Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

which would you suggest 2 x american bass vfl 450.1 or 2 x audioque AQ2200 or 1 x audioque AQ3500

I have a friend running a 300w PowerBass amp to a 10" powerbass sub in his single cab Ford Ranger. He called me the other day and said he was driving around town "bumping" and his sub randomly quit working. This kid knows little to nothing about car audio, so he calls me with his problems. I went and looked at his amp and sub too see if I could figure anything out. The sub felt warm, and the amp was REALLY hot. When I played music through the system, at a very low volume, (vol 1-3), sound came out fine.. but when it got above that, the protect light came on on the amp, and would burp random thumps (not from the music) about every 3-5 seconds. With the key turned to "On", …

Anyone have a good place to buy 4/0 Power Wire?

i was thinking of adding a mp3 player to my car, i was either thinking ipod mini or creative zen micro, im leaaning toward zen micro now and getting that napster to go and just fill it up with songs, which is hard to beat for getting most any song on there(unless anyone has used it and can say different) although i would like an ipod because of the adapter that will show what song is playing and i can hide the ipod and just use cd player, but no upload of songs with it , gotta buy them old fashion way or used p2p but i was planing on getting this http://www.crutchfield.com/S-F46N3x...asp?I=130CDRB10 for the zen or this for ipod http://www.crutchfield.com/S-F46N3x...sp?I=1…

Right now i have a crunch pzi 1500.1 amp powering these two subs and i know it is putting out less than 1000w rms so these subs arent even being powered 1/2 way but they are still very loud(i have a 96 saturn 2 door and a 3cuft box tuned to 33 hz) i was just wondering what amp would be good to run these with without getting a HO alternator. I dont need an amp that is going to push these to there max i just want one with more quality than the crunch and that wont overheat. The crunch is alright but tends to get very very hot.

Ok my first post here guys, I sold my MTX terminator's i know haha really cheap 12's with a crappy amp but to me they honestly weren't that bad although i haven't heard anything other than that and kicker comps. i'm just now starting to learn about car audio. right now i have alpine cda-105 HU alpine type r coaxial 6x8s up front alpine type r coaxial 6x9s on the rear deck I was gonna get a 4ch amp and a mono block amp but i came across 5ch amps so u get your high's n mids and sub channel all in one amp the kicker zx700.5 looks like a pretty good deal and i'd probably come out cheaper getting that vs buying a 4ch and a mono block amp my question is would 70x4 be enough …

What size wire should i use if i wire my doors? Would like 16 guage be enough for like up to 80rms? I only have a 45 or 55 rms amp atm but just planning ahead.. And any tips on wiring a door? Iv never done it..

I was given an old MTX TP3002 from my girlfriends dad the other day because he didn't think it worked anymore. Well, I replaced all the fuses and terminals. I wired it up and it worked fine. Hooked it to an 8 ohm speaker to test, and it worked. I took it to my car and hooked it to 2 SA-8's bridged at 4 ohms. The subs started popping, then the amp shut off and smoke poured out. The gains and everything were all the way down. Anyone know what could have happened? It worked fine on my test bench in the garage, then fried in my car when subs were wired to it.

Well i just installed all my equipment in my 4runner. I received my speakers today and hooked everthing up...4 15 ssd w/copper coils and bp power option...and im running 2 MA HK802SX amps.......Well the system hits pretty good, but i think it should or can do more....My voltage is dropping down to 10.2 volts at worst. Im loosing power like crazy....Even with multiple grounds and hots distributed everywhere my grounds are getting warm!!!!!<---not good i know.....I have the following installed right now -165 Amp Alternator -Kinetik HC1800 Under Hood -Optima Blue Top in the rear with amps (temp) I know this is not enough juice, but i have the optima sold and i was going t…

My friend just got a Sundown 3,000 for his truck. I brought up the idea of maybe trading my DD M3a for his SAZ3,000. He's doesn't care either way. What would you do and why? Side notes: For now I will have one amp on 2 ZCON 18"s at .5 ohm. Then get a second of either and have each at 1 ohm daily, and .25 for shows and such.

so we got everything put in, and long story short, the subs just make a popping sound about every second...kinda funny Ive never heard it before. we wired up one sub to the mid amp and it beats for only 400 watts. so is my amp shot? power supply....? this would be the second time Ive got shafted on an orion 2500d, and I'm about to give up.

