Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I am currently looking into the three.1 from audiocontrol http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/product....roduct_Id=14149 I was hoping someone with more in-depth tech knowledge could educate me on if this product is worth my while... I have Alpine 9857 1 SS Rubicon 502 100 watts x 2 running my front comps (A/D/S 6-1/2" 346cs) 2 Us Amps MD.1D for my subs.... I am looking to get another amp to toss my A/D/S passive crossovers and run active... If the three.1 from AC isn't gonna fit the bill what would you all recommend I'm not going for competition SQ or anything just what a nice sounding daily beater that sounds pretty darn good to the ear....

Well I have built a box for my btl that is 4.8 cubes tuned to 33 hz and the btl should be here any day now....i have a T10001bd but its sold because i know i need more than that for the btl....so i have about 400$ to spend....what is the best amp or amps for that price to push THE btl the best....or if there is one amp that in the long run i can get 2 one for each 2ohm coil....you know get one now and one later....what is yalls op.....thanks Edit....its fully loaded forgot to add that...p-cham,xmax,trip mag shoulda got the dual 1 but oh well lol

I called a few friends but noone knew, so as soon as I got home, next step was to ask here. I sort of remember some people mentioning some kind of ground loop noise in the system, or had grounding issues with this head unit. Is this true or am I thinking of another Pioneer deck? I ask because I need to get a new deck for the civic to compete and Amanda's old Sony is not going to cut it. And before anyone asks, yes I want eclipse, but I just don't want to lay out that much for a deck right now. Thanks

Figured it out. Thanks.

I have a 2007 honda accord and i am planning on doing my first amp installation, and i'm wondering if any of these outlets will be able to get through the firewall. if so how would i get it through?? do i just take the plug off, or do i cut through it?

Well I really like my current head unit which is a Pioneer 880PRS but I kinda would like to add navigation and DVD capabilities. So I started to think on how I could do it suggestions would be appreciated. I would like to keep the 880 as the primary unit and the nav as the secondary. My current idea is to add a Avic n3 and hook up the audio through an auxiliary adapter something like this http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/p...0_35681,00.html Help is appreciated.

I am wanting to put an aftermarket DVD player in my 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 ext cab. I have factory onstar and xm and want to keep both. I know that I have to get an adapter like this http://www.logjamelectronics.com/pacos2.html in order for it to work. What can I get to in order to retain the factory XM radio? I also have settering wheel controls. I know for the steering wheel controls I have to get a PAC unit in order for them to work.

I am getting some money built up to get some SSD's and I want to push them just right. Since I have no experience with Fi Car Audio, I was wondering what would be the best choice of an amp for these subs. Money is almost not an issue with me. But not a rediculously priced amp. Thanks in Advance ~MadroX

im lookin for an HO alt for my truck. i have been to iraggi, mean-green, etc etc. send emails to the ones that didnt have ratings on them (ie, mean green. cost but no amperage rating) i have been researching the companies for the past 3 or so days. and i can tell you, IM FREAKIN SCARED! ive heard horror stories from all the companies. ngsm had a mean green with a misaligned bearing, tons of iraggi alt failures and a few doa, EVEN MORE DOAS from excessive. and i cant afford an ohio gen (even though i heard 2 chit stores about them as well). so here is my question is it really worth to get an HO alternator? i am running a 20.1 at 1 ohm right now (and from the test i saw on …

I am gonna be installing an AVIC-N2 in my truck (the single din flip out). Anyways, how do I go about making it so I can have video without all the B.S. J

What is required for an active speaker system? What features should you look for in a headunit and amplifier?

I'm currently in the process of redoing my sound stage. I'm going to replace my Alpine, the front Kickers with either Focal or Rainbow components (rear fill will stay Kicker 6x9s), and most likely 2 Mach 5 15's on a Sundown SAE-1000D. I figured an in-dash T.V. head unit would help pull the chicks , not to mention I could put my XBox in my car http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?sk...d=1168044601606 It seems like a good in-dash video head unit, and the store near me has it for $400, hence why I'm thinking of getting it. Does anybody have any experience with these?

