Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i was wondering if the audiopipe ap30001d can run at 1 ohm stable??

when someone says there amp is 80% efficient at 2600 watts what exactly does that mean electrical system wise?

I've been looking at the audio control epicenter. I would like to put some Iron Maiden, Judas Priest, Molly hatchet and so on in the cd player and actually have some bass. I know there are a few different bass restoration processors out there and I have a basic understanding of how they work. I've been searching this topic for better then a week now, but the info. I like to know doesn't seem to be easy to find. I see videos where a turn of the knob makes your subs start "doing work". Most of the topics I run across are either useless videos or "my subs are blown up". What I can't find is are they worth it? Yes there may be more output at the turn of a knob, but does it so…

alpine's site doesn't say anything nor does the manual, but do you think the MRP-M850 would operate at anything below 2 ohm? i have a dual 4ohm 10" RL-i and i have decided i want a little more bass, so i'm wanting to get another RL-i. thing is my options are 4ohm or 1ohm if i do so. at 4ohm i'm not going to get more wattage than i'm running now at 2 because i'm only running it at about 500ish. i'd really like to not have to buy another amp though along with another sub. so you think it could handle 1ohm even though it says nothing about 1ohm? ratings RMS Power (at 14.4V THD+N, 20Hz-200Hz) Per channel into 4 ohms: 500W x 1 (0.08% THD) Per channel into 2 ohms: 800W x 1

I was happily enjoying my new (old) amp, when it turned off. I assumed the remote wire came loose again, end of story. The terminals are screws but with no plate so it slides out easily. (Before you ask, no short, it was in line of sight the whole time). I re-connected the remote wire, and nothing. Simply will not turn back on. No blown fuse, no smell, heck, not even warm. I have no idea where to begin looking for the culprit. I'd post pictures of the damage but there is none that is visible... Any ideas on how to fix this situation? I love this amp, and would hate to retire it to paperweight status.

I still have my 15" sundowns and I've recently been offered a pretty good deal on this amp. I was wondering if it's better than my current amp found here.

Just installed my 15" bl running off a bc2k. Stock alt, big 3, and a gold battery up front (don't remember the brand but it was the best I could get from advance) voltage is ok until I'm full tilt. I was looking at a cheaper Xs power battery but there still $150. Any other brands I should b looking into? Looking for a cheaper price but I don't want a shitty battery

I'm thinking about purchasing an Fi bl 15 or 12, and was wondering of anybody knows anything about the hifonics Brutus 1700, is it a good amp?

Sears has a nice battery sale going on right now. 25% off til August 23 (while supplies last).

I'm considering the option of adding a small battery to the back to help with voltage. From searching around I seem to find one style of wiring it up. I was under the impression that I would need to a whole new run of wire from the front battery to the back. Which would result in 2 runs of power wire going front to back. This is something I don't want to do. On the other hand, like the picture below, it seems I can wire it as such: A single run of power wire from the front battery to the positive terminal of the battery in the trunk. From that positive terminal another run of wire goes to the amp. Then the rear battery and the amp are both grounded in separate locations.…

I was dinkin with my stereo today. i usually run my kenwood 900/1 to my 2 12 inch kicker L5s. they hit pretty dang good. i got curious and daisy linked my alpine 350/1 ( I know its probably a bad idea to link mis matched amps like that but i was bored ) and hooked up my 2 10 inch rockford fosgates. it was VERY loud. i had it all the way up and looked at my alt gauge and it had dropped from over 14 to nearly 9 volts. just for future reference since i plan on buying a matching kenwood amp to what i have and running both, should i use a capacitor or just get a second battery? my alternator is pretty new and i have a brand spankin new 800 cca battery. my amp is wired with #2 …