I posted a while back on my company's development of factory replacement radios - just want some follow up feedback from everyone. We made radios for Toyota, GM, Ford, Chrysler and have some more on the way including a Honda CRV and some universal fits. I've gotten some requests from customers and dealers. I'd like to know what other vehicles everyone thinks would be good to have. . . radios with the factory look and aftermarket features. What do you think and what have you heard? Got any questions or comments - please let me know.

I have a power acoustik vu560-4x. Back in high school was being dumb when hooking it up and crossed a wire or two and basically it went up in smoke. Basically determined the problem to be 3 of these mosfets. Just wondering how hard it would be to replace these. Would it be just some simple soldering? I figure the 5 bucks it would cost would be worth the try for a highs amp.

I have 3 of the old rockford 200x2 transana amps 2 of them i bought from a guy that swore they worked fllawlessly. Anyway I hooked them up to test them out, they paly fine until they have to play a low note, and then they clip i guess, until i turn the volume down a little and then they play fine. The other 200x2 I have doesnt do that at all I can play it all day long and it never does that. has anyone ever heard of such a problem?

Hi, I'm sort of new to this, I searched the topic but didn't find what I was looking for so please be patient. I've been away from car audio for 7 or so years, a lot has changed and I would like to learn. I'm in the infancy of planning my stereo, I'm planning on running ~1500-2000watts RMS, the vehicle in question is a 1994 3/4 ton Suburban with a 454, 105 amp (I believe) alternator. I definitely plan to upgrade the battery and my ground and use 0 gauge wiring, what exactly do I look for in a battery and at my power levels would it be wise to run a second battery? Furthermore, how exactly does one wire a second battery? Should I upgrade my alternator as well? Or if it was…

Anyone ever used one? Thoughts? I'm thinking about picking up a couple, for future uses.

Anyone used one for MP3 on an 8053? I am looking for one too for a good price. Depending on the feedback from you guys.

ok I have 1994 gmc serria 2 wheel drive I need to know if I can fit a 2 din dvd player in there. It already ghas a cd player in it I just need to knwo if I can fut a 2 din player in it.

Has anyone done this that could give me some advice? Any explorer within a couple years would be the same.

When i turn on my amp, it makes a very high pitch sound, so what could it be or any suggestions Amp is a rf t1500-1bd, subs are 10 chaos, hu- jvc Ask what ever questions u need Thanks

i think i want the visonik 4000, if i can still find it for like 400 or less... other than that idk.. what amp can i buy that at least gives me 2000 to each sub? or somehwere arround thier., for around 400$ all the nice amps are like 2000 x1.... but i want a 4000x1 or something around thier lol,

Well, my friend installed a Rockford Type RF.4 4 channel amp into his car and after it was installed a popping noise would occur when he turned on his HU or when he turned his volume from 0 to 1. We must have regrounded that amp several times but the popping still occurs. We tried replacing the HU but to no avail, same problem occurs. I told him to try regrounding his HU but his HU was already grounded to a drilled, sanded spot. Right now, he is trying to shorten his ground wire. Now this only happened after he installed this amp. Before, I had let him borrow my trusty ol' Orion Xtreme 5004 and there were no probs with that amp so I'm assuming it has something to do with…

well thing is i had my alternator guy build me a high power one for my truck and for some unknown reason at times, mainly early in the morning when its cold out still my alt will be charging from 14.4 bouncing up and down to 15.5v ive takin the alt to my alt guy and he put it on the bench and said it tested good no problem... well thing is it only does this early in the mornings every now and then, but later on in the day it charges normal 14.4v just fine. i got no warrenty on the alt so anything that he does to it ill have to pay for. so if 15.5 wont hurt any of my equipment ill just leave it alone for now, otherwisee i gotta pay him to put anew regulator in it and just…

just wondering what i need to set my gains at voltage wise with my ac meter for this amp. is it around 80 volts? thanks for any help

Ok, so I have a yellow top group 34 up front right now in my suv. I am upgrading my stereo system and will be running a Sundown Saz 3000d a JL audio 500/5 and a JL e4300. I will be using a mechman 275 amp alt and I need help deciding what to do for the batteries. Can I hook up the optima to a xs power d3100 and expect to see good results? or a d3400 up front to a xs power d3100 in the back. Is it alright to hook up batteries that are of different classes? I can't fit a 31 series up front but it looks like a good battery for the back. Last but not least I have seen good deals on a optima yellow top d31t. Would that be a good option to hook up to the optima I have now? Woul…