I am getting two 600w rms 4ohm subs and I am getting a mono amp. I was wondering If I wired both subs together into the amp, How would the power be split to goto each sub. Also Would it drop the impedance to 2ohms. So if it did that would I have to get DVC subs? So, for two 600w rms subs single or dual voice coil subs, what would be a good mono amplifier to use to push them to the full 600 watts. Thanks ~Thomas

Hi all Ok this is the problem On the big three the alternator power.... It says to upgrade that... now this is the issue i discovered tracking down my voltage drop... My alternator wire goes from the alt to a fuse box (factory) then from the fuse box to the front battery... now my rear battery taps off the front battery.... all 0/1 guage wire... I changed the wire from the alt to the fuse box to 0/1 So i need to change the fuse box to the bat now to 0/1 OR is just going straight from the alt to the rear battery an option (fused with 200 amps of course)

Right now my setup is(see sig) and I have BAD voltage problems. I believe my problem is that I have a 2ga wire from the front battery to the back(came with the car,to lazy to change it) where I branched 3 runs of 4ga wire off it to my 3 amps. Now I was wondering if I ran 1 or 2 runs of 1/0ga from the front to the back would that cure my problem?

Im looking for a good 4-way crossover for an active system. I dont want anything cheap but i still want it to be reasonable priced. Thanks Corey

I am going to use a memphis 16 PRD 1000.1 amp to power a Fi Q12, I really want this sytem to sound nice so how would this amp work? If there are any better for the same price range please let me know. thanks C memphis Prd 1000.1

I see alot of post where guys are running there amps at .7 ohms, how is this possible. I have run amps at 1 ohm or even .5, but how do you get .7??

Focal FP 1.800 what do you think about it? have any of you used it? and what do you think of Focal amps?

I currently have a Eclipse cd8445 and I do love it. The problem is that when I had previous setup in the track selection button would "oscillate" during long periods of bass causing it to skip or change tracks at times. I figure that this setup will be significantly louder than the last one so I'm looking around for something different. I'd like something that has mainly the same features as my 8445. But also has a very broad subwoofer control range (ex. My 8445 went from -6 to 6. I'm looking for something slightly larger). I did kinda like the fact that the 8445 has an 8v preouts. But that really doesn't mean too much. Any comments or suggestions will be appreciated.

what are some good amps that will put out 1600RMS and are for $400 and under.

I thought I would post this here since replies elsewhere were slim. I've seen a couple of US Acoustic amps around at a reasonable price and was wondering what people thought about these amps. I know Zed made the first batch of the USX line and them US Acoustics took the plans and had them made in Korea (Pretty chitty if you ask me). I've google this line and people seenm to be happy with them (quality and build), but I thought I would ask around here since it seems that people have a better perspective on the car audio world on this forum. Tell me what you think.

im in the market for a new amp and im doing some research on different brands. and i want to know what you guys think and also know which brands are more efficient and have cleaner bass?? also what was the formula to determine amp efficiency??

So I think I have decided on getting a Q for the new system - either a sealed 15 or a ported 12. I am looking for something to power it now. Really what I wanted to do was a Sundown SAZ-1500D for the sub and a 100.2 for the front stage. However, now were talking around 220 amps to run off my 130 amp alternator. This is just a daily driver so if I can get away with it, I don't really want to get an HO alt. So I am open to suggestions on amps to get? You think I could get away with those two amps without an HO alt? Or should I be realistic and tone it down a bit?

need like 2500w rms for the mt like 240ish (i guess?) @ 3 ohms for the pro60s. im most likely not gonna do rear fill, if i do, itll be off the HU. what you guys think? im tryin to get the amps ordered, so then i can start the box/amprack.