Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I am soon to be grabbing a new sub amp and was offered a new taramps 5k for a pretty good price. I have just read several times on the questionable durability/reliability of the taramps name. Is it worth it to spend near to twice the price for the same power? I am seriously torn here... For what it's worth, 2 xcons or ethos will be on the receiving end of whatever amp I choose. Most likely xcon as I already have one.

does anyone know about them. how well is there power rating

it seems these companys offer exactly what im looking for power wise. im using 14 prv mids 8ohms, my vehicle is at 15.4v and hoping these amps wouldnt go into protect cause too high of voltage. has anyone used these for mids/highs?

I have a Alpine CDA-9887 with the imprint unit and I was wanting to know if somehing was possible. I do not run any speakers off the deck and I have the power IC disabled. I have two amps installed right now and hooked up with the RCA's. What I want to know is can I turn the Power IC on and use the speaker wire outputs off the Alpine deck as high level inputs for a third amp and will the Imprint work using both low level RCA's and High level Speaker wire outputs.

a friend sold his rf power 800.2 to another friend. this is the same 800.2 that we used to run a pair of 15" id spl's at 4 ohm stereo (the subs were dual 2) and it beat the hell outa them... now the new owner says the amp is smoked..literally...yet when i pulled the case, there was no smoke/fire damage..hell, not even a hint of overheating really. the new owner is running 2 subs, one a he2 that is dual 4, one a boston that is a single 4. he runs everything parallel and bridged...this totals a 1.3 ohm load, correct? i say that the amp is just going into protect...i mean it is just 4 ohm stable bridged, correct? he says i'm full of shit and that the amp is messed up. we hav…

Its time for me to install all my gear, ive installed few HU's here and there but never a full system consisting of multiple amps, subs, rear battery, and components. I was told to run a line of 1/0 from the front to the rear + batt terminal, and ground to the chassis of my car. Fuse few inches from front + batt. terminal. For the rear battery, do I fuse inches before the rear battery? How big of ANL fuses should I use, I will have 170 amp fuses in total from my amps, so maybe 200 ANL fuses will be good? Then from the rear battery, ill be running some 1/0 gauge to a dsitro block and will give me 2, 4 gauge outputs that I will connect to my amps, (AQ 1200d, and Kenwood KA…

I have a Fi BL 15 and im trying to figure out whats better the Terminator 4000d or the saz 1500d? the terminator is cheaper, is the quality good? which one is easier on the electrical system? Cleaner sound? thanks

Not sure if this is the right place to post this, so move it if needed. Does anyone know if the Termlab with RTA Option (which includes the Oscilloscope function) can use a probe or does it only use the Microphone for the RTA? In other words, can it be used to test the preamp outputs and the amplifier outputs for clipping instead of using a dedicated O-Scope. By the time I price out an O-Scope and RTA I'm pretty much at the price of a Termlab. Thanks, Bob.

Any installers have issues with Ford Taurus signal. With my Taurus, the tuner is actually in the trunk and where you change stations is just a control surface I had good reception until I installed a aftermarket head unit and my dash kit came with a 20 foot anntenna extension to reach the trunk and two head units and HD radio later the radio is basically unusable. Is there anyway to solve this. please help

Hi guys i hope u can answer a question for me. Is there any way to test an amps rms rating other than a bench?? Possibly having it installed in my truck?? Thanks in advanced

I just recieved a used nine.1 Is there anyway to test it here at home to see if it works? Thanks

Is there a way that i can test voltage drop with a digital multimeter

Can someone tell me a little about the total harmonic distortion value on amps as far as what the max acceptable level should be & what I should look for on one? I have seen most mid range amps at around 0.02 to 0.05. Is this something I need to concern myself with or is the difference going to so little I won't even notice? Thanks

I'd like some opinions on where I should have my voltage metered from. Currently it's hooked up to the battery so I know how much voltage is at my battery, but should I have it wired straight to the alternator or the amp? I'm stuck between battery and amp. I'd like to know voltage to my amp but I'd also like to know voltage to my battery. I guess I can buy another one. But what would you guys do? How do you have your volt meters set up? And do you guys have your power wire for your volt meter fused?

