Saz 3000d a JL audio 500/5 and a JL e4300. I will be using a mechman 275 amp alt and I need help deciding what to do for the batteries. Can I hook up the optima to a xs power d3100 and expect to see good results? or a d3400 up front to a xs power d3100 in the back. Is it alright to hook up batteries that are of different classes? I can't fit a 31 series up front but it looks like a good battery for the back. Last but not least I have seen good deals on a optima yellow top d31t. Would that be a good option to hook up to the optima I have now? Woul…

so i fried something in the amp, i think they are called the output transistors. i have pics if any one is intersted i can send a pm. here's the story: so tonight, i am finally exited to get my subs into the car and start wangin. let me tell you what happened before tonight though. about a week or so ago, i already had my box completed (not finished though) me and my bro went out to test it with the nine.1. we tried it facing up first and it was working fine, then we decided to test it facing the rear and it still no problems. then I wanted to try facing up one more time. this time, I heard something pop as soon as I turned it on and then all four 30 amps blew. one more t…

I have a guy that has a brand new in box Power Acoustik A1800DB amp, and he's wanting to trade it for my used Memphis 16-ST1000D. A 1800 watt for a 1000 watt.. I know PA isn't as quality of a brand as Memphis.. but it seems like a good amp. Any suggestions of whether or not I should follow through?

i know this sounds like a newbie question but i wanted to get the right answer. okay, so i have a rf t1000-1bd. it says that the amp is wired in parallel inside the amp. does this mean i can put a wire from each terminal on my woofer to each one of the 4 outputs and it will automatically take my dual 2 down to a 1 ohm load internally?. basically i wanna bump up the wire size going to my woofer because im used to the jumper and twist technique, but if i can get a fatter 10 gauge wire i'd like to do that. so basically instead of me doing the parallel wiring and only 2 wires coming from my sub, i'll have 2 wires from each voice coil, 4 wires going to my amp and the amp will …

Hi, I'm sort of new to this, I searched the topic but didn't find what I was looking for so please be patient. I've been away from car audio for 7 or so years, a lot has changed and I would like to learn. I'm in the infancy of planning my stereo, I'm planning on running ~1500-2000watts RMS, the vehicle in question is a 1994 3/4 ton Suburban with a 454, 105 amp (I believe) alternator. I definitely plan to upgrade the battery and my ground and use 0 gauge wiring, what exactly do I look for in a battery and at my power levels would it be wise to run a second battery? Furthermore, how exactly does one wire a second battery? Should I upgrade my alternator as well? Or if it was…

can a HO alt still work but get damaged and charge at a lower voltage, around 13.8V when it used to charge around 14.8V?

I'm going to install two amps one is mono and the other is a 4 channel for my mids and highs. I already have the power, ground, and rem wire, but the only thing is how can i get two rca's if my headunit only has one connection?

Anyone ever used one? Thoughts? I'm thinking about picking up a couple, for future uses.

i'm getting a subs for it and i'm getting 2 rlp12" subs and i was looking into getting a lanzar max pro 2400 watt amp or should i look into getting a differnt one if not whats a good amp will the speakers handle a 2400 amp could they handle a 4000 what amp i dont know much about this stuff so i need help and sealed or ported box i got plenty of money

Hi there. I'm trying to figure out the safest, most cost-effective way to wire two amps, particularly, the remote-turn-on wires. I have seen a lot of stuff saying just wire both wires to the H-U remote turn on, while others say it can burn out the H-U. I'll be using 2 300w RMS amps if it makes any difference...

i bought this deck yesterday and it comes with the demo mode on, in the insructions it says to push and hold the volume knob in for 2 seconds and it will switch it from on to off, and off to on depending on what its already in, but when i do this the mode is still on, can anyone help me? it would be greatly appreciated

any of you guys have any experiance,opinions on this amp. http://www.woofersetc.com/p7750/DTR11700D-...s-Amplifier.htm ive been a fan of Soundstream amps(ive had the PIC 1.1700d and loved it)and really like the way these look.plus i found it on ebay for less than 300 shipped. i plan on running it on a single Fi SSD 18. so feel free to post up you opinions/thoughts.

ok I have 1994 gmc serria 2 wheel drive I need to know if I can fit a 2 din dvd player in there. It already ghas a cd player in it I just need to knwo if I can fut a 2 din player in it.

Hi I have (2) hifonics brz1200 each on its own DD 2512c (D2) @ 1ohm I want around 1/3 more power as i think the subs can handle it What do you think about bridging those two amps? What kind of ohm load would i see? What would be the power benefits? What would be the dangers? If the risk is too high to try then I wont, because these amps are pretty much sold

Im debating on purchasing either the AQ2200D or the IA 20.1 amp to run a pair of ICON 10s. Which amp would you recommend? Which is better?

hey guyz..... got a question. i had planned on running 4 awg from the battery terminal down to the fuse and then on the other end of the fuse continue with 4 awg and then put a distribution block. then run 4 awg to the other amps from the block. is this ok? or no? running 4 amps, all the same gauge wire

Hello, I am wanting to upgrade my OEM alternator before I blow it . I am looking at an Iraggi 200 amp for $399 or 220 amp for $439. I dont mind the extra $40 so I am thinking 220 amp. Mechman is also an option as many people in my area give good reviews. The only downside is they dont make one for my car. If they did I wouldnt be writing this. Currently I have a 2009 Toyota yaris 4 door sedan. 1 JL Audio 1000/1 powering 1 15" Fi BL Loaded. Also 1 600 x 4 amp for mids and highs. I have another JL 1000/1 sitting in my closet begging me for some action. I want to do the alt. upgrade first then Big 3 then a yellow top or kinetik or something. ( Im upgrading grounds imm…

Right now i have a crunch pzi 1500.1 amp powering these two subs and i know it is putting out less than 1000w rms so these subs arent even being powered 1/2 way but they are still very loud(i have a 96 saturn 2 door and a 3cuft box tuned to 33 hz) i was just wondering what amp would be good to run these with without getting a HO alternator. I dont need an amp that is going to push these to there max i just want one with more quality than the crunch and that wont overheat. The crunch is alright but tends to get very very hot.

I recently installed an Eclipse CD-8445. It's been great, however I have not had much success using E-ISERV. I have not been able to transfer AreaShot files or Audio settings to my HU via CD or Memorystick. I have been able to transfer Motion Picture files however. Whenever I try to transfer AreaShot or Audio settings, I receive a "file err" message. I've tried upgrading the firmware...but that has never been done successfully either. Any help is appreciated.

Heres the deal. Ive got a 08 explorer and in this thing is a huge ass nav screen. I want an aftermarket HU (pioneer type) obvioulsy for the EQ options, . I thought of tearing out the nav screen and replacing it with the aftermarket, but, most pioneers (moderately priced up 500$) are single din. Which in turn would leave me with an ass ton of space. Two questions/two scenarios. 1.) If i were to rip out the nav screen is there anything i could get to take up the extra space. Ive looked for adapters and such, but, nothin.2.) If i were to keep the nav screen in and mount my HU somewhere else, how would i wire them so both are functioning? I would like them functioning conside…