Would it be easyer running a 2 way active front stage by getting an active capable head unit or crossover/ processer? My amps will probley not have crossovers on them

i will be running 2 sa-12 d4s need help on what amp i should get both seem realy good !! i can get a refurb sundown for 320 shipped or i can get a crescendo bc2000 new for 339 i like the fact that the cresendo is new and i love the color scheme but on the other hand i think the sundown will put out a little more please help !!! i no i have been a pain lol keep changing my mind over and over and have been talking about doing a system for a while but i have one sundown already the other will be here thursday and like i said im ordering my amp tomorrow just want to make sure theres not something im missing i think i would be happy either way its going to be an upgrade…

Most of this is not from first hand experince so please correct me where I am wrong. I'm just trying to save people the time they use asking this question. Memphis mc-1000d aka 16st-1000d - So the amp I would most recomend in this price would be this. VERY efficent amp at about 85-90%. Costs about $360 shipped on ebay. Puts out 1100 real rms watts at 1ohm at 13.X volts. VERY small also. I often recomend this to people with Brahma's and subs like it. A large step above JBL and Hifonics. mc is black pearl in color, st is silver/chrome. This amp gets my vote. Great SQ with low distortion also. JBL BP1200.1 - This is probably the most used amp in this range. I'm not a HUGE fa…

Found out today that Pep Boys has 25% off online orders plus Optima has a $20 mail in rebate right now. That puts these in the $140 price range. I already have a Diehard Platinum Group 31M for the rear. Just wondering which of these 2 are best for my usage. There are mixed reviews on Google search regarding this in an audio application. I really don't plan on playing a lot with the car off, which makes it seem the Red Top would be best. Am I correct?

i added a yellow top in the rear today and did the big three. i wired the second batt in parallel + to + and - to - then ran my power to the amp off the rear positive. after i hooked everything up i noticed the the red batt light on the dash below the check engine like was glowing red and the emergency brake light stays on even when its off and these didn't do it before i installed everything... and on top of that my power steering when out (i know it doesnt have anything to do with the batts but just wanted to add that too...lol) any suggestions why the light would still be on?? Oh and my check engine light is on too but that was already on before i installed everyt…

Just finished some power testing on the Arc Audio amps that I did a review of, there posting on my site n2caraudio.com. If anyone is interested.

Base your choice on experience and sheer quality of the product. Thanks for any opinions as well.

I recently installed a new amp. I had a Sundown saz 1500 on my btl n2 12", and now I run a Sundown saz 3000. The box is 2.1 ft3 net, slot ported to 32 Hz. I am a little ...worried ! I thought the change would be HUGE, but no, it is not ! I think it's louder, but I've never mesured it. Do you think I expected too much from the new amp ? My electrical seems to handle that power fine, I did not expect that !!! Only 2 batteries on a (solid) stock alt. I have a diesel engine.

How's it going guys, I'm looking into a little upgrade on my door speakers and I really need some help. Currently, I run Orion XTRs off of head unit power (herp derp). Obviously they don't get loud as they are not amplified, but I have a feeling that if amplified, they will sound like complete shit when cranked. I'd like to run something a bit more capable, but I just don't quite understand how it all works. Here's what I'm considering going with: 4 Selenium 6W4Ps 4 Crescendo SuperTweets First question: Will this be enough speakers to cover all frequencies produced in music? I've got my BTL covering the lower end, but am I missing a section of frequencies that would be lo…

Ok I was told the Sundown 4500D is a bad amp because the 86% eff @ 4ohms at 100Hz, so I was told to look into the HellFire 2500.1, the MTX TA92001, and the T1500-1bd. I am going to be getting 2 12" BTLs, fully loaded daily drivers. Anyone have any words of wisdom?

Which is the best solder type?

i havnt bought the subs so it can be either for a dual 1 or dual 2? they rms 2000 each so something around that was looking to spend about $1000 for amp would be better if its like $750 but dont think thats possible for a good new amp. thank you in advance

has anyone used these? nothing pulls up in the search.

Well I was planning on getting the Sundown 2500 until it went to 815 dollars, there is no way I have the money for that, I can dish out maybe 600 tops...was looking at the HiFonics Brutus 2400, but I dont know if they are good or not, everywhere I have looked they have positive feedback...any suggestions??