We've created a blog to clarify a lot of questions in this market and here is just one of the many we're going to have. Enjoy: http://blog.dcpowerinc.com/2010/09/05/the-benefits-of-high-voltage/

I am doin some searchin and plan on posting a lot of amps on here with peoples feedback to them and hee is the first to start- Bazooka MGA11500H This amp has been specifically optimized to produce it's most power @2ohms but still be 1ohm stable! What is so good about this is when your impedance curve rises over areas that you wish were louder, this amp will pretty much make that happen. For example - wire a sub to 1 ohm, put it on a 1ohm amp, it will not hit the 1 ohm mark on the amp but on average may hover around 2 ohms. This isn't exact science obviously but you get the picture. So, the specs for this amp- 810w @4ohms 1,550w @2ohms 1,222w @1ohm Comes with advanced p…

This? Alpine IDA-X200 - http://www.techronics.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=8449 Alpine CDE-9874 - http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/cde-9874.aspx Pioneer DEH-P3000IB - http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/deh-p3000ib.aspx

nevermind..hehe what if i can't reach the engine block ground? will that be alright? wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Hey guys, I recently got my 1/0 gauge wire in the mail the other day, I am prepping it up with the clamps and getting the right sizes, and I look on the website and I see that I need a fused wire. I looked at the big 3 post and it says I should get the factory sized fuse. Can I get some pictures or some detailed information about the setup involved into this? I looked into the Big 3 post and nothing is explained into detail.....Only what it is. Any information would greatly help. Thanks, -Curt

I did the big 3 last weekend to my 2000 dodge dakota and was woundering about a wiring configuration. I currently have two 0 gaguge runs from the frame to the engine block and two 0 gauge runs from the battery neg. to the frame using the same post on the frame used in the frame to engine block runs. I have one run of 0 gauge from the alt. to the battery positive and a run of 4 gauge from the alt. to the fuse box which was place there by the guy installing the alt. Two Questions: 1) Should I run a 0 gauge from the engine to the battery negative, or should my currently setup be ok? 2) Should I remove the 4 gauge from the fuse box and run it directly to the pos. battery pos…

i decided that i might as well do the big three in my town car, but i have a few questions about it. first, from the batt pos to the alt, im not sure how to connect the 1/0 to the alt. heres a pic of my alt how should i connect it to ther? should i just try and remove that red thing? also, i dont know were the engine block to chassis connection is. could someone please tell me how to find it? heres what the bay looks like another thing... can i just run the pos batt. to alt just straight across to the right and zip tie it to like the radiator hose? thanks for the help!

I currently have the Big Three (actually the Big Two) in 4 gauge. I was wondering if it was worth the money and time to buy some 1/0 and redo it. I have an AQ1200d, stock battery, stock 145amp alternator Any input in welcomed.

Hey guys currently in the process of starting the big three. I've got my battery negative to chassis** done and my alternator positive to battery positive done. I'm still confused on the grounding. 1) Should I go from engine to battery negative and from frame to battery negative? 2) Should I go from engine to frame and then from that same frame spot to the battery negative? 3) Should I go from engine to the same chassis ground that is mentioned above**? And not ground the frame in the upgrade process? Any other suggestions??

I figured this should be stickied because this will REALLY help all of us get our cabling cheaper. I'll start from the largest to the smallest- This information is valid as of 4-14-2012. 4/0 - http://www.wireandsu...0-fslash-01.htm $2.98/ft - Pure COPPER 397A @15ft @5% Voltage drop 390A @3ft @1% Voltage drop 3/0 - Too $$$ for other options available 2/0 - http://www.wireandsu...0-fslash-01.htm $2.55/ft - Pure COPPER 250A @15ft @5% Voltage drop 249A @3ft @1% Voltage drop 1/0 - http://www.wireandsu...0-fslash-01.htm $2.10/ft - Pure COPPER 198A @15ft @5% Voltage drop 198A @3ft @1% Voltage drop 1 AWG - http://www.wireandsu..._p/sgx-1g01.htm $1.65/ft - Pure COPPER 157A @15ft @…